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Archived Questions
Cooling Systems
WHAT CAN CAUSE A BUILD UP OF LOOKS LIKE CALCIUM IN THE HOSE OUT OF THE SEA WATER PUMP, IT MADE THE IMPELLOR FAIL TWICE BEFORE I DISCOVERED THE BLOCKAGE ABOUT AN INCH LONG AND ONLY A TINY HOLE LETTING SOME FLOW THRU, THE EXHAUST WATER SEEMED NORMAL. IT HAPPENED ONCE BEFORE ABOUT 4 YEARS AGO.
I have a 1999 Evinrude FICHT 115 HP motor on my 1999 18' Hydra Sport Sea Horse. I mostly boat in the Atlantic Ocean or in brackish water just inland, how long should I run fresh water through the motor to insure all the salt water is out of it? Also, do you have any helpful tips for maintenance on an older outboard motor?
In the March/April '10 issue of BoatUS Magazine you stated that it is unwise to use a garden hose to flush out an engine. I have always had a Mercruiser fresh water cooled engine and have never had a problem with the ear muff flushers. I have owned Mercruisers since the late 60's. My newest one is a Bluewater with a 470 in it. Where would I find a barrel big enough to flush this. Is this really necessary? Every time I go out on Puget Sound I always wash the boat and flush out the heat exchanger. I am also a retired NASA engineer and believe in taking care of my equipment. Help me on this one. I enjoy reading your tips and being a member. Thanks, Bernie Lucas, Kent, Wa.
Hello, and it is an honor to write you, My 1978 chris craft crusader will wait to warm up and when into open water and r.p.m.'s reach 1500 it will stall and make me limp back to dock untill she cools off and then starts and runs. This started happening after the impeller shattered and was replaced; But I see no connection. Since then I replaced the alternator to no avail, and noticed an electronic ignition has been installed, I assert. The engine is a 305 k (model L) where the block ends just before the trany is the D 27 77 letter number combo. and on the heat exchangers is model 305k15 and engine # 614008 and on the manifold is the number 346250 and 12 is under the first six numbers. I collected this info. because I need to find out what year this engine is so I can proceed. Right now I will get a new roter and dist. cap and see if that does any good and maybe I will try to replace the coil too, and then try the open water cruise again. If this does not work I will concider going back to distributor points or getting new electronic ignition components. What do you think? Thanks very much.
I have a 2000 SeaRay 260 Sundancer with a Merc. 5.7 I/O Bravo-3. It does not have a closed cooling system. The boat has been used almost exclusively in Lake Michigan and now I'm planning to move to Florida. Everyone has a different opinion as to what I'd need to do to convert to salt water usage and an opinion on keeping the boat stored in or out of the water. I'd appreciate if you would please clarify and provide my best option. Tommy Schoenfeld
We bought a 1985 34 Mainship 3 that has a 200 hp Perkins turbo diesel. Over the last year we have had a problem loosing coolant. We isolated the water heater with stop cocks, replaced a corroded heat exchanger tube but have not slowed down our coolant loss of a quart per 7-8 hrs running time on the engine. We have placed absorbent cloths under the engine and have inspected all of our external lines and find now evidence of a leak. Do you have any thoughts where we may be loosing the coolant or what is the next step in our search?
I have a 2003 Chaparral 320 with twin Mercury 350 MAG MPI and Bravo 2 stern drives, used on Lake Michigan and now going to San Diego. What is required, if anything, to have the engines and drives prepared for saltwater operation. Some have said I need a closed cooling system, others say no. Hope you can help guide me.
 

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