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Question

Chuck Husick:,

I have an Islander Sailboat with a Volvo MD6 diesel engine the temp gauge when under power rises from green to red then recycles back to green etc, etc. The thermostat and the sending unit were replaced and the engine is cool to the touch. Can you recommend a fix or logical trouble shooting sequence?

Mike

Answer

Dear Mr. Dickey,

Based on your report that both the thermostat and the temperature sensor have been replaced and that the engine appears to be at normal temperature I would begin troubleshooting the system by checking the wiring connections at the temperature sensor on the engine and at the gage connections. Very little current flows through this circuit, making it possible for a slightly loose or corroded connection to create an indication problem, I would also check the common ground wire from the gage panel to the engine ground. You might try connecting a voltmeter in parallel with the temperature gage and noting its readings as the engine warms up, comparing changes with the action of the panel mounted gage. If, after checking the wiring connections you see the same type of indication change on the voltmeter connected in parallel with the gage I would replace the temperature sensor on the engine, even new units can be defective. There is one other possibility you may wish to check first. Although I am not familiar with your particular engine it is conceivable that the housing where the temperature sensor is located may have trapped some air, causing the sensor to sense an unusually high temperature until the thermostat opens and allows coolant to reach the tip of the sensor. You might check for this possibility by checking for the presence of coolant when you loosen the sensor on cold engine.

Chuck Husick:

Question

Chuck Husick:,

My tilt and trim will not lower motor until the engine/RPMs are high...any suggestions? It's a 305 HP I/O Merc. on a Chaparral 245 SSI.

Michael

Answer

Dear Mr. Kern

The engine tilt system on your boat is comprised of an electric motor driven hydraulic pump, control valves, hydraulic lines and hydraulic cylinders. The fact that it will operate only when the engine is run at a high speed leads me to believe that the problem is in the electrical system, too low a voltage to run the pump motor properly except when the engine's alternator is producing close to full output voltage. I suggest you use a DC voltmeter to check the voltage at the hydraulic pump motor, both with the engine off and when it is running at the speed you have found is necessary to make the system operate. If the voltage is low with the engine off and above 12.6 volts when the engine is running you will want to look for high resistance connections in the electrical system, a bad battery or some other cause for the inability of the system to operate properly with a DC voltage of 12.0 volts.

Chuck Husick:

Question

Chuck Husick:,

I wish to install a Solar Panel to my 2000 Crownline 268CR Batteries but want to make it removable. I want to have a system that I can plug in and out that is weather proof and that looks good on the boat not a hanging cable overboard. Any suggestions?

Carlos

Answer

Dear Mr. Maldonado

I believe your need for an electrical connector for the solar panel will be met with the Marinco ConnectPro Trolling motor plug and socket. This part is listed in the West Marine Catalog on page 280 and carries the model number 1422591, marinco # 112VCP. You should not need the adapter for #6 wire since the basic plug and socket will accommodate the wire gage you will need for the solar panel. You may want to install the socket on a vertical surface or even better on the underside of an exterior panel to preclude the entry of water when the solar panel is not in use (although the socket is equipped with a sealing cap).

Chuck Husick:

Question

Chuck Husick:,

I enjoyed your article about the Lowrance BR-24 radar. Since it's basically different from conventional radars, I'm wondering how well it performs as a weather radar. I would need it to avoid squalls and storms, as well as other applications. I'm a little nervous about buying any product during it's introductory year.

Answer

,Dear Mr. Anderson

The BR-24 should work well in displaying the radar energy reflected from raindrops out to its maximum, 24 nm range. However its relatively low power may make it somewhat less sensitive to low rainfall rates than a conventional and more powerful magnetron radar when operating at maximum range. However, depending on where you cruise there may be alternative means for detecting and plotting the movement of significant rain storms by using a device such as an Apple iPhone to access the NWS radar system via either a Wi-Fi or cell phone link. The clear superiority of the BR 24 is clearly seen when using it to monitor nearby traffic and aids to navigation in conditions of restricted visibility. I have no reports of problems with early production versions of the BR-24 and believe the manufacturer will stand solidly behind the product.

Chuck Husick:

Question

Chuck Husick:,

I have just purchased a used boat with a Bottomline Sidefinder Tournament 3310 and a Bottomline Sidefinder Tournament Champion HR and I could use the owners manuals. How or where can I get them? I can't find a Bottomline web site.

Paul

Answer

Dear Mr. Wishnok

Based on my search of the internet it appears that the Bottomline products are no longer in production and that manuals may not be available. I have located a telephone reference that may be of some use; Computrol Marine Electronics Division, 208-846-9000. A website was listed; www.bottomlinefishfinders.com, however it appears to be inactive. I also found a reference to Captain Gary's Fishing Specialities, 800-325-7181. They state that they are the only source for Bottomline fishfinder parts and might have access to the manuals you seek. I hope some of this information will be of help to you.

Chuck Husick:

Question

Chuck Husick:,

Regarding Batteries. (I have followed all your battery Q and A's) I have a Universal M-18 on my Catalina 27. I just put in two new batteries yesterday. Both Group 24, one starter battery and one deep cycle to use as my house battery. Both same chemistry! The batteries are independent of one another, meaning have their own seperate positive cables. The only way they are connected is by one negative cable.
I have a switch....2, both, 1 and off.
I want to know if I switch my selector to Both, if in fact both batteries will be charged under power. Your previous answers tend to say so. However, I have been reading in Chapman's and other books that most alternators/regulators will stop once the STARTER battery is charged, not recognizing the HOUSE battery. In addition, I have read that there is the potential to overcharge while underway. Is this true?

I purchased the batteries after reading several of your previous answers, thinking I was doing it right. Am I? I start the engine on 1 ( starter battery ), then switch to both, thinking both the Starter battery and the Deep Cycle will be charging. When I am not running the engine, I switch to 2, running everything off the house battery. And when starting again.....start the process all over.

****Also, while at anchor, I may run the engine at idle for an hour a day to charge the batteries back up, at this time should I only have it switched on 2 or should I make it a rule to always have on BOTH when charging? I want to put my mind at ease in regards to how things are charging and the possability of overcharging. My initial instinct is to think my m18 could not overcharge anything.

Tom

Answer

Dear Mr. Amen

The starting current demand of the engine your boat is quite modest, therefore you could have used two, deep cycle batteries rather than a starting battery and a deep cycle battery. Since the batteries are new you may wish to inquire about swapping the starting battery for a deep cycle battery. With the battery selector switch in the both position the two batteries will be receiving an appropriate charge whenever the engine driven alternator or an externally powered battery charger is operating. There will be no risk of overcharging the batteries so long as the voltage regulator in the alternator is operating properly. The operating procedure I suggest is to start the engine using one battery at a time, alternating between batteries to assure that each in turn is being used to provide the starting current to the engine's starter motor. Once the engine is running switch to BOTH to recharge both batteries. When at anchor use the deep cycle battery to provide the house power, unless you replace the starting battery with a deep cycle unit, in which case alternate between the two batteries, switching from one to the other when the voltage from the battery being used decreases to 12.1 volts (12.2 volts when it is in the off position). Use the both setting when connected to a battery charger unless the charger provides separate output connections for each battery in which case you may want to leave the battery selector switch in the off position. When leaving the boat unattended you may wish to switch both batteries to OFF, provided the automatic bilge pump is permanently wired to one of the batteries (though a fuse or circuit breaker). When using your engine to charge batteries you should have the selector switch set to BOTH. You may have to run the engine at about 1800 rpm to obtain a significant flow of charging current. If engine powered charging process dose not provide sufficient voltage to charge the batteries in a reasonable time you may wish to consider installing an external voltage regulator that will do a better job of managing the alternator than the internal unit.

Chuck Husick:

Question

Chuck Husick:,

I HAVE A 2005 252 WELLCRAFT OUTBOARD WITHOUT A SHORE POWER FITTING. CAN I BRING AN EXTENSION CORD ON BOARD FROM THE DOCK TO SERVICE MY BOAT WITHOUT AN ELECTRICAL FITTING ON THE BOAT? IF SO, WHAT DO I NEED?

Bob

Answer

Dear Mr. Sutton

You can provide a temporary source of 120 volt AC power on your boat with the use of a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) equipped extension cable, plugged into a properly connected ground equipped dockside AC power outlet. You can find the GFCI equipped cable at an electrical supply store, they are regularly used by contractors. Do NOT use a standard extension cable, it will not provide the necessary personnel protection.

Chuck Husick:

Question

Chuck Husick:,

I HAVE A DUAL BATTERY SYSTEM ON MY OUTBOARD BOAT WITH AN "A" AND "B" AND A DUAL SWITCH.
I WAS TOLD BY A FREIND THAT WHILE THE BOAT IS RUNNING, I SHOULD NOT SWITCH BETWEEN THE "A", THROUGH TO THE DUAL SWITCH TO THE "B" SWITCH. WHAT IS YOUR OPINION?

Bob

Answer

Dear Mr. Sutton

Assuming your boat is equipped with a standard maine battery switch there is no risk in switching from Battery A to BOTH to Battery B when the engine is running; the switch is a make-before-break design and wlll create a contact with the "second" battery before disconnecting from the first. HOWEVER, do not switch to OFF when the engine is running.

Chuck Husick:

Question

Chuck Husick:,

Is it permissable (legal) to use a hand-held VHF as an intercom on board a vessel? If so, what channels may be used?

Robert

Answer

Dear Mr. Wood

A marine band vhf radio may be used to communicate with another marine VHF radio whenever both radios are on a boat or boats and with a radio on shore that is a licensed shore station such as a marina or yacht club. It is always necessary to use minimum power for all communications, usually one watt will more than suffice. You may use any working channel designated for non commercial use. At this time it is illegal to use a marine VHF radio to communicate when on shore, for example to call the boat, however BoatUS has asked the FCC to alter this rule to allow such use in the future.

Chuck Husick:

Question

Chuck Husick:,

Just Purchased a new Prolone 29 express. I need a fishfinder and a gps. I like the larger sreen.
Is it better to buy one that does both gps and fishfinder or two seperate units. What are the best??
As for the Transducer?? thru-hull, transom mount, or glue-down on the inside. I have a buget around two grand
+ or - Thanks for any help.
Steve Campbell

Steve

Answer

Dear Mr.Campbell

In my opinion you will be best served by purchasing a unit that combines the GPS and the fishfinder in a single unit and by fitting either a through hull or transom mount transducer (the latter may be a bit less costly than a properly installed through-hull unit. There are many quality units available on today's market. You may way to prepare a product comparison chart showing screen size, and a list of the features that areof primary importance to you verses price. Unless you plan to fish in very deep water don't place too much emphasis on sonar power. If at all possible try to see various units in operation in sunlight. A quick check of a major marine catalog or the internet will provide a list of the best known manufacturers. Concentrate your decision points on the elements that are of primary concern to you, not on the bells and whistles.

Chuck Husick:

Question

Chuck Husick:,

I have a 1988 Bayliner Trophy 25' W/ 305 v-8 and OMC Cobra outdrive.
I was replacing the carb., and shorted the wrench on a sylanoid on top of the engine. I believe it went to the trim motor. Now my trim motor does not come on (up or down). I am looking for the location of the trim motor fuse. Thank you for any help

Kenneth

Answer

Dear Mr. Reel

Unfortunately I do not have any information about the location of the fuse for the trim system drive on your outdrive. I suggest you begin troubleshooting the system by checking the fuses connected to the main power distribution system. The trim system is operated by a hydraulic pump that is powered by a DC motor. You may want to check the operation of the motor by making a temporary connection between the positive terminal of the battery and the motor to determine if the motor will run. If you are not familiar with troubleshooting 12 volt DC circuits you may want to enlist the aid of an electrician who is familiar with boat or automobile electrical systems. If you wish to proceed on your own begin by obtaining a wiring diagram for the drive, a number are listed on the web.

Chuck Husick:

Question

Chuck Husick:,

I enterered a marina with the new GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor) circuit breakers on the shore power outlet. I have 120/240 volt, 50 amp service. The breaker trips on the shore immediately. I disconnect the cord from the boat and the breaker doesn't trip, so it is not the cord. If I have all the AC breakers in the boat turned off except the main shore breaker, the shore power GFCI trips on the dock. I temporarily disconnected my green ground wire to the boat and left the others connected and I still get a tripped GFCI.

The electric panel and wiring is only 2 years old. Where can I look on my boat to solve this problem? I have no problems with conventional shore power breakers.

Mark on s/v Silhouette, a Gulfstar 50 sailboat

Mark

Answer

Dear Mr. Lignoul

I suspect the problem you have encountered may be the result of the use of a standard GFCI - (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) that is designed to protect a single outlet or at most a few closely located outlets in a dry location. These devices are designed to trip, to open the circuit if they detect a fault current between approximately 4 and perhaps 6 milliamperes (0.004-0.006 A) and will open the circuit in 0.025 seconds (25 ms) or less. Leakage currents of this magnitude are almost inevitable in the shore power wiring system of a boat. An alternate device, the ELCI, Electrical Load Circuit Interrupter or residual current circuit breaker (RCCB) is used when protecting circuits such as your boat's shore power wiring system. The ELCI or RCCB is usually set to open the protected circuit when a leakage current of 30 ma ) is detected. Some RCCB units combine ground fault current leakage protection with total current (circuit breaker) protection in one device. I suggest you inquire about the device that is installed at your marina to determine if the appropriate unit has been used. If the device on the dock is the proper type it is possible that an electrical leakage path may exist in the wiring between the shore power inlet and the main circuit breaker on the boat. Unless you are familiar with working on line voltage AC systems it will be advisable for you to engage the services of an electrician familiar with boat wiring systems. I will appreciate your informing me of the result of your investigation. The use of GFCI devices in inappropriate locations appears to be an increasing problem.

Chuck Husick:

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