Question
| Don Casey:, |  |
I have a 2006 glastron 27 ft. dry weight is 6200lbs. I/o We have always kept it at a marina in nj. We would like to bring to florida and leave it in the water. What type and size trailer would we need and what type of brakes would we need. electric or disc. We plan on using our 2013 f-150 with the ecoboost engine and 355 rear capable of pulling 9700 lbs.
Thank you
Walter Rohrig |  |
| Walter |  |
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Answer
| Walter, |  |
| I think if you are planning on keeping your boat in the water in her new home in Florida, I would have it trucked down and forgo purchasing a trailer. If you are sure you need a trailer, you've got to come up with the TOTAL weight. Total weight is the dry weight, plus all gear aboard, plus all fuel aboard, and the weight of the trailer. I suspect you are approaching 9000 lbs. Then we suggest you purchase a trailer that is one step larger, like a 10,000 lb model. Don¿t go cheap on the trailer. Florida tends to have good ramps, so a good aluminum trailer with tandem axles and bunks and maybe a few rollers toward the bow will suit you well. Now the question of brakes. You should explore the upgraded electric over hydraulic brakes. Kodiak makes a good product. And finally, the truck. You are pretty close to maxing out the truck in several regards. First, check the hitch. I¿m not certain you have a Type IV hitch, which will handle 10,000lbs. If you have a Type III, forget it. Second, this model F-150 is pretty light compared to the overall loaded weight of the boat, motor, trailer and accessories. And in addition to being light, I believe your EcoBoost is a 6-cylinder. I¿m afraid you will have a warm-running vehicle when you hit the hot pavement in Florida. So give this some consideration, check pricing and weight of trailers and for grins, see what it costs to truck your boat to Florida as an option. Keep it Rolling. |  |
| Ted Sensenbrenner |  |
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Question
| Don Casey:, |  |
| I am replacing the tires on my tandem axle trailer. Is it recommended to have the new tires balanced? Tire dealer says "not necessary". Appreciate your advice! |  |
| David, |  |
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Answer
| David, |  |
| I¿ve heard arguments for both sides, but I¿m not really buying the statements I hear that you shouldn¿t because it won¿t matter. My opinion is if going highway speeds, especially taller tires, I would balance them. It doesn¿t cost much and I can¿t help but think that by having a smoother rotating tire and rim assembly they will last longer. Bouncing up and down excessively has the potential to break down sidewalls and the general tire construction. But, some will argue that the tires will dry rot before they will wear out prematurely and I¿m just not buying it. Keep it rolling. |  |
| Ted |  |
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Question
| The Boat Trailering Guys:, |  |
| what would you recommend as the contents of a ditch bag? |  |
| Malcolm |  |
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Answer
| Malcolm, |  |
| It depends on how far away you are travelling, how long you think rescue will take, and how big your boat is possibly. First, I would have a life jacket on. But if not, a life jacket for everyone should be handy. Then I would have each of the following: handheld VHF, a cell phone, and a personal locator beacon if you have one. Day/night signaling devices are like flares are a good idea. If they are wet or get wet, you¿ll want a signal mirror, a dye that turns the water orange, or an orange flag or floating streamer flag. Important papers/ID such as wallets (or passports) and ship documentation if you feel that is important is also a good idea. As for more long term survival, a first aid kit, water, energy bars and something for warmth or cold water exposure (like hat or survival suit) and something for sun (like floppy hat) is a good idea. So essentially, you need to stay afloat #1, reasonably protect yourself from the elements #2, and have a way to call/signal for help #3. Drinking and eating, of course, is a very close #4. |  |
| The Boat Trailering Guys: |  |
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Question
| Ted Sensenbrenner |  |
| My tires are wearing onthe inside can you tell me what is the best way to find out what is wrong I was told that the axele is bent what is your answer |  |
| Robert |  |
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Answer
| Robert, |  |
| It is possible that your axle is bent, or it could be an axle alignment issue. If you measure from the center of the trailer hub to the ball hitch on both sides of your trailer, you should get the same measurement. If not, loosen up one side of the axle to trailer connection so you get the same side to side measurement. Also check for proper inflation and give the wheel a spin to be certain you don't have any issues with bad bearings or rim problems. All of those problems and fixes are cheaper than replacing an axle, so start there. Keep it Rolling. |  |
| Ted Sensenbrenner |  |
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Question
| Ted Sensenbrenner |  |
| What is the difference if you replace trailer tires with passenger car tires with the same load rating, reason is my friends and I are fed up with the sidewalls of trailer tires dryrotting after 2 or 3 years even in inside storage, thanks for your answer. |  |
| Larry |  |
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Answer
| Larry, |  |
| Big difference. The side walls on trailer tires are stiffer to prevent swaying. It is a very dangerous proposition to put car or light truck tires on a vehicle that is a trailer. For trailer use, only use ST rated tires which stands for Special, Trailer. And one last thing, if you get into an accident while towing your trailer and it was discovered you were using the wrong tire, your insurance company may deny your claim. Yes, we wish too that trailer tires last longer. One way to extend life is to remove wheels over the winter or long periods of storage. Watch this video for more. http://www.boatus.com/trailerclub/magazine/2012/june/tires.asp Keep it Rolling. |  |
| Ted Sensenbrenner |  |
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Question
| Ted Sensenbrenner |  |
| Trailering Winter 2013 page 24 chart shows the Tahoe towing 8500 lbs and Yukon XL towing 5500 lbs. Can that be correct? |  |
| Dennis |  |
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Answer
| Dennis, |  |
I assume your question stems from the Tahoe and Yukon being based on the same vehicle platform. The answer is yes, the given towing capacity for similar vehicles can be radically different, but it is hard to tell if that is because of how the vehicle is set up (4WD vs 2WD for example) or how the listing was developed. In this case the towing capacities given on two different reputable websites, list the Yukon XL as having anywhere from 5,100 pounds to 8,100 pounds towing capacity, and the Tahoe as 5,500 to 8,500. The manufacturers may also choose to list the lowest towing capacity, or the maximum depending on where you look. They often advertise the max with a small note indicating you have to buy optional extras to get it up there. Those can include a tow package and in many cases a different rear axle such that the final drive ratio favors towing rather than fuel efficiency.
All of which is a long way of saying that I don¿t know why WE chose to list the max for one GM vehicle and the minimum for its sister vehicle. My preference is to always list the minimum, and the point of the article was that most mid- to full-sized SUVs will get you past 5,000 pounds. Sorry for any confusion.
Mike (Editor, BoatUS Trailering Magazine)
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| Ted Sensenbrenner |  |
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Question
| Ted Sensenbrenner |  |
| I bought a trailer and it swayed a lot on the hwy didnt know what to do.until i was asked about tongue weight,whats that? well i had a dealer weigh it for me the boat and trailer weight was 5000lb tongue was 225lb I needed 500lbs I had to move the axels back 6in and that solved the swaying I would like to see a article on tongue weight I think boaters should know about tongue weight and adjustments for safe trailering.I traveled 3200 miles with white knuckels and horn blowing |  |
| Robert |  |
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Answer
| Robert, |  |
| You did the right thing Robert. The tongue weight should be about 5-10% of your total weight of the boat motor and trailer. So 500 lbs is about right. Some experts suggest anywhere from 5-15%, but you seemed to have erred on the light side initially, which caused the swaying. Too much weight can cause some steering issues as you increase the tongue weight. This puts compression on the rear springs of your tow vehicle and causes the front of your vehicle to lift ever so slightly. We'll cover tongue weight for our readers again, soon. Keep it rolling. |  |
| Ted Sensenbrenner |  |
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Question
| Ted Sensenbrenner |  |
| what is the best way to lock up a trailer?from somebody pulling it away? coupler lock any good? |  |
| Robert |  |
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Answer
| Robert, |  |
| Yes Robert, a coupler lock is a pretty good way of going about it. There are several out there, including one from Master Lock. Another way is to run a chain through one of the spokes of the wheel or somewhere else and chain it to a tree. Or, remove the wheels entirely and store them inside if you'll be absent for a long period of time. Try not to leave your trailer tongue pointed toward the street - that makes get aways easy for a potential thief. Keep it Rolling. |  |
| Ted Sensenbrenner |  |
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Question
| Ted |  |
| Fall 2012 Ted wrote about torsion axles "can result in uneven wear" if tongue is not level, etc. I have a 2000 Kevlacat on a Float-On trailer. The axles were actually built by them back then - not by Tie-Down. I have had horrible tire wear since new. Not a whole lot of miles per year ¿ maybe average 800. Burned through the original bias tires in four years. I have Marathons' on now and they are badly cupped and worn on the outside edge. Float-on tells me "torsion axles only last a few years"- are you serious??? I have a suspicion the guy that delivered the boat from Georgia to PA hit a deer on the way (I found hair and blood on the side that wears tires the worst - right front. Maybe that is contributing.) My tongue wt is slightly on the heavy side because it seems to not sway as much that way. My trailer is not perfectly level but is so close it looks that way when you step back. How level does it need to be? Or are my OEM built axles just pure crap from the get go? New axles Tie-Downs now -are going to set me back at least $700 since I have to get them from Float-On direct. Any other thoughts? |  |
| Robert |  |
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Answer
| Robert, |  |
| I suspect you have an axel alignment issue. A start would be to take a measurement from the center of the trailer ball (the tongue will be covering it up, so place the tape measure on top of tongue directly over the center of the ball) to the center of each axel hub. The distance should be the same on each side. If not, that axel may have moved back, which could result from hitting something, usually a curb, but it¿s possible a deer could do it. Trailer suspensions don't last forever unfortunately; torsion axels and springs will eventually begin to sag but that takes an awfully long time. It sounds as though your trailer is level, but the best way to tell load distribution is going to a truck scale and get axel weights to confirm. Here¿s an interesting post I found in a forum where someone had similar issues. He explains cupping and toe-in and toe-out issues. http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=12023. I hope this helps. Keep it rolling. |  |
| Ted |  |
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Question
| Don Casey:, |  |
| I have a trailer for a Bayliner 19.5 Ft Cuddycabin. I just replaced all lights and wiring on the trailer but have a problem with the lights blinking off and on while driving. They have surge breaks and are grounded. Not sure what is causing it. Sometimes they work fine. |  |
| George |  |
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Answer
| George, |  |
| This sure sounds like a grounding issue. Look for a pinch somewhere in the wire run and look carefully for a bare wire or section of a bare wire, or possibly a loose ground to one of the light fixures or up by the ground usually found near the tongue. Keep it rolling. |  |
| Ted |  |
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