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BoatUS ANGLER Magazine
I want to talk about zincs. I have an inboard trawler. Over the years, I've had no problem with the zincs on my boat. I keep the boat in a slip and I keep a charging system going to top p the batteries. The electric system at the marina appears to be kept in tip top shape. All of my metals are grounded to each other: prop, engine, rudder, keel plate to battery neg terminal. During the last two seasons, I have developed a problem with the zinc on my prop shaft but not with any of the other zincs. This should be a clue! The 1st year I found the cap screw that holds the zinc to the shaft had fallen out and the zinc fell off (apparently near the end of the season). I went to the zinc company and they provided me with a replacement bronze adapter that fit over the prop nut and fit the new zinc perfectly. They also provided me with a new cap screw with a thread locker. I applied these items and made sure that they were torqued down: there was no looseness. This fall when I drove the boat to the ramp where I haul the boat, out I noticed a strange noise coming from the stern. Visual checks revealed nothing but engine rpm's seems to affect the noise volume and frequency. When I pulled the boat, I noticed that the prop zinc was flopping around: the cap screw was still in place and tight. There was reasonable corrosion of the zinc BUT what was interesting is that the zinc appeared to have lost material from the inside surfaces and this caused the zinc to loosen up. I understand that the metal that zincs are made from has changed from zinc to aluminum alloy. I am wondering if this is my problem? Got any ideas???
I use a well known graphite packing material as well as a Grouper/Guppy anode over the side of the boat wired to the stuffing box on my sailboat whenever the boat is at a dock or anchored. When tested with my multi-meter at anchor I'm getting a low reading indicating electrical activity. Is this confirmation that I am getting additional protection for my propeller beyond the zincs attached to it and the shaft? If not, what protection is it providing? Thank you.
I have a 1984 Bayliner with a Volvo Penta outdrive. I have been hunting for years for a flush tool that will hook up to the lower unit when I have the boat on the trailer. Do you have any idea as to what I can use other than taking the pump inlet hose loose and putting the fresh water hose in it? Any help would be greatly apprectiated. Thanks and have a great day.
I just read Don Casey's article on sea strainers and here's my question; I have what looks like a coffee can, stainless strainer, about 6" in diameter, about 6" deep with a center stud & a wingnut compressing a 1/4" thick clear lexan cover & gasket around the pot's perimeter. The strainer is a flat plate with many holes. The entire unit probably holds a couple of pints. It has a 1.125" inlet from the seacock and 1" outlet to the oil cooler/heat exchanger. Whew, my questions, finally..are you familiar with this particular device and do you know the manufacturer?
I have a Volvo MD2030 sail drive on my boat. The zinc between the 3-bladed folding propeller and the sail drive housing often comes loose after just a few hours. Since the prop must be removed to reinstall the zinc, this can be an expensive fix. Lock tite does not work. The local Volvo distributor says " ,,that's the way they are." Volvo does not offer an engineering solution. One solution from a sailing buddy was to remove the offending zinc and install a small one on either side of the sail drive housing. This looks to be worthwhile but am worried about drilling into the housing and into the cooling water area. Your thoughts and recommended solutions are most welcome!
I have 318 Chryslers with 10 micron spin on Racor filters for each motor. I understand there is now a 2 micron spin on element. Would I be better with the 2 micron, or with the 10 micron and then the 2 behind it, or leaving the 10 micron by itself .Last year I had trouble with a dirty carb and I think it was from ethanol. I use an ethanol treatment.
I have a 32' 1997 Bayliner Avanti with twin gas large block Mercruiser IOs. They are sea water cooled and have always been in fresh water (Colorado & Utah). I am considering using it for the Great Loop and maybe on to the Bahamas. (Obviously not the most fuel efficient application for these cruising grounds.) Aside from changing the anode materials, should I consider a conversion to a closed cooling system with a heat exchanger? If I continue to use the sea water cooling system, i.e. salt water circulating through the engine blocks, is there anything I should plan on doing to best preserve the integrity of the engines over what may be up to 5-years in salt water? What other considerations should I make before deciding to use this boat in salt water? Thank you for your advice and input. Roger Sams, Colorado Springs, CO
I have a 2008 Yamaha Waverunner FXSHO that I keep in DE. A local dealer told me putting non ethanol gas in with existing ethanol gas should not be done. I'm getting ready to put the boat away for the winter in my unheated garage, and can bring cans of non ethanol gas from out of state, DE bans it, to fill up the half full tank. I plan to add some Stabil, tow it around for a bit to mix the fuel, and then run it on the hose for a while, then tow it around to shake most of the water out of the engine. I've also been told trying to run pink antifreeze through it is a waste. I winterized the Yanmar in my now sold Annapolis based sailboat with pink stuff successfully for 25 years. I would think if 15% ethanol is really bad, 10% so-so, a 5% home brewed mix would be better. What are your recommendations?
I have a 2004 mercury 115 optimax. Over the summer my brother hooked the battery up wrong. We took a little cruise and everything seemed fine. He never mentioned that he hooked the battery up wrong. We cruised for about 45 minutes. A couple days later I took the wife out and after about 45 minutes I noticed the voltage dropping, I turned the boat around and headed back to the dock but after about another 20 min. the engine quit and the battery gauge was showing less than 10 volts. I got towed back to my home port. I did some checking and found that the fusible had done its job and blew out. I replaced the link and everything seemed ok. My question is could that have any effect on my tachometer. Before that I used to run about 25 mph at 5000 rpms now I can only do about 15mph at 5000rpm, If I bring the tach up to 5500 I get about 20mph. The only thing that is different is the fusible link.. Thanks in advance. Tom Goodwin
I discovered that the port side engine mount nut had come loose and had backed of about 1/4" extremely loose. I took the boat in to tighten it and inspect it and they told me that the starboard engine mount was also loose. This is my 1st boat and I have taken it in every year for them to do an alignment check/winterization. The boat is a 2011 (3yrs old) and I put about 50 hours a year on it. Is it common for these engine mount nuts to loosen like that with this amount of use? Or is it more likely they did not get tightened when the alignment was done? My concern is excessive wear has been put on the engine coupler/gimbal bearing? I have a Four Winns H180 with a Mercruiser 4.3L Alpha 1 (I think gen 2). Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am very concerned about this problem. Tim Horan
Don, how to I remove the fuel injectors on a Ford Lehman 225SP. I have the fuel lines removed. When reinstalling, what gaskets, etc will I need.
What is cavitation? What causes it?
I have searched the web for months looking for good instructions for winterizing my 1985 inboard Vdrive Mercury 350 (Chevy) with 260 hp. I paid a shop $700. bucks last year and they split an intake house putting it back together. (and no they didn't offer to replace it) Two years ago I let the former owner winterize it and I ended up with a busted oil cooler from freezing. It seems the best route is DYI but nothing I've found on the web give me the confidence that I know all the steps. I've got a "fake a lake" plunger-looking set up that fits over the raw water intake. Would running the engine and pumping 5 gallons of antifreeze through the engine and out the exhaust do the trick? Any help would be most helpful.
I'm trying to understand why everyone says a sailboat diesel engine should be run "Hard". I would think Yanmar and other manufactures of sailboat diesels would understand their engines would not be run "Hard" most of the time. My question is : Does it hurt my engine by not running it "Hard" all the time?
My port Mercury outboard 150 CXL purchased in 2001, maintained by Dealer just quit while cruising at 4000 RPM's. The #4 cylinder showed damage when the plug was pulled and now I need to spend $7K on new block installation. What should I look for to identify the cause of damage? Less than 1000 hours on the engine and I use "Fuel Medic" with each refueling as we have 10% ethanol here in the Finger Lake region. Engines have never been in salt water. Thanks, Bill
Where can I find an actual customer review of the Honda 150hp 4 stroke
Don my question is this. I have been boating for 22 years and own a 21' open bow. I perform all routine maintenance IE winterize oil change etc. I winterized my boat in 2013 and missed adding 4 out 5 quarts of oil. Start of 2014 season I had replaced my ignition and wired it incorrectly and the boat wouldn't start. I took my boat to my mechanic and he repaired my wiring issue as requested. He then proceeded to start my engine. The boat ran until it failed. The shop did not report anything to me. I found out two days later when I performed a pre run on my boat. Connecting rods came threw oil pan. Shop denies any problems. Report boat ran fine, oil was fine no alarms or issues. They had me bring boat back for a look and now report the freeze plug was found in lower engine compartment. Well this was going on I was looking for possible answers to what had happen when I noticed the 1 gallon jug of oil in my garage that should have been in my engine. Should have mechanic checked dip stick before running engine and caught my mistake and if not he should have responded to low oil alarm and lack of oil pressure on gauge before engine failure. Should they be responsible for some or all of the cost of engine replacement? Thanks Bill C. firstname.lastname@example.org
What is the appropriate oil level in the engine oil tank on a Yamaha 200HP 0x66 saltwater seriesII?
Greetings Don, I was helping a friend with a problem he is having with a fitting on his Swirl boat fuel tank. The problem is that the part of the 90 deg. elbow that hold the fuel line broke and we are trying to remove the elbow from the tank without success. This elbow is stock and does not come loose. We try using penetrating oil, brake fluid, give it some soft hits and nothing happens. We don't want to use extreme force that can break the piece that holds the elbow in the tank. What can we do to remove this elbow to replace it with a new one? Thanks.
Cruisers Yacht, 2003 3275 has twin 6.2l Horizons with bravo 3's. Port motor will not shut off from key. Replaced starter switch 2 times. New alternator and starter. Must pull connector from ECM to kill motor. Motor runs fine. When I turn on the battery switch the fuel pump energizes before the key is used. There is also an alarm sounding at the port dash side. I suspect it may be the starter solenoid.(shorting) and powering up the fuel pump when the battery switch is turned on. Any Help??? Thanks. Cliff email@example.com
I AM INSTALLING A MARINE HOT WATER HEATER WITH A HEAT EXCHANGER. I HAVE TO FEED THE HEATER FROM CUTTING INTO THE HOSE FROM THE EXPANSION TANK ON THE MOTOR TO MY MOTOR HEAT EXCHANGER. SHOULD I PUT 2 TEES IN THE LINE TO GO TO AND BACK FROM THE WATER HEATER AND THE MOTOR HEAT EXCHANGER ALSO, OR SHOULD I DIRECT THE FLOW DIRECTLY TO THE WATER HEATER AND THEN TO THE MOTOR HEAT EXCHANGER? I WILL BE GOING FROM A 11/4" TO A 5/8" HOSE TO THE WATER HEATER. THE MOTOR IS A 318 CHRYSLER.
I have a 2002 310 Sea Ray Sundancer with twin 350 MPI inboard V-drive engines. I would like to clean my throttle bodies without removing them. I've read good things about Amsoil Power Power Foam. You spray it into the Throttle body while engine is running, turn engine off, let it sit, then start and run until smoke clears. Do you have any input on this product for marine engines?
I have a 1991 Catalina 42. I replaced the shaft due to wear and tear. The shaft has to be taken out once because the threads were damaged in the installation. When completed, alignment could not correct a 0.007 gap that moved with the shaft, suggesting a slight bend. There's a 4" coupling. Would you pull the shaft to align it with this small deviation from acceptable tolerance? many thanks.
I have a 1979, 85 H.P. Evinrude out board and when I tried to start it today it wouldn't. I seem to have no spark. I forgot to put the cover on it and it rained cats and dogs the night before. It ran fine the day before. What could I have damaged by letting it get wet or is there something I can do to find out what might be wrong? Maybe just let it dry for a couple of days maybe?
Last year, i lost practically the whole season due to ethinol problems...I have a 2005 Grady with a 225 Yamaha 4 stroke. Had to have the tank drained twice (160 gals lost) VST rebuilt, new fuel pump plugs and etc. Upt to last year I followed the recommendations from the dealer to store with the tank full. Finally this past winter I stored the tank empty and winterized with avgas...No problems this spring....I am now only using avgas which is expensive...can I mix avgas and regular gas with ethinol if so what ratio do you recommend (ie 50/50, 75/25).
Have a 1996 Thompson 26' Fisherman with the 350/4 barrel carb. Poor on fuel. Been dry docked for about 6 years, going back on the water next year and will be used in my charter service. What to do for better fuel mileage--will consider re-powering but no diesel available in the area.
Every sprng the sacrificial anode in my heat exchanger (in the raw water side) is gone, and a crystaline deposit is in the area clogging the tubes, the same color (yellow-green) as the antifreeze. It is not soluble in the antfreeze, and must be remove mechanically. I use Prestone prediluted extended life, "all makes, all models, all metals, add to any other antifreeze" anti freeze. What could be more correct than this. I always put anti freeze in both the coolant and the raw water system. I put it in both systems because even drained, there could be water trapped somewhere where it could freeze and do damage, and also the anti freeze will provide corrosion protection. Can you explain this? What can I do to prevent this? No one I've contacted can, or has even heard of this happening. Keep up the good work, Charley
I have an older 2001 Yamaha 9.9 short-shaft that runs great but I'm finding I'm in need of a new tank and line (vacuum issues, bulb flattening, connectors pop off while underway). The problem is I keep hearing conflicting info. about the new EPA compliant tanks (warnings to stay away from them) but what other options are there? Boat yard is suggesting OEM tank and line but the tank specs seem to indicate "...for engines manufactured after 2012" and steering away from aftermarket (e.g. Moeller). What would the experts suggest? Thanks!
I have been searching boatus.com for the answer to my question and haven't been able to find it. Sorry if this has been asked before. My question is this. Has anyone done any testing on the 3 main de-salting products. I have looked up the MSDS of Pure Ocean Salt-Off, CRC Salt Terminator and Salt-away all three use a different active ingredient but I was wondering if any testing has been done as to which one works the best. Its hard to see if they are working without tearing down your motor. Thank you
Mr. Casey, I have an Evinrude 75 HP E-TEC White Saltwater O/B 2010 yr. model, I have a question regarding water pressure and impeller function in my engine; running at about 3000 rpm my water pressure gauge reads 10, on occasion when I rev up the engine the water pressure will go up to 15; at idle the water pressure shows less than 10. My impellers were changed out about 18 months ago. Do I have a problem here with my impellers? Do they need changing? What is a normal water pressure gauge reading for usual operation at 3000 to 4500 rpm on my engine? Thank you for taking my question.
Hi Folks, need some help here. I have a 2005 Sea-ray 270 Amber Jack with a 6.2 horizon B3 outdrive, under 400 hours and is well serviced and maintained. The issue: I went to the boat this weekend went through proper start up procedures turned the key to on position prior to starting to allow smart craft to initialize and the warning horn does its normal beeps but PRIOR to ignition will sound constantly and on the gauge the check engine scroll appears. I did start the engine hoping it would clear but it didnt. All gauges are running, engine is running smooth. All fluid levels are within normal operating levels............. I looked at all the connections and everything seemed proper. Any ideas? I am at a loss on what to do now. Thanks in advance.
I would like to ask a question regarding the priming of the fuel system on a Prout Catamaran 39. My question is accompanied by an image and a drawing, and I am unable to attach both of those in this box. If you send me an email, I will send question, image, and drawing back to you. Thank you so much. Mike
Greetings, We have a 1981 Carver Santa Cruz equipped with a 1995 Ford 351 engine. Several years ago I replaced the points type distributor with an electronic one and matching coil. It appears to be a Petronix conversion or similar as it uses a conventional cap and rotor. My question is: should have the ballast resistor been removed at that time (or now)?\ Thanks Mike Mihalic Burbank, WA
My regal 2665 with volvo penta 8.1 GI DP will not go on plane. Have replace fuel pump, checked plugs, compression etc. all ok. IN neutral RPM goes to 4k however underway does not go above 2500 before limp mode. Engine has injectors, not cap and rotor. Any ideas?
Don, I have a 2006 Sea Ray 270 Amberjack with a mercruiser 496cu.in 375hp enclosed cooling system & bravo III. I need to replace the impeller this spring, and i'm wondering if you might have step by step instructions on how to accomplish this. I have done this on big blocks before, but this one is different. Because of the new type fuel filter and the enclosed cooling system, I can barely see the pump. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks Ray Pomaville (Gibraltar Mi.)
I have a Lehman 120 with a remote filter. Is there any reason I can't flip the filter so the opening faces up to make oil changes less messy?
I have a 32ft. Bristol sailboat I keep on a mooring. It has a Westerbeke diesel engine that does not have spark plugs/or glow plugs. It just firers on compression. It was built in 1977. It is a great little engine but it does not start with out a shore powered heat gun when the weather gets in the 40s. I have two batteries. One a new deep cell and one a five year old cranking/starter battery. All summer long I had to use both together to start the engine, but when fall came around they could not do it. What do you suggest I do to improve my chances of getting the engine started in the cold and have a running lights & radio battery supply? Should I build a starter battery bank that has two starter batteries and then keep the deep cell separate for lights etc¿? Is there a heating system that would not use shore power to better heat the air going into the engine? I wish this engine would have come with the compression release feature to get the engine spinning before putting on the compression for it to fire. Any suggestions? Sincerely Mark Hansen, Racine, Wisconsin
Hi Experts, You guys do a great job with your section & the whole magazine. I have a '87 42ft Carver with the usual 340hp Mercruisers. These 454ci gas engines are topped with Quadrajet carburetors & they've logged about 1000 hours. I'm interested in making her as efficient, as possible, & am planning on rebuilding or replacing the carbs. Any advice is welcome. Thanks, Jerry Collin
i have a 9KW Onan diesel genet that is overheating. I have been all through the raw water pump, heat exchanger, syphon breaker. it appears i have the specified flow at the discharge of the heat exchanger where it goes into the exhaust. it then goes overboard through a muffler and what appears like a resonator to a through hull. Raw water flow out of the through hull is about half of the flow i get at the discharge of the heat exchanger. I am suspecting a blockage in the muffler or what I call the resonator. Have you ever heard of a blockage in one of these components? any suggestions?
I need to tighten the packing on the propeller shaft . It has a locking nut and a nut to compress the packing. Looking toward the stern from the engine does the lock nut turn clockwise or counter clockwise? It is going to require some strong wrench turning and I need to be sure of the correct direction or will that depend on the shaft rotation? My prop walk is to the SB Joe
Four Winns 2001 Sundowner 235 FWNM5012H001 Engine type Volvo Penta 5.7GSI PEFS Serial number 4012030211 I am the third owner of the above referenced boat. A problem since owning this boat has become more annoying and I now discover the last owner had the same problem. PROBLEM: A very erratic low oil pressure alarm occurs frequently between 2-5 minutes. It can occur at idle, at full power or at in-between throttle settings whether in smooth or rough water. When it occurs, the oil pressure gauge needle shows no oil pressure. After varying lengths of time, the oil pressure gauge needle rises and the alarm quits. The previous owner had the instrument cluster removed and repaired or replaced. Additionally, the oil pressure sensor on the engine has been changed numerous times. But the problem continued. Since owning the boat, I have had the oil sensor changed also. I have also had a manual gauge attached and no fluctuations of oil pressure occur. I have disconnected the wire from the sensor and the alarm still goes on and off. I have searched many threads on the internet regarding this engine and find a great number of similar complaints but no solutions to the problem. Your resolution will probably have many people cheering. Here are the questions I have. 1. Do oil pressure sensors work on different pressures before they send a signal to the instrument face, i.e. have we been putting a wrong pressure sensor on this engine or are they all identical? The mechanics are unaware of any differences. 2. Is there more than one sensor somewhere on or in the engine that even the mechanics are unaware of. One internet thread briefly mentioned this possibility but the thread died at that point. 3. Assuming the sensor and the instrument cluster are operating correctly, I imagine I should investigate the multi-wire cable from the engine to the instrument cluster. Do you have any suggestions to efficiently do this? 4. Can you advise how the instrument cluster can be removed? To date, I have failed. If you can advise on this, I may be able to find the alarm buzzer and fix it by hammering an 8-penny nail through it. Robert Amsler 20460 St. Laurence Clinton Township, Michigan 48038 J120005@aol.com
I am replacing a circulating pump on one of my 330 Sundancer's (1998) 7.4L MPI engines, with a standard seawater cooling system. She is a Great Lakes boat, winter heated stored with 600 hours on her engines. Both engines run around 170 degrees on the gauges. I have no repair history beyone the 2 years we've owned her, however the other circulating pump and both seawater pumps were repalced last season. My questions are, should the thermostat be replaced at this time and should the engine be filled up with water (or antifreeze) for the duration of winter storage?
I own a 2001 c hawk center console and the last two times I fueled I could smell gas fumes from under the console. opening all doors and hatches the fumes dissipated after a few hours. I checked the bilge and with no evidence of fuel the mechanic states that the fuel hoses on a 2001 year boat were not made to handle ethanol and they could be detiorating. do you agree with this assessment and if so do you feel I should replace all the fuel hoses with ones made to handle ethanol?
I have a 3.3 Merc, 2003 dingy motor that runs good warm or cold. Until i put it in the upright position when i take the dog to shore and have to put it up to avoid rocks. Depending upon the time it is in that position it take an eqaul numbers of pulls to finaly get it to start. When i put it in the really high position it leaks gas around the gas cap. Are these 2 problems or one? How to correct? Thanks,
Hi Don, Working on a 90hp 2 stroke Yamaha 1990. Engine idles fine but will not power up. Went ahead and changed plugs. Started up powered up pretty good, but went back to no power with some backfiring. Boat has been sitting a few months, friend had been using it this past summer and said it started running bad.Just wondering if I just need to rebuild carbs. Don't think they were using non ethanol and probably they were not adding anything to gas. Thought backfiring may relate to an ignition problem. Not sure trying to figure out where to start.
do you have to drain block on an inboard motor raw water cooled to winterize it in NJ. its 5.7 L Marine power engine. Is it acctable to run moter for 15 min with fresh water thru intake hose then run 5 gals of marine antifreeze -50 until it comes out of exhaust port.
ALL YOUR EXPERTS My brother-in-law owns a small boat which I go out fishing whit him. With a 2002 Yamaha 2 cycle 60 HP 3 cylinders, Model # 6H260TLRA. I usually work on it when it has a problem. Beginning of 2013 season when he tried to start the engine in he¿s yard, before taking it to the ramp. It gave hem hard time it acted like it wanted to start but just kept on dying out. I went over. It has 2 inline filters, one in the engine compartment and one outside on the fuel line, I checked them out they were clean and full, but I figured I¿ll changed them, also made sure fuel line wasn¿t clogged by squeezing the primer ball, I had fuel coming up all the way to fuel pump. I reconnected the fuel line, I gave couple of more squeezes to the primer ball until it hardened, and try to start the engine; it started right up and ran like there wasn¿t anything wrong. I let it warm up for a little while; I turned it off and waited a while then tried to start it, it started right up, so I tried the same thing about 3 or 4 times, each time letting it cool off longer and longer, no problem, it started all the time. The next morning we took the boat to the ramp, when I tried to start it, same problem it wouldn¿t stay running. He took it to Yamaha repair shop; they told him it was the carburetors 3 of them, and the oil injector. After $ 800.00, we used the boat every weekend, and sometimes even during the week, about 2 and half months. He trailers he¿s boat and he fills up from a gas station on the way to the ramp, and every time when we fill up I add STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment Marine Formula 1 ounce to 5 gallons. About 3 weeks ago we got stuck, finely it started and it was running on one cylinder so we were able tore make it back. Next day I pulled the Carburetors out and when I checked the float compartment, it was full of WHITE POWDERY stuff, I cleaned it out, I also sprayed the carb W/ Carb cleaner, checked the float and the needle, Put everything back together, it started right up. Next day took it back out, it worked OK all day, we went out two more times, but the third time the same thing, and we kame back on one cylinder, the top one. Filters were clean. Do you know what this problem is? Have you heard other cases similar to mine? I appreciate if you give me an answer of some kind, good or bad. Thanks: Mark, Syosset NY
last night I attempted to winterize a maxum 3700 scr the way I've done my 3300 for 10 years. I close the seacock and run anti freeze in the intake hose to strainer and pump until pink come out side of boat. Last night after having a tough time getting hose off decided to clean the strainer, then just add antifreeze through there. The strainer stayed full as I kept adding antifreeze and the a/c unit never pumped water through. It worked fine minutes before with the seacock open. I then put basket back in strainer and opened seacock, and still no water circulaing out thru hull. Did the pump just break that moment, or any suggestions? thanks Ken
1977 85 hp Johnson outboard runs good for a while then bogs down and/or stalls. Boat will not restart right away. 10 minutes later it will restart and runs fine. Any ideas??
keith here,hi don I am looking to up grade from my old 96 225 Johnston motor and boat,,looking at 2 boats with Yamaha"s 200 hp one is a hpdi with 500 hrs its a 2004, other one is a 200 no hpdi 2003 just a 2 stroke fuel injected with 200 hrs on it, my question is I know the hpdi is less smoke, smoother running,quieter motor but witch one is the better of the two,i check a lot of reviews online of the hpdi lot of fuel problems,dont know if worth extra money for less smoke and all that and without paying for a 4 stroke,
Hi im looking for a newer boat motor had a 96 johnston wanted something less smoke and smoother quiter looking at a boat with 03 200 hp yamaha 2 stroke fuel injected and another boat with 04 200 hp hpdi yamaha motor heard mix reviews on hpdi??? In you opion witch is bette for what I want less smoke quiter smoother I know the hpdi are but the reviews online worry me the hpdi has 500 hrs on one the other just fuel injected 2 stroke non hpdihas 137hrs any info would be great thanks
Hello Don Kasey, thank you for your previous answers to my questions. I have a new problem and is with the Power Tilt/Trim of my Starboard Volvo Penta 4.3GL Engine. The pump is not responding when I press the up/down switch on the Morse SL-3 Controls. I took the pump out and verify its function with direct current and the pump works perfectly. I then replace the two relays of the pump but nothing happens, only a rattle sound when I activate the pump up and down. A friend helped me to check if there was voltage when activate the pump and it shows positive. Don't know what else to do, please help, thanks.
We are looking at buying a 1994 Searay sundancer. It is a saltwater boat with twin 454s (merc)and 950 hours. It has had new prop shafts, impellers, manifolds, risers, belts, circulating pumps, fuel senders, engine gauges, and fuel managers. The boat has been well maintained. Should we be concerned about the motors? It does not has seadrive We plan on using it in freshwater.
I recently had my boat hauled in NJ for lay-up. The marina says they will winterize the engines while the boat is up on land? twin inboard 500 diesel cummins. I have never heard it done out of the water and just curious if you know about it being done this way? thankyou
I hadn't used my boat with a gas mercruiser for a couple of weeks. Just after starting, upon throttling after a no wake zone, it seemed to miss and back fire once, with slightly lower RPM. Shortly after I added fuel to my 100 gal tank (it had about 25 gals of gas and I mistakenly had diesel (25 gals) added). Obviously, the engine died and we were towed to our dock. The dock mechanic drained the fuel tank, changed the fuel separator, "cleaned carb" and added 50 gals of fresh gas, but now the boat really backfires, lower RPM's and hiccups. He said "this would work itself out" but now I am wondering if these issues are exclusive to each other. What might be the short term and long term affects of this diesel mistake. If the back firing and missing is an ignition issue separate from the fuel issue I'll have my main mechanic start on this Thanks...I'm kind of stumped and really kicking myself for the fuel mistake
I have a 2007 Larsen with a 270 hp Volvo Penta that sometimes overheats while cruising. If I shut the engine down for less than a minute and restart the temp is down to 155. I have replaced the water pump. At no wake it never overheats. the boat is kept in rack storage in Florida. Used in salt water. My service tech does not suspect the sender or the gauge. Any ideas. I have not replaced the riser /manifold yet but I will.
Hello, I have been chasing air leaks in my fuel system for years, swapping out parts and fixing certain conditions along the way. Here are the details: Engine: Yanmar 1GM10 Boat: 33¿ Tartan Ten sailboat (7,000 lbs, displacement hull) Operation 1. Engine starts normally, from a cold state. 2. Engine warms up without issue at ~2,000 RPM 3. Leave the mooring after warm-up 4. 2-3 minutes after running under load at 3,000 RPM, RPMs drop, power sags 5. Drop throttle to low RPMs, in gear, bleed secondary filter 6. Engine RPMs increase, engine runs fine at 3,400, sometimes for hours thereafter. 7. Hoist sails, cool engine at idle for ~5 minutes, then shut off 8. Sail for 1-2 hours in all conditions, from light to strong breeze and heavy seas 9. Restart engine, runs OK 10. Take sails down and throttle up, engine sags as in #4 above again. 11. If action #5 (bleeding) is not repeated, engine will eventually starve and bleeding will have to be done downstream of injector pump. 12. After second bleeding engine runs normally again. Here are the changes I¿ve made in chronologic order: 1. Replaced copper fuel line, during a hull re-core, with fuel-rated hose (unsure of type, but recall it was ¿fuel hose¿, 2006) 2. Replaced primary fuel and water separator cup (2007) 3. Replaced entire secondary filter due to stripped bleed screw threads (2010) 4. Replaced both filters each year at end of season (2012) 3. Replaced lift pump and metal sheathed hose to secondary filter. Replaced all crush washers on banjo fittings. (Spring 2013) 4. Re-made all fuel fittings (11 of them) between fuel tank and secondary filter. Used Permatex on threaded fittings and cut hose ends at nibs (August 2013) Thanks in advance!
My 1967 Inland Seas 34' never had sea strainers. I have newer 350 cu. in. Crusaders. I purchased strainers and need to know about elevation for installation. Does strainer need to be below pump intake for a continous rise from seacock to pump. Can I mount them higher than pump without airlock issues?
i have a 1988 3.7 4cyl mercury cruiser with a closed cooling system. Is it alright to use the GM DEX-COOL coolant (orange coolant} in the sea water & fresh water sides or should I stay with the green coolant I've been using. any help will be appreciated.
Hello - My basic question is whether the process of repacking traditional (i.e., non-"dripless") shaft seals requires or typically includes running the engines to adjust the drip rate. Here is why the answer is important. I had a boatyard (where I had almost $10K of work done over the last year) send a tech to my boat to repack the shaft seals. The main engine seacocks were closed. After that work was done, the next time I started the engines, there was no water flow from the exhaust from EITHER engine and the raw water pump impellers (one of which had been replaced only 3 weeks earlier) were completely disintegrated. I believe that their tech ran the engines to adjust the drip rate without opening the seacocks and caused the raw water pump I had. The yard claims that the shaft seal repack process does not include running the engines and has suggested that perhaps BOTH raw water pumps lost prime. The boat was operated without problems 2 weeks prior to their work. I find it inconceivable that both raw water pumps could fail simultaneously for any reason, including losing prime. Can you please at least tell me whether the shaft seal repack process requires or typically includes running the engine and, if you feel inclined, comment on their assertion? Thanks for your help.
Don Casey, I have a small Boston Whaler with a 1987 25 horse Yamaha that runs great. I keep it in the waters of the Myakka River in Fl. up to 3 months at a time . The Myakkas' water is brackish shallow and has a muddy bottom , which I have made contact with many times. My question is, do I need to flush the motor with clean water at anytime during the 3 months it's in the river? If so how without taking out of the water,,,,P.S. Great Magazine ,, Thanks you,, Vinny
''03 Sea Ray with twin Merc 6.2's. Starboard engine will not start after running for an hour, but will later restart the next morning. Boat has one fuel tank and includes two fuel pumps. Any ideas?
How much more maintenance is there on an outdrive boat compared to an inboard boat 18 to 20'
1990 150hp Mariner Outboard, full throttle to reach plane then it idles down, never kills but will not sustain speed
Hi Don I have a 1996 Johnson 9.9 4 stroke high thrust J10FRELEDR I am on my 3rd fuel pump in the last 4 years with the 3rd on order now. The guy at the marina said that there were a lot of defective pumps made. Is this true? and is there anything I can do to get a pump that will last? thanks Rich
I have a 1987 23ft bayliner trophy.Sometimes the shifter can travel from forward to neutral to reverse just fine and sometimes instead of reverse i am still in forward..bad ...
I have a 1999 Volvo 5.7 GSIDP engine. What is the appropriate range for compression. I getting alot of BS.
I have a Carver456 aft cabin with the 8.2l mercruiser gas engines and 420 hrs. The starboard transmission failed for the 2nd time in 3 years. The output shaft broke cleanly by the retaining nut on the threaded portion of the shaft. I never shift in or out of gear above idle (600-650 rpm). The damper plate and oil cooler were replaced each time a remanufactured transmission was installed. My marine tech says the output shaft is only approx. 1" dia. and this is to small for the hp & torque of these engines. I bought the boat used in 2002 and had no problems until 2010. What is your take on this problem & any suggestions? Should I purchase a new transmission rather than a rebuilt unit? Thanks for any help you can give me. arman
i have a 2007 rinker 350 with a kohler 5ecd generator with 200 hrs on it. I have a problems with it overheating. i have checked for antifreeze level, air lock, water intake, impeller,changed thermonstat, changeed radiator cap and it still overheats. plus in december 2012 i had a kohler distributors work on it costing $3000. it worked about 4 hrs and is overheating again. i have searched the webb and find other boaters with the same problems. I have asked kohler if there has been upgrades, recalls, or any modifications to this generator. have not heard from them. i can not even get at what temp that engine should run at. do you have any suggestions on what is wrong. it is hot in texas and this generator is worthless.
I'VE GOT A 1987 SEARAY 268 SUNDANCER I WANT TO PUT IN SALTWATER. DOES IT HAVE ONBOARD ANTIFREEZE. IF SO, WHERE IS THE RESERVOIR
We have a ComPac 27 with a Universal M12 engine. For two years I have had an intermittent problem regarting a failure to engage starter when pushing glow plug and starter buttons. When this happens it starts after a couple more tries. We have pulled the starter and had it tested, checked all connections and replaced the starter button. Still happens. Any other suggestions? Thanks for your help!
(1999 Chris Craft 320 w/ twin OMC Cobra 5.7 GSi and Volvo I/O drives) suddenly cannot get more than 3400 rpm from the port engine while in gear. Revs fully in neutral. Everything "sounds" OK. Nothing appears unusual while accelerating or while cruising up to 3400 (which is just a shade over planing speed). Lots of possibilities, I know. Question is: "Where is the best place to start troubleshooting, and what is the best sequence to follow that if it does not prove successful?" Thank you.
Dear Don, I have a Volvo penta 5.7L gxi-j. I recently had it serviced and new manifolds and risers. When the Rome get to 3800- 4000 it surges and won't go above 4000 rpm Thanks Andrew
Just came back from a wonderful time on the water.When we got back home to flush motor it would not turn over all I could hear was a slight hum.Tried it a couple of times but no luck.Battery was just bought in May brand new. It is a 2004 merc.60hp bigfoot and the war.just expired in May of this year. I was hoping you could give me some insights to what could be wrong just in case its a easy fix if not to the shop it goes. THANKS
I have a volvo penta MD2030D diesel engine with a sail drive. The engine has a sea water to antifreeze heat exchanger. Is there a sacrificial anode for the cooling system either in the sea water or antifreeze or both? If yes, please tell me what to look for as I cannot find one. I do realize that there are 2 anodes on the sail drive. One on the drive unit the other on the prop. Do these take care of the entire engine? Thank you.
Don, I own a 96 I/O 4 cyl mercruiser. Last winter before layup I replaced the starter with a brand new starter made in China. While cracking it made an awful racket like metal against metal. I thought the bearings must be bad. Replaced new starter with another new starter from same company.Bolted up perfect. Same noise just less of it. Two brand new starters can't be bad so I'm at a loss for answers. Do you have any ideas on what is making this awful noise while cracking? Thank you in advance for any help you can provide. Sam Barkdoll
I have a 2002 Parker 2520XL, about 5300 lbs with a single 2011 250 Yamaha four-stroke. The new motor didn't come with a prop, so I used my old one off a 225 Yamaha. I feel it's not reaching its full potential. I want to replace the prop with a stainless steel 4 blade prop. Could you recommend one?
I have a 1998 Mercruiser 5.7 inboard engine. The seawater pump is starting to show grease coming out of what looks like a vent hole. The engine has about 1,000 hours on it. Does this indicate the bearings have overheated and the pump should be replaced? I change the impeller once per year but have not done anything else to the pump.
I was in the process of commissioning a "new to us" trawler and have refitted all running gear (hull, shaft, trim tabs, thrusters) with aluminum anodes as recommended for fresh water cruising. I have also read that it is recommended in your articles to avoid mixing anode metals on a vessel. I am now wondering if I need to replace all of the engine, transmission, generator, water heater pencil anodes with aluminum to be completely compatible. I'd appreciate any additional insights or suggestions into the issues with mixing anode metals, especially the pencil types used on engines & auxiliary equipment. Don Kloeber Finger Lakes, NY
Don I have a F250 Yamaha 4 stroke outboard out of warrenty. Is it still necessary to use Yahama oils and filters instead of good generic brands? Thand You Vince Boyle
My boat will be out of the water all season. It has 80 gallons of fuel with Sta-bil in it since October 2012. How long can I keep the fuel in that condition? Thanks
Hello Don, I am having troubles starting one of my boat engines. The engines are a pair of Volvo Penta 4.3GL,and the one on port side is giving rattle sound on the starter every time I turned the key on. A couple of days ago we started the engine by using 24 volts and after it turns, we change to 12 volts and the engine started like new. I left it run for like 10 minutes, turned it off and on for several times and it worked normally. I went to start the engine once again a couple of days after that and the same problem re-appeared. What is the problem here? I replaced the starter, battery cable, and the battery but the problem persist, please help me out, thanks.
Have pieces of zinc anodes rattling around in the heat exchanger. How can I remove them or dissolve them?
Two Crusader 454s have sat unstarted for years. Sludge in oil. If I add a sludge treatment to oil Im liable to get broken off hunks of sludge lodged against the screen blocking oil flow. To drop and clean pan engines would have to be pulled ..big job ...Any suggestions? Thanks.
I have a 1987 Carver Santego 2765. It has 2 4.3L mercs. I replaced both outdrives last year. My starboard engine always gets hot when in idle or running low RPM's. I replaced the New impeller and it did not help. There is rust in the cooling loop. Would that cause my problem? Also, the hoses to the thermostat(also new)has a "pin" with a ball and spring in it. What is that for?
I have a 1983 Volvo Diesel #TAMD40B. I removed the 2 thermostats to replace them, but I didn't know (untill I got the new ones) that they are not the same temperature, one is 70'c and the other one is 76'c and has an air vent. Could you tell me if it matters what position they go into in the heat exchanger.
I have a 1999 Larson with twin Volvo outdrives that I keep in a marina on the Connecticut River(fresh water). For years I have used Magnesium anodes. Since I have retired, I am using the boat much more in salt water. Two years ago I had to replace the Magnesium anodes 1/2 way thru the season. Last year I used Aluminum anodes and noticed that they did not disappear and I had some corrosion. My question is "What do you think about using Aluminum anodes on the outdrives and hanging a Magnesium fish whenever my boat is docked in fresh water?". Thanks, Dave Lamb
I have a 28" 1984 Uniflite Saltydog. I installed PSS dripless shaft seals about 6 years ago. My question is how often I should replace the rubber billows? They look like new at this point. Thank you. JIM
Don: your peace in March 2013 Sail Magazine on Boatyard Zen showes a Faramen engine. Great to see another one, I have one in a bayfield 32 built in 74. I have a problem with starting -- I crank for one or two min. before it starts to kick off and then it slowly gets up to speed. There is some gray smoke at first but then it goes away and I have sut in fantail. Have worked with deconpresstion Lever and that seems to help. Please your thoughts -- Rocky
I have volvo diesel engines year 2007 in my boay they have about 300hrs on them. I have never seen exhaust smoke coming from them lately when running them at dock(600 to 1000 rpm)I see blue/white exhaust smoke. The boat has not been run for about 2 months. Do I need a fuel additive because fuel has been laying in tank for a while or is there some underlying problem?
Ref. : http://my.BoatUS.com/askexperts/DONCASEY/question.aspx?expertid=2&questionid=82223 Thank You Don for the above reference. I appreciate the the information you have provided. Phillip
Don, I have an 2006 Volvo Penta 8.1 gi. I will be replacing manifolds and risers and considering Stainless Steel, one piece manifolds. Is there any negatives vs oem parts that I should be aware of. Thank you.
My Albermarle heats up when slowing to an idle but cools when back on plane mainly during Summer fishing runs but not Spring or Fall. The motor is a freshwater cool 454 V8 Crusader year 2000. I changed the thermostat and changed the raw water pump. I ruled out through hull pickup. Recirculater pump looks fine. Could it be the heat exchange? I had it acid treated and it looks fine. Still having the same problem. My main fishing grounds are Narragansett Bay and waters off Block Island RI. Any suggestions?
Don, This is another point to your answer with the alternator belt issue in Dec 2012 article. I had the same problem with my crusader engine, belts would break after 8 hrs of use. All repair and parts suppliers had the same belt listed,same problem. After review I found that the pulleys were for a B type belt vs A type. I measured the length and changed to B type and never had a problem again, 2 yrs. Differnece is the width of the belt and V pattern. FYI Rick
Hello and Happy New Year "Experts", I have a 1984 sky boat propelled by an OMC (stringer) I/O. This last summer I discovered a crack in the top edge of the boot that surrounds where the stern drives passes through the transom. I understand OMC / Bombardier quit making these units in the early 90's and that "new" parts are not to be found anywhere. Question # 1: Is there a method to patch this rubber boot? It is a horizontal crack in the highest point on the boot just before it overlaps top edge of the hole in the transom. The most of the time it is above the water line. Question # 2: Do you have any suggestions on how I might go about searching for used part? Thank You for any advice you might have to help me get a couple more seasons of use out of this fresh water only sky boat.
I have a 1990 SeaRay 280 with twin 260hp mercruisers. The props turn in the same direction. Is it a good idea to switch to counter rotating props? And do I have to change engines or just Alpha one drives or both? Are there significant advantages to this upgrade?
I have a 1999 Boston Whaler Dauntless with 135 HP 2-stroke Optimax engine. Until about a year ago the temperature gauge never moved above the half way mark. Now however it climbs to above the three quarters mark whenever I go slow( 4 or 5 knots) for more than a few minutes. No alarms sound and everything seems normal except it's higher temperature reading. When i pick up speed to say 25 knots the gauge comes way down again. I've had a complete cooling system service with new impellar and a new temperature gauge but it's still the same. Should I expect an engine this age to run hotter at low revs? Recently my marina store talked me into using synthetic oil instead of the regular Optimax oil. Could this have an effect? Thanks, John
Mr. Casey: I own a 2000 Johnson 90hp 2-cycle outboard with oil injection. It has 480 hours on it. I have owned it since it was new; it runs fine except it now smokes a lot on start up and a little when running. Can this be repaired? The last serviceman just chuckled at the question and replied "It's a 2 stroke, right?"
i replaced the orig. long block 270 crusader on my 1984 carver mariner and used the existing intake manifold and 4 bl. rochester carb.- getting dark colored smoke at the exhaust and evidence of fuel on the water surface when i shut it down - what's my problem? - i keep thinking it's the carb. but i cannot find a replacement or a rebuilt one anywhere - the replacement engine is new and i installed it myself - thank you so much - duane willoughby
I HAD READ AN ARTICLE ON BOAT US RECENTLY REGARDING THE DRY EXHAUST IN F225 YAMAHA OUTBOARDS. MINE WERE MFD IN 2002. SO WHEN I TOOK MY BOAT IN FOR SERVICE I HAD THE SHOP INSPECT FOR THE ISSUE. SURE ENOUGH, THE INTERNAL PARTS ARE CORRODED AND MUST BE REPLACED. SINCE THIS SEEMS TO BE A PROBLEM INHERENT TO TE DESIGN ON THESE ENGINES, IS YAMAHA PROVIDING ANY TYPE OF SUPPORT TO HELP CORRECT THE PROBLEM?
Don Your answer in the latest BostUS magazine regarding oil changes seems to muddy the waters even more. Steve D'Antonio's article in the latest "Passage Maker" recommends adding a bypass filter in addition to the full flow filter to your engine in order to extend oil life and, based on regular lab analysis, extend change periods significantly beyond a year. My owners manual recommends every 250 hours or annually. Since I have a trawler I could change oil several times in a year when I did extended cruising. Since I live on the south coast of North Carolina and can use the boat locally most of the year, but still not accumulate 250 hours, I choose to change oil and all filters (oil/fuel) annually in the fall. And then there are synthetics which have a whole different set of parameters. Your article addressed seasonally used boats and is probably appropriate for northern based boats which are laid up in the fall, often on the dry, and are unused for 5-7 months. But the question was from Alabama, certainly not a cold climate state requiring extensive winter preparations unless this is a lake boat in the Ozark mountains. I guess the best advice is follow your manual and use common sense. Jim Kraft
As both diesel fuel heaters and fuel coolers are available, it begs the question: what is the ideal temperature of diesel fuel as it enters the engine? I have a Detroit Diesel 671 N rated at 218 HP, and I understand that fuel is used to help cool the injectors. At the same time, you don't want cold fuel either. Thanks for your thoughts. Richard
Our boat, a blackfin 29 sport fisherman, recently when through the hurricane Sandy. It was in winter storage,dry dock marina. Chadwick Island Marina, Normandy Beach, NJ. I have not been able to see the boat yet because the authorities have closed all travel onto the barrier island. We had a high water condition that allowed sea water into the hull and well over the engines (two 454 Crusaders). What can I do to save the engines and wiring. We know for a fact that the boat is off the blocks and on the ground (aerial photo).
can i pour antifreeze into the sea strainer bowls while running the engines and will this winterize my inboards correctly?
Dear Don, I have twin Crusader 5.7 fuel injected engines and I want to know how to winterize the fuel system. I have heard not to fog them and need to run a special fuel mixture throughout the system. What is your suggestions. Thanks,Alan
I have 2 Twin Disk marine transmissions(1989 model MG502 1P) that had water contaminated oil (milkshake consistancy and appearance). I've drained and recovered the oil. What should I flush them out with? Diesel fuel or regular oil? How do I determine what weight and type of oil to refill with? The original Lubrication Plates seem to be missing.
I have had a gas smell in my boat(2002 Parker 2310 walkaround) for over a year.The smell is strong in the aft bilge and in in cabin. I called Parker and did what they suggest, pressure check the tank and replace all the hoses that are connect to the tank.The tank held pressure for three hours, with no signs of leaking. I bought the boat new from Shallotte Marine in North Carolina with a Yamaha SX225TXRA motor. The tank(150gl) is install before the cotpit is glassed, so removeing it be a chore. Thanks in advance Gary Polk
Hi Don, I have a 2006 Mercury Optimax 200HP onm a 20.5' Boston Whaler Eastport. For the past four years, I've pulled the boat out of the water and stored it over the winter on a trailer generally from late Novemebr to Late March. (coastal North Carolina). I have never 'winterized' the boat. Instead I crank it and let it run to operating temperature about every two or three weeks during the winter. I'm now wondering if I would be better off to winterize it and not run it at all. I've had no mecahnical problems and the boats cranks well during the winter and when I put it back in the water in the spring. I am flirting with disaster by not doing a traditional wintering job on the motor. What's your take? John
Hi Don: I habe a 2003 Sea Ray Sundancer with twin mercruiser 6.2L. i have had the boat just over a year. In february 2011, the previous owner had to change out the port motor for a new long block installed by the mercruiser dealer, who also later brokered the boat. We had a clanging from the bottom of the motor and have had it hauled out to the same service people. I have yet to see a report, but in aphone call, they think it threw a rod because water got in through the manifold. How likely is a manifold leak or head gasket failure 18 months after a new block is installedby a supposedly reputable dealer? I think they know they are responsible for the damage, but will try to get out of it..the mercruiser block warranty was only 12 months and expired. Is there a service within Boat US that helps with independent engine inspection or some help to fight the dealer? Thanks, liesa and Steve Dan Point, CA
Don, I have a 96 330 sundancer with twin 454. I was running and my strbd engine stopped running. I got back to the slip and found no fuel in the fuel line to the card from the filter to the pump and the filter was half full made sure I had gas in the tank and still nothing ? If I pour gas in the carb it will start and run could this be either the anti siphon or a fuel pump? this would be the third fuel pump on this engine. Thank you
My westerbeke 38b recently while motoring forced coolant into the overflow jar to the point that it forced the cap off and flowed over. The engine never over heated and there is no evidence that water or coolant got into the oil. The next day when the engine had cooled down the remaining coolant drained back into the engine. When I started the engine at the dock and ran it for about 30 min I could not get it to repeat the symptoms and the engine seemed to run fine. Wondering what would cause the coolant to force itself into the overflow with such force. Also the coolant seemed to be somewhat diluted as if raw water had entered the system. Thanks for any insight into this issue---Clint
I have a 2004 ANGLER i'M THE OWNER 22 FT CENTER C. this is the frist year I'm have trouble filling the Boat the gas backs up the fuel line I can't go any slower and i can't find the gas vent.
Don, past winters have put "store n start" in the tank and filled same. My tank is very low, less than 10 gallons, am considering just putting enought "store n start" in to protect the 10 gallons. Had a problem with stale fuel this season and think it would be better to not have 65 gallons in the tank. I have read some articles both ways on "over winter" fuel tank recommendations. Thoughts? Thanks, Jim
1985 Carver with twin 270 Crusaders. Raw water cooled. Starboard engine outboard side exhaust manifold drain 1/4NPT is corroded so badly that it that it won't retain brass plug. Been able to make it work for the past 6 year, this fall was the final failure. Looks like a blank off plate with a drain hole on the bottom. Can't re tap in place. Looks like it could be replaced, but I can't find the part. Or it could be removed and re tapped. Would rather have new part if available. I have picture of the part in question and can send if that would help. Any help would be welcome. Henry Romig Henry Romig
I have a Perkins 4-108 that has not been run for at least 6 years. It is in a 36ft sailboat. I will cleanout the fuel system and change oil before I try to start it. Is there anything else I should do? I have re-commissioned gas engines before and have always squirted some oil in the spark plug holes before starting. Is there a similar process for diesels? Thank You Jerry Kimble
I have 1993 twin mercruiser alpha one generation II.6 cyclinders I need to replace the bellows, gimble bearings ,shift cables and trim senders. I am pretty mechanical and am wondering if this is something I could do or should I have the marina mechanics do it. I probably don't have the specialized tools that will be needed to do this project. My question to you is how difficult is this work and what is a ball park costs??
Hi,my mechanic tells me to empty fuel tank when in storage for 7 months im in the northeast,,,then fill in spring,,,and whatever water in tank will burn off,,,his thing is its better to have new fuel,,than fuel thats been sitting for 7 months??? what do you think??? its a aluminm tank 160 gallons,,,,,,my other question is i have a 93 johnston 225 outboard rebuit less than 20 hrs on it,,,,,a fuel restriction alarm goes off at 5,500 rpm then when i back off a little on the thottle it goes off runs great other than that is it safe to drive for rest of season until i take out of water for the season??? thank you you guys are great good to have,,,
What should RPM be at WOT on 1982 Trojan F32 with Chrysler 250 hp motors? I checked my props and they are 16 x 16 which from what I have been able to gather is OK but cannot get over 3200 RPM and boat struggles to get 15 knots. Motors seem like they are laboring
Good Morning, My exhaust hose on a 85 hp Ford Lehman had been "jury rigged" to reduce ( by putting a hose inside a hose inside a hose) from 2 1/4 at the muffler to 1 3/4 at the overboard. the reduction was on the outboard side. My question is, if I put a silicone reducer at the muffler to a 1 3/4 flexible exhaust hose (needed to U shape the hose for the siphon) and then to a bronze couplings of 1 3/4 on the hose on the outboard side, will the pressure be tolerated by the engine at the reduction point. It had been running with the reduction point being max 3' from the muffler before. Thank you. Debra
i have not used my boat for 3 years i had the outboard winterized last time i used it how often do i need to do this again if i dont use the boat for a few more years
I have a 2004 Formula 31pc with twin Mercruiser 6.2 MPI Serial # owo01683 & owo16834. I'm planing on adding a closed cooling system. I am getting some crazy price's in the $11,ooo.oo range. This includes changing the ECM units. Is there a ceaper way or am I stuck with this price. Thank You Chris Zafiris
I have a 1989 SeaRay 300 Siundacncer with twin Mercruiser 350 magnum MPIs. Boat was re-engined in 1998 and both now have about (only) 450 hours on them. Both engienes ran perfectly. Starboard engine always starts with one turn of the key. Port engine will start but seems to have a flat spot either in the relay(s) or bendix drive. Click, click, click, (smetimes many times) but then it eventually catches and starts. Now, after having been away about 6 weeks, I returned to the boat and the starboard engine, as always, started instantly. Port engine cranks and cranks but.......nothing. Tried an several occasions, i.e., damp and rainy, clear and sunny, over last few days. Still nothing. Sounds like either fuel or electrical. hard to test for a sparkm since I am by myself and can't be at the helm starting key and in the engine compartment at the same time. I suspect fuel is the poblem, and i recall replkacing the water-separating spoin-on cartridge pretty recently. Could it be the separator filter causing the engine to do....nothing??>? Is there another (fuel) filter somewhere that I'm missing? Is there a fuse or breaker that I'm missing, e.g., fuel pump, injectors, etc? ECM failure - is it likely or possible but not likely? For the life of me, I can't find any central location for the fuses/breakers on this engine. Are they "buried" somewhere or am I just missing them in plain view? Can I remove and dump the fuel filter, re-add fresh fuel and reinstall? Or should i just replace the filter with a new one.Might this work? Any ideas? Thanks, Bob Dienes
I have a 2004 merc.60hp bigfoot outboard.Was wondering how often should you have to add oil to the reservoir on top of motor? I might have maybe a total of 6 hrs on motor since i got it.Does it use it up quickly? Is that for the gas-oil mixture? The times I've checked it seemed to be ok.
my exhaust bellow has a hole in it. Can i get the rest of the season out of it without harming anything. The other 2 bellows look good. I plan on changing all 3 at the end of the year. This is on a alpha one out drive.
We have a diesel fuel problem & I read Don's article on fuel polishing. There's no access hatch on our tanks so they cannot clean the tanks out. Is it worth polishing the fuel without scouring the tanks? Can we just keep changing filters to avoid problems? Appreciate your input! Hans Frei
Don, Volvo TAMD 40B will not shut down with key. I am looking for suggesttions as to the likely culprit. ignition key, relay or ? The key seems to operate fine. The boat sat unused in 2011 but this has action has happened before but moving the key afew times managed to shut the engine down. had to shut the fuel off today to stop the engine. Any advise would be helpful. Thanks
Don, I'm about to buy a 1973 starcraft aluminum 16' boat. and have a 2005 - 25hp 3cylinder 4stroke johnson outboard. is there enough power to get on plane ? with 2 pass.? I dont need to go 30 mph. appreciate your input. Bob
I have a 1998 Four Winns FS, open bow. I am having trouble when putting oil into it. The tank looks to be empty but when I put the oil in through a funnel it lets me put about a quart in it when it starts backing up out of it. I had my marina look at it and they said there really wasn't anything to do except replace tank. I was wondering if there was some product that could be used that could clear up the issue.
I have a 20' 1977 Formula with a 260 merc io. The ignition has a external resister coil and a mallory points distibutor. I keep buring out the coil. I have checked the voltage drop after the resistor and it's at 8 and it's 12 before. The engine will run with a new coil for about 1 1/2 hrs and that's it. Could there be some kind of back feed to the coil from the distribor and short/grounding issue? I'm really baffled. Thanks Tom
in the august/september issue of boatus magazine, your tech files article recommends changing engine oil twice a year if the boat is seasonal wouldn't it make sense to just drain it when you quit using it and then refill it when you start using it?
I have 1985 Bayliner with a Volvo 260 engine that has a 14V 50 AMP alternator that I need to replace or have rebuilt. Any suggestions ?
We have a '93 Chris Craft with an OMC Cobra outdrive. Starting late last summer the alternator belt broke. We replaced it and that one broke also. Since then we have had a new alternator and several belts replaced only to have the belt brake once again. The alignment has been checked by two marine mechanics and was found to be in line. They have tried without success to find out why the alternator belt keeps braking. This latest one lasted a week before braking. It is frustrating to say the least. What else should we look for that would cause the belts to brake? Thank you for any assistance you can offer. Rick Carson
I have a 1987 BaylinerTrophyHardtop with a 5L OMC I have replaced the interrupter switch The ovestroke switch and the ESA (electronic shift assist module) With the above components plugged in the boat will not go over 2500 rpm without breaking up the shifting is considerably easier. With the connector disconnected to the ESA the boat revs correctly under load gets up on plane and idles well but shifts hard. My mechanic is stumped The carb points plug wires and plugs ignition coil have all been replaced as have all fuel lines/filters I have a new shift cable to replace at fall haul out. Any thoughts? I sure could use one. Thanks for your consideration John Simonds
how to change flax on 1975 trojan 26 ft, v8 360 hp. rudder?
Hi Don, I have a 2005 sea ray sundancer 260 with a 350 MAG BRAVO 3. It has 374 hrs in fresh water, has always been dealer maintained and kept indoors in winter. The oilpan seal has been replaced twice. Once under waranty at 131 hrs (july 2007) and last month at 376 hrs(july 2012). The boat is not under waranty anymore (had bought an extended waranty that ended in may of 2011) and the bill is about 1500$. Is it normal for the engine to leak oil so frequently,and thus have to change the oil pan seal as often? Thank you for your advice and insight... Marc-André Casault
I have a Yamaha 250 HPDI and the upper seal on the tilt trim unit is starting to leak a little due to slight corrosion on the piston. I know I will need to change the piston and seals. I want to check the oil level, Do you check it in the up or down position?
i have a 2000 searay with 350 mag engines. while servicing the engines(changing oil oil filers and fuel filters) upon starting and priming fuel supply engine died. upon starting engine again serpentine belt starting to scream,engine shut down by operator. belt removed and engine started again and seemed normal.raw water pump removed and found to be bound up. internal inspection of pump revealed no damage. installed new pump kit(plastic cover,thrust plate and rubber impeller)all seems normal at this time.not sure why this happened.do you think a lack of water might have caused problem?
I have a question about fuel additives and fuel stabilzers. I noticed that Boat US has several advertisements of fuel stabilizers and fuel additives to combat the ever growing problem of the ethanol in our fuels. I do attempt to obtain non-ethanol fuel when close to my home port, but it is not always obtainable when I am cruising along the west coast of Florida. Has Boat US ever completed a non-biased testing of the many fuel additives that claim to combat the ethanol in our fuels? I watched a local program called "Ship Shape TV" at one point, where two different fuel additives were compared. The problem I noted was that one was a sponsor of the program and he compared his additive, to the "Red" (regular) formula of Sta-Bil..and not the "Green" (Marine) formula. I just dont think this was a fair comparison. The "Marine Formula" is supposedly designed to combat ethanol, where the standard formula is just a fuel stabilizer. Boat US utilizes several sponsors of fuel additives, needed advertising for the magazine I know, but where do we begin to know what additive is really helping our engines...or is just fluff for the advertisement money.
I have a 2003 Suzuki 140 engine with a trim and tilt indicator. The indicator has stopped working and shows in the far down position. I suspect it is probably the sender unit, which must be on the engine --- somewhere. The question is where it is located, how to identify it, what causes one to stick and how do I solve the problem. Thanks for your help. Evan Evans
Dear Don, I have a 1995 Mercury Black Max 175hp [carb] engine. The engine runs great and always has. I like to pride myself by being more of a preventive mechanic than waiting for things to happen. I am always adept in fluid, grease and filter changes and all other requirements needed. My concern is the operating running temp for this engine. The waterpump and thermostats were recently replaced. However my question to you is as follows. What should my temp be during normal operating procdures? The temp guage reads 160 to 170 when running warm. It gets cooler when speed is increased. Even though it is still in the green and doesn't overheat I would have thought it should operate more in the 140 to 160 range. I may be paranoid but I would respect your opinion. Thank You Roy Robitel
Don, I have a 2000 Honda 115hp 4 stroke engine. This engine runs smoothly in smooth water. When cruising between 3600 rpm and above and I hit a wake or rough water the engine imediately loses 800 t0 1000 rpm then imediately comes back to the original set rpm. I've checked the spark plugs and spark plug wires and they all seem to be ok with no apparent loose connections. I've checked with 3 local Honda dealers and they say they have never run into this problem. I think it has to be an electrical sys. or gas feed problem. Don't have a clue how to trouble this problem or what it might be.
Hello Mr. Casey, We are need of some professional advice. We have a 1996 Sea Ray Sundancer 290 with twin 4.3LX V-6's that we are having issues with. Here is our story. We were out on Lake Michigan this weekend when the storms rolled into town and forced us off of the lake. On the way back to port, one of our 4.3LX mercruiser started to act up. The temp gauge went to 220 degrees and then quickly right back to 130 degrees. It did this three or four times then the alarm rang out and that motor shut down. I am a really handy person so I took it into my own hands to diagnose. I am pretty sure that the raw water impeller failed, but I have never seen a gauge bounce around like it did. So I checked and replace the two temp senders with new. Then checked the circulating pump, which seems to be in good shape. Then we tried to turn the motor over, it started, but it ran poorly. So I did a compression test and what I found was the right 3 cylinder of the motor was good around 150 psi per cylinder. Then when I tested the Left 3 Cylinder I found signs of water. With all three plugs out of the left side we turned the motor over and water shot out of the spark plug holes like a fountain. At this point I believe I have bad head gasket. The thing that is weird to me is that there are no signs of water in the oil. I assume I need a new head gasket, hopefully not a cylinder head and need to replace both of the raw water pump impellers to prevent the same thing from happening to the starboard motor. Do you agree? Do you think I am on the right track with my diagnoses? Do you have any idea how much this should cost? Thanks, Jake Rodts
My 2007 mercruiser 3.0 has a rusted oil pan and is leaking oil. Is it typical for an IO to have this problem when it is only 4 years old? I trailer the boat, keep it covered and take good care of it.
Hello, I've searched the archive but didn't find anything directed towards my issue. I have a 2004 Mercury 115 Saltwater outboard that runs wonderfully. I have religously flushed the motor after every trip and except for the past 5 years, I would always run it in freshwater very 5th or 6th saltwater trip. I flush it using the earmuffs as well as the upper hose within the engine compartment. Recently I have noticed the thermostat "exit" line has been sluggish to have water coming out of it and sometimes not at all which has me concerned. It used to squirt water pretty hard and it was always very hot. I've read various forums and have seen different approaches, what would you recommend I do to get her back where she was? I have not done anything yet to include sticking a strand of mono up the line to clear anything. - Thank You.
Hi Don. Question about the oil by-pass hoses on a 1996 5.7 LX 250 Sundancer. The hoses are leaking right at the compression fitting center at the brass fitting and the pipe. I don't want to have to buy new hoses if I can repair them. I was thinking of using either apoxy or marine tex. What would you suggest? Thanks, Doug
Don this question has probably been asked before. I tried to search your archive but it's so big I didn't get nearly through it. I know others have had the same problem. My Mercurser Alpha 1 has a "shift interrupt" which momentarily shorts the coil to ground when shifting into or out of neutral from either forward or reverse. For many years now, the interrupt has been staying open a fraction too long and it kills the engine. This can happen during any shift evolution but normally happens when going from a gear into neutral, and invariably (and maddeningly) almost always when I'm trying to dock the boat. I've become so used to this that my docking evolutions are now mostly slow-speed controlled crashes because the engine stalls at "final approach" with no time to restart and correct. I've had sterndrive "professionals" look at it and they make minor adjustments to the shift cable mechanism. It often works while they're there (and it's usually OK while I'm testing it tied up at the dock) but as soon as I get into another critical maneuver it cuts out again - almost like it knows when I most need control and then it stalls! This engine cut-out seems like such a stupid system I'm sure not all outdrives use it. Any thoughts how I could correct it?
Sir i have a Carver Santigo with twin mercury 454`s engines my port engine when i check the oil was a little milky. Does that mean my engine is shot, or can it be fix.
Own a 1995 Proline walkaround 25' with 2 Johnson 150hp oceanrunners. The boat has always got out of the hole very quickly with plenty of power. The last time out 1 motor starts fine, runs at proper tempature at idle. Now going on plane takes a much longer time and that one motor runs cold at high speed. It seems not to run on all cylinders but does not run rough. I checked the limit switch that cuts 3 cylinders when shifting into reverse and it is ok. I thought maybe it was not getting enough fuel but it should kill or miss. The battery is charging and the tach is showing correct rpm so I don't think it is the regulator/rectifier or electronics. Help.
Re powered my 23ft walk around sea pro with a 5.7 ltr v8 three yes ago. When put away last yr, it ran perfect. Now when I punch the throttle at 4100 rpm's and 30mph ( about an inch and one half throttle left) the engine sputters, chokes, and back fires. You should note that the engine came with a holly carb. My marina is scared to death to touch this issue as they claim that holly carbs are too hard to fix. I Added stabile and ethanol additive and the engine runs great until a load is put on it. It also has all new filters and plugs- please help one frustrated boater- thanks, jeff
¿I have a 2003 Formula Fastech 382 with Mercury Racing HP525's and Mercury Bravo XZ drives. The starboard drive failed after about 155 hours and the port drive failed about 10 hours later. The boat has never been raced, and I installed drive showers shortly after delivery (8 hours) to help keep the drives cool. Am I the most unlucky man on the water, or are there known issues with the XZ drives?
My Mercruiser 4.3L Alpha engine won't stay running. It will start, run for a few to maybe 15 seconds after pumping the throttle control during start up and then die. I think it is the fuel pump as I have already changed the water separating fuel filter with no results. I checked the wiring plug-in for the fuel pump with my multi-meter today and didn't show any voltage with the key on or off. Is there an in-line fuse that I don't know about? I plan to take the fuel line off the pump and crank the engine over to see if fuel is being pumped out next but am puzzled by no voltage in the wiring (battery has 12.5 volts). It was running great until I took the battery out of the box recently when I dropped a wing-nut and had to get the battery out to retrieve the nut. Could I have shorted out a fuse or relay by unknowingly hitting a hot wire while taking the battery out and then back in? The other systems work on the boat. Any other suggestions on things to check?
I need my gas tank cleaned. Do you know any reputable company in NJ that cleans boat gas tanks at a reasonable cost? Thank you.
I had a problem with the steering pin on my 496 mag/bravo 3. It is in a 2008 Crownline CR270 w 330 hrs. The pin is made from regular metal and rusted. It then destroyed the seal making my boat leak. Mercury said sorry out of warantee. It cost over $2000 to repair. I cant imagine they're not all leaking. I replaced it with a now avalible stainless steel pin. How could the engineers at Mercruiser be so stupid? Have you seen this before? Is there any recourse you know of?
I own a 29 Blackfin SF that has a fresh water hot water system. The water is heated by a heat exchanger from the port engine, I never use the electric heating element. Each fall I undue the fresh water intake and outlet lines and connect them together with a "U" tube. I then run the antifreeze thru the entire water system. The hot water tank is then drained. This method keeps the antifreeze out of the tank. My question is: can I run the engines with the tank NOT having any water in it. I really don't need hot water.
I recently purchased a very well kept (indoor stored) 2007 19.5 Sea Ray Sport with a Mercruiser I/O. I wanted to keep it in the water - I have access to a salt water dock -- but could not figure out how to flush the engine with fresh water while the boat was docked. So, I joined a marina which flushes the engine after each use (for a fee of course), and then stores the boat on a rack. The marina service office has suggested that I have them install a "flush kit" on the Mercruiser engine, which will then enable me to flush the engine compartments that sea water may otherwise remain in when the bost is not in use. I spoke with another boat authority who said I'd be better off with a boat lift to raise the boat out of the water after each use, thereby facilitating my flushing the engine and generally cleaning the boat. Another boater recommended a fleible floating docking station which get the boat a few inches above the water line and similarly make access to the boat for flushing and cleaning easier. In both of these last recommendations -- and in marina storage -- the boat is out of the salt water when not in use, but the convenience of having the boat at the dock I have access to vice the marina is a significant issue. Here is my question: What do you think of the idea of the marina installing an engine flush kit (for $650) to facilitate flushing with fresh water, or do you recommend the lift or floating dock instead?
Is there anything that will help extend the life of a sterndrive's bellows? Spraying with a silicone spray? Armor All? Some other particular product?
Hi Don, I own a 1979 mainship trawler with a 160 hp perkins diesel engine. I just put the boat in the water and went from dry dock to my marina in ohio e55st marina about a 1/2 hr ride. The boat ran ok for aprox 1/3 of the way at full throttle. then all of a sudden the engine was picking up and slowing down. off and on. It never quit but it is not a good feeling in lake erie at 49 degrees in the fog. The engine has aprox 1,800 hrs on it. I replaced the fuel filters last year and changed the oil last year. I also put in additives in the fuel tanks when she went into dry dock. Do you have any suggestions , Thank's Bob R.
AT THE END OF LAST SEASON I RAN THE GAS TANK DOWN. WHEN I WENT TO RESTART AFTER FILLING UP APPROX. 3/4 WITH GAS THE MOTOR WOULDN'T START. AFTER RUNNING DOWN BATTERIES AND CHECKING FUTURE FOUND OUT THERE WAS WATER IN THE GAS. WHAT WILL BE THE BEST WAY TO CORRECT THIS. STORED THE BOAT FOR THE WINTER AND ADDED STABLIZER TO THE GAS AT THAT TIME. THANKS, BOB IN NORTHERN VIRGINIA
I have aluminum poer-fishing baot with two Iveco turbodiesel engines and ZF220IRM transmissions and straight shafts. Port side transmission is making chattering noise at idle. I was told that reason is reverse gear engagement. Transmissions are fully counterotating and on this particular model rear gear chaters. Otherwise the boat and transmissions are runing OK as soon as rev increases. I inspected transmissions at ZF New Orleans and they did not find any problem. Please let me know the reason for chatter. Thanks Zlatko
Hello Don, I am trying to find information about the stuffing boxes on our 2003 Mainship 430 trawler. Cast in to the stuffing box are the letters "FTS". I assume this is the brand but have been unable to locate any information on them. The only info I could find was an old post from 2005 on another message board the did show a picture of these in a 36' Lurhs and the post stated that they were told these stuffing boxes had a plastic ring in them rather than traditional packing. There was no additional info given and before I service them I'd like to have more info. Any assistance or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Bill Forrestall
Hi Don, I have a 15' Whaler with a 60HP Merc, 2007 model with power tilt/trim. I added a trim gauge on dash, wired it to harness labeled (trim)under dash but get no movement of gauge when motor is tilted/trimmed. I can't find any sending unit at the motor for this gauge. Nothing shows on Merc parts list for a sending unit. What am I doing wrong. Thank you, Paul
I have a 1999 Pleasurecraft 351 Ford engine, with Osco manifolds. that I want to convert to Freshwater cooling, what size heat exchanger & bracket would I need? Does the thermostat housing & water pump need to be changed? Thanks.
I would like to know if there is a best gas additive i.e. ValveTect,Biobor etc. I would like to protect my engine from the harm ethanol can cause. I presently own a 1979 Sea Ray Sundancer. Thank you for any info you can give me. Tim Topham
I'm new to sailing and recently purchased a 1983 Jeanneau Fantasia with an inboard Yanmar diesel engine. What fuel do you recommend? Low sulfur highway at most gas stations (I use in my pickup), or off-road high sulfur? Thank you.
I have a 1979 Bayliner with a Volvo Penta 260A, the engine only has 300 hours on the rebuild and runs great. Under No load the engine throttles up to 3500-4000rpm no problem, however I noticed last year towards the end of the season that it took more and more throttle when under a load to get it up to 2800rpms. Now I'm at full throttle under load and it will only go up to 2400rpm. Prop,sterndrive and trim tabs seem to be fine. Any suggestions???
I have an 11 year old out board 2 stroke engine with about 850 hours salt water use(Long Island Sound) on it; it ran well at at end of 2011 fishing season, but I have my doubts. How do I test it to see it it has any life left? What should be tested(i.e. compression?) What do you recommend about testing the gas tanks on the boat to which this outboard is attached? How about the fuel lines? thanks so much Ben Rosin
I need to know how to determine what size flax is needed for the stuffing box female nut and now many rings of flax are needed in the female nut.
Dear Don, I own a 1983 36'Carver Aft with 450 cursadars engines. I have been having trouble keeping them running at low idle after our running for an hour or more. I can't keep them running while trying to get into my slip one will die out and I can restart it but then the other will do the same I never know which one will die out first but it happen most of the time after getting them hot. But I can't seem to keep them going without putting more power than needed to manuaver into my slip and shift. I had the boat yard tune up both, with new filters and plugs but has not helped. Some one suggested it was heat related so I ran with the engine hatch opened but that did not help. I have fresh fuel and new fuel pumps and she runs like the wind out at sea but this is driving me cazy and has been happening for several years now. Any ideas. Thanks Bob Ecker
Hi Don, I have a 1986 24' Sea Ray with a 350 Chevy Mercruiser. Had a problem last year that has me stumped! Twice while running out on Lake Erie, the engine just stopped dead, and it acted as if the battery had been disconnected. (All gauges, froze in the place they were in while running, and NOTHING electrical would work. Checked the battery connections and all were good & tight, and not the least bit corroded. Moved the shift lever back & forth, tried the ignition switch many times, and still nothing. While sitting there contemplating calling BoatUS for a tow, kept trying the ignition switch many times, when suddenly it started. Run normally until we just got into the channel when she died again. Again, after many attempts, she started and got us into our dock. Shut it off many times, and it always restarted. Was told by a fellow boater that it might be a wiring harness near the top of the engine, and to start the engine, wiggle the harness, and see if that killed it. (Didn't seem to be the problem, as I couldn't replicate the situation.) Do you have any ideas on what might cause this problem, and what I might try to remedy it? (We didn't use the boat out on Erie again, as it was very unnerving when it happened, especially when entering a rock lined harbor!) Any thoughts on what might be going on here? Thank you for any help you can give me. Ron Wiseman firstname.lastname@example.org
good morning i have a 1979 29 ft c craft with a 350 inboard i went and the boat has extreme vibration and wont plane it felt as i was dagging anchor please help
I have a 1987 Fourwins 215 Sundowner with a 5.7L Mercruiser, Alpha One that I have owned for 15 years. Over the last 2 years there has been an increasing ping/knock/click noise developing in the engine, especially audible during idle up to 1.5K RPM. At the same time it seems to run OK during high RPM of 3K to 4K. Is this noise possibly caused by the increased ethanol content in the gasoline? If not the ehtanol, what do you suspect and suggest. I am in So CA and the current ethanol rating is 10%. Bob
I have 1990 2755 Bayliner Sunbridge with a 5.7L Mercruiser and I have been seeing oil in the bilge. I have removed the manifolds and risers to replace them and other things in the engine while I have it out of the water. I am wondering if this oil is coming from the oil pan and/or gasket and since I have removed quite a bit of things around the engine, should I pull out the engine and see about changing the oil pan. Can this be done without pulling out the engine? If not, do you know the level of difficulty of removing the engine? I've been trying to find the bolts that attach the motor to the hull and I only see 4, is this correct? I've already pulled out the outdrive to service it as well and am hoping you may have a step-by-step or a link to a site on how-to pull out an engine. Any help and/or advice will be very helpful. Let me know if you do or if I need to post more info for this.
OMC VRO pump multiple failures, etnanol fuel treated with stabilizer, dealer said not to use entanol fuel, is that the answer. I have a fuel filter / water seperating 10 micron cartridge. I have discontinued oil injection, but diaphram in fuel section had a hole in it. That was the last failure, dealer advised there was a repair kit available and did repair the pump, cost less than half of cost of new pump.Application is 1986 OMC Sea Drive 2.6l engine. Could there be another cause of these pumps failing , 3 in less than 100 operating hours. When the pump works the engine works well, will push 24ft Grady White Offshore to 27 mph, estimated 1000 # crew and gear on board. Any insight and/or recommendations would be appricated. Thanks G Lewia
Last year I purchased a 1984 Tiara Pursuit 2700, it has twin 305 c.i.d 225 hp Volvo Penta inboards. I was told when I purchaed it that the starboard engine had been rebuilt and it has beenrunning fine. The problem is with the port engine, during the season I was having fl problems (filters getting clogged with sediment) that has been taken care of. The problem is at the end of the season I would ave to move the throttle way past the starboard throttle in order to achieve the same RPMs. Is this an indication that I need to have the port engine rebuilt? If so is it better to have the existing engine rebuilt or should I have a remanufactured engine installed. These engines have about 850 hours o them. Could the fuel filter being durty cause this, that would be the easiest fix. Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide.
I have only 140 hours on my 2005 Doral Monticello, Volvo-Penta 5.7 GXi.The spark plugs are original and the engine runs fine. Should I consider changing them as they have been in the engine going on 7 years? The engine is properly winterized (oil and filters changed and fogged) although the plugs have never been removed. Thanks you.
I have a 30 foot 1988 Sundancer with two GM 260 V8s; I have upgraded the engine shift cut off switches to the push button type. However, when at low rpm, when I shift, most of the time the engines will die. This always happens while docking. I have researched the web; I have Merc service manuals, and have adjusted the switch per instructions; but to no avail. Thanks for your help. Don
At some point, I'm sure i got some sand or mud drawn into the water intake of my outdrive. will running at full speed in clean fresh water flush it out?
I have a 1988 36' Jersey Yacht with a 8kw Universal genset with a Universal deisel engine the govenor needs replacing.I have contacted Westerbeke who bought Universal and they told me the governor is no longer available.Do you have any idea where I might locate a new,used,or rebuilt one?
Two questions: 1. Sea Ray 340 with Mercury Smartcraft System View - what does the system view fault/alarm "Ambient Temp CKT High mean"? Anything to worry about? 2. When it rains (about 1 inch) the Sea Ray 340 bilge has a approximately a gallon of water in it. Is this normal for this boat? Where is coming in? Thanks!
I have a Merc 350 mag horizon mpi. pressurized the block and drained the seawater section. which hose or hoses do I pull to fill it with anitfreeze per the manual's direction? I know that FWC already has antifreeze in it, I'm trying to fill the seawater section. thanks. Mec 350 mag horizon mpi with Bravo III. pressurized the block and drained the seawater section. which hose do I pull to fill it with anitfreeze per the manual's direction? There are four hoses coming from the T-stat block, two on each side stacked on top of each other. The Merc manual says to add antifreeze but does not say exactly how to do this. the boat is on a lift so getting muffs is problematic. If I pour the antifreeze down the seastrainer I will also be pulling it saltwater from the outdrive, I would like to use the hose method like they do with fully raw water cooled engines. I know that FWC already has antifreez in it, I'm trying to fill the seawater section. thanks.
I need to know about draining my gas tank for an extented several year down time --due to my parents health---what about condensation ?? Do I need to add dry gas or something like that ? then,what about start up after the lay up ??
When changing a pencil zinc in the heat exchanger, in my case a Universal M-18 engine, should one apply pipe joint compound to the threads that twist into the heat exchanger? I know you should not use teflon tape, but is pipe joint compound recommended? If so, can it contain PTFE? Len
Don, I need to replace the (original) starter on my 1989 Volvo AQ271C (5.7L v8 GM). As I look around, there are many starters advertised as "Marine" certified with prices varying from $50 to $500+. Is there a tell-tale way to verify that the starter in question is truly ignition protected? Will there be an ISO or SAE stamp on it? I ask the reseller and am told "yes, it is ignition protected (or marine certified)" , but would like to have some concrete proof.
This year I purchased a 2000 Parker 2520 with a VolvoPenta 5.7GSi. I used it several times this fall with no issues. However, when I went to winterize the engine, it wouldn't start. I traced the problem to lack of fuel getting to the throttle body injectors which led me to the fuel pump. Assuming that the pump had just died I began to look on the internet for a new one ($700-$800) and then started to do some research. From what I have read in several forums, there appears to be an issue with these particular fuel pumps. These people are reporting that the paint is flaking off the inside of the housing which holds the fuel pumps. As the paint flakes off it plugs the screen on both the low and high speed pumps, therefore starving the pump of fuel. They are attributing this to the ethanol in the fuel breaking down the paint and causing it to flake off. My question's are #1-Have you heard of this issue before and if so, is VolvoPenta doing anything to correct it-even retroactively and #2-is there anything I can do to prevent this from reoccuring? I always add the recommended amount of marine formula Sta-Bil whenever I fuel the boat. BTW- I took the pump to my marine mechanic without telling him what I had read on-line. He took the pumps off the housing and imediately saw that all the paint was flaking off the inside of the housing and that the screens were plugged with paint flakes.
I have a 1986 Viking 35 with 454/350hp Crusader Engines. The port motor has a issue with chewing up belts. It starts slowly with fine belt dust appearing on the front of the motor. Then as the belt wears away it starts to shred and tears apart. (The belt is the belt from the crank pulley to water pump to alternator.)I have replaced the waterpump thinking it was possibly binding. The alternator spins freely so I feel thats not the problem. There is no visual burrs on any of the pulleys. The boat had Napa belts on it when I got it two yrs ago and after chewing up a few of them I replaced them with genuine crusader belts but it is still doing the same. The alignment seems to be a lil off but my starbord motor has the same alignment and its not chewing up its belt. I also looked at two other Vikings 1987,1986 with the same power and their belts are slightly off aligned as well. To completly align the alternator I would have to modify the bracket which would hurt the structural integrity. I was thinking of changing out the waterpump pulley and the alternator itself, but I was hoping before I keep throwing away money you may have a answer for me. Now the other thing I find interesting is that I located a whole bunch of spare belts on the boat. So I'm thinking this has been a problem for some time. I can't ask the original owner because he is deceased. Thanks John
I have a 2005 Stingray IO with a 135 HP Mercruiser that I bought earlier this year. There was a problem with the carburetor as it wouldn't idle, it would stall unless you kept giving it more and more gas. Anyway, my shop sent the carb out to a carburetor shop who rebuilt it. That fixed the initial problem but now if I run the boat for awhile and shut it off and then after 15-30 minutes try to restart it, it usually floods or will not start at all. My shop told me not to touch the throttle and just turn the key on - sometimes it won't start at all. If I do give it any gas at all, 50% chance it will flood and then the only way to restart is to hold throttle all the way open. My shop says this is normal with this motor. Any suggestions?
Motor: Honda 50 ,4stroke. Engine shuts down when triming engine downward. Happens only periodically. Engine restarts fine immediatly afterwards. Speed at occurance about 25mph. Second, is transom adjusting rod necessary on this engine. thanks
have a 1999 90hp yamaha an was wondering how to check the ignition kill switch?
I have a 2010--200hp Evinrude e-tec used weekends in Fla Keys. At the end of each weekend I store the boat by trailer and run fresh water through the engine. The engine installer recommends ear muffs but I read the water flow is not enough and therefore best to attach garden hose direct to hose attachment on rear in order to run water from top to bottom. Which is best?
I have a 1990 34'Wellcraft Gran Sport. The hull was damaged and re-fiberglassed. The struts, shafts and propellers were replaced with original sizes. However when they built up the bottom it lowered the shaft angle. I'm trying to find the proper or original propeller shaft angle before I attempt to fix the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Don, I have an older Bayliner with a Volvo AQ 260A outdrive(GM 350 engine). Prior to this year, the boat ran fine. However, it will not produce enough power now to get the boat on plane. The engine bogs down misfires or backfires if I try to accelerate under load. With the test hose attached in my driveway it runs fine and shows no sign of bogging at higher RPM. I do note that at idle it randomaly backfires (at least it sounds like that). I have replaced the fuel filters (there is an inline screen filter on the hose between the tank and the main filter, the main filter is a water seperating canister, and there is a bronze filter on the carb inlet). I have pulled the suction pipe out of the tank and made sure it is clear. The check valve seems OK. The compression checks good (about 160 lbs on all cylinders). The carb (a Holly 4 brl with vacuum secondarys) is about a year or so old and is spotless inside. The plugs, points, etc are all relatively new and in good condition. Vacuum tests steady at about 15" at idle. Timing is set at 8 BTC and the mechanical advance seems to be working OK. Fuel pump pressure is about 5 psi. I have yet to try to test it in the water under load. There is no indication of any fuel in the clear return line to the carb, so I am assuming the fuel pump diaphrams are still OK. (the fuel pump is probably the oldest item on the engine). The fuel is probably a year old and I have pumped out several gallons out of the bottom of the tank. The pumped out fuel runs my lawn mower fine with no loss of power. I am running out of ideas, since everything checks out and the engine starts on the fist crank always and runs well in my driveway, except for the occasional backfire(?) noise. I'm not sure it is a backfire it just makes an occasional bang noise and seems to skip a beat. Could it be my old fuel, or is there something else I should be looking for? Thank you for any ideas. -- Jim
Don, I have read a lot of articles in your mtrailering magazine and Seaworthy. I always read them cover to cover. My question is E10 winterization. I have a 2006 21ft Steiger Craft with a 124 gallon gas tank. I have always followed the advice in your magazine and filled the tank to 95% and add stabilizer. This has also been the recomendation of my marina. This year when I mentioned this to them the said that filling the tank was old school and they now recommend that you leave it a quarter full and fill it with 93 octane in the spring. This left me very confused. To compound my confusion the article in the latest Bout US Trailering "Putting it Away" has now mention of how to store the fuel. This leads me to beleive something may have changed. please advise. Thanks Larry Wiles
I have a 2006 Four Winns Horizon 180 with a 3.0l Penta. The flywheel ring gear lost a tooth. I need to replace. Can I disconnect and slide the engine forward to get to the housing/flywheel, or do I need to pull the outdrive and pull the engine out completely? I've seen mixed info on the web, many say I can just disconnect, remove mounting bolts and slide forward. If so I can leave on my lift. Otherwise its tow to the ramp, borrow a trailer, etc. I heard Mecs you have to pull, but Pentas can slide forward.
history 1979 25ft chriscraft eng IO 350 direct drive .eng was ccw ,that makes wheel rotation CW looking at transom ,looking at transom rudder off center to port [left].I belive origina eng jack shaft ? now eng changed 350 standard rotation [CW] new wheel [prop], prop rotation now CCW , trans was corected !QUESTION:1 can i move rudder? 2 how? 3 whats basic steps 4 should i add glass & mat to new rudder loc prior to drilling .? are there any special precautions to be taken .like drill hole at 90 dgs to hull ! thank you this is my first time hope u have enough info to ans . HO reason for move no control of boat in reverse ,only goes to starbord due to rotation! what is rudder made of ?
This is so generic you may not find it relavent. I am looking for a small motor,4 stroke,electric start,power tilt to put on the back of my new Lund 16 foot open fishing boat. Various dealers have tried to sell me all kinds of junk but have not been able to tell me things like specs on emissions, sound levels, ease of winterization, fuel efficiancy, etc.. I have found that most dealers sell the 25hp merc. EFI with it but I suspect that is because Merc owns Lund. They also tell me to stay away from the 20hp merc. Does a publication exist that rates outboards the way "Consumer Reports" does automobiles??
Is it OK to store a small 2 stroke Merc outboard on it's head for the winter as long as you have stood it upright to drain the water?
I have a 1999 Mainship Pilot 30, Yanmar Diesel in excellent condition. Last week, on starting the engine, the alarm, on start up, would not shut off. It is a high pitched alarm. Can you tell me what the problem might be? Thank you, Bob Page
I have a 1997 mercury efi 150 engine that I recently had to put a new stator in. This was a $1000 repair that my mecanick told me happens to an engine as old as mine. Is there any routine maintenence that I can do to prevent this in the future?
I am installing new "freeze plugs" into my Westerbeke W46 engine block. One is a traditional looking cup shaped freeze plug, albeit only about 3/4 inch in diameter. The other is a convex disc about 2 1/2 inches in diameter that seals the aft end of the camshaft where it is supported in the block. They both are sealing off the oil passages of the engine rather than the coolant side. What is your advice regarding putting a little sealant (like some non-hardening Permatex) on these pieces before installation. I am chasing oil leaks after all and hope to not have to visit this area again anytime soon. Also, I wouldn't expect that they might need to blow out like they might on the coolant side. Thank You
I have a 1987 sea ray weekender, great condition, 400 hours, all original. Recently when trying to engage in either forward or reverse the engine stalls. Prior to this the more aggressive I was the less it stalled. Unfortunately we went out for one last senic fall ride before we store her for the winter (we live in NE Ohio) we could not get out of the dock, the motor continued to stall after 8-10 attempts. Frustrating! I was told there is a switch that controls this? Any advise or repair ideas welcome! Thank you and continue the great work! Love the magazine! Joe Lorenz Canton, OH
I have a 2000 bayliner with twin bravo 2 outdrives.The port drive has a noise when in neutral and gets louder when in gear. The noise seems to be constant when turning left or right. Could it be a u-joint? Thanks for your help.
I own a Carver 456 aft cabin model year 1999. I purchased this boat in 2002 and now have 400 hours on the 8.2 mpi mercruiser gasoline engines. Ever since I bought this boat I have had an occasional problem with the port engine stalling when shifting from forward to neutral. The engines were just recently tuned with new plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & ignition modules. The engines run fine at all rpm's and at idle in gear. The stalling occurs when shifting to neutral when docking. The techs at my marina do not have an answer. This problem poses a hazard in windy conditions. I carefully watch the tachs when shifting into neutral to see if the engine stays running. It always starts up immediately & comes back up to idle rpm of 625 - 640. Any ideas would be appreciated.
I have a problem with Crusader 5.7L throttle body injection engine. Problem is one injector is not firing when it should. My mechanic switched positions of the injectors in the throttle body, and the one that was not working before worked in the other position. Mechanic then took the ECM from other engine and moved it to engine with the problem, and problem still existed. He concluded from what he had done that the problem was in wiring from ECM to injector. He further diagnosed that the ECM was sending the firing command to the injector. Do I need to replace a wiring harness? Is replacing the whole harness necessary, or can I just replace a wire? Can I even buy the wiring harness? Thanks for all suggestions. Everett
I have a 1999 Chaparral Deck boat w/4.3 V6 Volvo Penta outdrive. Recently had water cooling problem and replaced circulation pump, impeller, thermostat, sender unit. At that time motor would run. Now it will not run. Seems its not getting any fuel. My question is: How do I tell if its the fuel pump, relay or something else? Can't afford to just keep replacing everything. Just spent over $3000 on this motor and outdrive. I'm not sure cooling system is working correctly. Your help would greatly be appreciated. I'm a real novice at this.
Mr.Casey I have a 1987Wellcraft Antiqua it has a 2002 350 mag mpi with a 2009 alpha 1 gen.1 2009 the marina pulled the motor then replaced couplar y-pipe inner and outer transome assy.new bellows gimbal bearing new upper and lower drive new prop since 2009 the boat was driven about 25 hrs I just pulled the out for winter the marina said the gimbal bering was shot also something broke off in housing tore a hole in one of the bellows.They are telling me that this happened because i drove the boat with the drive up. The boat is in fresh water lake can you tell me what realy happened? Thank you Mr.Casey
I have a 1997 200 hp Evinrude Oceanpro that runs fine. However, I have a lot of trouble starting it after it sits for several days. The prime bulb (recently replaced) is always soft and I must pump it for several minutes before it starts sucking gas. Could the problem be a vacuum leak in the engine or should I just replace the gas limes?
I have a 1996 Johnson 9.9hp 4 stroke outboard, It starts and runs fine for a few minutes and then starts to die, if we re-prime the bulb it will run fine for a couple of minutes and the same things happens again, I have it hooked up to the second fuel port on my Bayliner trophy fuel tank which has all new fuel lines ... I also have installed a new prime bulb and hose and new fuel pump. also put in a rebuild kit in the carb. It has me stumped as to why it loses prime? any help you can offer would be wonderful Thanks Rich
I have a 1998 Playbuoy pontoon powered by a 1998 Force (by Mercury marine) 50 hp ELPT. Yesterday my wife and I were cruising the ICW in 11 feet of water at approximately 15 MPH when suddenly the engine RPM's increased and the boat speed slowed to a stop. I turned the engine off and immediately did a visual check for prop damage, and found it to be in fine shape. There is no damage apparent that would make me think we contacted anythin underwater. I then checked for lower unit failure by turning the prop by hand. In neutral it spins freely in both directions. In forward it ratchets in the clockwise direction and locks in the counterclockwise direction. In reverse it is locked in both directions. We were able to creep back to our dock at 1600-2000 RPM at approximately 3 MPH. When I tried to increase speed by increasing engine speed the boat speed actually dropped like it was failing altogether. By lowering the engine speed to between 1600 and 2000 RPM again we were able to creep along. Any ideas you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Larry Davis
Don, I have a 2010 Nissan 8HP 4-stroke on a 10' inflatable that I frequently put in salt water on Saturday mornings, and then take it out of the water on Sunday nights. I put the motor on a motor stand to flush it in a bucket of fresh water and leave it on the motor stand until the next Saturday. Should I be flushing the motor on Saturday evenings, too? Does it possibly slow the corrosion process, in the cooling passages, if I leave the motor in the down position instead of tilting it up out of the water after I have tied the boat up for the night? I am suspicious that tilting the motor up drains the water out and lets air into the passages which might be worse than keeping the water in there. Sincerely, Angela Rarick
Hi Don, I'm getting ready to install a 3-way valve between the strainer and raw water pump on the engine. I've seen this before as a secondary bilge pump when in an emergency situation. Can you give me any guidance on what if any particular valve to use? And should any other changes be made to the cooling system and/or exhaust? Thanks, Ken
As we all know, some the hard way, ethanol blended fuels are a problem. In your June/July issue of BoatUS magazine, you had no fewer than five 1/2 page ads for ethanol fuel treatments. Some were from national brands and some from newcomers to the market. They all seem to make the same claim. Some are endorsed by boat builders and some by government agencies. It would be a great help if BoatUS would do some testing on these products to help its members determine what products live up to the manufacturers claims and which ones fall short. Nick Simone Bokeelia, FL Member since 1987
My 1989 starboard volvo 225E starts fine, won't idle but will run OK above 1200 RPMs. Port motor runs normal. I have 2 gas tanks and have run motors off each tank without change. Water separator is fine, I have cleaned the filter just before the carb a number of times, each time getting less dirt. Then I finally got into the filter/bowl before the pump and it was filthy. Everything seems clean now, but still won't idle. What should I look at next? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 1991 Grady White with 225 Yamaha been running fine all summer recently trailer the boat about 200 miles for vacation. The first day on the water went about a mile broke down and got towed back to the dock- no power- had it serviced, carb problems, got it back ran great, trailered back home, went out thefollowing weekend noticed that when the RPM's get above 3400 the motor surges and adjustment that was missed on sounds different and the power is down. My questions are does trailing have any effect? Could it be a carburetor adjustment? Or injectors again?
Hi Don, I have a seacock that feeds my generator water cooling pump with a 3/4 ID hose. Five of the six vanes on the pump are missing. Gen has 67 hours. I took the hose off the seacock and opened it and got just a dribble. Used an air tank and blew out the open seacock (heard the bubbles on the bottom of boat). Now i get a flow about an inch high from the end of the seacock pipe. Will that provide enough water for cooling the generator? Do I need to haul the boat and either replace or super clean the seacock? Boat is a 1986 Chris Craft 362 Catalina. Seacock appears to be original. Bottom was soda blasted clean about 5 years ago. Thanks, Steve
q: my 2005 ebbtide 2300 has a 5.7L 300 hp mag mpi engine. with 600 hrs. on it and a bravo 2 drive. it never visibly smokes, but i am seeing a slight darkening of the transom surfaces, a sort of faint black staining of the fiberglass on the exterior. this season it is more noticeable. i've had the oil and filter changed every hundred hours. what could it be?
Backstory: 1985 Regal Commodore 360 with twin mercruiser 7.4L and Velvet drive v-drive transmissions. The starboard engine is original with around 650 hours and appears to run fine. The oil pressure indicated around 40-50 psi and the temp stays at or below 120 (on the guage anyway) The port engine has been replaced by a previous owner with a 1994 (i think) 454 (its reverse rotation). When I purchased the boat it had what can olny be described as a knock. Most mechanics tend to agree that it apprears to be on the top of the engine rather than the bottom. The knock is not the issue however but it may be related. As the engine rpms rise on the engine, so too does the temp of the engine. At 2000 and below it hangs around 160 or just below 160 on the guage. If the engine rpm is increased (under load) as the bow rises and I engage the trim tabs to bring it down the temperature starts its rather rapid climb towards 180 and will continue if I don't back off the rpms. The oil pressure stays pretty close to 80 psi on the gauge and doesn't change much but it does fluctuate a little bit. I am looking for ideas on what to check. I did have a coolant leak in the heat exchanger but that was repaired. I have considered a partial blockage in the raw water lines but I have no idea how to go about confirming such a thing. The raw water pump impeller was replaced during the attempt to fix the knock. the mechanic thought replacing the cam shaft might help but it didn't. The power the engine produces seems to be in line with the starboard engine except that it doesn't seem to get the same rpms at full throttle. Another fact about the port engine is that the original fuel pump has been replaced with an electric (automotive style) fuel pump. I do realize I need to put the original type back. Question What can I check to find the cause of the overheating? Most people say the impeller but thats new, however, i realize it doesnt rule it out either. j
I have a 2001 fitch 250hp, after running it I see a small amount of gas that appears to be floating up from the lower part of the engine,(maybe from the prop exhaust?) I have had two different mechanics look at this several times and they can't find where this is coming from. This has been going on for 3 years and I'm at my wits & wallets end. Can you please help. BTW I don't smell gas in the bilge or under the engine cover when this happens. Thanks in advance. Wally
Last season, my boat had no power out of the hole and could not accelerate to plain. It ended up simply being the anti-siphon valve. Right now, I could bring up the throttle gradually to bring the boat to plain and WOT. However, when I bring it fast to get out of the hole, it dies like last year. It's a 5.7 Volvo GSIDP engine. I intend on replacing the valve again simply because it's cheap. Any other concerns or places to check?
Don, Did what you said I shouln't..turned the hose/and/or stuffing box inside when releasing stuffing box and nuts. Repacked the stuffing box with only one ring if flax, after trying to get old flax out, nothing showed. closed up everything no drip(had had to much drip and water in bilge so decided to repack the box. Now my question there is no drip, even with the packing nut completely backed off. Ran engine in gear at dock, nada. left stuffing box nut completely loose, nada. Tell me I don't have to pull the shaft or worse. In any event your suggestion will be more than appreciated. Boat 24' custom out of Lewis Bros. Harker Island.350chevy(MarinePOwer)1994
I have a 1998 Tiara Coronet w/twin Crusader 454XL/320hp (around 800hrs.). They have electronic Fuel Pumps that need some Oil Pressure before they start pumping fuel. I believe I have Rochester Cabs. PROBLEM: Both engines are very hard to start after not operating the boat for 5 or 6 days, especially the port engine. After the initial start of the day, I have no problems starting them. They start very quickly & run great. I think it's a fuel issue ... getting fuel to the caburetor. The Crusader Engine Owners Manual told me to crank the engines to develop Oil Pressure, then put the boat in gear (to disable the starter) and turn the key switch to "ON" for a few seconds to allow the fuel pumps to pump fuel to the cabs, but sometimes I flood the engines. What do you suggest? Thanks, Tom
Hi Don. Did submit question previously but when I used the bookmark below, your form Menu was displayed blank, no question or answer?? http://my.BoatUS.com/askexperts/doncasey/question.aspx?expertid=2&questionid=69437 Original question is that I have a 1989 4 Cyl Fresh water cooled Volvo. Ran great for the summer. Was left sitting until November. When I went to start up to pull for the Winter, engine turned over but didn't start. I pulled the engine cover off and went to start the engine again and had RAW Water commng out the Carb. Had boat towed and pulled out on my trailer. As an FYI I changed Oil & Filter, put oil in cylinders, sprayed Engine Store in Card for Winter. Any ideas as to what the problem is and what next steps are?? Would appreciate input. Thank you, Paul D. Maier PS - you could call me at 201-919-8365 in you want.
I have a 34'Catalina with a Universal M25XP diesel engine. The raw water pump frequently looses prime. This has occured when making a fast turnaround to change course when under sail and when crossing a large wake while under power. Today it lost prime when under power and moving forward. Once I reprime the system it runs just fine, sometimes for 3 or 4 outings. It sits in the harbor and never looses prime. Each time it looses prime I check the impeller and its OK. What can I do to correct this problem?
My Yahmaha 225 Four Stroke will start and run well, but after stopping the engine for and hour or so, it will run out of fuel. Squeezing the primer bulb, which I have replaced recently, gets us started and back to the dock. I do not have any water in the primary fuel/water filter, just put in a new one, and the engine filter with the red ring doesn't show any water. It appears that the fuel must some how drain back to the main tank. I have a full fuel tank, 100 gallons. What do I need to do to remedy this? It generally makes my passengers nervous.
Hi Don. I have a 1989 4 cyl Volvo AQ 131 fresh water cooled engine. When I went to take the boat out for the Winter last Fall, trying to start engine, I had Raw Water coming out the carb. I towed the boat out, changed the oil and put some oil in the cylinders for the winter. Do you have any suggestions as to where I should start to look at what or where the problem is? Appreciate any help. If you want to call me, my cell is 201-919-8365. Thank You, Doug Maier
I have a Westerbeke 44B Four engine. Last week the engine quit while motoring and I assumed it was a filter issue. I changed both the Racor and engine filter and cleaned the tank and polished the fuel. The engine started up and ran for quite awhile although it did not seem to have much acceleration, something I had noticed even before the engine quit.Letting it run for several minutes it would quit again. I am always able to start the engine back up only to have it stop again. This engine has automatic bleeding capabilities and seems to run long enough for any air to bleed out. At this point I am not sure where to go without starting over and going through the fuel system again. As I mentioned the boat did not seem to have the same acceleration as it should even before this event and this was only the second time we have been out this season. Any advise will be appreciated. Thanks so much Peter Whiting
I own 1988 Wellcraft 26' Nova Spyder with twin 330 hp 454s with Bravo 1 outdrives. It was near mint condition with no major work when I purchased it in 1997. I noticed at that time several small (approx. 3 inches long) gauge steel twisted wires which would terminate on each end between major components of my motors and outdrives. For instance between the motor and inner transom metal mountings, between the outer transom metal mountings and the upper of the outdrive. Probably 4 of these per engine/outdrive. As major motor works were performed, these connects were no long reconnected. I use my boat in saltwater 2 to 3 weeks per year; otherwise, remains on Lake Lanier, GA. Two years ago both engines needed replacement because corrosion caused cooling water to leak into the piston cylinders. Was this corrosion accelerated from the lack of those small steel cables grounding out electrolysis type corrosion because they were no longer connected as they were by the manufacturer? Thank you for your time (sorry I can not describe better the parts between which these small cables connect - please feel free to call me 770-533-1503). Brian Otte Gainesville, GA
Boat: Four Winns Horizon 180 Engine: Volvo Penta 4.3GL I connected the battery cables incorrectly, resulting in sparks, and a small "puff" of smoke. I corrected the condition; however,the engine would not start. 1. All fuses have been checked-ok. 2. Condition of battery has been checked-ok. 3. Engine turns over but does not start. Did I potentially damage something? Thanks for your help. Peter
I have an '86 Bayliner Capri with a Volvo 5.0L and aluminum tank. I haven't used it since last summer. I left it with a half tank of gas on the trailer in Palm Springs, CA all winter. I've done this every year since I bought the vessel in '02. This week I couldn't get any fuel to the carb. so I bought a fuel pump, installed it and filled up the tank, but with the new pump the fuel seems to flow intermittently. At first the new pump didn't seem to work at all, then eventually I got the engine running. It ran for 20 min and then at 2K rpm it died and would not re-start (no fuel in the float bowl / accelerator pump). Could it be my new pump from Sierra? My fuel filter canister is full.
Hi Don, I recently purchased a 32 Gulf Pilothouse 74' I need to replace the zincs.....where are they? I know one is on the prop. shaft .... The cables from the throttle and the gears are hard to move. How do I address this... lubricate or ...? Thanks for your help. Paul
Don, I have a 1995 Carver 355 aft with 454XL Crusader engines. They are throttle body injected with around 650 hours. The engines start right up and run well. The problem that I have is when I am rafted up for 2-3 hours, neither engine will start until I remove the engine covers and let the engine compartment cool down for 15-20 min. I am running my genset the whole time. The temp in the engine compartment is around 115 deg. That does not seem to be hot enough to cause start problems or vapor lock. Do you have any ideas as to what might be causing the problem. (All filters have been replaced and gas is fresh. New plugs and distributor caps and rotors).
I have a 1999 150hp Yamaha. I was wondering if there is a device that i could put on this motor that would allow me to attach a water hose to flush after use in salt water and not have to run the motor. Thank you. Myron
1 have an evinrude 88 special outboard. oil in lower unit was fine last year, went to change it this afternoon getting boat ready and had water in oil, mixed. gears and shifting are fine. how big a job to fix? how much? i changed lower unit oil, ran for little while to mix. can boat be run for a couple of hours before repairs are done?
Sir, On May 30th, 2011 I submitted a problem seeking your assistance or advice and as of yet I have had no acknowledgement as to whether or not you have received my request or suggestions as to my problem fix. Please respond Thank you Wayne W. Zenk email@example.com
WHERE IS THE TRANSMISSION OIL ENETER THE TRANSMISSION HOW MUCH OIL IS THERE IN A ENGIN MERCRUISER,260 HP,1989
We have a 1984 Carver Mariner 33 with orig. 270 crusader FWC engines, 700 hrs., compression is no less than 150 psi on both; the props are orig. 19X18, 4 blade props; raw-water pumps both replaced as well as exhaust risers; belts and hoses replaced; timing is factory setting with delco electric distributors; both engine temperature senders have been replaced; no sign of steam at tail pipes; and sea strainers are clean and hull scraped and clean; - BUT a continuous overheating problem when run above 1500 rpm's. Don't know where to go from here so any suggestions would be extremely welcome. Thank you. Duane Willoughby, Hudson, Fl.
I have a 2002 Four Winns 18' Fish'n Ski with the 4.3 GL-A engine. When the engine is cold it starts normally, but after running a while--trolling especially--after I shut it down it will not start again for 5-15 minutes. There is nothing when I turn the key--not even a click. After waiting, It cranks and starts just fine. My mechanic says it must be an electrical part that is overheating since nothing else will re-set automatically. Any clues?
I have a 2001 Cruisers Yachts 3470 Express Cruiser with twin 6.2 liter engines and "V" drives. The boat was purchased used in 2005 with 40 hours on the engines. When taking delivery it was noted the starboard engine would stall when shifting at idle speed. The situation was noted by the dealer and cursory inspection revealed no abnormality. During the 18 hour trip to my new home port the engines ran fine at operating speed but the starboard engine continued to stall when shifting at idle speed. After five years, four mechanics and significant dollars expended the situation has not been resolved. Initially the IAC motor from the port engine was switched to the starboard side, the fuel supply checked, fuel filters replaced and a computer scan performed. Supposedly the fuel supply was low so the fuel pump on the starboard engine was replaced. This service was performed at the local marina with the assistance of the local authorized MerCruiser dealer. The situation persisted so the next year the engines were scanned again, the timing re-set, the distributor cap and rotors replaced, and the OEM four bladed props exchanged for smaller three bladed props; the thought being the original props were too heavy and when shifting from idle would cause the engine to stall. This seemed to resolve the problem for awhile but then the problem returned. Another significant expenditure with no fix. A news mechanic performed most of the same procedures as before; ran compuiter scan, checked codes, set timing, cleaned and checked IAC motors, replaced plugs, swapped ECM's and adjusted the base idle screws in an attempt to stabilize the shift rpm. In addition the vacuum was checked and the intake manifold gasket on the starboard engine was replaced which helped for a short period. The situation persists. More frustration; and on to a new mechanic. This mechanic was convinced the ECM was causing the problem so the starboard ECM was sent for analysis and reprogramming. No change. Still convinced the ECM was defective, a new MEFI 3 conversion kit was recommended. At considerable expense this was purchased and installed with no change. After considerable tinkering the temperatgure sensors to the ECM's were disconnected on both engines. A sea trial was performed and both engines shifted and performed without stalling when leaving an returning to the dock area. New temperature sensors were installed thinking the originals were bed. No change. Stalling at idle has now started to become a problem in the port engine also. Repeated attempts were made to solicit help from MerCruiser Customer Assistance but they would only work with an authorized MerCruiser dealer. The local Mercruiser dealer is "too bbusy to get involved". The last and most recent attempt was to snstall new IAC motors. This also had no effect. We are now starting the 2011 boating season, the stalling condition has still not been resolved and as has been previously indicated become a problem in the port engine also. I am at the end of my rope; can you possibly provide suggestions as how to proceed or where to go to get this problem fixed? Thank you in advance for your consideration. Wayne W Zenk
How damaging is ethanol gasoline to my 4 stroke Yamaha.
Don, I am Jake and I have a 2005 Grady White 300 Marlin; equipped with twin F250 Yamahas. There are 110 hours on the twins. I have done fuel system maintenance this spring i.e., changing the primary fuel filters and removing and cleaning the secondarys. Problem: upon starting the engines, the alarms activate and continue to whail in gear and out. The only way to stop the alarms is to shut off the engines. In addition , the tachometers, which include eng. temp. and oil pressure are not providing any data. Any thoughts?
Hey Don, I have a '90 27' Carver Santego that had a stiff shift control. I'm having my mechanic replace the lower cables, is there anything else that I can look for if that doesn't fix the problem? I've heard that the upper cables could be binding and that a lithium grease would help it out before replacing them also. Randy
Can you tell me what a dampening pulley is and what it is used for. I have a 2000 Chaparral SSE and need to replace this part along with replacing my starter. This isn't work that I will be doing on my own. I'm just trying to understand what this pulley actually does. thanks.
Don, what kind of sealant do you recommend for diesel filter to hose connections? Tape, paste? Any specific product? Thanks, Ken
My trawler has a 120 Lehman engine with 2000 hours After being around other trawlers with the same engine For several years I have note¿s I must crank mine a minimum of twice and often three times before it starts. All the others Start right up on the first crank. Any suggestions?
Don, You recently suggested a pencil zinc in the heat exchanger. I just bought a Pro-Line 3250 with Mercruiser 7.4L's with Bravo III's and am just beginning my learning process. I would think the zincs would go underwater, but the exhaust manifolds and risers are on top of the engines. Where are these heat exchangers you speak of? Bruce
Don, I would like to protect my engines on my 30¿ Tollycraft from freezing, the engine room somewhat warm and to keep moisture from getting into the engine oil through condensation. My boat is moored in Oregon for lengthy periods of time in the winter. I am curious what the pros and cons might be for installing a block heater on each engine. Also could this create any electrolysis issues? Thank you for your advise, Dan Setniker
During our recent spring commissioning, the starboard engine quit. Upon checking, the fuel filter had water mixed with the gas. The engine is Crusader Marine inboard and the fuel tank is aluminum. The gasoline was treated in the fall. There is approx. 20 gallons in the tank. Do you have any thoughts on an additive or does the tank need to be pumped out. Thank you.
How do I change the cooling water impeller in my Bravo 1 outdrive?
The last time out on the lake last year was shot when the engine would not start. It turns over fine, but acts like its not getting any fuel. This is a 1994 Chaparral 2130 Sport, with a 7.4L Merc (carbureted). No problems the previous time out. I doubt its a water-in-the-fuel issue. I use marine Sta-bil in the right proportion ever time I fill the tank. Also, I change the water-separating fuel filter every second or third tankful. Yeah, I know that's overkill, but I'm not taking any chances. Normally, as I first crank it, I put the throttle all the way down, then come back to about 1/4 throttle and it cranks within about 10-15 seconds. This time, nothing. I even put the throttle all the way down (blower on, hatch open), which tends to flood it (I know that from experience), but I don't smell any gas at all. So, I'm guessing its the fuel pump. Now, the really strange thing is a beeping noise. It almost sounds like the reverse beeper on a garbage truck, or delivery truck that beeps when they are in reverse. As the motor is cranking and the hatch open, I can hear that beep about once per second. Never heard that before in the 16 years I've had this boat, and I can't tell where its coming from. Hard to describe the beep. Not really a high-pitched "beep... beep... beep", but a lower frequency like "baap... baap... baap...). Due to work and family issues, I didn't get a chance to diagnose the issue and just did the winterization and put her up for the season. Now the lake is full, the weather is getting better every day, and its time to do my spring preps. Any ideas where that beep is coming from? Could this be anything else besides the fuel pump? Thanks
i took my 2009 rinker out for the first time after being docked all winter last weekend. i did have the mercruiser in board professionally winterized last fall. one hour into my trip the sea pump malfunctioned - belt came off and i was stranded. according to the mechanic the sea pump failed not the impeller. did the sea pump fail due to the winterization process? was the boat winterized improperly and could this be the cause of the sea pump failure? thanks for your time and look forward in your response... brian (573)356-0380
My warning alarm on my 1985 Christcraft 281 will not shut off when I start the port engine and on the starboard engine it will not turn with ignition key on. All the gages look good. Where do I start to trouble shoot this problem? Thanks, firstname.lastname@example.org
Sir, I recently bought a 1989 wellcraft st. tropez 32' with twin 454 inboards. the sea trial went well and the engines performed and got the hull up on plane. when moving the boat 2 weeks ago we started noticeing that the starboard engine loses power and stalls when throttelling up. it will idle just fine but when power is applied it get to about 2000 rpm and then stalls. I have changed the fuel filters and the issue still exists. Is this a do-it-yourself project of trouble shooting that I can so myself? thanks you, Kevin
I have a 2002 Yamaha 200HP 4 Stroke engine with 145 hours on it. I am having a problem flushing the engine with fresh water when using a flushing attachment on the lower unit. In order to get the pump to pump water while the engine is running out of the water I have to put duct tape on every opening in the lower unit. If I don't, the water just pours out of the casted in slits on the rear end of the lower unit and out of the drain holes. The same thing happens when I use the flushing connection on the upper housing on the cowling on the engine.(I use this connection when the boat is in it's slip and, I flush the engine after every use) I have never had to do this with any other engine I've ever owned. Can you explain to me what the problem is or is this normal? Thank you, George Penncavage
The grease fittings on my Yamaha 250hp outboard have rubber caps over them. Do you remove the caps before greasing and do you replace them after?
Hi Don, My 2007 Harbor Master 400C is equipped with twin 8.1 liter Mercruiser Horizon engines. These engines have what Mercruiser calls a "Cool Fuel" module with internal fuel filters made of paper. They are difficult to get to and provide no visual indications. With the potential problems with ethanol fuels, I would like to put after market water separating fuel filters in the fuel supply lines where it is easier to check for water and replace the filter elements. However, Mercruiser recommends against this citing the potential for fuel starvation problems. What is your opinion?
My 5.7 Volvo Penta DPGSI was repowered a year ago with a transfer to a new 5.7 Vortec Bloc. The orginal engine ran at 5000 rpms at WOT. The new engine runs only at 4200. The ECM was replaced as well as the fuel pumps. It runs smoothly but does not have the speed/power. The marina who did the repair does not know why. Any suggestions.
My vessel is a 1995, 31 ft Mainship Sedan Bridge with twin GM/Marine Power 275 diesel turbocharged engines. Hours: 865. Port engine overheats at 3000 rpms. Oil is slow to drain back to pan at end of day. Takes 48 hours. Can you suggest a way of addressing this short of taking engine apart? I tend to overfill the oil resulting in oil spraying in the engine compartment from turbocharger.
what will cause rusty water to come from the exhaust, I have a Topaz with Volvo Penta TAMD40's in it. THANK YOU
Hi Don, I have a 2000 135hp Optimax. Wondering if I can use another brand oil other than the $$$ Mercury oil. Consumer Reports did an extensive study on synthetic oil in cars and found no appreciable difference between synthetic and regular car oil. Would this be the same for boats. Surfing the web seems to add to the confusion. Thanks for your thoughts. Rich.
Hello Don, I have a 1983 Chris Craft 280 - Catalina. I just re-powered her with a 5.7-Liter GM Vortec Inboard rated at 300-HP @5000-RPM's. I usually cruse along at about 2000 RPMs, I'm not in much of a hurry - I live on a lake in North Carolina - but when I do lay down the hammer I can only get 3000 RPMs max out of her. I am going to be taking her out of the water this week, and plan to pull the prop put on a new cutlass bearing bearing, maybe a new prop and adjust the pitch (if need be). I see a few suggestions in some forums for prop size and pitch for my CC 2180, but could not find anyone with the definitive specs for this single screw. Can you help me out here? Regards, Brian
I have a sailing catamaran with plastic fuel tanks. On one tank, the brass fuel pickup tube is severely fouled with a black substance. I haven't checked the other tank yet. Once dry, the substance can be scraped off with a fingernail and crumbles to dust when rubbed between fingers. The fouling is both inside and outside the tube, but much worse outside the tube. The inside of the plastic tank is clean on sides and bottom and does not have any deposits. I use diesel fuel with Valvtect Diesel Guard and Valvtect Biogard biocide. Regular fuel filter changes do not evidence any fouling. Do you have any idea what the fouling on the fuel pickups might be? Thank you!
Don, This past September my wife and I purchased a new(used) Carver 405 aft cabin. My question is does it do any damage to a motor or transmission to cruise 8-10 knots using only one motor.The motor runs 2000/2200 rpm.Some people say yes, some say no, others say to put motor not being used into gear to keep shaft from spinning. we are on the Ohio River. I used to do this on my Wellcraft Grand Sport. I never went for more than 3-hours, then switched motors. I always start both motors and use them for docking, so fluid is pumped through trans. Advise, Tom Adams-Cincinnati, Ohio
One of my Volvo V8 fuel injected engines stalls out after it runs for a few minutes due to water drowning out the spark plugs . The mechanic at the marina where the boat is kept ( in /out storage)states that he is 99% certain that the manifolds and risers ( which are not very old) are the problem ( also now informs me that there is water in the engine oil as well ) Claims that it will take eight (8) hours to R&R ? I have also been told by a different mechanic that he believes that it is probably the head or intake manifold gasket ? Any advice as to how I can be certain who is correct ??? Many thanks ! Len Harrison
Subject::: Fuel tank on 1980 Pearson 40. Dear Don, I have just finished your great book : Sailboat Electrics Simplified. It was very confidence building! My P40 gas tank is filthy and has no access openings for cleaning. The tank is old (original) but not leaking. Should I replace the tank or cut two access doors into the top and have it cleaned out in situ ( the tank cannot be removed unless the engine is pulled)? Thank you. Sincerely, Max MULHERN
Dear Don: I had the engine oil & filters changes on my l999 Carver 456 Mercruiser 8.2L before winterization. I have always used mercury 25-40w oil. The marina used mercruiser's synthetic 23-40w for the first time even though I did not request the synthetic. The engines have about 400 hrs of use. Any problem with using synthetic oil on old engines? I know I should top off with synthetic when necessary. Thanks
I have a 1978 Chris Craft Cutlass Frontrunner. It has a Marine Power 305 motor with a Volvo AQ280 drive. The problem I am having is with the carburetor. It currently has a brand new Rochester Quadrajet which was what it came with originally. The problem is that at 5000 rpm, or when the secondary opens up, it just bogs down and does not want to spin up to maximum rpm's. I have had every marine tech in my area (Colonial Beach, Va.) work on this matter and nobody seems to be able to fix it. What can i do? CC only made 124 of this model. It is an open bow with a beautiful carolina flare bow. It turns heads everywhere I go. I really want to restore this boat to showroom condition. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve McDougal
I own a 1975 Bristol 27 on the Potomac River. I would like to sail during the winter when ice exists. Recently my prop packing glans began leaking statically and required tightening. Nothing out of the normal but I have read several internet postings regarding packing glands freezing. My question is "If the shaft spins freely and is not so tight that it causes friction or heat during operation (in other words it is adjusted correctly), should there be any concern with operation during ice conditions?" Should I be concerned that it may freeze in some way and begin leaking so much that it needs replaced while out and about?
Before I could winterize my boat this fall we had a cold spell and when I took it to my mechanic he checked it out and said I needed a new engine due to it freezing up. My question is do I really need a new engine or can it be repaired without replacing it? It is a 2000 Caravelle 209 Bowride. I also store it inside a storage unit but it's not heated.
Our walk-thru Shamrock has not yet had ethanol gas. We just installed new SS tanks. It seems the unavoidable has arrived. Have to start using ethanol gas. With the myriad of additives on the market: ethanol medic, valvtect, sta-bil, etc., etc. what is best and why? Or don't use an additive? And/or what else should be done?
do to health problems i did not get to use my boat as much as i wanted to the last two years. not wanting to let the gas in the boat for another year i pumped the tank dry.i was going to put 80 gallons in (170 gal tank) and treat it with stabilizer.i started thinking about all the new boats i see on the dealers lots with empty tanks.my question is,why should i put gas in my tank if they let all those boats sit with empty tanks? why not just wait till next year? thank you for you help with this.
My 2004 Yamaha 225 hp 4 stroke needs a new lower unit. Instead of a brand new one, what is your opinion about after market or rebuilt units? Are there any specific vendors you would recommend?
i LOST THE MAGAZINE ISSUE RE WINTERIZING MY MOTOR, SO HERE YOU GO... iS IT ok TO STORE MY MOTOR OUTSIDE (YES I DID WINTERIZE IT) IN UPWARD OR HORIZONTAL POSITION, USING THE LATCH MECHANISM TO KEEP IT UP AND STABLE? THANKS... LEON
Hello Don, Just wondering what is the best way to loosen the screws on a lower unit outboard that allows for lubricant? Some people suggest a hand held impact screwdriver Thanks! Ted
My boat has a gate valve at the thru hull water intake for the engine. Is there a problem with this? If so, what is the problem? Thanks.
Dear Don, I have a good friend who has a 2 year old 22ft Twinn-Vee power catamaran c/c with T-top. It's powered by 2 140 hp Suzuki 4 stroke outboards. He has had a problem with the engine throwing prop spray onto each other and the boat handles poorly. Its difficult to get the boat to turn in place (pinwheel) and at speeds the boat feels unstable. The other day another friend noticed that the starboard side sponson had a left-hand turning prop and the port side sponson had a right-hand turning prop. I suspect that the engines are mounted incorrectly (reversed) but Twin-Vee is no longer in business to consult with. The dealer has had the boat back several times for this problem but all they do is play with the engins mounting heights. The dealer installed the engines. What do you think? Captain Frank W Zadina
Don, my 40 hp merc ran fine from boatyard to home after 6 month layup and new water pump. Next trip I stalled and quit after about 15 minutes in low speed limit channel. It restarted and ran fine at 3500 to 5000 rpm but quit again at lower speed. Got home by going fast. Did noticed some oil in the water when I started engine for the problem trip. Any help would be appreciated..Thanks Bob in Cocoa Beach
Need starter removal instructions for Mercruiser MCM 190 1985 model.
I just had new propeller shaft packing installed. Used conventional flax packing. I have one packing that is leaking wax. What does this mean?
I have a carver 3297(1989) with opposing engine rotations.I'm having difficulty removing the jamnut on the strbrd prop shaft.I did the port no problem.Are the threads on the strbrd shaft reversed threads?
Hello Don, as you know, boat controls has a push botton that makes them like go on neutral so you can start the engines and then, when bring them back to the center position they lock and are ready to engage the desire gear. What is going on when this operation fails and the controls doesn't engage staying loose. That is my problem with my twin engines Morse controls. I dismantle them and verify proper lubrication but still doing that thing from time to time. I correct this by striking the controls several times and they lock but I know this is not normal, any ideas?
I have a 20 ft. Angler Walkaround with a 2000 Johnson 150 H.P. OUTBOARD. The problem I have is with my fuel system. My engine primes up, starts up and runs well to 2500RPM then check eng. light comes on, primer ball sucks flat and engine RPM drops. If I trottle dowm to 2500 RPM she'll run well again.I've check my vent line, it's clear, I've changed my primer ball and still have same problem.What to do next?
Mr. Casey, I have a 2002 Yamaha F40TLRA which has always started easily and run smooth as silk, about 50 hours per summer - until this year. Now, it starts with difficulty, runs rough, and will not easily accelerate with the warm up lever until warmed up for quite a while, and will not continue to run when shifted into gear. After a long warm-up out of gear, I can eventually get it into gear after many tries. Once in gear, it will only accelerate a little at a time with very slow and gentle increases of the throtte up to 3000 RPM but no higher. If I retard the throttle, the engine immediately quits. We have installed new plugs, drained all three carburaters, tried a different fuel tank with fresh fuel, and replaced the stator and cdi, to no avail. Any suggestions? Thank you! Kit Kerrigan
Ihave two Crusader 270 engines in my boat. It was srored on shore for two years winter and summer, with oly the blocks and manifolds drained of sea water with no apparent damage. Is it alright to continue thism procedure versus adding a green or inviormently safe anti-freeze. The boat is stored outside along Lake Erie with harsh winters. Jim
HELLO i HAVE A 1987 NISSAN 5HP OUTBOARD. I HAD THE ENGINE TUNED UP AT THE END OF JUNE 2010. THE PUT NEW INPELLER AND DID A CARB KIT REBUILD. AT THE END OF AUG 2010 THE ENGINE STOPPED WORKING i USED THIS ENGINE 8 TIMES FOR AN HOUR AT A TIME 8 HOURS. I BROUGHT IT BACK TO THE REPAIR PLACE AND THEY TOLD ME THEY HAD TO REBUILD THE CARB BECAUSE OF BAD GAS AND JUNK IN THE CARB. I TOLD THEM I USED IT 8 TIMES BUT THEY SAID IN NOT THEIR FALT BECAUSRE OF BAD GAS. THE GAS I USED WAS FRESH GAS. CAN THE CARB GET FOUL AFTER 8 TIMES OF USE? OR ARE THEY TRING TO PULL A FAST ONE.
i have twin out drive one of my out drives need to replace the gimbal bearing should i replace both?
My 200hp 4 stroke Yamaha is approaching 500 hours. Assuming normal maintenance, (oil change, water-pump, plugs, lube, etc.) how many hours can I expect before the engine will need work beyond normal maintenance. I realize 4 strokes may not have been around long enought to provide enough data to respond accurately to my question. Thank you.
Hello Don, I have a friend who's boat engine cracked the oil pan. The engine is a 1992 3.0 Mercruiser mounted in a Monterey boat. We have tried to get the part from a marine dealer but they are too expensive and we need two. We was thinking on getting a similar oil pan from the automotive field on a local auto parts but don't know what car model and year has the similar oil pan as these mercruiser engines. We are getting desperate with this and any help will be greatfull, thanks.
Is it possible for a crack in the manifold to be a freeze rack if it did show up until approx. 50 hrs. had been ran on the engine. We live in Charleston SC, we have not had freezing temps. since Feb. The cracked manifold happened is Sep. The engine currently has 250 hrs. on it. Thanks
Don, I have twin crusader engines in a 1976 Gibson. last year I ran aground on a sandbar and at first the starboard engine ran about 40 degrees hotter than normal(140). Also (looking at the front of engine to back)the right bank feels hotter than the left bank and the water discharge reflects that. I changed the impeller and the thermostat and that made some difference, idle -160, 2000 RPM 180. The port engine ran normal. Several weeks ago on a short cruse the port engine went to 180 deg also. Exhaust water is fine at first then after warming up, water flow is minimal and temp stays at 180 to 190. Replaced impeller checked for oil cooler for blockage(OK), checked thermostat, (moved freely), removed 1 drain plug on block and little or no sand. Boat is in Mississippi River. Thanks, Kent Smith
I'm looking to purchase a 1991 Trophy 25 ft boat. They were originally with two outboards, I believe 150 hp's. The last owner repowered and put a 2003 Evinrude 250hp DFI bombadier on it. I'm wondering if this could have any harm on the structural integrity for holding the engine? I anticipate it may have less power as well but could it be underpowered? The boat weighs over 4500 lbs I believe? Any suggestions on what to look for would be helpful. I believe a Evinrude put the motor own with all new controls. I will look for cracks or stress on transome? Your response will be most appreciated. Tim
My 1994 Mercury 175 HP black max runs really great(I try to maintain it the best I can, if necessary I take it my mechanic) He wont be back from vacation until the first week of Oct. Last week as I went into forward gear the engine started to buck, I shifted into neutral waited a moment shifted to forward it did it again but stopped and the engine ran great as it always has. We fished for about 5 hours and each time I shifted in forward it bucked again....but the engine runs great as always, any suggestions ??? Thanking you in advance, Anthony Cece
Hi Don, I left 2 gallons of West Marine TC3W in a compartment on my boat for the winter. It is already shrink wrapped for the season. Will the stored oil be good next spring? The boat is in Wildwood,N.J. Thank You, John Carey
Dear Don: I put 25 hours on my boat this season do I need to have an Annual outdrive service performed every year. I don't want to short cut maintenance but at $450.00 per outdrive every year I'm trying to save where I can. Twin 5.0 liter with bravo 2 outdrives.
I have a Volvo Penta 5.0 GXi with MFI. I have heard and read that you should not spray fogging oil into the intake of an MFI engine when winterizing. Is this true? Can it cause damage?
My 1993 150hp Mercury Black Max starts and operates fine at low rpm's (700-2500). It will not go above 3000 rpm's. I have replaced the plugs with new ones, replaced the water/fuel filter/seperator and replaced the fuel filter. I suspect the fuel is bad. I fill the tank at the end of each season with fuel and stabelizer it has appx 70 gal.in tank. Where can I dispose of the bad gas and what else should I do to get back to problem free boating. Thanks, MIchael T. Scott
Hi Don, I have a 1990 454 Mercruise 7.4L that won't start. At first, I was thinking it was the starter motor since the batteries were all charged and all I would hear is "click" when turning the key. A friend of mine who has some knowledge with boat engines suggested I remove the spark plugs and try to manually turn the engine and it won't. Could it be that the engine has seized up or is there any other ways to check if this is the case? He also suggested spraying WD40 or Transmission Fluid into the cylinders to see if that will free them up. I also noticed that the circuit breaker reset button on the side of the engine was set up to remain pushed by the previos owner, can this affect the starting of the engine? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated before I start taking things apart.
Hello, Don. I have a 1989 Silverton Motoryacht with twin 454's. Last week, I started the motors to warm up before heading out with some customers. The motors started just fine and sounded fantastic. After a few minutes of running, I shut down the engines to wait for my guests to arrive. After 15 minutes, my guests arrived, I re-started both engines with no problems and just before I cast off, first one motor and then the next stalled out. It seemed as if they ran out of fuel, although my gauge reads 1/2 full (and i recently put 100 gallons in and have hardly run it since). Both engines turn over and seem to spark, but will not fully start. I've ruled out a fuel filter blockage, as both engines died nearly simultaneously and each engine has a separate filter on separate fuel line. The boat has a single fuel tank which is right in the center of the boat in what seems an impossible location. Can you give me any other ideas on how to trouble-shoot the issue before I call a mechanic?
Hi Don, I am refreshing the engines in my 1979 Bluewater Yacht and replacing the manifolds and risers. The engines are 454 Crusaders (Mk IV block), 350 hp. My question is, why are the mounting bolts for the riser to the manifold stainless steel, with copper washers and brass nylock nuts, while the mounting bolts for the exhaust elbow to the risers areplain steel with plain steel lock washers and nuts? Why aren't they all the same? When I ask the parts supplier this question, the answer I get is "that is what the OEM parts where". Thank you, Jerry Graham
I have twin 486 mercruisers, 2005 Doral. Notices this year 1 engine burns about 5 or so gph more than the other, at full throttle is at 3700 rpm, but the other engine (burning less fuel) is at 4000 rpm. So, suspect engine burns more fuel (confirmed at fill up - starboard tank at 1/4 full, port tank (good engine) about 1/2 tank full. Both engines run smooth, perfect in all other ways. no stalling, no hesitation, no other issues. starboard engine at low RPMs seems to burn same fuel rate as port engine, but as you run faster, starboard engine fuel consumption (have fuel flow meter) starts to be as much as 5 gph more at same RPM. Plus, when both throttles pushed to the max, starboard engine tops out at about 3700 rpm at 34 gph, port engine goes to 4000 rpm - maybe 28 gph. Can anyone suggest what might cause this? Someone mentioned barnacles on props of starboard engine (bravo 3 drives)? Have not hit anything with props, no vibrations, all otherwise is perfect. thanks for any suggestions. Roger
MY 1987 200 BLACK MAX MERCURY WILL STALL WHEN IN NUTRAL AND WILL VIBRATE AT LOW RPM. WHEN YOU GIVE IT GAS MOTOR WILL RUN OK.
I have a small mercury outboard 3.3 horsepower that I believe has ethanol related condensation problems and will not start. How should I go about trying to fix this problem?
I have a 2002 pro line 20 sport with a 200 hp high out put evinrude e tech.I have about 30 gal of e/10 fuel in the tank that has been there for 2 years.Want to get back into service .Please advise as to the proper proceedure to follow to insure no damage to the engine ?
Hello, I have a 1986 90HP Mercury outboard 2 stroke. I use Quicksilver oil when mixing with gas. I just received this boat as a gift and was curious what your recomendation of oil to gas ratio is? Thanks for your help and I will be looking forward to your answer.
What is the proper type of pipe to use with bronze fittings on raw water intake plumbing??
Don, I am looking at buying a 2001 30' grady white with 2- 2-stroke, yamaha, 250hp saltwater series II engines with 700 hours. I wnated to see if how these would compare to the newere yamaha 250 hp 4-stroke engines as to reliability, torque, maintenance costs, fuel economy, etc my other option would be try to find used 4-stokes and put on this boat. Waht would you suggest? I would be using the boat offshore in Florida and use it about 100 hours per year. thank you, john
Is the #2 diesel fuel sold at a local gas station the same as the diesel fuel sold at the fueling docks? Its a lot cheaper and no doubt fresher than the fueling dock product...
Hi Don, I still have last years gas in my boat. Of 170 gallons, I'm down to 1/4 of a tank. Should I go lower before I refill,or mix the new with the old now? Additives have been added from storage last winter up until now. Thank You,....John Carey
I have a 1998 proline 201 with a 4.3 Mercruiser with the Thunderbolt Ignition sometimes when starting I just get a clicking sound from the engine If I keep turning the key off and on she starts up. Other times she starts right up. Where sound I look for the problem?
I have a 1986 Four Winns w/ 5.0 lt. 230hp Mercruiser. At idle it stays at 130 deg. When running, it jumps between 160 and 180 deg. Is this normal?
I have a 1999 Maxum SCR3300 with twin mercruiser 300 hp. The port engine stopped and makes a horrible clanking sound when attempting to start. The boat is very well maintained and hauled each year. I have reasonable faith in my mechanic and he says I most probably need to replace the engine. It has approximately 500 hours. I have been quoted $5,000-6,000 for the complete job. does this sound reasonable?
Cone Clutch Failure on Mercruiser 350 MPI - Bravo III Outdrive. This is on a 2005 Bayliner 325 with less than 100 hours on it. The cone clutch has welded itself to the shaft along with the shift cable. The Mercury Authorized Service from whom I bought the boat tells me that this is caused by too rapid of a shift in gears. However, that is something that I never do! Both controls have always been stiff and hard to shift, but I was told that that was normal when I purchased the boat new in 2006. I have asked them to check out the condition of the other outdrive as both are treated exactly the same. I have also asked them to contact Mercruiser and have their territory representative to look into the failure. Your advice please!
Dear Mr. Casey I have 1998 Ficht 150's w/pinned heads, proper Champion plugs, they have been relatively trouble free and strong, last compression test showed all w/in 5%. Both engines start and run very well. I buy my gas from the same vendor as usual, ethanol free, I use XD50 oil and seafoam gas additive, 1oz per gallon to minimize carbon. I started getting an intermittent check engine light/audible alarm on one motor, code 37, "water in fuel sensor activation." -Emptied the water separator into a glass jar, no evidence of water, reinstalled same filter. -engine mounted separator/fuel filter, no evidence of water replaced w/new. -fuel filter sensor test reads continuity correctly when tested. The check light and alarm have been sounding intermittently, after idling out of the marina and running above 3700 for a few minutes. Alarm sounds for 30 seconds, light comes on, sometimes it will go out when I return to idle. If I shut the motor down and turn off the battery for a minute or so, the code will clear, sometimes it will come back, sometimes it won't. Always a code 37. If I let the engine just idle for a while (20 minutes) it has not coded. I ran the motor with the sensor boot disconnected and the alarm sounded after a few minutes. I'm starting to think the EMM is getting flaky. Any advise you could lend would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Tom
Hi Due to circumstances beyond my control I recently had to add about 30gals of diesel to one of my engine's tank from a regular highway fuel station in order to make it home (2 hrs run time) with my wife and 17 month old. Not an easy task lugging a 5gal can back and forth! I purchased a diesel additive claiming to increase lubrication since I was worried about the ethenol and low sulfur content - but had no choice. Will this highway diesel harm my engine or any of the sensors/boosters? Is there something I should add to the tank or just top it off with the fuel at the marina? Any help to sooth a heavy mind would be much appreciated. The power plants are '05s if this makes a difference. Thanks RK 7yr FL Member
I have a 25hp Suzuki (1995) outboard. It runs good at slow speed but when I give it the full throttle it acts like it is running out of gas. I go back to slow speed and it runs ok.sometimes the whistle also blows at full throttle. What is wrong?
Don, I would like to shift from my Stainless propeller (Mercury Marine Mirage Plus 15 1/2 X 17, to an aluminum prop due to some shallows in the river that I am cruising. If not happy will swap back and use aluminum prop as spare. However, When changing from Stainless to Aluminum, do I have to increase my pitch and or decrease my diameter on the Aluminum due to it being lighter weight then the Stainless??? Or do I simply purchase the same size Aluminum as my Stainless???
I have a 1988 Searay 340 Sundancer with Mercruser 454/340 HP engines. I am not sure what kind of gas tanks I have. Do I have to worry about using gasoline with ethenol hurting tanks, fuel lines or engines? Thank you in advance.
I have a challenge for you. I have a 1974 Tecumseh outboard that I need a new fuel pump. Do you know anyone that deals in these parts? Can I just make 1 from an old fuel pump from another boat?
I have recently spun a prop on my 1998 202 split console proline. The motor was a 150 HP Merc offshore blue label. I do not know the pitch of the old prop. The boat is roughly 3000lb and top RPM 5400. The old prop ran at 50 MPH. I bought a 14 1/2 X 19 pitch prop and now the boat runs 36 MPH at 4400 RPM. I was told a 19 pitch is the recomended size from Proline. Any suggestions????? Thanks Jeff Denton
Hello Don Casey, I have a question on propulsion, my boat has twin Volvo Penta 4.3GL with twin Volvo SX-M Sterndrives. I noticed that when cruising at slow speed the starboard side sterndrive propulsion is less than the port side one even though both engines are at same RPM, why is this and how can I correct it? Both propellers are the same measurements and pitch.
we have '80 irwin citation 34'... yanmar starts right up but there is small knob to pull out to select forward or reverse that won't work. frozen, broken???? any ideas appreciated..thank you
Have twin 7.4L /454 Mag MPI Horizon Mercruiser Engines in my 2000 Wellcraft Martinique that are fresh water cooled. Had risers and manifolds changed on starboard engine before last season. I'm getting white smoke from the starboard exhaust at cruising speed. Not a huge amount but a steady very visible stream. What do you think I should I look at or check? Thanks.
I have a 1987 268 Sun Dancer with Mercruiser 260 engine. It is fine to start cold but it fails to restart after about half an hour cruising. Can you help? Besides, the speed can only reach to 15 mph at 4200rpm? The highest in last season was 22mph? The bottom is clean and painted. The prop.size is 15-15 1/2". Any clue? Thanks
Hi Don, I own a Tiara 3100 with a fresh water cooling system using heat exchangers. I am trying to determine the best approach to fresh water flush the raw water system for the engines, A/C, and Generator in the easiest way possible. I use the boat each week and I need a quick and easy way to flush all the systems. I appreciate your advice. Stuart
We are looking to purchase a St. Tropez. Currently its only problem is a leaking portside fuel tank. What is your opinion on the Moeller replacements verses having an aluminum tank made?
I just spun my prop recently. I had a 3 blade s.s prop that ran the boat at roughly 50 MPH. I purchased a new prop and now the boat at full throttle runs at 4000 RPM and 35 MPH... I have a 1998 150 Merc. Any suggestions please, could outrun a storm this weekend.... Thanks Jeff
I have a Mercruiser 165, my engine seems to surge at times even though i'm trying to keep a constant speed i've noticed that at the same time the surge occurs the oil gauge jumps up. I thought it could be a fuel system problem but now i'm not sure. I've replace the fuel filter and add the equivelent of dry gas but still have the same problem could you please help.
When I bought my Suzuki 140 prop in for repair I found out it was a left hand prop. The dealer that sold me the motor didn't tell me he was selling me a left hand prop motor. Are there any disadvantages for having a left hand rotating engine over a right hand one? Thanks.
I have a Mercruiser Alpha One lower. Should the exhaust be coming thru the prop. It's currently coming thru a hole at the lower right corner of the gimbel housing...
I have a 2002 (130 hrs) Yamaha 150 2 stroke outboard--purchased this boat recently and it was well maintained according to the survey that was completed. Brand new battery. I'm new to boating and have a question about starting the engine. I prime the bulb 3X and pull the choke--it takes between 4 to 8 attempts to get the engine to start. Once started it runs well and when warmed up I have no problems starting it. My question is: Is several attempts normal with this type of engine? Will brand new plugs make a difference in starting? Thank you!!
Hi Don, I have 1997 with twins 5.7 LX Mercruiser. My port engine stalled and couldn't restart. I removed the fuel/water seperator and was almost empty. No fuel to my carb. I removed and replaced fuel pump and fuel/water seperator. still no start.. I checked my anti sipon valve. It moved freely... Now what should I do. thanks Jim
After taking run my 2004 265/5.7 Merc/Brvao 3 from winterized storage and going out for a run for about an hour, I noticed that there is new oil in the bilge. I had cleaned the bilge prior to going in the water and running it, so I know it was clean. I ran for about an hour, the engine oil level is just below the OK mark, and there is a three to four inch wide spill in the bilge. Any suggesttions what I should look for and either try fix myself or tell the service department? Thanks in Advance, Raul
Help, I'm having a problem with the proper installation of my propellor for my Yamaha 150 hp. Please send me a picture of the correct alignment of the parts. I had a Mercury prop. on the engine and seem to have mixed up the parts. Thank you in advance. Capt. Ron
Hi Don: Both my 3208 T Cats emit a lightish colored "smoke" only after the engines hit about 2,450 rpm up to WOT (2,800). They sound good and feel good. Oil usage not an issue. Props tuned, maybe had some very light growth, fuel filters are new, fuel tank cleaned about 3 years ago. They have always done this since I owned the boat (6 yrs.) More noticeable with the hot weather in Tampa. Is this a problem ? Thanks. Bruce Clark
Good Morning, I went ahead and had new longblocks installed last year, did the 10 hour break-in and had them adjusted and checked. Now with 16 hours on them one of the holes in the port engine is not getting oil to the push rod (a little spurt now and then). Had a new push rod assembly and lifter installed and still doesn't work. No one can figure out why. I really don't want to have to r&r the engine. What do you think? thanks, Richard
I have a 1988 28' Bertram with a 240 gal original fiberglass gas tank. Is there a chance or any way to determine if I can safely use ethnol gas? I understand there was a change in the fiberglass materials in the mid to late 80's that would permit ethenol use. In the 2009 season there were still a few marinas with ethnol free gas. In 2010 I had a young Sunoco attendent tell me he was still ethnol free. I called Sun Oil and they said it was unlikely.
I have a Catalina 42 with a Racor spin on located adjacent to the fuel tank, diesel engine. It has the plastic bowl on it but is located outside the engine compartment. It is factory for a 1989 boat. 220R Racor unit. I know if it is in the engine compartment it has to have a heat shield or metal bowl, but is this ok where it is outside the engine room?
I have a small outboard motor with a built in (under the cover) gas tank. It is a Nissan NS2.5A 2 stroke. The line going from the tank to the carburetor appears to be 1/4" ID with a spring clamp. I want to go to a portable tank with the bulb in the line. Is it possible and would one of the universal fuel lines with an adapter work ok?
I am looking at some 50' Sea Ray Sundancer's and am wondering if the D.D. 6v92 can be altered to not smoke? I know it is a 2 stroke engine but are there heaters or something that can be added to help in this problem? Rick
Don, I have a 2003 180CC Sea Pro with a 2003 Yamaha 90 HP outboard 2 stroke. The fuel / water separator filter is mounted on the boat and I recently had trouble with water in the fuel. I want to replace the present "stock" filter with a "Racor" fuel / water separator filter and need to know which model would work best ? I keep seeing the question about what the "GPH" is and I hear differing opinions on how that is figured? can you help me ? Thanks, Steve
How long can you store a full tank of gas that is treated with a stabilizer,i.e. Star Brite/Star Tron treatment? My boat has a 80 gallon aluminum tank. Can you mix stabilizers ?
My 1995 Bayliner Capri was not properly winterized and I discovered two cracked exhaust manifolds when I fired it up a coouple of weeks ago.The engine is a mercruiser 4.3 lx 4 barrel. Today, I replaced the manifolds and started it up to check for leaks. Everything was great for about 10 minutes when all of a sudden I noticed this horrible milky substance foaming from the valve cover and vents. I checked the oil and confirmed my fears that there was water in the crankcase. My question is simply, does this automatically mean I have a cracked engine block or could there be a simpler(less expensive)repair.
Hi Don, Looking for infiormation on Diesel magnetic fuel polishing, pros - cons. Looking at installing the Fuel Tech Industries, Inc. FTC-20/30 on my 4cyl Yanmar 230 HP engines. Thank you, Phil
I need to replace the impeller in my mercruiser 7.4. The raw water pump is mounted on the starboard side of the engine as part of the fuel pump assembly. The engine is a LH rotation. I assume that means left hand rotation. Does this mean left rotation when you are facing the back of the engine from the stern drive or facing the front side of the engine from the fan belt. This is important so I know what way to bend the vanes on the new impeller when I install it in the housing.
I have a 1967 Chris Craft Commander with 327F engines. I am concerned with the approximately 12 inch length of flexible fuel line that connects a 3/8" OD copper fuel line on the hull to a shut off valve on the engine. The flex line is 43 years old and, if rubber inside, probably not reliable especially in light of the new fuels. It appears the flex line has fittings on it that were soldered or braized ( yes the flex line is covered in a copper braid much like modern stainless braided fuel lines.). Hw could that be if it's rubber inside? Maybe it isn't and I should just quit worrying about it. I have not been able to find anyok=ne who knows much about what th eflex line is made of or what type of fitting I need on my newflex line. Best info from looking at photos I have taken seems to indicate a 45 degree flair on the hull side and unknow on the shut off valve side. What do you think? Don't worry about it?
Hi Don, I currently own a 1989 32' Carver aft cabin. It is powered by two Mercruiser 260 HP inboards. It runs and starts okay, but on start up the port engine exhaust spits out what appears to be a carbon residue on the water. I don't believe that it is oil because it doesn't have the petroleum sheen, it is more black and powdery looking. I would like to hear your thoughts on this and how I might correct the problem. Thanks, Rick
AYE Don, I have a 32ft powerboat with twin 225ho inboard motors(gas) I have been told that when on a long cruise and up to cruise speed one can shut down one motor and cruise for a few hours on the one, then switch and cruise for about the same amount of time on the other. I'm told this will about double your cruise range without any adverse effect on either motor,and with gas at almost $5.00 a gallon in my area this method sounds great...Your Opinion Please. Thank You for your time and may you have fair winds and dry decks. Captmal
DON I ASK A ? A WHILE BACK ABOUT MY VOLVO TAMD 41 B DIESEL ENGINES 1990 ABOUT MY OVERHEATING PROBLEM I CLEAN THE HEAT EXCHANGER A FEW TIMES CHECHT RAW WATER PUMP WHICH IS O.K. WHAT IS MY PROBLEM THANK TOY FRANK.
Can you give me any information good or bad on a producr called "PropSpeed" for application to the running gear. I have a twin diesel 40' Sportfish - 2" shafts, 26 X 26 wheels, and will be on the hard in a couple of weeks. I have heard some good things about this product and thought I would check it out with the expert. Thanks Captain Eddie Wightman "Loner" Islamorada, Florida Keys email@example.com 305-304-7006
2000 Mercury 200HP 2.5L Replaced temp sensor and when I turn the key the alarm comes on but stays on. Two wires-one goes to the sensor and one is ground. If I undo the ground the alarm goes off. Help
I own an 1998-99 150 hp Evinrude fuel injected (feht ???) Almost all fuels now are 10% ethanol, Will this fuel damage my engine? Thanks Carl
HI DON I HAVE A 1988 CRUISERS INC ESPIRIT W TWIM 454 I/B MERCS AND BEFORE THE END OF LAST SEASON BOTH SHAFT SEALS WHERE LEAKING, HOW SHOULD I TACKLE THIS CHORE AND WITH WHAT PRODUCT, SHE IS CURRENTLY ON LAND THANK YOU
I own a 2006 Sea Ray 250 Amberjack single engine 5.0L 260 H.P. Mercruiser. It has been in fresh water only for two seasons accumulating 191 hours of use. Water temp gauge is normal. Do I need to change the impeller this spring ( April 2010 ) prior to launch? Thank you, Mike Musgrave
Hi Don,I own a Four Winns 2005 378 with Volvo Penta 8.1 GI.Since brand new I have a problem with riser's gasket leaking,at the beginning Volvo change the gasket for a different one and it was still leaking,so they came back with the first one and was still leaking,they change the torque from 18pounds to 30 pounds and still leaking,also it's been two times that i have to change the risers and manifolds (the second time Volvo pay me back for the parts) and now I have to change it again and my boat is only 5 years old.So I decide to go with Stainless Marine and install aluminum manifolds and stanless steel risers garanty for 5 years and they will last 10 years.The Volco 8.1 are running very hot for two reasons,first bad circulation and heat exchangers to small.Now I complaint to Volvo Penta by e-mail...no answer,I met them at the Miami boat show and they took all my informations...never call me back...I send them a cetified letter wich they receive March 4th 2010 and still no answer.My question is have you ever heard from boaters for the same problem?because right now my risers gasket leaks so much over a period of 5 years that my heads are so rusted there is only 1/8 of a inch left on the surface where my new manifols sits.I need help.My next step will be Consumers affairs.Thanks Don for reading me.Claude Brodeur
I own a 1981 Hunter 33 that is missing it's shaft log. Do you know if this boat requires a shaft log with a bearing or a shaft log without a bearing? What is the criteria and pros and cons of choosing one over the other?
hi don, i would like to have your opinion on my diesel boat has been sitting for a little more than a year, it has approximately 1/4 of a tank in main tank which is 375gal. note boat is on dry dock, and fuel has been treated. should i be concerned about algae,water etc. thank you for your time neil
i have a 1998 evinrude 200 hp i didnt winterize it this winter, long story, i live in pa.it got very cold any precautions i should take before startiing it this spring i did have stabill in the gas
Regarding changing the coolant pump impeller on a Yanmar 3GM30F. Cramped quarters to say the least; even with a Speed-Seal it's a chore. Is it ok to fabricate a hefty bracket that would turn the pump around to have the access plate facing forward? I understand it would need to be carefully aligned to avoid belt wear and the hoses would need to be re-routed to account for the opposite turning of the impeller. There is also the issue of having the belt "trapped" behind the hoses (perhaps a spare could be zip tied to the bracket for an emergency belt change without pulling the hoses), but considering the freedom to change the impeller from the front, (without burning yourself in a critical situation), it seems worth it. Would re-routing the hoses (with smooth curves vs. sharp 90 degree bends) cause any flow restriction that would compromise cooling? Thanks for your input.
I have a new, less than 15 hours, Yamaha, 8HP, 4 stroke on my dinghy. It has not run well since new, hard to start, would not reach full rpm and stalled a lot. I finally had the carb rebuilt and now it starts right up and seems to run as it should. The only problem is that it will only run for about 15 minutes under load and than quits. Once it quits you have to wait a few hours for everything to cool off before it will restart. It does this everytime and I am getting tired of rowing back to the dock. The gas in the tank is new, the tank vent is clear and open, the fuel line and filter are clear, I have verified that fuel is reaching the carb bowl. The cooling water flow looks good. The engine does not feel hotter than normal. I am at wits end with this thing and are about to drop it in the river and start over. This is a brand new engine and so far I have over $600.00 in "repairs". Yamaha's answer to my problems is to tell me the fuel is dirty and may we have your credit card. Any suggestions that you have will be greatly appreciated. Dave Boxmeyer
I have a 406 Carver and have been using fuel that the marina claims NO Alcohal. My boat is around 150 mile from my home so I make an effort one a month to drive down and check it out to make sure all is well. This time all was bad. As I boarded I smelled the strong oder of fuel. I porceded on board and check everthing out but still did not find anything. U went to Lowes and got a new device that had a microscope with screen on it anf found my fuel tanks (Both) had started leaking. Then I found around 150 gallons of fuel in the builge of the boat. This Carver is a 2000 model. I am also a US Coast Guard AUX and have been for 30 years this year. My builge you can eat off of. I spemt two days removing fuel from builge and disposing of it in a proper manner. No I am trying to get the fuel smell out of it. The stringers on this boat are hollow fiberglas and the fuel went clear up inside of these. also up under the bow stateroom, galley, living area and aft state room. Shore power is now disconnected and all masters a shut down. What can I do to remove this odor if possable. I have been washing with dawn and other but still there real Strong. Insurance is sending a surveyer to assess the problem. Word of warning to others. DONT TRUST THE MARING EVEN IF PUMPS ARE NOT POSTED.
Hi Don, We have a 2008 Catalina 350 MKII. There is a water scoop strainer through hull that provides positive water pressure while underway to the dripless shaft seal. Is there a way to check to determine that there is water getting to the shaft and that the scoop strainer isn't fouled to the point that it stops water from entering?. The boat is currently out of the water. Appreciate your help. John Z.
Dear Don, This is Claire Wyngaard of BoatUS forwarding a question to you from Mr. Westfall about an engine not being able to start: I have a 1968 TollyCraft with a Mercrusier repower package from 1992. The engine and outdrive are a 350 cid V8 with a 4bbl GM Quadrajet carburetor, and the outdrive is a Brovo II. It is stored on a trailer and sits level. The boat is covered with a TopGun fabric cover. The boat has not been ran or used, in 2 plus years. The first time, I had this problem, I noticed that when I pumped the throttle, I didn¿t hear or smell, gas being sprayed into the carburetor bowl from the fuel jets? Assuming the mechanical fuel pump is working normal, and assuming the Racor gas/water fuel filter is not plugged with old, stale gas, what other things causing the starting problem could this be? If I drain out the old gas, and fill tank with fresh gas, and change the water fuel filter, with a new primed one, it should start and run ! Right ? What is causing this to happen after non use, over long periods of time?? I had to take it to a shop, that got the engine running by, using gas from an external gas tank, then switching to the onboard tank in the boat. After that, the engine started fine. But after sitting for another 2 years the same problem happen AGAIN! How do I determine if I have an ,antisyphon valve on the fuel tank, and how could it be involved in this problem? I do not live in a severe whether area, I¿m in Sacramento,Ca. I will need to replace all of the bellows including the shift bellow, before I launch again. Please Email your answers to firstname.lastname@example.org. Thanks So Much Douglas Westfall PS: I am a 20 year member of BoatU.S.
Don, I just noticed my block heaters on my 3208 Cats was on. I turned them off but then started wondering if it would be a good idea to leave them on to keep down internal condensation. I live in Corpus Christi, TX and my boat sometimes sits for 3 months or a little longer. Thanx, Toby
Don, I'm now considering buying a 1985 Viking 41' Convertible with Crusader 502 (8.2L) MPI engines. The seller has been operating it with fiberglass tanks without any problems. I looked at another 1985 of the same make/model but 454's and that owner too has been operating it with no problems. Both brokers of the two boats separately said they contacted Viking and Viking said they have not had trouble with todays ethanol blended fuels reacting with their fiberglass tanks. have you heard this about Viking fiberglass tanks? Does this sound correct to you? If i buy should i not expect to continue operating them with fiberglass? I've heard more ethanol might be added to fuels in the future - might there be problems then with Viking's fiberglass tanks if its not happening now? I look forward to your reply asap. Thank you, Cornell Rosiu (email@example.com or 978-689-5042)
Don, I have a 35 foot sailboat with a bronze propeller. Getting ready for spring commissioning and have two questions about preping the propeller. (1) If a sand it clean with 100 grit sandpaper to remove the growth, am I wearing away the bronze and will eventually weaken the propeller? (2) Is there any propeller prep that will inhibit sea growth through the boating season? Appreciate your help. John Z.
Don Casey, I have a 2007 seadoo speedster 155hp. On most days I go out it starts fine but latley it's starting to turn over real slow like the battery is bad. I bought a new charger and had the battery checked and was told it was good. When I take it out I start it and shut it off about a dozen times depending on how much skiing we do, other times I can shut it off once and it won't start. If I let it sit for awhile it will eventually start. Does this sound like a starter problem? Since the boat only three years old with 97 hrs I wouldn't think the starter would go out this soon. Thanks for your suggestion.
Don - Thank you for your response to my question about empty gas tanks, 14-month old gas and the possibility of water/alcohol separation. You recommended that I siphon out a sample of whatever is in the bottom of each of the tanks into a clear container, looking at what is there - i.e., water/alcohol/gas. Here's a couple of follow up questions: 1. If I do so, and discover water/alcohol, what should I do? Siphon out all that I can before filling the tank with fresh gas? 2. I can't empty the tank completely. I'll need to leave enough to fire up the engines and motor over to the gas dock (about a 5 minute run). If I leave about 5 to 10 gallons in each 100-gallon tank, would that be defeating the purpose of siphoning the bad stuff? 3. There's about 15 to 20 gallons in each tank currently. What might be the worst thing to happen if I don't siphon and simply fill the tanks with fresh gas? In advance, thank you for your help! Sincerely, Rick M/V YEPPA
Don, I purchased a 2004 19'carolina skiff dlx with a 75hp yamaha 4 stroke,used,from a dealer. At speeds above 10 kts _+ I have to drop the motor all of the way down to the transom to keep it from cavitating. I have made sure all weight has been distributed properly. The prop is in perfect cond.Sized by the dealer (13 1/4 X 17 alum. and installed properly. I can attain 22to 25 knts at 5200 rpm with now problems, I as long as I keep the trim down all of the way. Would installing an after market hydrofoil help eliminate this problem? John Martin
One hour into a 90 minute trip to Catalina, my boat began having RPM issues. it would drop from 3000 rpm, to 2000 rpm, then back up and back down (I was not touching the throttle at all), until the motor died. Once it died, I could restart it, but the second I put it in gear again, it would die. There was nothing tangled in the prop. I was towed back, I hooked it up to shore power, and the next morning it started, and would go into gear, with no issues, and no change in RPM's. I have not taken it back out. I am now having issues with keeping the batteries charged. Could the issue be a bad alternator? FYI: The vessel is a 1987 bayliner contessa, 28.5 foot. running a ford 429 Thanks, Jimmy
I recently had a Groco vented loop valve stick closed resulting in siphoning that essentially destroyed my diesel. I have heard the Vetus loops are reliable. Have you heard of issues with Groco and do you have any recommendations as to the most reliable vented loops available? Thanks, Bob
Don, I have a 36' Krogen Manatee with a 90hp volvo engine. I am looking for a diesel/boat systems repair course that might help get me to know it better...any ideas? Ken Allington
I am in the process of purchasing a 1998 Carver Santego 31. The boat is in outstanding cosmetic condition, but the owner has not turned the engines over in 7 years. The engines are definitely huffed and he lost interest. He simply stayed on board at the marina a couple of days a week. The boat has 5.0L carberated engines and I was wondering if it would make good economic sense to power up to the 6.2 for fuel efficiency and power. Also, does it make sense to invest in fuel injection?
Don, I looked through the many questions and answers that you have provided to people about batteries. Unfortunately, I was not able to find one that fit my exact problem. I own a 2001 3000 Wellcraft Martinique. The boat is powered by twin 5.7GXi-J Volvo Penta Engines. The boat is also equipped with 30Amp Shore Power, battery charger and a 5kW Kohler Generator. The boat has three batteries. A battery for the port engine, a battery for the starboard engine and a battery for the generator. All three batteries are "starting batteries". My problem is that all of the house load is being pulled from the starboard battery. As it is a starting battery, it can not handle the discharge of the house load. I have tried to contact Wellcraft to get a wiring schematic, but have been unsuccessful in my many attempts. The owners manual makes reference to "Dual Battery Switch", but there is no such animal on board. The only switches for the batteries are simple on/off switches. I'm fairly certain that I should have a battery for each engine, one for the generator and one for the house load (deep cycle). Is this correct? There is really not enough room for 4 batteries, so would it be possible to omit the dedicated battery for the generator and simply pull the power from one of the other batteries to start the generator? Do you have a generic wiring schematic for the proper way to wire up the batteries for my boat? I have found some wiring diagrams on the PERKO website, but it does not show how the battery charger is wired in. Also, I see that some switches have AFD (alternator field disconnect). What is this all about? The only thing I have been able to locate in the Volvo Penta manual is that a deep cycle battery should not be used as the starting battery for the engine. When wired properly, would the alternators provide the charging for the house battery too? Would I operate with the switch(s) in "1", "2" or "all"? I truly appreciate your assistance and hope that you have to time to assist me with my questions! Thanks in advance for your help! Happy New Year. Stephen
Besides checking oil, what can I do to troubleshoot oil psi alarm on my 2006 Mercruiser 5.0L sterndrive? Oil level looks good on dipstick. After running for 20-30 mins between idle speeds and 20mph, when greater than 2500 rpm the oil psi alarm is sounding and pressures are high. My gauge tells me to reduce throttle/pressure high. At this point I let cool and resume normal operation until alarm sounds again. Since oil level is okay, what else could cause psi alarm to sound?
Happy Holidays Don, I have a Yamaha 115 V4 2 stroke motor on my boat. I've noticed a oil leak/streak coming from behind my prop. Is this a simple seal repair or what? If at all posible I'ld like to do it myself to keep cost down. Any suggestions? Thanks, John
Due to unforeseen circumstances, I haven't run my boat for a year. I have a 1995 225 Johnson Oceanrunner two-cycle outboard. The oil is mixed in with the fuel rather than depending on an oil injector system. I am in Florida. I fueled the boat shortly before I ran it the last time, so there's about 100 gallons of fuel in the tank. I added fuel stabilizer (Stabil) when I fueled it last. What do I need to do to the engine and fuel before I start the engine for the first time in 12 months? I've never gone more than a month or two without using my boat before, so I really have never run into this situation before. Thanks.
Hello Don Casey, I have a 2000 Crownline 268CR with twin Volvo Penta 4.3GL Engines and SX Sterndrives. My problem is the boat is getting too much water in the bilge. I hear a rough noise every time I trim the boat with the sterndrives. I have replaced both raw water pumps and have make sure all cooling hoses are not leaking. I was told that the noise maybe a broken ball bearing but I don't know if the ball bearing is broken but the bellows is intact, why the boat is getting so much water.
How do i remove a mercruiser 3.0 engine. Are there any free online sites to help? You advise is greatly appreciated. Thank You
Don, I have a 1976 Grand Banks 42 trawler on my way down the ICW to Florida. I recently picked up a noise on my stbd running gear that I have never experienced in the past. When moving thru the gears (docking/undocking)I get a high pitch squeel sound as the prop and shaft are coasting to a stop in neutral. Underway, there is no sound or vibration on either shaft. I had the shaft packing replaced while in the water a week ago thinking the packing might be the problem. This action did not change the above condition. The sound is not from the transmission, but comes from the shaft log or further aft of the log. On the last haul out (Oct,09) I checked the cutless bearings by trying to move the shafts in the bearing and found them to be tight. I would appreciate any thoughts you might have on this troubling sound. Thanks, Ron Ryland
I have a Sea Ray Sundancer 310 with twin inboard gas engines. With the economy the way it's been, the boat has not left the marina in 12 months except to cruise over to the pump out and back. There are two 100-gallon gas tanks. I have not purchased any gas for over 14 months. There remains today only about 15-20 gallons in each tank. Question: how do I check if the gas has gone bad (water condensation/accumulation, etc). Do I dare add fresh gas to the old? Should I add stabilzer to the old? I'll need to drive it over to the pump out in the next month or so. It's been sitting for so long, I fear the next time I fire the engines up, they'll be trying to run on water, sludge or something worse.
Is it alright to run an ethinol blended gas in outboard motors?
I have a 2006 yamaha 250 2 stroke. Last year I switched the outdrive fluid from yamalube to amsoil synthetic. When I changed it this fall the oil was black. No frothing and not milky but black like old motor oil. The motor seemed fine all year. There did not appear to be any shavings in the oil. I have never seen it turn black, any ideas ?????
I parted out a '64 Pacemaker 36'. Sorry to have to. There were what appears to be the original engines in her - PACER 220's. I presume that these were 327 blocks. Is there a company that deals with rebuilding these engines that may have a market for them. I ask for a couple of reasons. 1- the Admiral wants them out of the yard. 2- I would like to know more about their history Any help would be appreciated very much. Doug DACollinsservices@yahoo.com
Don, This is another "boat insulation" question. I have a 1984 Carver 36 aft cabin. ALL the insulation in the motor compartment and on the bulkhead is disintegrating and must be removed which I cam currently doing. The question is what to replace the factory insulation with? One product, carried by West Marine, ranges in thickness from 1/2" to 1." This is a polyurethane foam product with an Aluminum side and is what I have seen on a couple of other boats. The other product was initially designed for automobile firewalls. It is a fiberglass product also with an Aluminum side. Both are fire retardant,designed for engine compartments, and for use as noise (engine, genset) barriers. Is either of these products (foam vs. fiberglass) superior to the other? Are there safety concerns in using one or the other in a boat engine environment vs. car/truck engine environment? Any other insight, concerns or advice that you would care to share? Thank you. Bill
Dear Don: Once again I need your advice. I use my trailerable pontoon boat average two or three times a month and I have been using the regular Sta-bil fuel stabilizer with no problems. Now I see in the market the new Marine Formula Sta-bil. Should I change to this new product or it is OK if I keep using the regular formula? As always, thank you for your help. Cordially, Hector Brito
Hello Don and thanks for your answer on my question about the solar panel connection. My new question is on how to correct the exact match of the Trim Gauge Indicator with the position of the Sterndrive. My boat has twin Volvo 4.3GL Engines with Volvo SX-M Sterndrive and the problem is that the indicator shows the incorrect trim position of the Sterndrive. My boat is a 2000 Crownline 268CR and uses Faria gauges, thanks.
I have a yanmar 1gm diesel. The alarm buzzer on the panel for hot engine,oil,etc is broken. Is there an alternative buzzer than Yanmar's or an alternative for it. Theirs is very expensive.
I have two 375 HP Crusader engines. When I run it a bit at full throttle then pull back to idle one engine quits and won't restart for several hours. The gauges indicate the engine is not overheating. It does this consistently every time I take it out and is very specific. Surely someone has encountered this before. My mechanics have struggled and Crusader has not been able to help either. There has been talk of the idle sensor, low and high fuel pump, the water to that pump, vapor lock...
I have just purchased a 2008 265 Bayliner Cruiser with zero hours. My plan is to rent a slip at a salt water location where the engine is subject to corrosion. The cooling system is "raw water" opposed to a "closed coolant system" using anti freeze and fresh water. Are there kits available to change the system to a "closed system" to protect the engine from corrosion? What is the cost to have this installed? Would you recommend doing this or just flushing out the system every few months?(the boat will probably sit in the salt water for 6 months at a time). Thanks for the help.
I have a single screw 35'Nauset and am looking for a shaft mounted rope/line cutter. Read current info on 3 types available. Disc style seems safest but only limited success. Please give your thoughts on style/success vs damage risk to scissor and shaver style. thanks bob
Hi Don, I work with Caroline Ajootian in the Consumer Protection Bureau. I am working with a gentleman who has a problem with corrosion on his Volvo outdrive. He has zinc anodes on his boat which are conpletely untouched despite corrosion on his outdrives. He boats in the Pacific/San Francisco Bay and to quote him (who quotes you) "Debbie, According to Volvo Penta and Don Casey writing for Boatus, >>> salt water boats should use zinc anodes. Fresh water boats use >>> magnesuim and boats that are used in both fresh and salt water should >>> use aluminum. This is what my Volvo-Penta Operator's Manual says. "If >>> you are boating in saltwater exclucively, we recommend stitching the >>> anodes to Zinc." I have fished in brackish water (San Francisco/ >>> Sacramento Delta) on 6 or 7 occasions, but the boat has never been >>> stored in brackish or fresh water. My boat came with Zinc anodes, >>> probably because the builder builds boats exclusively for off-shore >>> fishing. >>> >>> There is clearly a problem with the finish on my outdrive and Volvo >>> should be big enough own up to the problem." He owns a 2006 Farallon 26' Walkaround with 2006 Volvo Penta 5.7 GI-F DP-SM 1.95 (s/n 4012176014) .Do you have any advice or suggestions for me to pass on to him? Debbie Schaefer Administrator, Consumer Affairs >>>
I have a 1989 Larson with a 3.7L fresh-water cooled 4-cylinder (165hp). What are your thoughts on switching this older motor to synthetic oil, Quicksilver in particular? Thanks!
I have a Alpha One, Gen 2 drive. I know that there is a shaft seal leak. I have seen a slight shean in the water and my reservior slowly empties, even when sitting. The boat will say in the slip. My question, can the repair wait untill spring? Money is tight right now...it has been an expensive 2 months between a new roof on the house and 3k in car repairs. Thanks
I have a 38 foot Catalina sailboat with a Yanmar 3JH3BE engine. When I run the engine under a full load, after about 5 minutes, the engine starts to rev really high and white smoke starts to come out of the exhaust. I also noticed that after this happens, there is some oil (an ounce or 2) in my bilge. Any idea on what the problem could be? Thanks Dan
hello, my question is about storing oct. - april in calif.with or without fuel (gas)in the tank. i have been told it is better to have the tank full with stabilizer to prevent more condensation on the walls of the tank. please advise. thank you.
I own a 1995 Celebrity with a Ford 5.8 FSI Purce engine and Volvo Penta outdrive. I want to read the codes but no one has the correct reader for this model. My manual says a Volvo Penta MFI Tester is needed and the plug on the engine says EEC-Test with 5 wires coming out of it. One marina contacted Volvo and was told that this was only used for a short time and the scan tool #3863486 is out of stock and well over $400.00. Will an automotive scan tool work for Ford and if so which one? I found a Equus Innova EPI 3145 OBD-1 Ford Scan Tool Code Reader for $24.99, any chance it will work. Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you Michael Jacobs
I have a 1985 32 ft.wellcraft sportbridge with twin 454's (1997) what octane do i use ?
After I drain my 454 Crusader engines of all the water, should I put the drain plugs back in for storage or leave them out until the spring when I am ready to go back in the water? I believe my system is called a raw water system. There is no radiator.
Hi Don, I have a 1994, 175HP Johnson. I am duing winterization. My problem is that the nut holding the prop on is frrozen. How can I get it off to service the prop and shaft. I had it off every year since 1994 but this is the first time I can't get it off. Charlie
I have Twin Volvo KD-300s with Stern drives... My mechanic wants to remove the stern drives every year and reinstall with new rings etc...He states that it's part of good maintenance. I think this is excessive and may just put more wear on the drives by taking them off and putting them back on all the time. It doesn't seem like anyone else does it. Is it neccesary to do every year, every other year or at any time?
Each year when I winterize my Merccruiser 350 IO engines I struggle to remove the radiator hose from the water circulating pump [the quarters are just too tight]. I have thought about cutting the hose and installiing a pvc T with a removable plug to drain the water from the hose and pump. Any problems using a setup like this?
Don, Hello. My 1990 Rinker Captiva 206 w/ Merc. 260 and Alpha-one steers side to side on its own at low speeds. I thought it was my driving, until at about 5 knots, I let go of the wheel. The wheel did not move, but the boat would go back and forth, from side to side, as if it was avoiding a submarine. Can you suggest where I should start to look for the problem (outdrive, prop., etc)? Thank you in advance.
I recently bought a 1979 33' Carver Voyager. She is mechanically very sound, but the Velvet Drive tranmissions are sounding a little tired. Is there a benefit to adding a treatment such as Lucas Transmission Fix?
My 90hp.Mercury outboards no. 3 cylinder has no compression was told by mechanic I don't have the money for rebuild so going to attempt rebuild myself how hard will this be? I do have some mechanic skills but not much when it comes to marine hoping that I dont need to get power head shaved or bored down, any Suggestions before I start on how to tell if I need just new gaskets and seals or complete over haul? I planning on buying book and manual to help also. this way I can learn how to service My own motor and keeping it tuned and running good.
I have a Nova II with twin 350's. One of the motors is locked up and I wont have the time to figure it out this year. I think it is frozen ring or rings. I won't have time to get to it this year. How can I winterize without the motor being able to run?
Dear Don, Having engine trouble with my 2000 volvo penta 3.0l 4cyl, I am an auto tech by trade. Here is my problem, I am hoping you can send me in the right direction. I recently purchased this boat at auction and it appeared the motor had just had a new cyl head installed, It ran great, I took tje boat out for my first run on the river (salt water) and the boat started to ping very badly and then stalled, it acted like the timing was to far advanced and also had been starved for fuel. I found the #4 cylinder not to be firing, after some test I found good spark but no compression, I found that the intake valve had been adjusted to tight, After adjust the valves properly I had gone from 0 compression in #4 to 65 lbs. I then removed the cylinder head and found that the intake valve was slightly bent, I then replaced all the valves put the head back on, the boat ran like new for an hour of cruising at various rpm's and then she all of a sudden started to ping real badly again and lost all power baced fired once and stalled, I pulled the spark plugs and the #4 plug electrod was partialy melted I replaced the plug and Have compression still but under a load she pings real bad, Any thoughts on what this could be? all tune up parts are new, I added seafoam to the fuel, is it to lean? when it begins to ping I lose most my power. if I come to a stop and start out again it wont ping until I am at cruising speed for a minute or so. Thank you in advance for any ideas you may have on this problem.
The OMC outdrive on my 1990 four winns 255 sundowner seems to be corroding even though the zincs look OK. I thought the "zinc saver", was hooked up incorrectly as one side of it was connected to the positive side of the battery. I switched the lead to the negative side of the battery, but the problem persists. I don't believe the Marina has reversed polarity as it was completely renovated five years ago. The corrosion seems to be a white powder that is pitting the surface all over the outdrive. The boat is only in the Marina a week a year. It is stored on a trailer most of the time with the batteries turned off. Any ideas on why this is happening?
I'm getting ready to store my cruising boat on shore for the winter. What is the newest thinking for storing the E10 ethynol gas - full or empty tanks? (with stabilizer, I presume) Thank you. Fred
I have a 94 hurrican 240 with what i've been told is a chevy 350 inboard.with a yahama outdrive.my problem is the motor will turn over but no fire will go to the plugs. what do i need to replace to get it going.any info would be more than i have now.thanks
I have a 1987 Tiara 31 open with twin 454 Crucaders, the problem is I can't get over 2000 RPM. boat ran fine all last year and started to give me a problem just before taking out of the water. So far I have tried new gas. new gas filters and have installed new fuel seperators. Had the Carbs rebuilt, new points, condensor,cap, rotors, and spark plugs. Also the one way valve at the gas tanks. Both motors do the same thing I hit antwhere from 1500 to 2000 and the motors just sart to stall out. also smells really bad ! Kind of lost for the answer ! Thanks for any help or suggestions.
Dear Don, I was stuck on the water for over 5 days this summer until a young mechanic decided that he was not going to give up and finally found my problem. There is a 90 degree nipple coming out of my gas tank that connects to my anti siphon valve. In that nipple is a fine mesh screen that had gotton clogged with debris from my fuel tank. I don't understand why this screen is there since it is place prior to the primary fuel filter. Volvo will not answer me. Is this screen necessary? Does it protect the anti-siphon valves function? Please help! Dan Charna
Hi Don, what is the fuel capacity of a 2003 cobia 174cc. I just purchased it and have no manual. Thanks, Skip
I have a volvo inboard on my 1985 Scanmar 35 sloop. I remember the original owner mentioning something about regularly greasing the packing gland. Is this something I should be doing and if so, what type of grease should I use and exactly how should I proceed? He showed me a metal "cap" that can be unscrewed, does this make sense? Thanks
1981 mercruiser 260, most of the time it idles ok But as of yesterday it dies when I put it in gear?? is it most likely carburation or electrical? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Ralph
I have a 1987 chris craft with a 454 crusader engine. I lose compression after about an hour or so when going 14 knots on the starboard engine. What do you think the problem is? Thanks
I have a Mercruiser MPI 350 I/O in a 28 ft power boat. I started the engine last weekend and it ran for less than a minute, sputtered and died. It will not re-start. The batteries are good and it cranks strongly. The only thing that has changed recently is that I put about 100 gal of gas in it about two weeks ago - and have since put about 1.5 hrs of underway time on it. I got the gas from a marina which does a lot of fuel business so I assume it is good. The engine has a Mercury fuel-water separator/filter that is similar to an oil filter. Can the sparator/filter be the problem ? If so - can it just be cleaned or have to be replaced like an oil filter? Any tricks to doing this ?
hello, I took my boat out for the first time in the week. Everything was fine at 6 knots, when I brought her up on plane I lost rpm's immediately. The engine was knocking and puttering. I limped home and it died when I engaged reverse. It did start back up, but was knocking very badly. It is a Yamaha 4-stroke 250. any idea what might cause this?
WHERE IS MY OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT LOCATED ON A 1993 454 7.5ltr ?
I recently replaced the ignition module on my I/O merc cruiser. Does the timing need to be reset and if not set would that cause damage to the head gaskets and get water in the cylinders.
Gas is getting into my oil pan. The carbarator has been rebuilt, I've replaced the fuel pump. Can you give me some insight in where I should look next? Thank you.
mercury 150 outboard 2002 need info to replace impeller
I have '97 Formula 34PC with twin 454 Mercrusers [gasoline] & Bravo 3 outdrives. Engines came with spin on fuelfilter/water separators attached to each engine [currently 10 microns]. Each engine also had installed in line Raycor filter between the fuel tank and engine when our area began the use of 10% ethanol. What should be the micron size of the Raycor primaries? Also, is the secondary 10 micron spin on filter [attached to each engine by the manufacturer] the proper size[microns]for my situation? I run summers only at Jersey shore and mostly gas up at the same reputable marina with 89 octane and usually some Valvetec additive at each fueling. I change all filters once a year. Does it matter if the change is in Fall or Spring?. No problems in several years but seems many fellow boaters have so many alternate ways of keeping their fuel clean that I now have doubts of what I am doing. Confused, Frank Schmidt
I just bought a 24'Albemarle with 5.0GIS Volvo Penta Jackshaft (used with 190 hours). Ran fine the first couple of times, then two outings ago, ran hot when I went over 2500RPM's. Took the engine in for service, they cleaned the heat exchanger, new impeller and serviced the waterpump. The last two times, when I ran the boat in the back bay, it ran fine at any speed. When I ventured out into the ocean, two times the engine started to heat up while in rough seas (running around 2800RPM. I am thinking I must be getting air in the system due to the rough seas, but have no idea if that is the answer or even where to look. Any suggestions?
hello don i have a 41 formosa sailboat and i am having a noise from the cutless brg a sqeek to the point the cutless will stop i think the cutless is comming apart. this beging a full keel boat the stern tube is about 6ft on this particular boat with a bronse housing held on by 4 studs .my question is does this bronse housing come off so replacement of the cutless brg can happen ...it seems to be seal with maybe 4200 sealant on the back side of the bronse.. i removed the studs but the housing will not move,, do not want to break shaft log...just want to move bronse housing to press out old brg.stuffing box is ok... so i want to leave the shaft if possible and remove prop...and just slide it off...i am a mechanic but on big trucks trans and rears... i just nedd to know that taking this housing off is possible and does it just come off or screw off...thanks so much allways two heads are better than one....mike mccarn
I have a 1985 Bayliner 2550 Ciera Designer Edition with a 5.7 V-8 My outdrive is frozen and i have been unable to locate a model number on the unit itself. Can you tell me what outdrive model came on the boat or is appropriate for this hull/engine? I am looking to pick up a used replacement and I'm guessing it to be a 270 or 280, but am looking for confirmation. Can you help me?
I have a 1996 Yamaha 225hp 2 stroke outboard on my 23' wellcraft coastal. The boat sat from last August because of an injury to my shoulder. By around Thanksgiving, I realized the boat needed to be winterized. I had my friend go out with me to take out the plugss & sray the cylinders with fogging oil & lube the fittings with marine grease. I dumped a bottle of fuel treatment in the tank. Then we put the cover on the boat & parked it alongside the house for the winter. I had shoulder surgery over the winter that kept me from duing anything over the winter. Needless to say when I pulled the cover off the boat & toopped the tank with fuel, the boat started, but was running very poorly & finally stalled & wouldn't stay running for more than a few seconds I tried changing the plugs, & fuel filters but that didn't help. I took the boat to Extreme Marine & was told the carbs were all clogged-up with fuel that had gelled over the winter. They rebuilt all 6 carbs & he told me the fuel that was sitting in the fuel lines & carbs had gelled over the winter. He told me that fuel with the new ethanol content only has a shelf life of around 30 days in the tank. He said that I needed to run the boat until the fuel in the tank was used-up then get fresh gas & put a fuel conditioner (Like Starbright) in to help keep the fuel fresh. When I got the boat back, I hooked it up with a pair of "Earmuffs" in the driveway, & started the motor. It still runs very poorly & it keeps stalling. I think I might need to get the fuel tank cleaned ^ have the 100 or so gallons of gas that's in it cleaned, (If that's possible) My question is, "Am I correct?, & Who do I bring it to?" I'm totally lost on this. Please, Any ideas? Don T. Old Bridge, NJ
I have a 1989 Larson All American 190 DC with a Mercruiser 3.7L/165hp engine with a closed cooling system. This year the original exhaust manifold rusted through and allowed a small amount of water into the engine and crankcase. After the replacement, which involved two changes of oil, a valve tap has occurred which the service tech suggested was due to picking up some of the oil-borne water. The technician suggested running the engine (at less than full speed) for a few hours and then changing the oil again (using synthetic oil) to try to pump up the collapsed/stuck hydraulic lifter. Would there be any value in adding something like Seafoam, Lucas Oil Treatment, Marvel Mystery Oil, or Rislone for a few hours before changing the oil to try to loosen up the stuck lifter?
I recently had an oil pressure sending unit break and dump all the oil into my bilge. Is it necessary to flush a diesel engine with fresh water after use? The oil cooler on my '77 Westerbeke 40 builds up a hard white substance at two small fittings. I think this caused the oil sending unit to break down. Also what is the best way to clean up the oil stains in the bilge? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Love your magazine. It is the only one I read cover to cover as soon as I receive it. Keep up the good work, we boaters need all the help we can get, especially with our government!! Sincerely, R.W. Soder
! have a 1989 Searay 260CC w/a Mercruiser 7.4L I/O. when I start The engine I get a Warning buzzer sounding. What is the warning Buzzer trying to warn me of?
Don, My 70/hp Merc is bolted to my Boston Whaler's tramsom with 4-1/2" type 304 stainless bolts. After reading this month's(JUL) DIY article, I'm wondering if these bolts are strong enough. Should they be replaced with grade "5" or grade "8" bolts.?? It's a trailered fresh water boat used 5-6/hrs 7-8 times a season. Therefore the 2 bottom bolts are not continually submerged throughout the season. Your advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank You. Tom Rodgers Weaverville, Calif.
I have a Yamaha V150TLRC, the tilt indicator on the digital gauge shows the tilt all the way up. Where is the sensor for this on the outboard. I have looked at the Yamaha diagram and cannot find where or what it might be. Jay Alva, FL
I have a 1988 Bayliner 2155 with a 5.0 liter OMC. When on the trailer and I put the transmission into reverse, the prop spins freely. Once on the water however, when put into reverse the motor runs up, but the boat does not move backward at all??
Hi, Don I have a 1995 3570 Crusier Yacht with 454 / MIE 7.4 Mercruiser. which are freshwater cooled. I just finished replacing the Manifolds - Spacers & Risers with the OSC Kit. After start up and running for 4 hours on a short trip I notices that after the 30 minute approach to my dock area at idle speed a slit whisp of steam coming from the exhaust ports on both engines. When the engines are started cold this does not happen Is this a cause for concern or normal?
I have a 2006 Four Winns 278 Vista w/Volvo 5.7 liter gas i/o. While running the AC system the odor of fuel comes into the cabin through the AC ducts. The AC air intake is in the rear cabin and the fuel tanks are located under the floor in the same rear cabin. Additionally, while removing a foam pad from the rear cabin to store for the winter it also reaked of fuel odors. Any ideas on how to rid my cabin of the fuel smell?
Where is the temp sending unit on a 1975 mercruiser 120 hp engine?
Does the original fuel tank in a 1983 gas powered 32' Hatteras express that has been in storage need to be replaced due to risks of ethanol? After what year did fiberglass fuel tanks in high end gas powered boats not have to be replaced. Thanks.
Don, I have a 27.5' Maxum ski boat. It has a 3.0l MerCrusier sturn drive engine. Is there any way to slow the rust inside the engine? I flush it out every time I take it out into Chesapeak bay. Do they sell any thing that might slow down Rust Out? Any help is great. Thanks:
Hello, I have a question regarding the Walter V-drive. On 1981 Crusader 270. The T handle dip stick which I believe is the Transmission part of the unit, has Milky oil in it and seams to be leaking out the bottom of the bell housing. Could the reason for the milky be a leak or is it that the fluid never was changed and now is so thin and watery that it is leaking out of the seal?
How do you know when it is time to replace manifolds? What are signs and symptoms?
Don, I can't seem to get my Kohler 5E genset to run. Last year, after changing the impeller, fuel filter and cleaning the clogged carb, I had it running ok. After sitting all winter, it took a few attempts to start. And when it finally got running, it ran smoothly for about 1-2 minutes. Then it begins to run rough, starts to back fire and stalls out. Each time I start it, the same running pattern occurs. Before I take it apart again, thought you might be able to provide me with some leads as to what the problem may be. thanks, John
I just purchased a 1975 SLICKCRAFT with a 188HP mercruiser i/o. When I Started the Engine with a set of earmuffs to provide cooling, This was on the dry, I believe the impeller blew out thru the exhaust. How much trouble am I in?, and can I replace the impeller myself? If so do you have any manuals outlining this operation ? would be more than happy to purchase same. thanx, Richard
I have a 2002 True World Marine with an early 2002 Yanmar 6LP engine. I have heard and read many stories that this engine was recalled, class action suit, extended warranty etc. but have no clear picture as to what action Yanmar took. That is if Yanmar took any action at all regarding the early 6 LP engines. So please, if possible, set myself and others straight. thank you. Jerry Reilly, Amityville, NY
I have a 2003 SeaRay 270 Sundeck with a 6.2 Mercrusier and Bravo III I/O. I am told that I should replace the Exhaust Flappers as they appear to be damaged and could cause water to leak into the crankcase. I have searched the net for information on the Net on how to replace the flappers and where to buy them, but have not found anything useful. Do you know of any sites that I can check out to purchase the parts and where I can see pictures or instructions on how to perform the repair?
i went to start my 1983 carver mariner last week and i thought the starter was frozen on the port engine. i tapped it, still clunk . then i pulled plugs on the rt bank and found coolant in the second and third cyl. oil looks fine and was running when berthed 4 weeks ago. i have put tranny fluid in those cyl's until i can find out what i fear. thanks rick gilbert
All last summer we had trouble getting our prop down on our I/O Trophy. We would have to put the boat under power to get it fully down. When we took our boat in for winter maintenance the mechanic told us the hydraulics were messed up - he a difficult time getting the prop down, he had to jump on it. How expensive will the work on the hydraulics be? I want a ballpark idea of how expensive of something like this should be so I can tell if I'm being taken advantage of.
I am replcaing the original exhaust manifolds on my 1988 Mercuiser I/O with the GM 350V8 engine. The aftermarket manifolds from Sierra part #SIE18-1953-2 do not have ports for the drain taps like the original manifolds had. Should I have a machine shop drill out and thread the ports so that I can install the drain taps or is this not necessary? John Chakiris Atlanta, GA
Don, the instrument cluster/ignition enclosure on my Cal 33 (1986,Yanmar 3GMF) has broken apart from age/uv. My question is can I run the engine by jumping the starter at the engine with the key/push button used for starting disconnected from its harness. The battery isolater switch should give me 12v at the starter and diesels don't need 12v to run(do they?). I want to run the engine this way till I can fabricate or buy a new enclosure. Thanks, Dan.
water on cylinders. I had a shutdown last fall and found after much effort at starting that I'd ruined the starter and damaged the flywheel. The shop (chaparral dealer, I have a Sunesta 232 1997 w/ Holley 4 barrel carb.)said I had water on the cylinders in 4 of 8. they drained it off and the engine spinned and upon assembly started and ran fine. They stated that there are no flappers for this unit (volvo sx/cobra). Last week it stalled on the lake and luckily I had a tool set and removed the plugs, spun the engine to spit out several cups of water and reinstalled the plugs. The boat started and ran fine. Is there reasonable answer why this happened? What can I do to prevent it. I don't tow any skiers, don't go fast and stop suddenly then speed up. The boat is housed in a marina with no wake or wave action. I'm baffled, do I simply ride around with a spark plug wrench?
Dear Don, I am in final stages of buying a 1972 Allied Seabreeze Citation. The boat's original engine, a 24HP Sea Scout, was replaced by the current owner with a 13HP, 1985 Volvo-Penta. As the boat's displacement is 13,400, this seems way under powered to me ( I've read estimates of 3-5HP/Ton is needed). What steps should I take to repower? Where can I find rebuilt diesels? How do I determine if they will fit? etc., etc. Mike
I need a drop-in replacement for a 10 hp 1973 vintage Farymann A30 M diesel. What can you recommend for manufacturers or modern engines?
trying to change oil for first time. read you guide for changing wondering if a 1/4" copper tube might break the dipstick or pull it out? do you simply clamp short gardenhose to copper tube and connect hose to pump? some guys on my forum say they have hoses the go thru teh bilge drain. can i devise a permanent drain hose that won't over heat? how would you plug the exterior end and still go out he bilge hole?
At the end of last season, I had a new Honda 20 hp. outboard installed on my 13' Boston Whaler. The motor was installed by a local reputable dealer (who also services my 24' Grady/250 Yamaha), so I've developed a trust with his abilities. The Honda was prepped for the water and ready for launch, but when it was completed so late in the season, I opted not to launch and avoid winterization. The mechanic/dealer then recommended, since I was not putting the boat in (he winterized it on the spot when I told him this)that I should return in the spring prior to launching and have it prepped for seasonal use. I'm generally a pretty cautious person when it comes to boat maintenance, but this seems excessive to me, it seems I should be ready to put the boat in the water and begin the break-in of the new engine without further service. Can I do this or do I still run the risk of damaging the new outboard and/or voiding the warranty? I'm trying to save money in these tough economic times without undue risk. Thanks in advance.
Don, I am looking at a 21', 1997 Wellcraft Excel SL Cuddy Cabin. Overall the condition is average for a 12 year old boat, but the thing that caught my eye was the built in 35 GALLON fuel tank. The plate on the tank indicates that the tank is made of 'CHOSSLIN POLY', maufactured by Moeller. Can you comment. Does alcohol effect this type of material. If there is even a marginal chance, I need to keep looking. John Flynn
I have twin 2004 225 4 stroke yamaha's. Exactly where is the pitot tube located on the lower unit and what is the best way to clear it as the speedometer no longer functions. Thanks Fred
Don, I have a 2001 chaparral 240 5.7 bravo II. when at idle turning wheel port or starboard i hear what sounds like a grinding can be in or out of gear. any ideas?
Don, I have a 2006 Carolina Seachaser, 18' rolled gunnel center console that I bought new. The engine is a 2006 Yamaha 90hp four cycle. What I do not like and also consider very dangerous is the fuel/water filter is located in the bilge, which is lower than the fuel tank which is located under the deck. When I change the filter it siphons the fuel out of the tank faster then I can install the new filter. I had a boat mechanic install the new filter figuring he knew something I didn't know. He had the same problem, told me not to bring it back. He said, no other place to install it except in the battery box. I do not think that is a good idea. I have talked to some other boat mechanics at the boat shows and I have had what I consider two possible suggestions. Install an anti siphon vale or a brass ball valve in the fuel line to the filter. I gas the boat up at filling stations when I tow it. I have even considered doing away with the fuel filter entirely. What is your suggestion? I am a retired airline Captain, safety and the environment are my primary concerns. Thank you, I read all of your articles and look forward to your column. Ken Degler.........................Kend7@aol.com 2 Grell Place Robbinsville, NJ 08691
I have a 1985 Bayliner capri with the 125 Volvo and the 275 stern drive. My question is I have finally found where the cooling problem is located and was able to bypass the area for the time being to ensure the rest of the cooling system was working properly. The temperature while the boat is idling is about 200 degree, is that too hot. I could also tell exactly when the thermostat was opening up inside so I would imagine now would be a good time change that as well. Would you suggest to get a thermostat that allows the engine to run cooler than what it is running now. I don't know how hot it would run on the water because I have not taken the boat out since I found the problem. Thank you for your help, Ryan Zak
Don,I have a 1987 Wellcraft with a 7.4 liter MerCruiser engine which has been rebuilt and has less than 100 hours. I purchased Osco Manafolds and Risers which came with gaskets. The gaskets have failed and I ended up with hyrolock which has caused me to pull the heads and have a valve job done. Have you heard of anyone that has had the same problem with the Osco gaskets? If so did they get any response from Osco as to helping them with the repairs that have to be make because of the faulty gaskets. Thanks Boatlover1
when replaceing an outboard motor water pump must the lower unit have to be disconected to replace to rpelace the impeller and housing
I am looking at a 1979 42' Gibson. Much of the boat has been updated over the last ten years. The engines, however, are original twin 270 Crusaders. They have had an electric ignition system installed, but everything else is original. Plugs, plug wires, etc. have been replaced. Compression tests on cylindars are all within normal specs, except on one cyclindar that has a slightly lower than normal compression. My question is: How reliable can these engines be, they are 30 years old. They have been well taken care of and received regular maintenance. How long can they reasonably be expected to operate? I am not sure if the hour meters are accurate but they have about 1100 hours on them.
Hi Don, Read your article Zincs,it was alot of help! I have a hanging guppie (zinc) between my outdrives. I have it connected to the neg terminal of my battery.Is this a good way to tie it in? I was told it was??? Any help would be great. Thanks, Don
Electrolysis Prevention--I have twin outboards on my sportfisher that I keep in salt water. Due to the steering linkage, I am not able to completely raise them out of the water while at the slip. Both engines have zincs but they are not in the water with the engines raised. Do I still risk electrolysis with a portion of the lower units in the water but the zincs being out of the water? If so, suggestions on how to minimize electrolysis with this configuration? Thank you.
Hello Dan ; I have a mercruiser i/o 350MAG, MPI 2003. The engine now seems to surge up and down throughout most ranges. At higher WOT it runs much smoother. But it still can surge at the higher range. I have done the following to correct the problem 1. replaced all plugs(old one's were in excellent cond.) 2. removed the anti-syphon valve at gas tank and also removed the gas pickup tube and checked filter - no problem with that or filter 3.replaced both water seperating filters - old one's had no water 4. checked ALL gas lines and clamps - not plugged or worn 5. changed oil 6. when boat was winterized, I had about 30 gal left which I treated with sta-bil. when boat went back in I filled up at a land service station and put in approx. 70 gal. moter still surged and would ran smooth off and on. I put in star-tron at the curative rate and after a while motor seemend to get better BUT it still does not want to STEADILY run smooth. WOT Still surges but not as much. 7. Ran boat for quite a while to see if these adatives would work. (SOME SLIGHT IMPROVEMENT) I added more gas about 60 gal. after my shakedown cruise and again added star tron no change. 8. finally added sta bil for Ethanol, and I still get the surging and the motor will not always run smooth. However, when the motor is running correctly it humm's like its new. Dan I have tried everything I know of and really need your help ASAP. This motor is a 2003. I bought the boat new and the motor does not use oil and has never done this before. I do the maintenance mostly myself so I know the care it gets. Other than the sporadic running and surge problems the engine runs smooth. their is no skipping and it sounds and runs like it always did. Thank you for your help. Wayne George Please try to respond as soon as you can!
I have purchased a used 97Angler center console. My steering is frozen. I have disconnected from motor and loosened up connection to wheel. The wheel will turn when the cable is loose. Do I just repalce the cable from the wheel to motor or should I replace steering box and cables. Thanks in advance. Walter
Don, Two years ago, I winterized my boat for storage. I drained 90 percent of the gasoline in my 60 gallon tank before storage and added stabilizer. I did NOT run the boat at all last summer. What should I do before I start it this summer? Thanks, Tim
I have a 2000 yamaha 225 hp motor. The listed primer bulb for this motor is 6y2-24360-52-00. I have asked mechanics at four different boat dealers, what size hose I should use. They all say 3/8,account I could damage my motor if it did not get enough gas(run lean). The ID of this primer bulb barb is 1/4, the ID of the yamaha fuel hose coming from the motor is 5/16(8mm). Recomended fuel hose under the deck is B1 or A1(not sure), both are very stiff. It would be difficult to tighten the 3/8 hose on the small primer bulb barb. Wouldn't 5/16 hose be sufficient.
My Bayliner 2850 Express Cruiser with 7.5L Mercruiser I/O has been stored on land for 2 1/2 years. I originally dosed the fuel with standard stabilizer, then one year later with a "high end" stabilizer that promised longer life (can't remember the name). I now have a buyer and will need to sea trial the boat. Can I use the gas in the tank? Should I add new gas or run out the old. Any suggestions on readying the boat for service would be appreciated. Thank you.
I have an 1989 Four Winns 245 Vista with a 5.7l engine (260 hp)and OMC Cobra outdrive. It has difficulty getting out of the hole even using the buit-in trim tabs. I'm considering adding a Stingray or Doel Fin hydrofoil but have read mixed reviews about how it impacts the stability of a boat once on plane. What is your suggestion re: a) hydrofoils, b)which model do you think is best for my boat and c) will it help? Thanks.
My eyes glaze over when I read the inevitable "Lubricate all fittings..." on layup or recommissioning checklists. Lubricate with what? WD-40? Vaseline? Crisco? KY? Is there really a universal lubricant that you can use on all "fittings," or is fitting lubrication in fact a fine science that one is expected to master before he is qualified to start messing about in boats? This particular lubricationally challenged sailor would appreciate it greatly if a little light were shed on the subject. Tx! David Laing Stockton Springs, ME firstname.lastname@example.org
I have a 1997 Bravo 2 outdrive on a 454 block. every time i start the motor i get a glob of gear case lube that rises to the surface, the leak does not continue in that volume, after the initial loss it is just a very small loss as i use the boat. i have had every seal in the lower unit replaced and it still does it. i have spoken to 2 marine mechanics that i have known for over 10 years and they are both completely confused.
Don, I have let the grease in the trim bar tube that the motor pivots up and down on turn into wax. Is there a way to heat this up and inject more good grease into these stopped up fittings. I don't want to use a torch if at all possible. 1996 Johnson 150 Thanks. Jack
Don Casey please answer me a question about Ethanol 10 Gasoline I own a 23 foot Polar walk around with a plastic 150 gallon gas tank it is now 2 years old Last August I topped of my gas tank to full and when I covered it in November it was between 1/2 and 3/4 full I added a product called E-zorb which is supposed to stop phase seperation and I added Sta-bil to the gas Now I read an article saying that I should have filled the tank to 95 percent full but later on in the article it said the shelf life of Ethanol 10 is only 6 weeks before is starts breaking down The article went on to say only add enough gas to your boat that you will use in 6 weeks do we really need boats off shore with that low amounts of fuel in there tanks ??? what ever happened to the 1/3 out 1/3 in and 1/3 left over that I was taught Why should I fill up my gas tank and let a 6 week life span gas be in my gas tank for 4 to 5 months ??? Is there a product on the market which I can test my current gas to see if phase seperation has contaminated my tank before I start up my outboard this spring If the gas is bad what do I do ??? is there a company which can suck-out my gas tank and dispose of this bad gasoline What do I do ???? There seems to be alot of opinions out there but no facts Signed totally confused Please E-mail me back or call if you need more info 609-352-0975 Bob Hoffman
Don, We are looking at a '97 bayliner 4788MY that is powered by Cummins 315HP twin diesels. The reported hours are 750 port/stbd. I knew that the boats came with 330hp and an optional 370hp. Are you aware of any reported issues with the 315s? Thanks, Sean
I live in Florida and I have a 2009 Mariah 23ft. I take it out in the intercoastal twice a month and flush it every time I take it out. My mechanic says that I must replace my Exhuast Manifold every three years. Is that correct?
I want to replace the zincs on a Bravo III drive. Do I need to scrape away the paint where they contact the drive or will the screws provide the electrical connection?
I am getting cavitaion burns on my prop at the junction of the blade and the hub. I have looked for something that may be in the path of the water to the blade and connot find any reason. I have not added anything new to the underside of the boat. Can you help Thanks
I own a 1982 CC 281 Catalina with twin 305K engines with Paragon transmissions. I bought the boat last fall and was able to use it for a few weeks before layup. The boat pulled(tracked) to the right. I have checked the transmissions and they seem to be matched and original. The starboard trans was removed and new clutch plates installed. I have the work order. The props seem to be the original props. There are numbers stampped on them to LH 717 Chris Craft 1982 and RH 716 Chris craft 1982. When I had the boat in the water last year I removed the holding tank and gave a good visual inspection of the rudders and tierod between them. I have the boat on a trailer now and have looked at the rudders and squareness to the hull. Nothing seems to be out of line or loose. Last fall I tested the reaction of the boat with various RPMS and it seem to correct the steering if I backed off the throttle on the starboard side and kept the port throttle eith in 1/2 or 3/4 position. Any comments would be appreciated. Nest I am replacing the sea pump impellers and all the hoses and belts. Do you have a recomondation for high quality replacements? Mark Hazelquist
On a fuel injected yamaha outboard is it ok to fog the engine by feeding a quart of gas with a mixture of Marvel Mystery oil and fuel stabilizer from a seperate tank while running engine? The marina that I bought the engine from does it this way and I have been doing it myself the last two years.
02/17/09 Hi Don, Can't get the new same size 1/4 inch flax back into the nut. What's the trick? I only have about 8 inches of room on the aft sides of the shafts. There is a stringer on the foward sides, approx 2 inches away. As you probably know this job is done upside down. Very frustrating. Thanks for your help. Ron Bachem Holland, MI
I have a 1977 Silverton with twin 318's. The starboard motor, when under 80% throttle or more, starts to hesitate and cut out. It never dies and the port engine runs perfectly. At lower rpm's it is fine. I have tried changing the fuel filter with no change. Could it be the carburetor or ?
Hello, I have a 1985 Chris Craft Scorpion with a 350 Chevy engine 260hp. Last year we were skiing with my son's friend(6)of us total. When a skier was finished skiing & I would returned to retrieve the skier, the engine would stall as I reduced the speed to a stop. Then it appears to flood as I try to restart. It would eventually start only after sitting for a while. This was repeated throughout the day.The battery is strong & I use Mercury fuel system cleaner with each tank fill (70 gal cap). At skiiing speed, there is no hesitation. Can you help. Thanks ....Jim Parente in New Jersey
I've been following an engine swap, This individual is using an automotive TBI injection system. I mentioned that I had heard from a marine surveyer that return lines on gas powered engines is in direct violation. I can't seem to find the rule anywhere. Do you have any insight.
Hi Don: I have a Farymann 1 cyl. ~ 9hp diesel and a newer muffler on my 1978 Tartan 10 - both there when I bought the boat. Last summer I discovered (after replacing the water pump impeller and noting the water was now gushing while the engine was running!) a loose fitting exhaust hose. I was able to crank down the hose clamps to stop the flow of water, but noted that the clamp was effectively crushing the hose. This was fine for the rest of the season, but now it's time to see if there should be a better solution. The manifold end fitting is about 1 9/16" (the Farymann, of course is German, so maybe it's metric) and the muffler end fitting is about 1 11/16", so a constant diameter hose obviously has to be distorted at one end or the other. The hose is only 12" long. It seems to me there are three solutions and I'd be interested in your opinion and any better ideas: (1) find some sort of custom hose in the right size, like an autombile radiator hose, which may be very difficult and time consuming; (2) re-fit a new, constant diameter, hose, as close to the muffler end ID as possible (maybe a 1 5/8" would fit) and clamp the manifold end tight, as before; (3) try to plumb using some sort of reducer in the middle; this would be more elegant in terms of right sizing, but would add a set of hose clamps, reduce ID in the reducer by the thickness of the material, would reduce flexibility - there's only 12" in the first place and vibration of a 1 cyl. diesel is notable - and parts might be just as hard to find as a custom hose. Please let me know what you think. Dave Brezina Chicago, IL 60659 email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org (312) 214-4802 (work) (312) 259-5326 (mobile.
I have a Carver Mariner with twin engines . I Boat only in fresh water.I have heard tha zinc does not work well as an anode in fresh water. I have been told I should be useing aluminum on my rudders and shafts. If this is true where can I find aluminum anodes for a 1-3/8" shafts. Thank you for your help. FiftyFifty
I have a 2008 Yanmar diesel engine that is having corrosion problems with the oil pan already. What can be done to prevent corrosion on this apparently cheap "tin" type oil pan?
Good day, I have twin 1965 Monel 75gal gasoline fuel tank's, They have never been cleaned. As you may imagine this process is due. Would you be able to guide me on a heading toward's achieving this process ? The local answer I have been recieveing is to replace the tanks. I do not believe this is truely nessecary. The tanks appear to have taken the years well but after numberous fuel system failure's I believe the solution is getting them cleaned. The pick up tubes although I have trimmed them a tad to are still picking up debris from the tank's. On the hard in Portage Indiana waintin for spring!!
Don, Four years ago we bought a 1973 Chris Craft Commander 36' Tournment Sport Fisher. The boat was repowered in 1990's with Commander 454's. The props appear to be original with three blades. With fuel costs so high, has technology come up with any more efficient prop over the years to move the boat through the water? Cookie Betts
Here is the problem. I have a 2006 Mercruiser 5.0 EFI with 190 hours with Bravo 3 outdrive and freshwater cooling in a Bayliner 265 SB. All was well last time I used the boat in Septemeber. I got underway to haul the boat out for anode replacement 10 January. The engine started fine and idled well. As I sped up, I recieved the loud engine gaurdian alarm, constant beep until I throttled back. I noticed the RPM was just over 1100. My oil pressure and temperatures were OK. I checked all fluid levels before operation and after the alarm. I disenegaged the drive and pushed the throttle to get the engine up to 2000 RPM and did not get an alarm. So, what thoughts might you have on this? My current thoughts are temperature/water flow related but not sure and not sure what would cause this. Thanks for any help. I feel it is a simple solution
Don, I have a 2001, 35' Chaparral express. The power is dual 8.1 inboards. I am having an issue with a differential in temperature in the seawater cooled exhaust manifolds on the port engine. Incidentally, this is the engine that is hooked up to the heat exchanger in the hot water tank. With the port engine warmed up, and the engine rpms at 2000, the temperature that is measured at the port manifold reads ~130 - 135F. Under the same conditions, the starboard manifold measures ~110 - 115F. If I compare to the operation of the starboard engine, both manifolds are consistent with a measurement of ~120F. Closed cooling system coolant temp is identical at 160F. I have replaced the sea pump (slight leak), replaced both exhaust manifolds, cleaned all seawater lines from the sea pump to the closed cooling heat exchanger, cleaned the transmission and closed cooling heat exchangers, closed cooling engine flush, inspected the risers for blockage, replaced all of the exhaust manifold temperature sensors, cleaned the sea strainers and verified the proper operation of the check valves attached to the exhaust manifolds (w/ water rails). The sea pump pressure is consistent between the two engines when running at 2000 rpms at ~28 psi. Additionally, I can physically feel that the port riser is warmer than the starboard (so I am not loosing my mind). Do you have any additional suggestions for me to look into? I am close to the end of my rope on this. My fear is that I could have a blockage in the port head¿s closed cooling system that would require a tear down. :( Please advise. Louis
I have a 22ft. Angler Walkaround powered by a 200 HP 2-stroke Yamaha. The prop is 19 degrees, 14.5 inches. At wide open throttle the rpm's are 4800 - 5000. The specs on the engine say it should run at 5400 - 5600 rpm wide open. The engine runs perfectly. My question is should I make a prop change and if so to what pitch? I know you probably need more info but anything you can offer might help. Thanks.
Don A thru hull problem caused the bilge on my boat to fill with salt water. Some of the water went down the oil dipstick and now I have a white gooey mess. I changed the oil once, but did not get all of the goo out. What can I do?
I am going to use VP 5.7Gi-300/DP-S with stainless steel props to repower my 26.5' Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge 2650. Which combination of the gear ratio (1.78, 1.95, 2.14, 2.32) and a prop size (F2-F9) will provide the the best performance? By "best performance" here I mean getting on plane fast and traveling at least 25 Knots when heavily laden (for example with 8 adults on board and towing a skier). Reaching maximum possible speed with only 1 person on board is not required. The boat is rather heavy (6000 lb) and has a wide beam (9 ft. 6 in.) so some guys advised to use 1.78 gear ratio and F4 prop. Would other combination give better results?
i presently owned a 17 ft. with a 90ho mercury im looking to upgrade. i need an education on the pros of & cons of evenrude vs mercury. i have been very happy with my mercury.
Is there a standard time period for exhaust manifold replacement. My marina reccommends every 12-14 years. Does that also apply to closed cooling systems?
DON -- I have a 2004 Mercruiser 5.0 MPI with remote oil filter. I do my own oil changes and have yet to remove the filter (which is mounted upside down) without spilling oil into the bilge. I have used many rags around and under the filter, to no avail. Seems like a lot of oil flows out when the filter is loosened. Any suggestions? Also, last month while winterizing, for the first time in years of removing oil filters, I could not get the filter loose. I bent two filter wrenches in trying, and also bent up the filter. I followed the filter manufacturer's instructions when it was installed, so it should not have been over tightened. Any suggestions on getting this filter off? Thank you, Mike Downs
when doing my winterization of my tohatsu 9.8 hp outboard the head of the carb drain screw broke off as i was turning the screw back in. i am left with the shaft of the screw in the drain thread. any idea how i could extract this without pushing it into the carb reservoir?? thanks
Hi Don, I have twin 8.1 L Horizon Mercruiser inboards on my 2007 Harbor Master 400C (which we bought new). After about one year of cruising in both salt and fresh water, the starboard engine dies 3 or 4 times a day. There are no alarms and no fault messages from the electronics. The port engine has recently started to die as well. I have heard about corrosion problems in the Mercruiser Gen III Cool Fuel Module causing this problem. Have you heard of similar cases? Mercruiser may replace the Cool Fuel Modules but the problem will persist and the corrosion will continue in the new units. Is there any way to prevent the corrosion from occuring? Thanks for your help.
I have a fresh water cooled 454 Mercruiser with a through hull pick up. The outdrive was always removed by the previous owner for winterization, however, the drive was removed and repaired in late Aug, the gimble bearing and boot are fine. My question is, in order to winterize the motor would I have to run 2 seperate water lines, (1 to the fresh water flush, 1 to the outdrive) or just the one to the flush fitting. The boat is in my yard, would I still be better off removing the drive? Thanks Rich T
Dear Mr. Casey, I have enjoyed reading your knowledgable column over the years. I have a 1980 S-2 Sloop rigeed sailboat with an original Yanmar 1GM 8 horse power inboard, that is now 28 years old and getting up there in years. It still starts and runs well, but I notice that it has always produced some black-oily residue in the raw water cooled exhaust port discharge astern of the boat when under power. Is this normal for an older diesel engine? I wondered if the exhaust smoke naturally mixes in the water muffler of the engine, and this is a normal bi-product. I don't want to contaminate the salt water we sail in, in Hampton, VA. on the Chesapeake. I also wondered if you had advice on trying to get more power out of this very low powered diesel, which struggles to move this large sailboat with a 2,000 lb. keel. Is a switch to a 3 blade propeller worth the trade off in increase drag created under sail? My last question is the engine has no oil temp. gauge, only a warning light. Can I install an oil temp. or RPM tach gauges to help monitor its performace? The baby Yanmar is old, but seems to be well built and reliable. I don't want to "throw the baby out with the bath water." Thanks, Jeremy Rowan email@example.com Hampton, VA.
I operate a 40; Webers Cove rigged for stern trawling. It is powered by a GM 6-71. The owner had the fuel tanks replaced (two 100 gallons each) equiped with seperat feed and return fuel lines controlled by shut off valves and the tanks are tied together with a pipe so both tanks can be drawn off at the same time. The problem is at times there is "burping" from the overflow vent. I am at a loss as to why this is happening. I do not recall this situation occurring in the past. Do you have any suggestions?
We have twin 150 Yamahas. We live on the Oregon coast and run about 300 hours annually. We flush them after each use with Salt-away or equivalent. Recently we came across a product called "Superflush" which pulsates water through the engine. Before we spend $500 (for 2) on these units, do you think they work as advertized? Thank you. Eric & Julita
Hi! I own a 1996 Bayliner 1952 powered by a Mercruiser 3.0 LX four cylinder sterndrive. It has developed a leak in the front of the motor manifesting as oil thrown from the alternater pulley onto the side of the engine compartent. Any ideas as to the cause or fix?
I have a 1990 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge equipped with a Bravo II outdrive. While power washing the bottom of the boat preparing it for winter storage, I noticed the bead of caulking had come loose where it "oozed" out around the gimbal housing. Will it be sufficient to run a new bead of good 3M caulk around the housing on the outside or, in your opinion, will I need to have the entire outdrive removed and recaulked? As you know, the latter gets expensive. Thanks
DON... I HAVE A 1968 UNIFLITE CONVERABLE 31FT WITH TWIN 318 CHRYLER'S... CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT SIZE PROPS WERE ON IT FROM THE FACTORY?? NOT SURE OF THE REDUCTION GEAR RATIO... IF YOU DON'T HAVE AN ANSWER COULD YOU STEER ME TO SOMEONE THAT CAN??? JIM
hi i am replacing my stuffing box on a 28 ft silverton it has a vee drive i removed the box today and noticed that i have a stern tube that is bolted from the outside it is a self aligning shaft log with a 4" long hose which is connected to the inboard packing nuts my question to you is what is the piece that the oppisite end of the hose is connected to ive looked at new stuffing boxes and have not seen that tail piece with the new stuffing box. its a 4" square plate with a 2" extension pc. where the other end of the hose connects to my guess would be its called a stern tube i could be wrong help
I have a 1997 Trophy , with a 1997 120 Force Mecrury outboard . When I turn the key to try to start it half the time it wont turn over , and I can here a clicking sound coming from the motor . Somtimes it starts right up and somtimes I just get a click . It seems to be getting worse . Is it the starter going up or mabe just a bad connection ?
Does all gas in Maryland marinas have ethanol? Do "you" think that it is best to leave the gas tank close to empty over the winter layup - or to leave it close to full with stabilizer in it? Thanks, John
Dear Don: I recently fueled up with diesel off a truck rather than from the marina I normally use; due to price ofcourse. I know the fuel off the truck doesn't have the valve tech stuff added. Should I add something to this fuel for normal use; and should I add a stabilizer for winter storage. I am fairly confident in the fuel because quite a few of the big sportfish guys buy from this company. Jim Persson Bay Shore, NY
Don Casey I'm confused. I have a 36C Silverton with twin 315 HP Yanmars driving through ZF transmissions. Last week I heard a loud bang and lost power on the starboard drive. The engine did not stop, just no power to the prop. When I looked in the engine room I discovered that the transmission had exploded, pieces of the case, gears and oil all over. The next day, I had the boat hauled and inspected the running gear. At first glance it appeared that all was OK. I then had the prop and shaft pulled and checked. This more detailed inspection revealed that three prop blades and the shaft were slightly bent. I assume that we must have hit something. This happens. What bothers me is that the transmission appears to be the weak link in the drive train. I was under the impression that the shaft keys, coupling or transmission clutch were supposed to shear or slip in order to protect the transmission and engine. Have you ever heard of this type of failure? Am I wrong in expecting the keys to shear before the transmission fails? My confidence in this boats reliability at this point is about zero. Spare props I can understand spare transmissions I have a problem with. Any comments or expert opinions will be appreciated. If it will help, I have photos or the transmission and running gear. Dave Boxmeyer firstname.lastname@example.orgI
I would like to replace the seals, rubber bushings, hoses and other parts on the prop shaft of a 1970 Albin 25 motor/sailer. Do you know any source for these parts original or after market? Sincerely, Dave Pape
I Am looking at a SHOWROOM condition 1999 Sea Ray 290 with twin Mercruiser 5.0L. Owners have babied this boat and have at the very least performed recommended service at recommended intervals. We personally know the owners and the boat shows better than ones only slightly used. Have never seen a used boat this mint. The engines have 850 hours and it is priced accordingly. Assuming a generous maintenance schedule what sort of life expectancy can I expect from this boat's engines/drives? What sort of repairs, overhaul work, or replacement work can I expect and at what cost? What would be worst case or best case secenarios? Thank you four your time! Scott
hi. i have a 28ft silverton with a 360 chrysler inboard hooked up to a paragon tranny vee drive my question to you is i would like to go to another make tranny with a new vee drive the parts for what i have now are becoming very hard to find. i would like to install something i can get parts for and would mate with the bell housing i now have would there be any problems with that or would i have to make drastic changes. also how can i tell if i have a reduction gear
Don, I hope you can provide some guidance to a lingering problem I am having with a 1986 Searay 25' Sundancer with a 350 Chevy/OMC 800 drive set-up (with points and the ESA module). I have owned the boat for 3+ years now and am yet to have it run efficiently. My problem is that the boat runs great for an hour/18 miles and then starts to loose RPM and then usually prohibits me from running above 1,200 - 1,500 rpm (and even then very roughly) until i get back and clean the fuel filters/carburetor to try again on the next trip. Sometimes i am able to get it to 2,500 RPM by taking the throttle back and forth, but many times it ends up dying altogether when i do. I have a auxiliary steel fuel tank that did have some crap in it, but the residue that i now see in the filters does not appear to be enough to cuase the problem (maybe it did initially) now. There are 4 filters in play (one from the steel tank as it drains into the main aluminum one, one clear glass one from the main tank as it goes into the fuel/water filter at the fuel pump on the engine and the micro filter at the base of the carb). I usually see a bit of black powder-like stuff in the clear glass filter and nothing usually in the carb micro filter (but the glass filter does contain more air than fuel at times when i check under way). It has been suggested to switch to an electronic ignition, so i have ordered the Pertronics conversion kit - do you think that will solve my problem? Any other ideas? I am about ready to give up. John Simi Valley, CA
I would like to purchase a 1999 Wellcraft 22 Walkaround O/B. While checking the boats condition, I noticed that it has a Plastic(not-metal) gasoline tank. I'm concerned about the e-10 issue i've been rading in seaworthy with non-metal tanks, where can I get information to see if this fuel tank is subject to that corrosion
dear sir: I have just purchased a 1980 sailboat w/ the original diesel-13 hp 2cyl volvo. The transmission oil is low and I need to top this off. The boatyard has been using 15w-40 but I have seen old quarts of 10w 40 on board. I don't know what is in the tranny. Any harm to use 15w 40 to top off? thank you, david
I HAVE A 1976 251 CHRIS CRAFT CATALINA 307 INBOARD W/PARAGON TRANS,SHE SHIFTS INTO REVERSE BUT WHEN I GIVE HER GAS SHE SLIPS,SHE RUNS FINE IN FORWARD ???????? THANKS
I recently purchased a 1982 Carver Mariner with twin Crusader 270's my problem is exhaust noise, each engine has twin exhaust above the water line,the noise is LOUD, my question is dose water flow affect the noise level and how do I check this out. I'm wondering if the manifolds are not clean and water flow is reduced would it make them louder, my engine temps are fine about 160. I hope you can help me. Fred Huber P.S. I'm hoping it,s not the nature of the beast..
The Racor Gasoline Fuel/Water Filter/Separator bowl is full of ethenol. Appears liquid is only alcohol without any smell of gasoline. There is only a very small amount of water noticed separate from the alcohol. Engine idles roughly when bowel is in this condition. When bowel is emptied and reinstalled idle returns to normal for an hour or two running time and the draining of the bowel occurs again. The fuel tanks have been pumped dry and refilled without any noticeable change in the condition. This is the first 10% mix that has been used in this boat. I have heard other similar grumblings since the 10% mix has started being used in our area. Can you shed any light on this? The area is Dania Beach / Hollywood FL.
Hello, I have a 1992 Mercruiser 7.4 closed cooling engine. I have to add approximately 10-12oz of coolant every 3-4hrs run time. The oil in the base looks fine (on the dip stick)(not milky) even after 50hrs use. I did however notice a milky looking substance plugging the two ports on the flame arrester. The engine seems to run perfectly fine and only has 900hrs. It did spend it's first 5yrs in salt water however. I don't see any visible leaks in the bilge area. Your help would be greatly apprieciated. Thanks Jeff
what is the average number of hours to replace a prop shaft on a sea ray 330 express cruiser v drive
Hi Don, I own a 1986 31ft. o'day sail boat with a two cylinder universal diesel. The diesel has a idiot light for the oil presure, and I would like to replace it with a gauge. I bought a faria gauge and sender, but the sender is much larger in diameter then the stock switch and will not clear the manifold. can I just add a length of pipe to get the sender beyond the manifold or is there a better way to mount the sender? also what do you use to get the old switch off? thanks for your help, Bill
I recently purchased a 22foot 2001 premier pontoon with a mercury 4 stroke 100 hp outboard motor same age. Under the motor housing, there are 2 fuses side by side, 1 should be a 30 amp flat fuse, the other is a 20 amp. On one occasion, where there should be a 30 amp fuse, I found a 25 amp fuse blown. At this time, I replaced it with another 25 amp fuse. On the second occasion, the 25 amp fuse blew again. It was at this time that I noticed a tag indicating that a 30 amp fuse should be there and not a 25 amp. It was then that I replaced it with a 30 amp fuse. What does this 30 amp fuse protect? If a 25 amp fuse was in place of the 30 amp fuse,would it be a reason for it to blow? On both occasions, once I replaced the fuse, the motor ran. Prior to the fuse blowing, there was never an indication of any problem, no overheating, no smoke, nothing. Just stops. I am very concerned about having my family on the boat when this happens. Thank you for any information that you can give concerning this. Very much appreciated, Robert
I was docking a 28 foot Catalina Sailboat with a Perkins inboard engines. I gave the boat a little reverse throttle to slow my approach. The throttle got stuck and I couldn't shift out of reverse. Have you heard of this happening before? Thanks, Peter P.S. No damage to the boat or anything else, but it was scary.
I purchased a 2004 31 Formula with 6.2 Mercury engines\Bravo III stern drives this year. My question is related to winterizing the boat and the ethanol in the gas problem. I saw a product called E-Zorb that claims to disperse and emulsifies water and ethanol back into the fuel allowing both to burn efficiently and safely through the engine. It claims to fix phase separation of water and ethanol in the bottom of the tank and replace it back into the fuel. Do you have any info on this product? I was just going to use the stabilizer and fill the tank but there is alot of conflict out there as what is the correct thing to do with the new fuel with ethanol. Do you have any recommendation on this. Thanks, John
Don I have a question concerning the ethanol in the fuel. There have been many articles written concerning water and separation. I have been experiencing a problem since I took the boat out of winter storage. When I laid it up in the fall, I put fuel additive in. When I tried to start the engine (225 Yamaha), the carbourators weren't getting any fuel.When I traced it back, I found in my water separator bowl a brown sludge that fell to the bottom. I also noticed that the inside of the fuel filter was rusted. I replaced and cleaned that. Then I found that the squeeze ball check valve was frozen and had to replace that too. Still no gas to the carbs. Yamaha has a check valve in the fuel line by the carbs that I opened up and the ball was all corroded and locked up. I replaced that and the engine finally started. As of now, I'm still finding tan colored fuel settling in the water separator bowl. The engine breaks up between 1000 and 2000 RPM but runs fine at full throttle. I've used the carburator cleaner. The gas tank is steel and only 3 years old. Can you tell me what the tan sludge is that is settling at the bottom of the separator bowl. Would you agree that the carbs should be cleaned and rebuilt? Thank you Paul
Aluminum prop and Steel Hub ? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a simple question. Does an Aluminum prop have a steel hub or is the Hub aluminum also? I lost a prop in the Lake and was wondering if I could retrieve it with a powerful maget. I know the aproxmininity of where I lost the prop and it's in 20- 30 ft of water. I'm not a diver.
Hi, I have a 1988 kohler 6.5 generator. It runs great. It will run all day. As soon as I drive the boat for a while, running the 2 454 engines, the gen will shut down, no fuel getting to it or if I start the gen after running the boat, it will start right up but only run for a couple of minutes, again no fuel.I am assuming the heat in the engine room from running the engines has something to do with it. Any ideas what may cause this? The gen has a mechanical fuel pump. I have changed the water sep/filter. I don't know what else to look for.
Don I have 2004 8.1L Mercruiser Engines in my 1994 Sea Ray 370 Sedan Bridge. The port engine has been drooping back to 1000 RPM's. I have it at Oceanport Landing Marina here in NJ and they can not find anything causing it. They have had other experts from nearby marina's run out with their computers and latest software and one of the guys computer actually says the engine will shut down in 5 seconds and it does. They have run it out with virtually every sensor unplugged except the cam and crank sensors and it still does it. They have switched sensors and computers between engines and the result is the same. The cam and crank sensors (I believe I have this right) can not be removed because the engine will not run and they can't be swapped between engines. mecruiser has told them these results are impossible, that is, the enginine is running to specs on the computer showing no error and still shutting down. Today they are running it out and will copy the computer results and send a cd copy of the results to mercruisr for them to look at. Anything like this been encountered before to your knowledge? By the way they have run it out with computers plugged into both engines and the readings are about identical for both engines. Sincerely, Frustrated in NJ Jim Ott 732-489-3637
Hello Don.I have Yamaha 150'S and would like to kwow how to add hydrolic fluid to the power tilt and trim units. I am having trouble finding the filler port. Your help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for help Henry
We are shopping for a Catalina 380. What is the expected longevity of a Yanmar 3JH3E engine that has spent its life in saltwater.
Hi Don, I have a Galaxy SportExpress 226 with a MerCruiser MR190 I/O. This year it has developed a problem with the starter having enough power to start the engine after it has been run for 15 minutes or longer. I have replaced the starter with a brand new starter and looked at the cables and had the 1 yr old battery checked to no avail. If the boat sits overnight the next morning it fires right up. I cannot recreate the problem if I run it on the trailer and shut it down and try to restart, only when it has been run in the water and then we shut it down for a period of time and try to restart. Have you seen this problem before or have any ideas on what is casuing it?
How do you boil out the heat exchanger? It is a salt water to fresh water heat exchanger off of a 350 Merc Cruiser 1979. It doesn't leak, just needs to be cleaned out.
We purchased our leftover 2002 Bayliner 285 brand new in 09/2003 & it came with a Mercruiser 350 MAG with a Bravo III outdrive. In May of 06 (about 450 hrs on engine), we had to have our long block replaced because the serpentine belt fell off, the engine overheated during the 10 seconds it took for us to hear the alarm, put the engine in neutral and turn the key off. We were told by MarineMax Sarasota that water got in the engine and that "sometimes that happens" in cases like this and we were forced to pay for a new long block which would be covered by a one year warranty for parts and labor. Five months later in Oct 06, we couldn't start the engine on our lift and we were told by a mobile marine company that there was water in the engine. So back we went to MarineMax who agreed to pay for another long block, but charged us labor because they said THEY did nothing wrong. In May of this year, 2008, we were coming home from a week's cruising vacation, and the serpentine belt came off, the alarm went off, we put the boat in neutral and turned the key off - again - all in about 10 seconds. Back to MarineMax again, only to hear that water got in the engine (again) & we need another long block (again). Now I know we're past any kind of warranty period, but 3 engines in two years? Mercruiser refuses to accept any kind of responsibility and again wants us to pay another $10K. Oh, and the best part, we just heard from MarineMax saying that they found water in our stringers in the hull and that has to be repaired, as well. Although the hull is still within the 5 year warranty period, Bayliner still accept no responsibility nor will honor the warranty. We're at the end of our rope and were hoping that you knew of someone we can turn to - perhaps your mediation service - either with Mercruiser, MarineMax and/or Bayliner - could help us. No one can tell us that we did anything wrong. Anything information you could provide us with would be greatly appreciated! Mike & Kerri
My outdrive on my boat was in salt water for 2 weeks during our recent vacation in Clearwater,Florida. During this period it accumulated alot of barnacles on it. Is there an easy method to remove them ?
My question has to do with a muffler (silencer) on my sailboat. I have a Perkins 4-154 and was cleaning the engine cooling system. To check for blockage I tryed to run water thru the muffler, via a fresh water dock hose and it did not past thru and out the exhaust outlet. Did I mess up? Should the water have flowed out?
After a few months of inactivity, I took out my boat (sea Ray 320) with mercury 6.2 horizon engines and to my surprise the boat would vibrate and go very slow when pushing up the throttles. What would cause the boat to not go over 8MPH at full throttle and vibrate so much? Thank you so much
Dear Don, I need your help. I have a 2007 SunTracker Fishin'Barge 21 pontoon boat with a 90 hp 4 stroke Mercury outboard. The propeller is a 14x13 aluminum 3 blade. The designed rpm range at WOT is 5000-6000. Every time I try to get the WOT, just pasing the 5000 rpm mark, the engine rpm increase really fast beyond the maximum recommended 6000 rpm, and I have to reduce quickly the throttle setting without getting the full throttle. Please, advice what can I do. Once more, thank you for your help. Hector Brito
Hello Don, I've got a problem and was wondering if you might offer any suggestions or ideas. My Boat blew up last Friday night just inside of the 6mph limit leading towards the Inner Harbor. Thank God for Boat-US and the provided Towing Insurance. I hope to be uping that amount by next year. Anyway, my problem started as a strange sound coming from the rear of the boat. It sounded like I had caught trash on the prop; thumb-thumb-thumb. So, I stopped and picked up the engine/prop to find it was perfectly clean. Next thing I knew, I had no power at all (i.e. 12VDC). So, the prop stayed up. Later I found the little wing nut post on the positive terminal had melted and broken off. I have since removed the wing-nut cable connectors and installed traditional battery clamps. That problem solved. But my BIG problem and the reason for this email is what caused the thumb-thumb-thumb from the engine, a 1995, 225 HP Johnson/OMC, 2 stroke outboard. I called XXX, of the now defunked XXX's Marine and asked for his help. He has previously done tune-ups and carburetor adjustments to keep the boat running. He called me back yesterday with the bad news. I'll quote; "Piston #1 and a small part of Piston #2 have melted. The engine is going to need a complete rebuild, or replacement. Cost to rebuild $5000, cost to replace $15,000". That's a lot of money for the wife and me. He left the (as you face the engine from within the boat) right head off. I can clearly see a black scorched piston (top) and the associated bottom of the head on the 1st cylinder is scorched as-well. Maybe, it's me but the other two cylinders look like the engines new (i.e. clean and shiny). I don't see anything bad with them. But I wasn't using a microscope either. Questions: Does XXX's solution sound plausible? Are his prices in the appropriate ballpark? Can you suggest another person/company I should get a quote from? Can you think of any thoughts, other solutions, options, or possibilities? Looking forward to your reply Bill Machia BoatUS Member Since 1987 email@example.com
I have a 1999 Silverton 442 with 502 EFI Crusader motors. Just turned 600 hours. Engines run like a top except they love oil. Is this normal. I do not get any smoke or black on my white transom. After a few hour cruise I can easily put a quart of oil or more in each motor. Someone mentioned trying synthetic oil, but at 3 times the price, IF I use the same amount I would seem to be throwing money away. I have only had the boat for a year and a half so do not know if they used a this much oil since new. ?? TK
Hi Don, I am trying to remove and replace an impeller and raw water pump on a 1988 Searay Sundancer, 340DA 7.4 ltr. mercruzer. I dont have good access and am trying to find out the most easy procedure to remove and replace. any help would be greatly appreciated
Don:I have a '81 Harbor Pilot with a 2GM Yanmar.Are the oil filters sold by that number or do I need to be more specific? Thanks Jim
I have an 1983 28 Bayliner flybridge. I replaced the original Volvo 350 GM engine with a Mercruiser 350 in 2000. It still has Volvo outdrive. I am considering converting to electronic ignition. I see two types on the market. One is a one piece drop in the other is a kit that repalces rotor inside distrubuter cap. Which is preferable? Is this something I can do myself?
Hi don, Im thinking of replacing the fuel pump on my 1989 4.3L 175 HP Mercruser engine. the replacment will be baised upon age not so much performance. good ideal or not. thanks
Don I have a 1988 Bertram with a fiberglass gas tank. I see I'm going to have no choice but to use E10 in my next tank of gas. Is it going to dissolve my gas tank? Is there a safety hazard there? Any suggestions short of selling the boat? Jim
Don, I have a 1988 Suzuki 9.9 on the tender of my new (to me) 47 Defever POC. The P/O removed the oil injection tank and lines and was apparently mixing oil in the gas. I have replaced all the parts but am not sure where to plug in the low oil sensor wiring to the loom. There is a blue wire and a black wire on the sensor. I found a blue wire in the harness but no black wire location. There are three possibilities I see, a red wire with a double plug, a yellow wire with a double plug and a red wire with a yellow stripe on a double plug. Any help which one? I could try plugging into each one and eliminate the obvious but thought I would try professional advice before "Tuning for Maximum Smoke", so to speak. Thanks, Jim MacDonald firstname.lastname@example.org
I have a 1977 251 251 Inboard Catalina Chris Craft with a 1 inch shaft. I detect a very,very small amount of play up and down when grabbing the shaft at the prop. Is it possible to change the cutlass bearing without removing the strut from the boat? I see two small allen head set screws and understand the bearing is also a light press fit. Thanks in advance. Joe
I have a 1988 40' Silverton with 454's fresh water cooled. They are losing water from the heat exchangers. I noticed steam from the engines when powered way up, but no steam during normal operation. The engines are original (1300 hrs) but run fine. Could this be a head gasket or does it have to do with the exhaust/cooling system?
SUBJECT: Can idling hurt your marine diesel? Hi Don...I've been told that idling a diesel marine engine or using it in idle just to charge batteries through the alternator when cruising causes cold running temps which can lead to engine problems and a shorter engine life. Others tell me "nonsense"...diesel trucks in cold climates are left in idle 24 hours a day with no ill effects. Can you advise who is right...and if idling does cause problems...what is the nature and likelihood of such problems? Thanks in advance for your response. Regards...George Barr
I have a 2007 mercury 25 hp 4 stroke,The power trim does not work at the shifter,but it does work at the motor,Any ideas. Thanks Mark Beatty.
I have a fiberglass gas tank (CL100) and have, of course, been using gasoline with ethanol. My Larson has been running fine for 20 minutes or so, and then cutting out. It will cut back on with much hassle, but quickly dies again. After only a day, it starts over again. I have checked the fuel level, pumped two gallons out full of trash, added alcohol to tank for water absortion, cleaned carburator (interior), and replaced fuel filter. It is a 4 cylinder Mercruiser 3.0. Could this be caused by the gas tank reacting with the ethanol? I've about run out of options here.
I've just purchased a 1978 CHB 34' Trawler. The engine kill switch doesn't. The surveyor told me the solenoid needs to be replaced. Is this a generic type part or is there some engine specificity associated with the part? (1978 Lehman 120)
I have a 1983 Carver. The fuel lines are not marked J1527 but rather USCG Type A. They have never been replaced. Can you tell me if they are OK for ethanol fuel or do I need to replace them before making the transition to E10? Thank You
I have a 5.7 1999 mercruiser Alpha 1 with an aluminum prop which is black and has been painted numerous times. I recently stripped all the paint off the prop. I wanted to buff (shine) the prop and use it with out painting it. My boat is trailered and does not sit in the water all summer, only when we are using it on the weekends. Is not painting the prop black going to cause issue or will the prop be fine not painted. In short - Shine VS painted Thank you Jason
Now that we are getting Ethanol blend gasoline, do you have a recommendation on fuel additives to promote better combustion and/or internal fuel system cleaning and lubrication or reducing internal engine carbon buildup?
Hi i just bought a boat from a guy who thought he knew how to winterize it. he poured rv antifreeze into the motor oil, so naturally it was extremely milky this spring. i have down 3 or 4 complete oil changes on the boat in the past 2 days, i wanted to make sure that i flushed everything out. a mechanic just told me that i still may not be in the clear because of some sort of chemical in the antifreeze that could affect the bearings in the motor... the motor is running great and the oil is staying clean. i took it out for a sea trial today and when i got it back home. the oil was good as new, should i be worried about the bearings?
I have a 32' 1989 Albin Sportfisher. It has a 300 Cummins diesel engine with a Walter V-drive. There is a 10' driveshaft and 22" prop. There is a serious vibration somewhere in the drivetrain. Any suggestions? Thank you. K. Gaines
Don't know what I was thinking---or not, but I reversed polarity when installing new batteries. A new fuse got the twin Yamaha 225's started and all instruments and oter accesories are working properly. However, the batteries will not charge. What do I look for to correct this? I believe the engines are putting out a charge but not reaching the batteries Thanks Fred Angelo Williamsburg, Va.
I have a Racor 500 FE fuel filter & water separator on my Westerbeke L25, circa 1978. I've tried to find a Racor website and have been unsuccessful. I need to find out what the process is for changing the filter. Thanks Don for your help!
Don,Got in my 18'Stingray-checked all the fluids turned the key to start. Amp gauge did not register-boat would not start. All other swithches worked. Finally determined that the fuse was blown. Replaced that and off I went. Shut the engine off turn the key fuse blew again. Replaced that and came back to my dock before anything else could happen.Checked all the wires from battery to instrument panel-none frayed/exposed. Any ideas what could cause the fuse to blow. Regards Bob Edwards
Hello, I have a Nissan 5 hp outboard. There is air blowing thru the telltale, the intake and the two small holes at the front of the L/U but no H2O. Do I have to replace the impeller?
Don, Originally the return lines were returning in the bottom of the tank near the pickup tubes. We since have cut the return lines and the fuel now dumps in from top of tank. It did not solve the problem. Any other ideas? Joe Gurski
I have a pair of Yanmar 440's with racors as a primary filter.I have small air bubbles coming into the racors mainly at lower rpm's. The pickups were replaced, pressure tested all lines and fittings,rebuilt racors, and still have bubbles.Also noticed that fuel level dropping in racors.Recently ran the boat from Florida to North Carolina eight hours a day for 5 days.After monitering fuel level daily noticed Day 1 level dropped 1 1/4 inch day 2 2 inch day 3 2 1/2 inch. All measurments were taken with racor cover off and fuel filter depressed.Boat was still under warraty and factory referred me to racor tech support.Tech said that this was totally acceptable. As long as the fuel level doesn't fall 3-4 inch or the engine boog down or cuts out. Needless to say by day 3 I topped off the filters as I was running outside. What are your feelings?
My 1998 CC ProLine 240/Mercury 250 EFI Offshore is getting harder and harder to shift into gear and throttle up. I suspect the cables are gumming up. How should I proceed? Please advise. Thank you. Joe
I have a 1997 Seaswirl WA with a 1996 Johnson Oceanpro 175 motor. I was just notified the dealer who supplies my dockside fuel will be switching to E-10 ethenol. Is it safe to use this fuel in my boat, and will it affect the efficency of my outboard motor?
me again! i have now finished the exterior of my 1980 Bruce Roberts 44' ketch with new Awlgrip insignia topside, trinidad SR bottom paint, new water line stripe and the miserable job of recaulking the teak deck with polysulfide. now i need to select an engine to replace the old Ford Lehman 80HP diesel. i am leaning towards a 100 HP Yanmar turbo or possibly their 75 HP turbo model. the old salt in my yard likes the 75 HP Westerbeke naturally aspirated model versus a turbo for simplicity sake. i do have powerful tidal currents to contend with in the savannah area thus i was leaning to the 100HP engine. i would love to have you weigh in on the subject. is it possible to have too much HP? is the turbo versus a naturally aspirated engine a really big deal? would you have me check into any other engine manufacturers? i really appreciate your help as always... doug
I need help settling a debate with another boating friend of mine. I recently replaced my (original)blower motors (2) on my 1998 Sea Ray 400 Sedan Bridge, using the same factory models that came with the boat. One at a time, I mounted the new motors exactly as the originals were, with the flow direction arrows pointing up and out of the boat. My friend, (who has a 6-pack captains license) says this is wrong, as the bowers are supposed to suck air INTO the engine compartment, therby replacing and forcing out combustible vapors through other vents in the engine room. I have never heard this before, as I always believed that blower motors were designed to suck air OUT from the bottom of the engine compartment to the outside. Can you help me, because if he's right, I (and the factory) have mine backwards, and could be waiting for a dangerous explosion waiting to happen.
I up-graded to a Mercury Saltwater series 90 horse about 4 years ago. It has the oil tank in the cowling so I don't mix in with the gas any more. Last year I bought a new aluminum trailer that is taller and longer and therefore my boat that was garage kept now sits outside. I have had to change my primer bulb 5 times in the last year when before the move outside I'd only replaced it a couple of times in 13 years. I use the boat alot, on average once a week. I live in Florida and fish year round. Could the problem be the combination of heat and no lubrication in the bulb cause it to fail or is there some other problem? I've tried different brands of bulbs with the same results.
Looking for help on the procedure to replace sea water impeller on a Mercruiser 350 MAG MPI Horizon --2005. Do I have to remove the entire pump housing (which looks like one bolt holds the bracket to the engine) Thanks Rich Favarulo
DON; AFTEER REFUELING AT FT MYERS BRIDGE, PORT ENG FLUCT 1500 RPM +/- AFTER POWER REDUCTION. THEN RAN NORMAL. DID THIS 2 MORE TIMES. NEXT AM OPER NORMAL 1 1/2 HR UNTIL 1ST IDLE, THEN FLUCTUATED AGAIN AFTER POWER REDUCTION. CKD BOTH ENG FUEL FILTER/SEPARATORS. LITTLE OR NO WATER. CANNOT FIND ANOTHER FUEL FILTER AFTER TALKING TO MARINEMAX AND MECH. COULD IT BE A VALVE(S)?? THANX AL VORAS
Hi Don. I got water into my diesel fuel tank (Yanmar 3 GM 30 F. The water overwhelmed the racor primary filter and entered the engine. I tried to bleed the fuel system in the engine the best I could (I can't bleed the injection pump due to a frozen bleeding bolt). I tried pumping fresh fuel into the engine by using the handle on the lift pump. However, the engine will not start. What other actions should I take to protect the engine and get it started again. Of course, I will drain the tank and replace the fuel lines while I am at it. Best regards, Peter Haver
Don: I've read that some gas docks in Cape May New Jersey have ethanol fighting additives in the gas deliverd for marine use. If this is so,is it allright to add over the counter ethanol additives in addition after fueling? Also,please advise on which particular product you would use. I have a 1995 25' Proline w/a with a 1995 225 h/p Johnson. Thank you for your time.
Hi Don, I have a 2004 Chaparral 215 SSI, with a VolvoPenta 5.0 GL SX I/O engine. I bought it new and have done the maintenance by the book. When I take it in for service they note that it is well cared for. I have also been a happy Boat US member since I bought the boat. I have 2 questions. 1. One thing I have not been good about is putting gas stabilzer in the tank when I put it in storage for the winter. Sometimes I do, mostly not. So far it hasn't been a problem, but I fear that with time it will take a toll. I live in southern California and put the boat in storage last September. The 50 gallon tank was about 3/4 full with 87 octane fuel purchased at an Arco automobile gas station (I always use this gas). It is now late February and I still haven't done the gas stabilizer and am worried about the reduced octane and build up of gum and water in the system. I was looking at auto octane booster & gum reducer products, but won't use them unless an expert says it's OK. What is the best course of action at this point? 2. The alarm that sounds when the engine is started and then goes off, started sounding continuously a couple of years ago. I was out on the Sea of Cortez at the time and it scared the heck out of me. I disconnected it and everything has worked fine since then, except the CO detector also sounds all the time and has since shortly after I got the boat. I have long since disconnected that (not a good idea, I know). I've long wanted to resolve this. Before taking it for service I thought it might be worth it to test the Co detector and if it is faulty, replace it. But I don't know how or where to test it. Maybe I just need to take it in to someone who does electrical work on boats (can you recommend anyone?). I will not take it to the local Chaparral dealer as their service is awful (for example: they once gave my boat back to me 2 months late and then when I put it in the water it wouldn't start.) Do you have any suggestions? Thanks for taking the time to read through all this and for any advice. Sincerely, Robert Leonard
How is "cruising speed" determined for best fuel economy?
Hi Don! I just bought used Sea Ray Sundancer 260, yr 2004. The lower part of the outdrive is damaged quite bad by corrosion. The paint bubling, the edges not straight etc. Suprising for me when the sink plates look almost like new new? I guess I need to sand it well, all bubble places off, make the edges straight etc. But after that, what is the best way to stop/slow down this corrosion? Should I put also some primer paint? Any recommendation which paint is the best?I have read no tin/copper paints, how about regual oil-based enamel? Or what would you recommend? Appreciate your advice Don! Rgds, Mikko
During the routine winterization, I noticed that the interior surface of the exhaust thru-hulls had significant surface cracks. I have not noticed any leaking, but would like some advice on repair before I launch in the spring. Should I try to just repair the interior surface of the exhaust thru-hull, or should I completely replace it? The thru hulls are fiberglass, and are just below the waterline.
Hi Don, I have Mercrusier 260 with an Ahpha I drive in which I am replacing the water pump in the lower unit. The water outlet from the outdrive is not connected and the water exits out the top towards the stern. The engine raw water intake is taken from a through hull fitting and the pump is belt driven. Do I need to install the impeller in the lower unit since this pump seems not to provide useful cooling? Thanks, Matt Sears
Don, thanks in advance for any help, and sorry for the length of this. Last summer I purchased an '88 Maxum 17' bowrider with a Force 85 outboard. Frequently (although not always), it was a challenge to restart the engine out on the lake. (Generally not a problem when first leaving the dock.) You would hear a single click coming from the key switch when the key was turned, but the engine would not crank. After turning the key several times, moving the shifter around, re-priming the fuel line, and a uttering a few colorful phrases, the engine would eventually restart. Sometimes within a couple of minutes, sometimes as long as 10 or 15 minutes. This sometimes happened shortly after the engine was turned off, and sometimes after an hour or so, which tends to rule out over-heating. A few people have suggested the neutral safety switch, which makes some sense. Does this seem likely? How difficult is it to replace this component? Where would I find one? (I've had no luck searching on-line!) Again, thanks for your help! David
Don: Do hydrolic trim tab lines have to be bled after filling resovoir up with fluid? I can hear the motors working but the tabs do not move. I would appreciate any help from you. THANX!
Help!! Just had my 2005 34PDQ hauled for bottom paint, etc. Stern tube cutlass bearings need to be replaced (both shafts can be moved slightly) and I am told they will have to use a sawsall from inside to cut away the bearings. Getting there from the inside will be quite a feat- even for a very small, long armed person! Is that the proper way to do that or can they be removed by removing the outside collar on the stern tube? Yanar 75's, 2005, 1.25" shafts. Is there a particular type of bearing I should ask for? I just found out all this when the boat was hauled yesterday and I hope I can hear from you soon!! THANK YOU -- Charlie Ridley on Elixir in Charleston, SC.
I own a 1998 SunBird - Neptune, 18' center console fishing boat. I understand from an article in "BoatU.S." (Oct 14, 2005) that gasoline with Ethanol could rupture fiberglass gas tanks fuel tanks in boats manufactured before the mid 1980's. Since my boat is a late 1990's model, am I safe to assume that it does not have this problem or do I need to have someone inspect it to be sure? (The SunBird is no longer made by OMC and OMC is now owned by Bombardier.) Is there someplace online that might clear this up for me. Thanks.
Is it acceptable practice to only pump out all of the visibly ethanol contaminated gas from the tank since it is on the bottom and visible, and thereby minimize the possible environmental problem of leaking during the pump out, and the engine runs fine after it is done?
Don: I have a permanent mounted, 11-gallon, Tempo Fuel tank which was manufactured on 9/9/1991. The material is Polyolefin. Are there any reported problems with Ethanol fuel and Polyolefin tanks? During winterization last fall I disconnected the fuel line at the updraft carburetor of my 22 HP, M-60, Palmer inboard and drained the tank. Today I installed an inspection port in the deck above the fuel level sender. Then upon inspecting the tank by removing the fuel sender I was glad to see the tank was indeed totally empty and clean. However, the sender's rubber gasket is quite deteriorated. There are cracks around the screw holes, and at one of the holes the gasket is nearly cut through. I can send a scan if you like. The bottom of the sender had a lot of chalky build up, which could be an indication of electrolytes. Other than around the screw holes the tank side of the gasket was clean. The tank is well grounded. However, I did not ground the sending unit ? no gauge. I will add a ground to it too. I have heard that some rubber parts are susceptible to ethanol. Could this be case with the sender's gasket? How about my old Zenith carburetor will it survive? -Bob
I recently ordered a 2008 boat with Bravo III SeaCore outdrives. I have had expereince with anti-fouling paint for the drives on my current boat and it has not been good. The anti-fouling paint, applied by the dealer was Trilux. Wherever that paint was, it seemed to be effective at avoiding algae and barnacles. But somewher in the season it all disappeared and a nice shiny pair of outdrves emerged when the boat was pulled in fall '07. What is the best process for applying this paint(or another paint you would recommend over Trilux)? My dealer acknowledged that the drives were not sanded enough when the paint was applied using that as the reason there was none left in the fall. Should they sand new drives? Should primer be used? Is there a prep solvent that should be used to clean the surface? Incidentally, I store my boat in the water during the season (May through mid-October) on Fairlee Creek, a tributary to the northern Chesapeake Bay, ie brackish water. Thanks in advance for your reply.
I have a 1975 chriscraft boat with a 350cc and a volvo penta 280 outdrive. when i run the engine above 2500rpms the exhaust pipes overheat. I have installed a new raw water pump and a new riser on one side. still have problem. the overflow from the risers seem to be working good see lots of water coming out. How can I fix? Mike
Don- I have a real dilema- recently purchased a used 23' wa cuddy sea-pro with a 5.7 ltr. v8 (1996). unfortunately it did not have an hour meter, but ran great for a month. Confirmed, blown head gasket. My marina does all of my maintneance, and suggest that I replace (re-power) with a rebuilt base engine. For about less that a thousand, I can get an updated vortec motor with new risers and manifolds (need these too on old engine). I feel that I am better off on the "new gold motor" rather than the base. I plan on keeping the boat for a long time as the hull is in great shape. I would really appreciate your take on whether it is better to go new, or have the marina take all of the old parts off the old engine and install them on the rebuilt base. The labor charges are the same whether I go new or rebuilt base. Also, they (marina) are telling me that my old motor has a rochester carb (no longer made) and the new holley is garbage. Please get back to me as soon as your can, as this project is going to get under way very soon. Thanks for the input. Jeff Ferdinad, Manalapan, NJ.
I am not sure if you can help, but here goes! I have a 30' Baja with Twin 6.2 MPI's. My last outing I noticed that I dropped 5 lbs of Oil Pressure on my Port Engine at 3/4 throttle. I have also found a moderate amount of oil in the bilge under that engine. I have been tol that it may be a problem with my oil sending unit. I will probably take my boat to my mechanic but I just want to avoid being blindsided. Thank you for your help.
Don I have a 07 volvo duoprop outdrive. When i Pulled the boat from the water this fall I had peeling and blistering paint and some pitting. the anodes have over 90% remaing. I did notice a film of oxidation on the anode mounted on the cavitation plate which i belive made the anode inactive. I herd of this happening on boats that are frequently pulled from the water but mine is slip kept. The outdrive is a new design this year which has the anode on top of the cavitation plate. When the boat is on plane the anode is out of the water. what do you think could this have contributed to the oxidation ? Tim
Hi Don, Just bought a 31 foot o'day sail boat and found there was never a sea water screen installed for the engine. I purchased a groco water screen but have a question as to where to install it. My question is should it be installed above or below the water line? Bill
I own a 47 ft Catana sailing catamaran (French built) with two inboard diesel engines. The diesel fuel feed lines (up to the engines) are hoses labeled "Marine Fuel ISO 7840 A2 CE 01". My pre-purchase surveyor stated that the fuel lines were not approved for use since they were not A1 rated. I cannot find what the real USGC or ABYC regulations/recommendations are - just confusion. Are my fuel lines legal or not - or am I looking at a major replacement project to satisfy my insurance company? Thanks, Dave
We built a 37 foot full keeled sailboat. Its calculated hull speed is 7.3 knots. The shaft is 1 1/4" in diameter and its length is 6 feet. The propeller is 3 bladed 16x10. The transmission is a HBW 150 with a 1.9 to 1 ratio. The engine is a Pathfinder 53 Hp (calculated shaft Hp is about 40). We have the shaft supported at its aft end by a Cutlass bearing and it comes into the keel into a PSS Dropless stuffing box. At the transmission end the shaft connects through a flexible shaft coupling supplied by R&D. Does the shaft require any additional bearings in between the Cutlass and the gear box? if yes, what kinds would you recommend and where should it (they) be placed?
Hi Don, I bought a 36 ft powerboat and the shaft brushes were taken off but still connected to the bonding wire. I would like to replace them but the "business end" has nothing attached to it anymore. What do I use? A bronze brush? Graphite? The shaft is 1 3/4 inch. Where does one source that kind of thing? I find very little on this detail in researching shaft brushes. Thanks.
I need an antifreeze tester for propylene glycol. The tester for ethylene glycol does not work with PG antifreeze. Is such a tester commonly available or non-existant? Switched from Prestone to West Marine's SeaFit PG antifreeze for 1982 Volvo AQ260A -- 350 Chevy. Heat Exchanger had a leak, had it repaired. Decided to use the biodegradable in case another leak happens. I need a tester to know if any leaks are developing and diluting the antifreeze. The last time the heat exchanger stayed full, and only by testing for good antifreeze did I realize there was a leak which put seawater into the antifreeze side, keeping it full -- not with antifreeze, but with seawater. Thanks -- I appreciate your knowledgeable articles. -- Good Job! --Hank Williams
I'm about to get a Bayliner 288 with a Mercruiser 350 magnum. My question is how to weigh the pros/cons of getting fresh water cooling. The boat will be in a fresh water river (Chickahominy) much of the time, but could spend a month or more in salt. Then there's the resale consideration or my change of homeport to salt possibility. I'm told by two dealers that the new engines do NOT need fresh water cooling AT ALL even if continuously in salt. (One of those dealers has his marina in salt water.) I'm told by a fresh water dealer TO get FWC, as it's better for resale and protects "much" of the motor against accidental freeze and you can use later in the season. But, I'm not sure these are important enough reasons to spend thousands more. I'm wondering are the 2008 engines really good enough you don't have to worry much about corrosion and strainers for the water system intakes good enough to keep all river mud and debris out of the engine? If you keep it in salt should you flush it once a week? Someone else says FWC is one more thing to break down and pay to maintain and if FWC springs a leak at sea, you can't put more coolant in it whereas the older type just pumps more water from the river or sea into the engine cooling system even with a leak. And you can probably tell me more things I should be considering... Can you help me judge the truth and the relative importance of these factors? Thank you very much
I'm not sure where to submit this question but could you forward it to the proper area. I have been getting water in my gas tank. It was bad a few years ago but it showed up again this year. I notice that when under way my tach starts showing a decrease in RPM's. Sometimes the engine sputters and stalls. I know to go to the moisture seperator and check / clean it out. I empty it into a clear glass jar and inspect it. Usually you will see a water / gas line. I reinstall the moisture seperator and away I go. It runs good. When I get the boat on the trailer I raise the tongue and tip the boat to one side. This causes all the water in the tank to go to the lowest point. I then remove a 1/2" pipe plug insert a suction hose and pump the liquid into a clear plastic 5 gallon jug. Here again you can see the water / gas line. I do this until I get very little water coming out. Like I said I had this problem a few years ago and it cleared up and went away until this year. I have a 1987 Four Winns cuddy cabin. It's an aluminum tank. I always top it off in the winter while in storage and keep it mostly full all season. I don't think I'm getting it from condensation. It may be entering the tank from someplace else? The gas fill screw cap and vent are the only two hoses that lead to the outside of the boat. They look pretty good? I spoke to various marine dealers amd mechanics but they are all stumped. Have you heard of any conditions like I'm speaking of? Joe
Don, Any advise/data concerning the compatibility of mechanical (diaphram) fuel pumps with E10 gasoline? - Dave Fenton
I am confused about winter storage with e10 fuels. I have a 2006 90hp etec on a 17 mako with 40 gallons. Is it fill to 90% or run it as empty as possible before storing? I am in Connecticut and shrinkwrap and store outdoors on a trailer. Thanks Brent
how do you remove a prop that has been on the boat 20 yrs? it is a 1988 beneteau sailboat. the prop and shaft are not damaged in any way, we are replacing the fixed blade with a folding one. thanks, cindy
I have a 2007 Rinker with a fresh water cooled 5.0, do I need to add anti freeze to the block, or just drain out the raw water
I have a 1998 Mercury Outboard 90hp (oil injection). I am having problems with the engine. It is slowing down and speeding back up all on its own. When I am full throttle you can feel the boat pushing and releasing, pushing and releasing. The problem is getting worse and more dramatic. I think it has something to do with the fuel supply. Is this a correct assumption. What do you think?
I have a 2000 Wellcraft (27') with a 5.7L Volvo Penta I/O with approx 450 hours on it. I am the original owner, and have had the engine professionally maintained (winterization and Spring tune-up). The last tune-up was in May 2007 and the engine has always run extremely smooth. I fill up at the same marina for the last few years and had 3/4 of a tank onboard (the fuel does contain ethanol). Two weeks ago while cruising at 3000 rpm the engine suddenly quit. When I attempted to re-start it I heard a grinding noise and decided to call Towboat US for a tow home. The marina mechs pulled the engine out of the boat where they discovered 2 cylinders with warped exhaust valves from excessive heat---initial stages of a detonation problem. They're recommending getting an entire new engine. I had an extended warranty through Volvo Penta (2+4 program) that expired last year. This seems very unusual for a Volovo Penta to require replacement after just just 450 hours. I'm in a bind since the boating season officially ends at the marina on Nov 1st and I don't want to sink money into a new engine when the root cause is still unclear (bad fuel?, parts failure?), and the boat will sit in shrink wrap until the Spring. Any suggestions for this frustrated boater would be most appreciated. (Do you think Volvo Penta would help in this situation?)
Don, Due to many reasons, we did not use our boat this season. At the end of the '06' season, I properly prepared it for winter storage including fogging the engine, adding crankcase oil stabilizer, topping the gas tank and adding stabilizer, draining the water from the engine and also putting in anti-freeze. The engine is a 7.4L Mercruiser with a Bravo 3 and I live in NJ. My question really comes down to 2 items. The first being, due I need to re-fog the engine and what to do about the gas? I guess the gas is the biggest issue since it's already 1 year old and will probably be closer to 1 1/2 years by the time I get the boat back in the water in the spring. I"m thinking that I should probably drain and dispose of the gas but should I do it now or wait till the spring? Also should I re-fog the engine? If so, I really don't want to start it, so I'm considering just pulling the plugs, putting some fogging oil in and turning it over a few times. Any other thoughts on real long term storage? Thanks, Tom Klein Toms River, NJ
I have a 1989 Imperial 2320 walk around cuddy. I recently repaired the motor and when I put it back in I noticed thaty the holes where the motor mount bolts go seemed to have dirt in them. I used a drill to pull the dirt out and found what I believe to be rotten under the fiberglass engine brace. This brace crosses the engine bay. What is the best way to repair this so that the engine is firmly anchored to the boat. Thank you for your help. I has taken me 4 years to get to this point. Ken Damon
I change the oil in my twin inboards (350 Mag MFI Mercruisers) by using the typical tube and pump. My question deals with the remote oil filters which are mounted upside-down. Do you have any "tip" for reducing amount of oil spillage that occurs when the old filters are being removed. I presently catch all I can by placing oil absorbing fabric around the base of the filter but this does not come close to catching it all. Thank you for your response.
dear don i have a 27ft express cruser with twin 4 cy merc engins and io drives. on my starbord side engin i am seeing a slight oil slick on the water. i have some water in my hydraulic pump reservoir [milkey]. could it be a hydro line or cylinder leak. thank you
I have a 2000 Harris Kayot 200 Super Dek. It has a Volvo Penta 5.0L stern drive with a SX drive unit. When I lower my drive unit, oil leaks out around the prop. Any idea why this happens? Should I just take it to a mechanic?
I have an 3.0 Mercruiser in a Maxim 1800 SR. The winterizing procedure in the shop manual says to run the carb out of gas while fogging it. I do not see a safe/easy to cut off the gas while the engine is running. Since I plan to keep the boat for a long period I am thinking about installing a fuel shut off value. Is it worth the time/money ? What would be the best location ? Would a shut off value be a potential problem while underway ? Any help is appreciated. Bob in Hartfield Va.
I have a mercruiser 5.7 engine that seems to be idling rough. This is a re-manufactured marine engine. I installed a re-man. 4 barrel Rochester carb. on it. After idling for less than an hour while out trolling the plugs would load up. I tried adjusting fuel/air mixtures but never could get any adjustment out of them. I rebuilt carb 3 times. I did notice that after I shut engine off fuel would be dumping into the primaries. I decided to replace the carb. I put a new re-man. 4 barrel Rochester on from Carb Care. Engine ran great fuel/air mixtures adjusted properly and at 500 RPM it did not deviate more than 20 RPM. Just recently it started the same thing again and fuel is dumping into the primaries again after shutting the engine off. There is no fuel in the sight fuel tube from the fuel pump to the carb. Where do I look next?
Hello, Where can I find steps to change the impeller on a 85 suzuki DT5 outboard motor
Don, I know this question is loaded with variables, but generally speaking, how many engine hours can I expect my 1982 Sea Ray SRV 310 W/ Mercruiser 260 gas inboards to last before major engine work such as valve jobs or even engine replacement is needed. This boat has always been in freshwater, serviced religiously and otherwise "babied". Currently, the engines have 1,050 hours and seem to be running perfectly. I am about to perform some preventive maintenance-exhaust manifolds-and having an idea of engine longevity would be helpful. Thanks for your answer Don, Wallace Cooper Gainesville, GA #298754
Dear Sir Don, I have been reading, with great interest, about the E-10 gas problem. I have come to the conclusion that one of the biggest problems is caused by in-tank condensation formed by normal breathing through the fuel tank vent when temperature changes occur. One possible solution to alleviate most of the condensation problem would be to install a simple sealed-bellows type reservoir and a 4-way, normally closed, solenoid valve. When the engine is running the valve would energize thus allowing the tank to vent to the atmosphere. When the engine is not running the valve would de-energize thus closing off the atmosphere portal and force the bellows to supply or receive any expanding or contracting atmosphere from the fuel tank. An override switch could be used to open the vent when refueling to prevent the fill hose from possible gurgling. I hope this idea can be taken further. I am planning on building one of these devices, but I thought, maybe I should present this to the experts first. Thanks Andy Smith
i have a 27.7 baha that has dual fuel reserves. 1 of the 2 tanks rarley drains. What do i need to do to have both the tanks drain at the same time so the boat will not list to one side. What angle should the shutoff valves be at. I believe 90 deg will shut of flow and a 0 degree will be completely open. am i right? currently at a 45 deg angle. THANKS
Don- I have a 1999 28 ft Bayliner with a 7.4 L raw water cooled engine. I noticed that one of the exhaust elbows runs hotter that the other. Both manifolds were new in 2004. The boat never runs over 170 deg so its not a big problem at this point. I took the elbow off the hot side and it looked good and clean. Also I put a new hose from the thermostat housing to the manifold which did not change the condition. What do you think I should do next? Thanks
I PURCHASED A NEW LEFT OVER 2005 SILVERTON 330 SPORTS BRIDGE IN MARCH 22 2007 AND HAVE A OFF AND ON FUEL SMELL IN THE SALON THAT DRIVES US OUT OF THE SALON AND THE FUME ALARMS KEEP GOING OFF WITH OR WITHOUT THE SMELL AND THE MANUFACTURE OR DEALER SAY THERE IS NOTHING WRONG. EVER HEARD OF THIS PROBLEM
A second question regarding my 1967 Arrowglas MerCruiser 160. The boat has generally been used near the SF Bay Area or close to sea level. I want to take it up to a lake in the Sierra Mountains which is approximately 6000 ft elevation. Do I need to adjust the carb jets to run more lean due to the altitude difference? Should I consider a smaller prop at this elevation as well? Thank you, Shel
I recently bought a 1967 Arrowglas boat with a MerCruiser 160. Although in my youth I used to regularly work on the engine of a 65 El Camino, the operations of a stern drive are new to me. My issue is that when I put the boat in reverse, the stern drive walks out of the water. I have check the fluid level which seems fine. When parked and the engine is in the full down position, I can manually pull the engine up. I have a manual which talks about checking the shift lever setting but the description and picture don't seem to match what I am seeing. Any thoughts? Shel
Should any additive be added to a full diesel tank on the occasion of boat layup for the winter? thanks for a reply.
Hi Don, I have a 2004 27ft CC which is powered with twin F150 yamaha engines of the same year. I have used the boat for 3 seasons and have been having problems with the engines stalling for 2 of the 3. I faithfully treat the fuel and have the engines serviced according to the Mfg specs. The marina where I get the service is where I purchased the boat and they are a high volume dealer and rated as one of the top 50 in the USA. They have performed repairs based on a service bulletin issued by Yamaha in 2005 and that is when the problems started. They have had the boat several times and were not able to repeat the problem. They downloaded info from the engines and found that out of the 100 or so hours of operation on the motors that I don't run the engines hard enough and that I need to run them at 4500 to 5000 rpms. I did this for some time after and the engines still had the same problem. I brought the boat back again and test rode it with their mechanic and was able to repeat the problem. He told me that the propellers were too large for the 4 cylinder engines and that I should decrease the size by 1 full size to get rid of the problem. My questions to you before I spend 600 to 800 dollars on props is this info on recalls or prop discrepencies available to the public and where do I find it. I spoke with Yamaha and they told me I need to discuss this with an authorized dealer.
I took my 2000 stingray with a Mercrusier 4.3, 190 HP to a marina (non BoatUS marina) for a tune-up (it sat for a whole year without being run). They told me that I needed to replace an anti siphon valve at a cost of $245.00. The symtom is that at 4200 rpms they dropped to 3800 rpms on its own, then picked up again. Doing my research I found that this could also be possible if the fuel is old which it is. Not being rich I do not want to drop the $245 to repair something that might not need it. Would it be better to clean the fuel? Or go ahead and replace the valve, which seems to be very expensive for such an inexpensive part. Thanks
Don, I own a 2001 90 hp Honda 4-stroke. The power tilt mechanism developed a fluid leak recently, requiring loosening of the manual overide screw to lift and lower the engine. Since first noticing the problem, I've only cycled the unit 4 or 5 times before my mechanic could check it out. He told me that a stainless "plug" in the cast aluminum casing has corroded out and that the entire unit must be replaced. Cost of the part alone is over $2000. He says that he's had several OMC outboards experience a similar problem, but that the repacement part is about 1/2 the cost of the Honda. The engine is operated in saltwater. Are you familiar with this problem and does the part cost seem reasonable?
We are new boat owners and have a 33' 2003 Martinique. We have been having engine trouble and the mechanic found one of the fuel "tits" was blocked and cleared it. We went out again and lost one of the two engines (sounded like it wasn't getting any gas). After my husband had them look at it again they said it was water in the gas (we have 2 1/2 filled tanks, about 120 gal). They told him that he needed to get it to another marina, have it hauled out and they would have to cut a hole into the side to get to the tanks to get it repaired. We can't understand why we can't have the fuel pumped out, etc. My husband just went out of the country for 10 days and it's just killing us. We are new boat owners and are just trying to start with common sense before we drop another $1,000 in repairs. Any suggestions you could offer are very appreciated. Thank you. Sue Estes
Have a Yanmar 1 GM Diesel, experiencing problem after started and running the engine which bogs down and eventually shuts off after 10-12 minutes. Can start anytime if I disconnect in-line hose from Primary Racor filter to fuel pump, connect a hose which sets inside a spare diesel to input of fuel pump, can perform a quick bleed by pumping lever under fuel pump then start engine. Turn it off normally. Reconnect from the primary again to the in-side of fuel pump. Runs for 12 to 15 minutes then bogs down and shuts off. Changed the Racor filter with a new one, changed the Impeller out just to make sure it's not overheating problem. Secondary was changed last fall before dry dock. Is my fuel pump the problem? whenever I just try to use the fuel level to pump the air out in it's original connection no air or fuel comes out bleed screw. Yet, if I disconnect hose and place another hose directly to fuel in can and then bleed it works correct
Don, INCA Molded Products-makers of fuel tanks-- tells me by phone-- that ethanol fuel does NOT affect their tanks.But, that if the pick-up tube is aluminum it should be changed to stainless. Good infoor not?? Bob Edwards Salt Springs, FL
Hi Don! We have a Newport Bicentenial with an Atomic IV engine. We are experiencing an ongoing ,very strong gasoline smell. My husband has checked the engine, lines and cannot see a leak. It is very bothersome at night when we close up to run the air conditioner, but even when all hatches are open, there are times I need to just get off the boat and get some fresh air. (start to get headaches) We will run the blower but that does not seem to help the situation. Any thoughts before we lose any more brain cells ?!? Thanks for your time.... Janine
i just repowered my boat with a new 2007 mercruiser 4.3MPI alpha one. on my initial cruise, following all break in rules, it ran great until 2.5 hours, then it sputtered (slight backfire) and stalled. It restarted, but sputtered again in a couple minutes. It restarted a couple times, then would not start. I verified I had gas, then added a Starbrite enzyme gas treatment and dry gas (IsoHeet.) Nothing changed. After about a 1/2 hour with no attempts to start, I tried again, it started up. It ran fine for a 1/2 hour as I returned to my slip. I purposely shutoff the engine, and it restarted without an issue several times. the next day, I drained my fuel filter in a clear bottle, but saw no separation of gas/water. I'm thinking it was water in the gas (the gas is 4 months old) but since I saw nothing in the filter, I wasn't sure. The outside temperature was over 90. Do you have any ideas on what it was? thanks
Don: I am at my wits end! I have an early 90s 9.9 Mercury Outboard on a 1965 13' Boston Whaler. This is my first season with the boat. The engine ran great the first time out, on year-old fuel. The next day, we fueled up and headed out for a short run, and after about 150 yards, the engine died. Our mechanic said it was the fuel, and he rebuilt the carb and cleaned the fuel filter. We installed a fuel-water separator and headed out again, this time running for about 15-20 minutes at or above idle, then at WOT for about 5 minutes, at which time the engine died. It would run, but only at idle speed. As an experiment, I bypassed the fuel-water sep., and went out again the next day. The motor seemed to run fine, until I gave it full throttle. Again, it would only run at idle, and would die if given gas. My mechanic says it's the fuel, and that the carb likely need rebuilding--again. I am dubious. HELP! Thank you. Mike
We recentley purchased a 1988 Wellcraft Coastal 2800. The boat was not used for the last 2 years. We replaced the Starboard starter and several other repairs. When we started the engines, they took a little time to turn over but finally did. The port engine ran normal with a mid-range temperature, with no smoke in the exhaust. The Starboard engine blew out what appeared to be a small amount of rust colored water, then after about 5 seconds was clear, however there is white smoke in the exhaust and the temperature on the engine keeps rising. I turned the engine off to avoid overheating. could this be one problem or maybe two, and if so what are your opinions?
Don I have at 1993 Baha Cruiser with a Volvo 740b engine I have to keeping tightening the belts on the engine what can be the problem. Thanks Capt Hank
I have a Volvo DP 280 drive. I drained the gear lube and pulled off the top portion to check out the u joints. After I reassembled the unit, I proceded to fill the unit with new gear lube through the to hole. It only took a quart of oil and is slightly over the full mark. Does these units need to be filled by pumping up from the bottom? Is the level really full or is there an empty cavity on the bottom?
Dear Don- I just purchased a 1998 24" bowrider with 7.4L Volvo Penta OMC I/O. Had it fully tuned by boatyard where it had been stored unused for 2 years. Trial ran it fine before taking delivery. On delivery day it worked fine for 45 minutes then on a deceleration from 3/4 speed it stalled. It will not even crank now. Tried recharging battery and pulled and checked starter an its fine. Problem seems electrical, but in wiring diagrams can not find any fuses that would prevent cranking engine. Do you know of circuit connection in fuel pump that would prevent turning engine over? any other ideas? Thanks.
Hi Don, Would like some suggestions on building an on board diesel fuel polishing system for a 125 gal aluminum tank. I have a racor 500 series 3micron filter in line to the 300hp yanmar and am having filter clogging problems with grit and black particulates, presumably from a recent refueling. A separate polishing system seems to be the way to go and I would like to make my own. What suggested filter system parts and where to get them would really be appreciated. Thankyou for your time and consideration. Bob
Last June my marina replaced the flapper valve on my Mercruiser I/O. This was as a result of discovering water in my crankcase which was discovered as the engine was hydraullicing (sp ) After it was repaired in worked fine until late September when it again was hydrauliicing. At that time there was no water in the crankcase as that was the first thing I looked for. There was now water above the pistons. During the winter the marina again repaired the boat and again replaced the flapper valve. Is it possible for water to enter the engine at either location without effecting the other?? After some minor hitches the marina got our boat running this spring only to discover that there was a minor water leak coming from the water pump and was injesting water vapor through the carburetor. Could this have been the cause of the water above the pistons ??
Don Please help I own a 2004 Wellcraft Coastal with 8.1 Volvo Gas inboards FWC. The engines have approx 160 hrs and one of the manifolds has rusted preety badly. The mechanic says the riser was leaking salt water into the engine and I need to replace both the manifold and the riser. Is this a normal repair for a boat that is so lightly used after only three seasons? I believe there had to be a defect from Volvo to have this type of failure so soon Are you aware of any issues Vovlo is having ? I'm looking at a large repair bill that Volvo says isn't covered under warranty even though I have the 2 + 4 extended warranty. Thanks
In your article "Servicing Your Stuffing Box" you mention that a leak rate of 2 or 3 drops per minute is adequte and that more then 8 or 10 per minute means you should service the box. I have a 87 Malibu Skier and have been told that one drop every three seconds is normal. Considering this type of boat, engine (Ford 351 V-8 Commander) and transmission (Velvet Drive) which guideline would you recomend? Thank You.
Which way do i start adjusting the stern drive anode tab on a mercruiser out drive
Don, I'm planning on installing a new prop on my 4 stroke Johnson motor. What type of grease/Lubricant do I need to apply to the Propeller shaft before placing the new prop on it? Thank You Gary
I had my marina winterize my block, and now this spring upon recommissioning the boat i inccured a cracked water pump housing which they charged me 279.00 for. Isnt that theyre fault, because there must have been residual water in the housing? Thank you
I have 1998 mercury 90 outboard that will start fine but will not turn off with the ignition switch. In order to turn the motor off I have to disconnect the fuel line. I have replaced the ignition switch but the problem still exists. The motor is mounted on a 1998 Landau 24 foot pontoon boat with quicksilver controls. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Alton Scott
I have two 1995 Merc 350 V-8's that have been "out of commission" for at least 6 years, still in the boat, in dry storage. I turn them every month, and have the cylinders lubed nicely, no problems. I'd like to pull the engines and "recondition" them myself. Does Boat US or anyone sell a "kit" that I can buy, or at least a book that would guide me in doing the work myself? Don't want to do a complete rebuild as I'd rather stay away from the deep internals of the engines if I can avoid it. Simply risers, exhaust manifolds, circ pumps, oil etc to get us on the water again. Thanks for the help!!
Hi Don, Last Wednesday I asked you how to resolve high steering efforts; It turned out to be the cable, which was strange since there was very little steering effort when the cable was disconnected from the clevis. I'm guessing that a small axial force on the end of the cable translated to a side load in a bend. If so, then the side load would push the core against the inside wall of the housing at the bend, producing friction. There'd be very little steering effort with the cable disconnected from the clevis because there'd be no axial force, therefore no side load, therefore no friction. Supporting evidence: The 2nd in command experienced high steering efforts with the cable disconnected from the clevis when I pulled or pushed on the end of the cable. I used a section of bicycle inner tube instead of the plastic bag to introduce a higher column of WD40 than would have been possible with a 2 gallon freezer bag (largest I could find). Oil reached the entire length of the cable as evidenced by oil dripping from the helm unit. That did the trick; Steering is finger light. In the end, it was your advice on how to introduce the oil that facilitated the fix; Thanks
I own a 2003 Bayliner 210. I have a faria tachometer that sits at 1200 whether or not the boat is running. does this mean the tach is bad and needs replacing?
4.3 1990 merc.OC 862049-OC 319888.Noise coming from crank shaft pulley area.Took off all hoses to pumps ect.. to isolate noise.All belts off noise still coming from pulley-timing chain area.300 hours,could the timing chain need replacing?
Hi Don: New to stern drives. Do they have a telltale water outlet to let me know that the water is circulating properly?
HI, MY BOAT HAS TWO INBOARD 80 GAL. ALUMINUM GAS TANKS, AND ALONG WITH MANY OTHER BOATERS, HAVE BEEN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH E10 THANOL GAS FOULING UP THE CARB FILTERS. I DO HAVE TWO WATER/FUEL SEPARATORS. I'VE HAD BOTH TANKS COMPLETELY DRAINED (AS BEST WE COULD), AND HAD BOTH CARBS REDONE.THIS WAS ALL DONE BEFORE LAYUP LAST FALL. I DID NOT TOP OFF THE TANKS. I DON'T USE THE BOAT MUCH AND THE OLD GAS WAS PROBABLE A COUPLE OF SEASONS OLD. MY QUESTION IS: RATHER THAN PUT FUEL IN BOTH TANKS, WOULD I BE BETTER OFF JUST PUTTING SOME GAS IN ONLY ONE TANK AND FEED BOTH ENGINES FROM IT. I DON'T GO FAR FROM HOME, USUALLY LESS THAN A MILE FROM FROM MY DOCK.I BOAT ON SO. OYSTER BAY, ON LONG ISLAND.NEW YORK. I WOULD APPRECIATE YOU COMMENTS.....THANKS, DAVID ARZT
i have a sea ray 19'bowrider with a merc alpha 1 stern drive. yesterday as i left the dock, i powered up, got on plane and the boat went to idle speed, the engine will rev up but the speed does not get over idle speed in forward, reverse seems normal. what happened?
I am in Los Angeles and I still don't know what kind of gas we are using here in cars or in boats. I am very concerned about my boat and its fuel, since it is not out on the water under power every week. Some gas pumps still say that MTBE is in their tanks and others say nothing. To save a few bucks I usually try to carry a couple of gas tanks with gas filled up from the local gas station to my boat in the marina and I don't know what is in there now. It was not used during the wintertime. The tank is about 80% full, but I am still worried about phase separation and accumulation of water in the bottom of the tank (aluminum). My question is: Is this phase separation irreversible or will this stuff remix when the boat is out on the waves and things get sloshed and whipped around and the gas in the tank is in constant motion? Thanks Rick Wetzler
Hi Don, I need to make a 90 degree bend in my engine raw water inlet hose. What type of fitting do you recommend? The previous owner used an ABS plastic fitting. Thanks, Frank
Don, I have a 1992 Four Winns that has an OMC I/O. I had the boat out of the water for 2 months for maintenance. When I put her back in the engine overheated very soon after getting underway. I shut down and allowed to cool. Taking my lower unit covers off, I found my impeller in pieces. My question is besides replacing the impeller, do I need to be concerned about perhaps any of these small pieces of rubber from the broken impeller getting into the engine? thanks
I have a 21 foot Mariah, with Mercruiser 5.7/Alpha 1. I'm thinking about putting on a hydrofoil stabilizer- one that requires no drilling, but rather clamps to the anti-ventilation plate. My question is this: What is the probability of one of these foils causing damage to the engine or boat (such as gimbal bearing, or transom)? Bob K.
I have a 26'motorsailer built in 1971 which uses a Volvo Penta MD2030B 26 Hp diesel engine. The current engine was installed in 1996. About one month ago I did a regular oil and filter change at 900 engine hours. I replaced both the primary and secondary fuel filters as well as the oil filter. While the primary filter I replaced was a Racor 10 micron element, it was replaced with a 2 micron element. After one month's time, and only about three or four hours of operation, I experienced fuel starvation and a gradual shutdown of the engine. On my next visit we replaced both filters again, bled the system, and managed to start the engine. However, it very quickly showed symptoms of fuel starvation again. We then replaced the primary filter with a 10 micron element, whereupon the engine immediately started and ran well until we shut it down. I suspect that there is crud in the fuel tanks at this point, after a winter of very light usage. My questions are: 1) How fine SHOULD the primary filter element be? The local dealer says Volvo Penta does not give specifications. 2) What is the most effective way to clean the tanks of residue and suspect fuel before refueling? will additives help, or just cause more trouble? Thanks for your help! Mac Kieffer
Hi Don, I have a 1990 Searay 330 w/ twin 7.4 and Hurth trans. I've noticed a little tranny fluid under port trans. I had my mechanic watch the tranny while underway at high load and he noticed alittle fluid coming from the dipstick tube area. I tightened the dipstick but noticed the other day, after doing some high speed cruising a few new drops under the tranny again (I got all the fluid out of the bilge each time). Is it as simple as replacing the 17 yr old dipstick or is there something else going on here? Could there be some reason that there is an unusualy high amount of pressure building in that tranny? Thanks... Ron
!986 bertram 31 Flybridge cruiser with fiberglass gasoline tank dated 1985. Am i safe buying gasoline with ethanol or not?
I have to replace the anodes on my boat for the first time. As I looked at replacement anodes, I see that besides zinc, there are also Aluminum anode kits for my Mercruiser Outdrive. The advertisements for these aluminum alloy anodes say they are better than zinc and better for the environment. They also claim to be "Mercury approved US MIL-A-24779 (SH)". Can I use these safely or should I stil with zinc??
I recently heard a mechanic aat a local boatyard (Md.)mutter that they'd already had 6 boats that winterized their boats w/ tanks full and that the ehathanol had seperated and left a layer apprx 1 inch of yuck across the bottoms of their tanks. Have you been hearing similar stories as people start de-winterizing this season? I haven't done mine yet and was told by my mech. last fall to leave it full and stabilze it. I have a 2001 22' wellcraft w/ 100 gal tank and a carburated volvo 5.0 gl i/o. Is there a way I can check to see if I should be taking corrective action before starting it up the 1st ime? Thanks...
My boatyard "forgot" to winterize my 7.4 merc. 98'SeaRay 270. I found the frezze plugs in the bilge, approached the manager and he said he would look into it. Next Day he has the motor out of the boat and says I need to look at it because I have severve corrosion and may want to replace the engine while he has it out to reinstall the freeze plugs. The engine is in bad shape but I expected to get another year out of the exhaust manifolds before replacement. I feel like I am being asked to spend 5k plus to cover his mistake. Can it simply be, put the plugs back in and away I go?
What type of fuel tank for biodiesel would be best - plastic or aluminium?
I have a 1990 SEARAY 310 w/ twin 7.4 bluewaters w/ 600 hrs on them. What is your opinion on switching oil to Mobil 1 synthetic? Thanks.... Ron
I need to replace cutless bearing on Formosa 51, the rear housing is bolted directly on keel and probably will not come off. Do I need to remove shaft to get old one out or can I use small pick tool to extract with shaft still in? I have a picture for you to look at if possible for me to forward to you. Thanks for your attention with this matter
What is the differences between marine engine blocks and automotive engine blocks?
With all the conflicting information regarding the storage of boats with new 10% ethanol fuel, what is the best way to store the boat for extended periods? Full tank or empty as possible? Is there a sutible fuel additive that will combat the seperation of the water & ethanol when stored? If so will this additive interfer with other additives such as Yamaha Ring Free? Lastly, will the new fuel harm aluminium fuel tanks?
I have a 35' C&C sailboat with a Yanmar 27hp engine. It has the typical propulsion arrangement, with a ouboard cutlass bearing on a strut between where the shaft exits the hull and the prop. What is the acceptable level of play/clearance between the cutlass bearing and the shaft. Also, if I have to replace the bearing, is there a way to do this without removing the shaft? (Removing the shaft means having to remove the rudder, too...) Lastly, what is bad about too much play on the cutlass bearing? Thanks, Keith
Don, Are there restrictions on importation of 2 stroke outboard motors into the US? Phil
Don I am new to boating and purchased a 2001 Maxum 1800SR with a Merc 3.0. It has 160 hours on it. I purchased it in September 2006 and took it out several times and it ran great. The prior owner does not think the impellers have ever been checked or changed. Should they be checked ? How much will it cost to replace the impellers ? Thanks Bob Borden
Don, I own a 2004 Hunter 386 sailboat. Last fall, I had the cutlass bearing replaced and two new zincs added, since I was pulled for bottom painting. After relaunch, I began to experience a loud shrill, ringing noise between 1500 and 1700 RPM. The boatyard pulled the boat and they redid the bearing. Everyone agreed it was a good installation. We've since moved the zincs, but nothing seems to quite the loud noise. Prior to the first haul out I had no noise. What could have happened? The boatyard is baffled by this too. We put it in the water and the noise seems to come from the prop or aft of the engine. Could this be an engine alignment problem? What about something in the transmission. The engine is a Yanmar 3JH3E with their standard cone transmission. Thanks for any insights. We're still scratching our heads.
My friend has a 29-foot Maxim with IOs. His marina told him to never let them sit in salt water for more than 10 days. Thus, he is having his boat pulled and washed every 10 days -- for a fee. I have heard about some problems with the Bravo 3s, but is his marina telling him the truth, or just jerking his bobber?
Don, We recently purchased a 1998 Carver that had not been in the water since the '05 season. The fuel has been setting in the tank since the fall of '05. Prior to sea trials the sales team placed 45 gals of high octane in the tanks. My concern is the gas today is E-10 where the gas from '05 may have been MTBE type of gas. You recently stated in a posting that mixing old MTBE gas with E-10 gas can cause engine problems because of the gelling that takes place. What kind of problems occur and what can be done to fix the issue after the fact? Thanks, David Denny
Don, As long as I am here ... another question: I have an aluminum prop on my Volvo outdrive that was primed with a grey primer then painted black by a prop repair shop several years ago. The prop developed little pits of corrosion through the paint (boat has been out of the water for too long, sitting in my yard). In the cleanup process of stripping everything off the prop and polishing it, the ponder sets in ... Is there a compelling reason why I should prime/paint the prop as opposed to polishing/waxing it? The boat is never in the water for more than a week or so at a time. Thanks much for the info. Rod in Escondido
I have a 1997 Silveton 312 with twin Marine Power V-8's. Both engines are fresh water cooled and have never seen salt water. I purchased the boat last year and during the survey both risers were checked using a laser heat gun and everything checked out fine. I have never had any overheating issues and the engines run great. My question is should I have the risers pulled/checked/replaced, or should I just keep an eye on them with the temperature gun? The cost is considerable unless I do it myself, which I have never done before.
Don, I have a 20ft Shamrock with a 50gal moulded fibreglass tank aft& a 30 gal aluminum tank forward. I had fuel problems this Fall & had to spend $$$ to rebuild carb etc.With the ethenal in gas now,what would be my best options to avoid futher problems?
I have a diesel Ford Lehman 120 hp. The heat exchanger has a cap on each end. On both end is build up of white power crystals along the edges of the exchanger where there is no paint. I don't know what it is or what causes it. My zinc is normal and reducing at about half every three months. What should I do?
I have a 2000 310 Sea Ray with twin inboard gas engines. They are fresh water cooled, with a sea cock raw water intake to a heat exchanger to each engine. The boat is in the water year around for the first time this year. It's in a covered marina in the Columbia River in Portland Oregon. It has not yet been winterized as we have enjoyed some very lovely late fall and early winter cruising. We are wondering what we need to do, can do, to protect the engines from freezing temeratures without winterizing them. Winterizing them would not allow us to do any winter cruising. The weather in western Oregon is typically mild. However there is the occasional cold spell. Tonight for example it is predicted to get into the low 20s over night, into the 30s tomorrow and into the 20s again tomorrow night. I have been advised to not place any heating device in the engine compartment as a spark of any kind could ignite gas fumes. That's logical. But there are a lot of boats in the water all around me. They are not all winterized. There are boats in the water all over the country which are not winterized. There must be some device or product on the market which can heat the engine compartment (at least enough to keep temps above freezing). A spark resitant heater? A ceramic heater? Heat lamp? Any suggestions would be most appreciated.
I just noticed that one of my transmisions is leaking alittle fluid while underway. Is this a major problem? Thanks.... Ron
Don: What is the proper procedure to remove and replace the water pump impeller in my Mercruiser 4.3LX Alpha One sterndrive? I would like to do it by myself. Thank you for your help. Hector Brito
I had the unfortunate event of running my gas454s on a mixture of 70 gal. of gas and 45 gals of diesel. The result was a blown head gasket, a hydro-locked cylinder and a bent piston rod. the engines were run for approx one and onehalf hours on that mixture. I would like your opinion weather the fuel problem would cause the engine failure.
I am having a problem removing the inner propeller on a volvo duoprop. This is the first time I have attempted to remove this propeller since the boat was new (1 year old!)I do not want to ruin the very expensive stainless prop, any suggestions appreciated.
RE: Diesel fuel lift pump; Is it possiible for it to leak air into the fuel line ?
Volvo 5.0L I/O which will show no sign of overheating until you exceed 2000 rpm. At that point it will jump to 180++ or higher. Freshwater flushing valve replaced, connections tightened, and thermostat replaced. No change with the problem. Also removed and checked the waterpump impeller (brand new in May 2006 with less then 3 hours runtime) and found no problem with it. Risers and manifolds checked and replaced (8 years old) still no improvement. Thermostat removed and still no improvement - seems to be some sort of problem with insufficient water volume getting to or thru the engine. Looking for suggestions and/or comments to solve the problem. Boat is 8 years old, used in saltwater, kept on a lift and freshwater flushed after each use. Engine hours show 350 hours over 8 years. Mechanic is now suggesting pulling the boat, dropping the lower unit and checking for some obstructions in the water line.
My stuffing box on my Pearson 303 is attached to the sterntube by a 12" flexible hose. This hose had been soaking in diesel fuel that leaked from my tank (which has been replaced) and the outer skin has become mushy. Is the inner core of the tube impervious to diesel, such that I can trust it not to fail until I can get it to a yard 5 hours away where it will be replaced? Is the hose special order, or can I get it from BoatUS, an auto store or elsewhere?
I have a 22' Sea Ray Bowrider with a new Mercruisor 5.7 magnum engine. What is the operating heat range, RPM range and the speed ratio ? Thank you, Dale
Don - I recently purchased a 2002 Albin 36 Express Trawler with twin Yanmar diesels. Being new to marine diesels, I would very much appreciate any info you can provide as to where I can find "walk-through" guidance on checking the Racor fuel filters. Specific steps I should take to avoid air in the system would be most helpful. Thanks. Bob Stevenson
Don, So I've read about E-10 and read a number of comments from members on the Boat US site. Most comments seem to relate to 4 stroke engines. I have a 1996 Johnson 115 hp 2 cycle. Are the issues the same? On another boat I owned was powered with a 40 year old Evinrude that didn't seem to care what was in the tank or how long it was in there. Thanks Jay
I am the owner of a 1988, 28ft. Bertram with a fiberglass tank. Do you have any new information on where the change over to new resins took place or is that we will all have a problem eventually. Ran it all of last year with no problem and no crap in the filters other than what I usually had with gasoline as opposed to the ethanol we are using now in Massachusetts.We proably put 200 hours on it in 2006, any info would be helpful.
Hi Don, I desperately need your help. We have a 1992 20' Crownline bow rider. We have tried to contact Crownline & its dealers without success in an attempt to find out if the fiberglass gas tank in this boat is one that has to be replaced as a result of Ethanol fuel at marinas in Maryland. One of Boat US articles mentioned that fiberglass tanks in boats older than 1984 should be replaced and I'm now concerned about the fiberglass tank in our 1992 Crestline boat. Replacement of the fiberglass tank would require cutting a large hole in the aft deck above the tank to get it out and replace it with an aluminum one. Naturally this will be difficult & expensive & I don't want to do it unless it's absolutely necessary due to the introduction of Ethanol. Does Boat US have any way to determine the type of gas tanks in this 1992 Crestline 20' bowridewr, hull ident. JTC10976A292? If not, do you have a telephone # & name of a person at Crestline that can answer my question? As information Ethanol is also causing problems with my 1988 Carver causing sludge in the bottom of the tanks that keep its 454 gas engines from starting. We pumped off the bottom of the aluminum tanks, replaced the fuel filters and treated the gas with Star Tron which we purchased from West Marine. Engines are now running but I wonder for how long. Is anything being done to return to straight gasoline for marine engines? Thanks Don for your help. Best Regards, Jim Orlando email@example.com
What size macron filter would you recomend for a 120 Ford Lehman diesel? I use two 500 Rcaor filters valved so that I can change filters underway. Thanks John
I have a 38' ta-shing,sail boat, I just installed a packing gland & cutlass bearing. When I left the boat yard and went back to the marina everything was fine. A week or so later we were going out for a sail,when I put it in gear I had a bad,or not good vibration and I don't know why? I had a dripless seal when I went into the boatyard to do a bottom job and cutlass bearing. The dripless seal had no spring left in it and the "old salts" talked me into a packing gland. The vibration happens at the same spot when I rotate the shaft by hand. It's a V drive, so i'm able to do that very easaly.Can you give me any advice? thanks Wally
I am finding a small amount of diesel fuel(about 1/4 cup) underneath the fueltank(there is a small well). I tightened all the fittings, but the leak still persists. The tank was filled prior to storage. ANY IDEAS?
Hi Don, I have a 2006 Honda 40hp with eleven hours..I am winterizing the motor and changed the gear oil using a West Marine product instead of Honda's gear oil..Is this ok or should I drain the lower unit again in the spring and use Hondas product? Thanks, Frank
We have a new 34' Formula and are heading into the winter season here in the panhandle of Fl. Our Marina service dept. has sent us a letter with some winterizing options to do for our boat. This is our first winter with the boat and don't want to over spend on doing things we really don't need done. What would you advise us to have done for our boat to winterize it for use during this winter season. Thanks Stephanie
Is anyone having a problem with ethanol gas causing a vapor lock in the fuel pump on an inboard engine? My fuel pump is fastened to the block. The (new) pump stops pumpng when the engine has been running a half and hour or so. It starts pumping when the engine has cooled.
Hi Don; One big-block,running at 90% vs. opposed to two smaller engines running at 70% would result in simular fuel consumtion??Assuming same boat model(weiht). Wear and tear on the twins would be less? Thank's John
any experience as to those conversions from point distribs. to the pointless electronic type? i have an older 454 crusaders.
Don, With all the zero wind, or nasty chop in the face, motoring (instead of sailing) I am often forced to do in the Cheasapeake, I would really like to improve my 27 foot Pearson's, with Universal 12, performance under power in general and in reverse for docking, without killing my sailing performance. In researching replacement of the original fixed 2-blade prop, I cannot find on the web or elsewhere any objective comparison chart for folding versus feathering or comparisons between brands of the same type prop. All manufacturers claim they each make the best, or course. I also cannot find a source, other than some manufacturers, that say they can advise on the size and pitch, except when placing an order. That is also, for some, the only way to have a price quoted. It would be nice to have some expert feedback before dropping $500-$1500 plus on a product that may not be of much real benefit. Any comments, suggestions, sources? Thanks,
I own a 20' open bow and would like to winterize the 8 cyl GM engine and the outdrive. Can you tell me what to do?
Fall Layup Question. Due to what I have been reading about the use of Ethanol here in New England (Southern Conn.) Should I use a combination of Startron and a stabilizer for the winter layup or is just stabilizer sufficient?
Dear Don- I have a 2000 bayliner 19 foot cuddy. It has a 3L 4 banger engine with an alpha 1 stern drive. From what I have read, it is time (pase time) to replace the raw water impeller and perhaps the bellows. The boat gets 40 to 50 hours of use per year. The bellows looks brand new, and the boat is stored on a trailer with the drive in the down position in the summer. In the winter it is stored inside an unheated barn. The impeller is inside the drive unit somewhere. I have mechanical skills, and can follow a repair manual, but have never done this job. I do the winter lay up myself. How do I get to the impeller for replacement, and how dificult a job is it? What would you suggest for a repair manual to help me procede? Thank you. Mark
Hi Don, I recently found water in the oil of my lower unit when changing it for the season. It is an 2000 yr. Honda 90 4-stroke. Appears to have been caused by a loose oil fill screw. Oil was chocolate brown. I drained and replaced it with fresh oil. I believe it has been in this condition for a couple of weeks. I only use the engine in salt water. Should I be concerned? Any comments or suggestions? Thanks for providing a great service to us.
Hi, Could you please tell me how the Impeller can be removed from the sea water pump on my Yanmar 3GM30FC without damaging the impeller. Does any one make a tool for that purpose? Thanks, Gordon
In addition to condensation issues, are there any potential problems in using gasoline containing ethanol in an older engine. In our part of the Chesapeake Bay all of the marinas sell gasoline that is 10% ethanol. I have a 1993 Evinrude 150hp V-6. Is there anything I should be concerned about? If so, is there anything I can do to avoid problems?
I was unable to use my inboard gasoline powered FWC boat last season, hense I have a tankfull of stabilized MTBE fuel onboard. Engine was winterized running stabilized fuel through it. So what am I looking at? Should I rewinterize, restabilize, drain fuel and use it elsewhere, what about the carburator, will it be gummed up in the spring? Any advise? Regards
I have a 37 foot Silverton with aluminum fuel tanks. I have been having E-10 fuel problems. Changed the water separating filters twice and have added quite a bit of StarTron enzyme gas treatment. I will be winterizing the boat in a few weeks. Should I store the boat with full fuel tanks (adding more StarTron) or empty them as much as possible and just treat the residual? Regards, James
Dear Don, Thank you in advance for your help. This is a great Boat/US Program. What symptoms should one look for to indicate a need to replace exhaust manifolds. I've read that replacement should be a "regular" maintenance item. When I removed one of the manifolds on my 1982 260 Mercruiser 2 years ago there did not appear to be any significant rusting or corrosion. Upon recently reviewing the recommendation to replace manifolds, it seemed I was way past the recommended interval. The engine is raw water cooled and has always been in an inland Georgia lake year 'round in the water. In addition to symptoms of failing exhaust manifolds, what is your opinion on replacing them as a matter of "routine" maintenance? Wallace Cooper Gainesville, GA
I have a Mercury '01 90hp outboard salt water series. Is there anything I need to do relative to ethanol in gasoline to protect the engine. Gas filters, etc??? Thanks, Bill Donaldson
good afternoon..I'm the owner of a 1991 350 Sea Ray EC with alluminum fuel tanks. With the winter lay-up season approaching here on the coast of New Jersey, there are conflicting views on gasoline storage. Is the shelf life of ethanol the 60 to 90 days I'm hearing? and if so should I run the tanks as low as possible, risk the condensation issue or is there an octane booster or stablilizer I should add and top off the tanks to reduce the chance of condensation??..wasting fuel, by dumping it in the spring, which has been suggested at some marina's here, isn't much of an option.
I have a '87 chris 17'. I am concerned about the fuel tank. It seems to be made of plastic. I want to be sure so I know wheather to expect any problems with the ethanal gas.
Mr Casey, I recently heard about the ethanol gasoline and pre 1980 fiberglass fuel tanks. I have a '75 Bertram with a 165 gallon fiberglass tank, unfortunately full. Is there a way to test the gasoline to see if the resin in the fiberglass has leached into the fuel. The tank has been full since the end of 2005, the boat was not used during the '06 season. I plan to ship the boat fron N.Y. to Hudson Florida this fall, probably have the tank replaced if I can find a way to dispose of the gasoline if contaminated. Thank you, Bob Robert J. Liegel 158 Northern Pkwy. Riverhead N. Y. 11901 h 631 727 2346 w 631 344 2281 c 631 291 7627
how to change thermostat in bayliner 285
Most of what I'm reading on ethanol applies to fiberglass tanks. I have metal tanks. Previously, when winterizing, I routinely filled my tanks to 3/4 to minimize condensation water build up, and also added a fuel stabilizer. Should I continue this practice, or do you recommend an alternate plan? Thank you. Joe
I HAVE A 22 FT 1992 MARIAH. IT HAS A 5.7 350 MAGNUM MERCRUISER ENGINE. I HAVE REPLACED THE FUEL PUMP,STARTER,OIL PUMP, AND CARBURATOR. I TOOK THE BOAT OUT AND IT ONLY WENT ABOUT 11 MPH AT 3,000 RPM AND I HAD THE THROTTLE ALL THE WAY. IM SURE THE BOAT SHOULD GO FASTER, I DONT THINK THE WATER WAS THAT ROUGH? ANY IDEAS?
i have a yamaha 115 four stroke it seems like about every 60 hrs i have problem with the fuel injector the boat will not turn but about 3500 rpm I took it to the dealer they said it was the injector so they replace them now about 50 hrs latter it doing the same thing and it out of warranty I change the filter and put and addivate to the fuel each time I fuel and I always keep my tank full is it hard to clean the injector or what do you remend
Don, My questions are regarding winter storage and the ethonol gasoline. The "experts" on my dock have been debating this. One thing we all agreed on, was to use Startron. I figured that I would go to a real expert. The actual questions are: "What do you recommend for winter storing of a gasoline powered boat in Connecticut where we are forced to use E10 gasoline?", "Should I leave the gas tank 90% full or nearly empty?" Thanks, David
Don Casey, I have a 4.3 Merc V6 with a 2bbl carb. Lately I have experienced a bog down, fouled plugs,and low oil pressure. I think the carb may be dumping too much fuel fouling the plugs and thinning the oil. Does this sound like a potential diagnosis to you for this problem and if so, what do you recommend as a course of action? Thanks, Sheister
Don,twin Merc 220 sterndrives (1999) and am looking to use a synthetic engine oil like Amsoil to get better performance from my engines. Are there any problems you are awear of or should I stick with normal marine grade 4 cylce oil? Thanks Steve Ham
Don, I had heard that my diesel engines actually return unused fuel back to the tanks and in effect polish the fuel. Is this correct? By running my boat am I also cleaning my tanks?
DON, Can you tell me if the gas tank on a 1999 Starcraft Aurora 2405 model will be contaminnated by the use of E10 fuel; what about a higher % of ethanol?? Thanks, Rich
Dear Don: Can you provide advice on whether to install a fuel/water separator and how/where to install the separator? I recently purchased a year 2000, 17" center console with a 70 horsepower outboard. Like many others, I have experienced problems with E10, ethanol blended fuels. I have replaced the anti-siphon valve, all the gas line hoses with alcohol-resistent hoses, and the dirty fuel filter. I checked with the boat manufacturer on the fuel tank. They said that it is, "a fuel tank constructed of a cross-link non-corrosive polyethylene. It is a type of plastic that is safe to use with ethanol blended fuel, and you do not need to worry about corrosion." My boat runs better than ever after all the parts replacements so is it worth installing a separator?
Please help, I have a 1997 wellcraft 2400 which I purchased new. It has a 5.7LX with 4 barrel carb. Last season I changed the manifolds & risers. Boat is seldom used. I noticed the port manifold is cool and starboard is hot. So hot you can't leave your hand on the riser for any lenght of time. So far I had the drive impeller changed-checked all hoses-replaced the thermostat-manifolds & risers are not pluged. The only thing left I can think of is the riser gaskets. I'm pretty sure the gaskets on both sides are the same. The flow holes are small(restricted). Can it be the each side takes a different gasket? Is it normal to have such a temperature difference? The butterfly in the starboard exhaust has been changed twice. Engine # OK147452 Mercruiser. No balls in thermostat housing, just 4 straight hose connections. Thanks for your help, Robert Ilaria
I have a 35.5 Hunter with a 29HP Yanmar (new in 2002). When coming into the dock if I get below 1000rpm the engine stalls particularly when shifting from forward to reverse, even though I take my time and hold in neutral briefly between shifts.Do I need to do some adjusting? I've tried powering way down well before arriving at the dock, shifting to neutral and revving the engine prior to approaching the dock, and any number of other solutions offered up by the dock rats but I still have this problem. The fuel filters were changed this spring, and the engine runs like a top above 1000 rpms. Any suggestions?
Hi Don Casey, One of the manifolds (raw water) on my 454 Crusaders is hot to touch, where the other (3) are only warm. The engine is not overheating. I also pulled the first hose off and inspected the water jacket. It is clear and I also started the engine briefly. There seems to be plenty of flow. Could there be something going on at the thermostat housing? Is it possible that the semmingly higher temperature is within normal operating limits? Any ideas - seems strange to me. I appreciate your thoughts. Mark Celmer St. Joseph, MI
Hi Don, I recently took my boat out and found that it ran well at idle but as soon as I throttled up the engine seemed to have bogged down. At first I had thought that it might have been the choke on the carb, but after checking it I found it was working fine. I spoke with my mehcanic who told me it is a fuel delivery issue. I recently chenged the fuel water seperator, and fuel filter. I also have a fiberglass fuel tank. Can you please help me as I'm going crazy trying to figure out the problem
Hello, I have a 1999 Mercury 175 outboard and I have not yet used the new fuel this year in my boat. I am now down to a quarter tank of gas and trying to determine how I need to handle the old fuel in my tank and the new fuel that I will be putting in. I have spoken to so many people that my head is spinning about what the right thing to do is. What suggestions do you have for the situation or where can I look for more specific answers? Thank you
Hi Don, I have a 1978 Gulfstar 44 MC with twin Perkin 130 diesels. The starboard and port engine shafts drip several times in a minute (one probably twice as often as the other). While the bilge pump handles the water easily, I would like to tighten the shaft nuts to decrease the dripping. I have been told that 1 drip per minute is about right. I certainly want to keep the through-hull packing moist to avoid disentegration. Is there a rule of thumb as to the optimal drips per minute? Thanks for your help, Kim
I tried to avoid the problems with the new gas, but I think it gummed up the engine on my 1985 Volvo Penta AQ125B/270 on my 1985 Bayliner. The engine was running fine for the first 4 times I used it this year. Then it stalled when I accellerated. I was able to restart, but then it stalled again when I accellerated and I could not restart. Does this sound like a fuel issue ? If so, where do I start, fuel filter, carburetor, etc ? And how do I keep it from happening again ?
I'VE BEEN TOLD THE COAST GUARD DOES NOT ALLOW PLASTIC SEE THRU BOWLS AT THE BOTTOM OF FUEL/WATER SEPARATOR FILTER UNITS, ON COMMERCIAL VESSELS. THEY MUST BE METAL BOWLS. DO YOU KNOW IF THIS ALSO APPLIES TO NON COMMERCAL PLEASURE BOATS? THANKS...DAVID
Hi I have a small boat 20 feet with an outboard engine 2003. I was anchoring in shallow water and when I brought up the engine a large branch was on it. It seemed to put a small upward curve on one of the blades of the prop. Is it necessary to do anything about this now? I only boat on the Great South Bay, on Long Island, NY and the boat is professionally serviced in the winter. Thanks Denise
Don, I have a 1977 Trawler with the standard Lehman engines and my Insurance Company has noted that my Racor fuel filters are not a type recommended for marine use, since they do not carry the UL Marine labling. Apparently the UL Marine type have a metal flame bowl surrounding the Lexan bowl and a bronze plug in the bottom of the Lexan bowl. They say that the filters cannot technically be upgraded to the UL Marine requirement, but as a acceptable alternative, the Heat Deflector Shield, Drain Valve, and Bowl Drain Fitting can be pruchased and installed. My question to you is, what exactly is the standard for the above recommendation and where woould I find the suggested "retrofit" components? Thank you, Jim Anderson
Ok...I am new to this...I recently bought a 1986 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge 2550 boat from Wisconsin. I am putting it on a mountain reservoir here in Colorado at an altitude of 8500 ft. What prop should I buy? The manual states decrease prop pitch 2" for each 2500 ft elev above sea level. I need some help. It is equipped with a 260V Volvo Penta setup.
Hi Don, I have a 1988 Bertram with gas engines and a fiberglass fuel tank. I understand that E-10 gasoline may cause serious deterioration of these tanks built in the mid 1980's and prior. I would like to avoid changing out a premium tank for one of lesser quality if at all possible, especially since I am not sure that the E-10 will attack this late 1980's tank. I've contacted customer service at Bertram on several occasions concerning this problem, but sadly they will not respond. What would you advise? Currently my boat is running on straight gasoline, but will be out of fuel soon. Thank you for your help. Art Marks, Cape May, NJ firstname.lastname@example.org
I repowered my Luhrs sportfish last year. When doing a general inspection of the engines I found 3 broken hose clamps. These clamps broke 180 degrees from screws; on the solid part of the strap. All of the breaks looked clean. There was no sign of corrosion on the clamps. Two of the clamps were on the air side of the turbo and the other was on the presure side of the raw water pump. All of the clamps had a second clamp next to it. I don't think they broke due to pressure or I think the hose would have let go first. Three questions 1 - Why did they break? 2 - When replacing these clamps should I use titanium? 3 - When replacing the clamps should they be installed with the screws 180 degrees apart? Jim Ward
I have a 1988 25 ft. sea ray sterndrive alpha 1 260HP outdrive, engine is 5.7 L, 350. Recently I have been getting some vibration coming from the outdrive, today it get bad, I cannot go over approx. 2000 rpm's because as I increase the speed the vibration get worse. Do you know what the problem can be? Thank you, Mike
I am purchasing a 36' Silverton with Crusader 454 XL engines,425 hrs, used only in the Great Lakes. I plan to move the boat to FL in salt water. Is it worth $5,000 to $7,000 to install closed cooling systems for the engines & generator? Thanks Bob
I was cruising at 3500 rpm's and when I looked down to scan my gages I noted the rpm gage now registered 4500 without touching the throttle. Also every once in awaile when I transit from cruising at 1000rpm to full throttle the engine races but the prop does not seem to bite. When I throttle back and try again a short time later it transits just fine. Any connection?
DON PLEASE HELP, I HAVE A 2000 BAYLINER TROPHY THAT I PURCHASED NEW AND KEPT IT THE WAY NOW I HAVE A PROBLEM MY BOAT HAS A 4.3 ENGINE 2 BARREL CARB WITH AN ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP & IGNITION CONTROL MODULE. I FILLED THE FUEL TANK LAST OCTOBER & PUT STABILE IN IT .I TOOK IT OUT THE FIRST TIME THIS YEAR & IT WAS FINE,REFILLED THE TANK AND ON THE NEXT TRIP THE ENGINE WOULD NOT IDLE & STALL BUT IF YOU FEATHER THE THROTTLE IT WOULD RUN & WOULD HAVE NO PROBLEM AT PART OR FULL THROTTLE.CHANGED THE WATER FUEL SEPERATOR & SEEMED BACK TO NORMAL FOR THIRDTRIP.ON THE 4TH TRIP OUT THE ENGINE SSTARTED STALLING AT IDLE AGAIN.IF YOU CRANK THE ENGINE IN NNEUTRAL IT WON'T START ,IF YOU THROTTLE DOWN & BACKTO NEATRAL IT WILL START FOR A SECOND THEN STALL IF YOU FEATHER THE THROTTLE IT WILL START & GO PART & FULL THROTTLE NO PROBLEM GO TO NEAUTRAL DEAD STALL. THE ENGINE WILL IDLE IF YOU KEEP SQUIRTING CARB CLEANER INTO THE CARBURATOR .COULD A BAD FUEL PUMP STARVE AN ENGINE AT IDLE & NOT AT PART & FULL THROTTLE? PLEASE RESPOND ASAP.
Don, There is a particular brand of fuel addidtive (Star Tron by Starbrite) that is claiming to be a cure all for the potential problems associated with 10 % ethynol in gasoline. They claim that the product eliminates phase seperation caused by the presence of water (condensation) in gasoline. This new to us here in NJ. I am presently running my tanks to near empty and about ready to refuel for the first time this year. Any advise would be appriciated. Thanks, Dave
I have twin cummins diesels that when accelerating the port tachometer looses rpm's on the gauge , however the engine is still accelerating. Could it be the tachometer? The boat will cruise at 2400 rpm , with or without engine syncronizers but the port tach shows zero.
Don My 2003 Hunter 306 has a Whitlock single lever shifter which freezes when subjected to prolonged use, such docking practice. My mechanic has not been able to find the problem. The transmission may have cooled by the time it gets to the mechanic. What can I do get this corrected?
I have a mercrusier 5.7 EFI on my Crownline 242CR. The gas tank is above the engine and the fuel line from the tank to the enghine connects at the bottom of the engine. The line is cracked and I'd like to change it. I have the appropriate fuel hose, however I need to know if the line is under pressure or can I just remove it and change it?
Hi Don! We are new to the "stern drive" world. My daughter and I ran our 03 Chaparral - 5.0 GXi/SX into a fine, gravel bar over the weekend. Being a novice boater, I used the forward / reverse of the engine to get off the bar. As soon as we were off, the warning beeper was starting to go off and soon the engine shut down to idle speed. We shut the engine off and let it cool. We checked the intake holes on the drive and all was clear. We let the engine cool down and restarted. Each time it the engine tempature would rise back to the danger zone so we caught a friend to tow us in. The next morning I connected a water hose to the cooling system input between the drive unit and the pump on the crank. I disconnected the input hose to the thermostat housing. When we turned the water on it belched out fine gravely sand and mud from the hose and also from the drive unit. Once it ran clean we reconnected the input hose and checked the thermostat housing and thermostat. We then fired the engine and clean water ran from all the right places... After putting the boat back into the water, it still gets hot under load and cools back down at idle. We pulled the thermostat and checked it on the stove in a pan of water and it opens an closes. Do we need a new "impeller"? Any special tools needed? Also if it is damaged or destroyed where did the fragments go? Sorry for the length, wanted to give you all details avaiable.
Hello Don, I have an 1997 Four Winns 200 Horizon. Two years ago to the day I had my shifter cable replaced. I took my boat out on Fourth of July and it was very hard to get it in forward or reverse. This was the first time this year. The cable itself isn't that expensive it's the labor charges that get me.My outdrive is a Volvo Penta. Is there any downloads or manuals that explain how you take the shifter apart and then reinstall it.I have Clymer's VP shop manual and there's nothing in it. HELP!!! Ed Ulaky
I have a 1987 Sea Ray Sundancer 268 with a rebuilt 1999 5.7 Mercruiser 250 HP. Problem is I can't get it to start. I was starting it on a weekly basis, in prep for selling it, and one weekend it would not start. I replaced the ICM or ICU which ever the computer module is, the cap, rotor and ignition sensor. Still won't go. I discovered that the automatic choke is stuck in the full open position but I don't think that will prevent it from starting. Please respond to my email address groyle@optonline as I no longer use the old one. Thanks
Hi Don, I have an '85 Century Grande 300 with twin 230 inboards. Just bought the boat used. My starboard engine does not match the rpm of the port engine -- there is a 500 rpm difference at full throttle and it won't plane and pulls right. When warm in neutral they both rev at about 10k, but when I increase throttle evenly, the port engine runs from 2-3 hundred rpm higher. Other than a thorough tune-up, what else might be the problem? By the way, just got your book Sailboat Electics Simplified. It's fantastic. For a novice like me, it's a life saver!!! Thanks! Rich
We had our 260 Mercruiser engine winterized by the dealer last fall and ran stabil through the engine thoroughly before winterizing. An oil change was part of winterization. The engine has a knocking or tapping sound when underway, which fresh fuel has not seemed to alleviate. Oil pressure and level are fine. What could cause this sound, and should we try a fuel additive to clean the engine? If so, any reports on the new valvtec fuel or fuel additive? Thanks, Laurie
While under sail - Is it true that you don't want the gear sitting in Neutral position but, in fact want to place the gear into Reverse while under sail? Using a Standard 2 blade propeller. Can you expand on an explanation of why?
i own a 1998 Cruisers 3650 with twin 7.4 litre mercruisers. my starboard engine runs at about 195 degrees at 3000 rpms but my port engine runs at about 175 at 3000 rpms. I flushed the heat exchangers backwards but it didn't make a difference. When i slow the engines to about 2400 rpms the engines come down to about 160. I do notice the the oil presssure on the starboard engine will drop slightly as the engine temp increases which is likely to occur as the oil gets warmer and thins but it never goes lower than about 45 lbs. when the engine is at 195. Both engine impellers have been replaced with no difference. Any ideas? Bob Harris
What are the expected problems with Ethanol in the gas? We have a 1964 41 Hatteras DC with original tanks. If we must replace our tanks, what time frame are we looking at? What is the best material for the tanks? AND, what is Boat US doing to try to stop this travesty?
What is the procedure to align the propeller shaft to the transmission in a sail boat? After replacing the cutlass bearing and re-attaching the shaft I had to lift the shaft a bit to get it to slip onto the ridge on the transmission coupling. Measuring with a feeler gauge the gap was the same all the way around. The vibration has been reduced but not by much. So I was thinking maybe the engine needs to be re aligned to the propeller shaft. Thanks in advance.
I own a 1990 Sea ray 250DA with a 7.4 Bravo Mercruiser with 334 hours on it. When running the engine I get a small oil slick coming out of the coolant water(assuming oil). I know it is not hydrolic fluid as this occurs while running it on my driveway as well. There is no milky/foaming of the oil on the dip stick(bad head gasket). Also, my oil cooler has been changed and this did not fix the problem. I rarely need to add oil to the engine(aproximately 1 quart every 15-20 hours). Also, level of fluid in the outdrive resevoir does not decrease. Any ideas where this leak can be coming from?
Dear Don, As a woman who is learning a lot about sailing and sailboats, I am eager to find some answers. I spent 4 weeks alone on our boat having work done on, updating her and have been doing the "trial by fire" method to learn about our boat. My husband's job kept him off the boat during this time. I am a new sailor my husband has many years of experience. We have a 1974 Cal 46' sailboat which is new to us. In motoring our last trip from Santa Barbara to Ventura we noticed a new sound, or rather vibration noise. As we bought our Cal in Southern California and only got her half way UP the coast before weather caught us, we have been waiting for weather to clear to bring her "home." We are planning on motoring our boat north to Monterey Bay in the next couple of weeks, BUT, of course, we want to first address this vibration. The engine purrs no problem, the stuffing box seems okay, but had a VERY small leak, which has been fixed (still has the needed drip with working). Could this noise be caused from a stuffing box problem? Also, our prop is in fair condition (it is on the list to replace), but has not seemed to be a problem up to this point. We have had her bottom cleaned and inspected monthly. So we have checked for obstruction on the prop, etc. My question is this. Would you please give me ALL the most likely causeS for this vibration/noise. It seems to only to be noticeable over 1600 rpms. Since we are trying to move her up to where we live soon, we would like to try to address ALL possibilties to get her motoring safely as soon as possible. Thanks in advance :), Light
Have a 2000 200HP Evinrude Motor. Just started recently once in a while the up button won't work on the tilt and trim button on the trottle. When it doesn't work the trim tilt button on the motor does not work either. The same thing, the up button, down is ok. Just checking, the mechanic said today, if they both are not working at the same time, it is not the switch but something called the solanoid. Does that correct. The fluid is ok, I checked that also. thanks
Hi Don! I know that Boat US is actively involved with the ehanol catastrophy going on but I happen to be one of the guys with an old Hatteras (67). I have done some research on the State Of Maryland archives in particular COLREGS which address fuel dispensing in this state and in their definitions they refer to "internal combustion engines" and "motor vehicle fuel". Now we know that a boat is not a motor vehicle which uses the roads, and the way I interpret this is that ethanol fuel should not be dispensed at marinas for use in a motor vessel. I e-mailed the Dept of Environment several weeks ago but of course did not get a reply. I e-mailed Hatteras and they said they are waiting to see what Boat US comes up with. They are also of the opinion that ehanol may also cause other problems downstream from the fuel tanks. Why can't ethanol fuel be mixed with non-ethanol fuel? How do I not mix it without running my boat totally out of fuel? Please keep me posted on this ethanol situation as I burn out 180 gallons of good cheaper gas to get ready to fill up with crappy expensive gas and get prices for new aluminum tanks. This is like a physician prescribing medicine that he knows will cause cancer. Thanks a lot. Lou
Before launching this year I repacked the stuffing box and changed the zinc on my prop shaft. I moved the boat from the launch slip into an adjacent slip and had no noticable problems. I later moved the boat from the temporary slip into my permanent slip. All of these moves were very short distances, no more than four or five slips apart. When moving to the permanent slip the boat backed normally. In forward I experienced a slight vibration that seemed to be related to the prop shaft. When I eased into reverse there was a prounced "wobble" kind of vibration. I thought it might be that the zinc was loose or out of balance. When I installed it it wouldn't close completetly around the shaft. There was about a 1/4" gap on both sides. The yard mechanic said that was fine. If the zinc is still tight is it possible for it to unbalance the shaft or is it more likely I did something wrong when repacking the stuffing box?
I am purchasing a 2003 Meridian 49 pilothouse, w/ 370 Cummins When the survey was done it was noted that the propeller's are 4 blade, starb. 24 x 24 and the port 24 x 22, can you explain why the pitch is different ? ( note I ran the serial # with the factory and was told it originally had 2- 24 x 24 props )
What is the proper procedure to change transmission oil? Should it be hot or can it just be drained?
I have a 1998 Bayliner with mercruiser inboard outboard. What precausions do I take when using the new ethanol gas? I still have 3/4 tank of winter gas and have installed a new water separator. Are their any special filtewrs needed? I have a buddy who owns a Grady White with a 225 2 stroke Yamaha outboard. What if any are the precausions he should take? He has installed a new water separator and also has 3/4 tank of winter gas. Are there any special filters needed?
Boat gas is my question. I recently read an item that said that the gas sold at marinas was a special gas formulated for boats. That it has special additives required for boat engines. Is this correct or just a marketing ploy to help justify the higher price for gas at marinas??? Dave
Hey Don, you must have stock in the oil industry to suggest that 50 hours is the routine oil change interval for a diesel engine. This is not so--not even close. Most manufacturers recommend changing oil at 200 hours or more. I certainly agree that more frequent oil changes MAY extend engine life, but there's a point of diminishing returns in changing too frequently. As long as your filter can still remove the abrasives and your oil additives are alive and well, oil changing is not beneficial. Your recommendation for 50 or even more unjustifiable chaging at 25 hours would require me to go from one oil change a season to 5 to 10 changes. At 10 gallons of oil per change (at least 4-5 gallons for most diesels), you asking us to needlessly waste oil and increase our expense. Don't scare the unknowing into needless oil changes! Gil
I read your recommendation to change engine oil in the fall when winterizing and in the spring when commissioning. In the spring, that engine oil doesn't have but one hour on it, if that. There are no contaminants in the oil. Can you please explain your logic? Just because oil is relatively inexpensive doesn't justify a wasterful change. For car and boat maintenance, I have researched many oils and many opinions. I've covered synthetics, blends, viscosities, boats, race cars, big trucks, and even military specifications for oil changes (they test samples). Even Amsoil, wo runs the 50,000* mile oil for trucks (yes the asterick again) states that it is 50,000 miles OR once a year, whichever is less. This backs your position on annual changes, but not fall and spring back-to-back changes. Please provide furhter justification if we are to believe. Thanks.
I don't understand the advice to change my boat engine oil in the spring if I changed it in the fall before winterizing it and never ran the engine during the winter. Are you saying brand new engine oil harms your engine over time even it the engine was never running? Thanks, Sean
I have a 2004 Key West 2020 Bluewater CC, powered by a Yammaha 150 4x stroke of the same year (manuf. date is 12/03)....will I be ok with the new ethanol gas being introduced her in NJ soon???
One of my inboards is overheating at idle but fine once I speed up. I have twin 1988 FWC Crusader 270's. Boat is used almost exclusively in the Chesapeake above the bay bridge. Manifolds and risers were replaced in 2000. Thermosats are 160 degrees as recommeded by Crusader. In the slip and at idle one engine slowly heats up to 190 degrees. There's a bit of steam to start and LOT of steam at 190. The other engine idles at 160 degrees with just a bit of steam. If I bump the RPMs up to 3000 the steam goes away and the temperature drops back to 160. I don't mind changing the impeller(s) but I'm wondering if I could be my heat exchanger or engine circulating pump.
I want to replace my sailboat with a used power boat that I will operate at displacement speed in salt water. The answers to my questions to dealers depend on what they have in inventory. Which is better diesel or gas and does the difference justify the price. I would also appreciate your thoughts on inboard vs stern drive. Thanks
There are now Marine synthetic oils on the market certified by various marine engine manufactures. The synthetics certifications appear impressive--do recommend using them now. Thanks--Scott Liggett
I have twin Bravo III I/O's - so far I have been told that: The first way: - You can 'totally' winterize these outdrives by connecting the rabbit ears with a 6' hose attached, going into a 5 gal. pail of anti-freeze, start the engine and run the anti-freeze (about 7 gal's)through the engine until it comes out the out drive into a large pan. The second way: - Connect the rabbit ears to the outdrive, run water though the engine until it is the right tepemperature for the thermostat open, disconnect the hose at the thermostat & fill it up with antifreeze until it over over flows ~ and that is it. Yet ~ what worries me about this way is, in the spring - I went to drain the engine by unscrewing the 'blue' drain plug and about 5 gallons of fresh water came flowing out - no anti-freeze. If there is another way that can be explained in detail step by step, I would be very grateful for the infoemation as to what exactly is the correct way to do it~ ~ Thank you very much for your time.
I went to check my transmission oil,when ipulled out the dipstick,the dipstick assembly fell in, This is a rubber part and a small washer,I cant see it ,took apart theinlet or outlet on other side and still cant see or feel anything,(Velvet drive) sorry.can i leve it in there,or will it harm my transmission. If i need to get it out . how do i do that? thank you , George. B
Can you tell me the pros and cons for using gasoline containing ethanol on marine engines and fuel systems?
Some time ago a read an article that talked about using WD-40 to start a diesel that had lost its prime. But I can't find the article or remember the details. Can you help me? Thanks.. Jim Bode
We are trying to replace the anodes on our mercruiser motor and have gotten ourselves very confused. We hope you can help. We do all of our boating in salt water. We've been told that we should use zinc anodes for sure in salt water, however another source has said the water type doesn't matter, the type of motor does. Is there a way to tell the type of metal that we are taking off? We have purchased all zinc replacements (we still have a couple to replace that we haven't been able to find anywhere but your site). The zinc replacements feel much heavier than the anodes we are taking off of our boat. Does it matter the type of anode we get as long as all of them are the same metal compound? Thank you in advance for your assistance.
my 1987 omc cobra 5.7 litre has been serviced by 3 different companies during my 15 years of ownership. please help wiith the following questions. 1; will using synthetic gear lube damage the seals in my out drive and is it better than standard? 2; is servicing the gimbal bearing thru the exterior grease fitting on the out drive,with the drive installed sufficient annual maintinance. 3; while changing the gear lube should the refill be done thru the drain plug or the plug a few inchs above , which the manual calls the fill plug? thank you for your help
what do we do about the gas and fiberglass tanks Have and old 78 shamrock with fiberglass tank additive ???? what do we do????
I recently had an exhaust hose fail on the way back to port. In removing the failed hose I noticed some sealant on the hose end. My replacement should be here soon so I'm wondering what is the recommended sealant for this hose application. My exhaust system uses seawater.
Hi Don, I Bought a 1990 Carver Aft cabin 38' It has twin 502's Crusaders engines. I was told that they were optional engines for the carver's. Also I was told Occasionally I will have to add maybe one qt of oil every 20 to 30 hrs of running time because the 502's are known for dripping some oil from the engine's but that is normal for then. Is this correct? Thanks Ed email@example.com
we are going to do the Great Loop starting out from the Chesapeake Bay in May, up the NJ coast into the Hudson, St Lawrence, Rideau & Trent Severn waterways, Great lakes, Mississippi, TenTom to the Gulf, down Florida and up the ICW to home next spring. I plan to do a haul out in Florida in Decmeber & replace the anodes. No question there, they will zinc since we will be in salt water for the remainder of the trip. My question: Should I use zinc for the initial install(includes shafts, hull plate & tabs)or shoudl I give consdieration to either aluminum or magnesium? Since the majority of the trip for the first 6 months will be in fresh water and we intend to stay the majority of nights in marinas will zinc protect the parts? I have asked manufacturers but got no response.
Dear Don, I have a 27 year old Westerbeke 30 in my old Pearson 35. The engine has not been rebuilt and runs well. It does not use oil, or have any visible exhaust except some white smoke for the first 30 seconds or so after starting. During the season it starts easily. My problem comes late in the season. When the temperature gets near or bellow freezing at night, it will be almost impossible to start the next morning. It has always been hard to start when very cold, but the condition has gotten worse in the last two years. If I spray a little starting fluid on a rag and just place it near the air intake it will start immediately. What do you think is going on? Also I recently had an oversized prop on the engine, which would not allow it to reach its maximum normal RPMS. I was surprised to find that the engine did not smoke in this situation it just refused to rev any higher. Is this indicitive of a problem? I have had the prop re pitched and I am doing well under power. However I am curious because everything I've read lead me to believe that the engine would emit black smoke when laboring. Thanks in advance for your reply Peter
hello, i have a 454 crusader carb. motor, the motor starts fine when cold, but when warm will not restart without shutting off the fuel and cranking until it fires then turning the fuel back on and restarting. What would cause this? thanks for any help u can give.
Can you replace a cutlass bearing without removing the shaft and strut? Thanks Gary Phila Pa
WHERE COULD I GET CUSTOM MADE PLASTIC GAS TANKS MADE FOR MY 31 BERTRAM?
Don, I've recently purchased a new boat that I will be keeping in the water this year. The boat is powered by twin four stroke outboards. Is there any way to change the engine oil while the boat is still in the water or will I have to have it hauled out??
Don, I have twin 2003 Mercury Alpha One Gen II sterndrives with stainless steel propellers. Boat is docked in Brackish water in NJ. I have a corrosion problem on both units, more prevelent on the lower units. I have a galvanic isolator, but no Mercathode units. I have conflicting information from multiple sources. Some say the Mercathode units helps, some say they don't and I am better off connecting a large piece of Zinc to ground and throughing it overboard in the water. How do I trouble shoot this problem? Do mercathode units work? Does the large zinc connected to ground and throwing it overboard work? Please help I'm confused on how to fix this problem.
don - I have a trailable Sea Ray 290 which I almost always gas up at roadside gas stations, which means 10% ethanol gas. I read and hear various opionions on the ramifications of 10% ethanol. What is your expert opinion on this issue in regard to efficiency of gas use, engine performance, offseason storage, etc. Thanks. Wally
motor info 225 johnson ocean runner paid 4500 blew no 1 piston rebuilt 1500 blew again is there a noted problem with engine or should i rebuild again 6000$ in motor mechanic does not return calls loosening interest fast please help all hapened within 1 year
Hi Don I own a 1986 29 foot Sea Fox Express with twin 270 Crusader inboards. At the end of last season I had a problem with my port engine. I couldn't go over 10 knots before smoke would come from below the water line and the engine would vibrate.I did get caught up on a mud bar earlier, and when the boat was pulled out of the water for the winter I did see that my port propeller had a kind of a ripple in one of the blades. Do you think the problem could be cavitation, and if it is do you think I can have the prop reconditioned or should I replace it? Thanks for any help you can give.
What would a reasonably life expectancy be for coolant hoses and fuel lines be on a Catalina 30, kept on freshwater. At what frequency would you recommend replacement? THANKS
Hi Don I am looking at 25'-28' Albemarle and Carolina Classic boats. They both have the "jackshaft" to an IO or the inboard setups. The primary use will be in the FL Keys and I thought the jackshaft would work best but I am getting alot of negative advise to have an IO in salt water without keeping it on a lift.The boat would not be left in the water for more than 5 weeks at a time.What do you think? Also, what are your thoughts on having a bracket with outboards on the 25' models instead of the other two? Thanks Steve Degnan
I purchased two 4 blade 24x25 NiBrAl props they are the same size but one ways 10lb more then the other will this have any effect on the preformance on a 37 Silverton MY twin 454hp? Thanks for your help.
I blew my motor at the end of last season,a suzuki 225 2 stroke.I'm thinking of buying a suzuki 250 4 stroke 2004 new left over still in the crate.The new motor is counter rotating,I would be saving about 2,500.00.The motor would be installed on a 2000 25' C-Hawk Sport Cabin w/ a 9'6' beam by a dealer who sold the boat.My question to you is:Is there any reason why this may not be a wise choice,performance,machanical,or safety.Thank you,Richard Bleau
I seem to get a lot of rust and scale off the motor mounts of my mercruser 310 HP IO\OB engine in my 2000 Sea Ray 260 Overnighter. Is this to be expected? And if not, how often should you need to change the motor mounts. Thank You John Reilly
I have an 84 glasstron with a 305 mercruiser i/o.When i put my boat in gear, or go from forward to reverse the boat stalls. I know there is a switch that is supposed to temporarly stall the engine so a shift can be made.My question is do those switches comonly fail, or is this a cable adjustment problem.The reason i ask is the problem seemed to happen quickly, not over time, and the exact same thing has happened to a friends boat at the same time.His is a different year and size engine. thank you for your help. Robert Ommodt
I have a 2004 osprey 24 with a volvo-Penta 5.0 closed cooling system that has a running temp of 160 deg. It ia also so connected to a heater inside my cabin. But at 160 deg it realy dose not get the cabin warm on cold spring mornings. Do they make and can you put in a hotter running thermostat like a 180 deg. just for the spring and fall when the temp drops to 40-50 deg. I use this boat for diving
I am currently looking at purchasing a 2002 Cruiser 3470. It has everthing I want except FWC engines, which afre important to me. Is it difficult and expensive to install FWC systmes after market? What would you estimate the cost would be? Thanks
Don, I have noticed that not all inboard vessels sport shaft zincs. Are they needed in fresh water? Also, Are they there to protect just the shafts or do they protect engine and transmission components also? Your answer will make or break my "buy you a beer bet" with a friend. Thanks, William Glass
I own a 1985 28' Bertram..you got it fiberglass fuel tank! and live on Long Island, NY. Ethanol in our fuel...Does anybody know if and when Bertram change their resin formula? Or did they just go to medal tanks? Having just repowered, this issue is very important to me. Thank you....Member since 1982..Glassbullet...Don
i boaT IN AN AREA WITH RFG GAS (10% ETHANOL IN THEORY). MY BOAT IS A 1966 BERTRAM 25' WITH BUILTIN FIBERGLASS FUEL TANKS. NOW FOR THE PROBLEM. JUST REPOWERED WITH 3.0 LITER MERCRUISERS. AFTER 3 HOURS 2 INTAKE ROCKER ARM STUDS PULLED OUT.(IN ONE ENGINHE, OTHER STILL 0K.) MERCRUISER SAYS PROBLEM IS GAS. IS THIS SO ???? OR IS IT THE TANK ?? OR A COMBO OF THE ABOVE.
Mr Casey, i have a 1998 Searay 270 Sundancer w/ 7.4L bravoIII. My problem is my trim indicater gauge doesn't seem to work correctly. Last spring after running the boat a few times, i noticed the gauge would bounce when i changed the trim angle. By later in the season it stopped moving all together, and is pegged in the up position. The power trim itself works fine. Any thoughts? thanks Jon M.
Don, While talking with a rep from Mercruiser, I was advised to use zinc anodes rather than the factory spec'd aluminum on my boat. It stays in brackish water year round in Southwest Fla. I currently have to change the outdrive anodes 3 times a year. Is that about right, or will I get better protection with zinc? I have a 2004 Splendor Craft 24' cuddy. Thanks for your help.
Bought a 1999 Bayliner with 7.4L engine and bravo 3 drive. Does this type of boat have a transmission ? If so would it have a dip stick to check the transmission fluid level?
Could you advise on the proper size of the thru-hull, valve, hose & strainer for the raw water intake side on a 1988 turbocharged 3208 caterpillar diesel making 320 hp? Thanks.
My 1990 Sea Ray has twin Mercruiser 7.4l 454 340hp fresh water cooled gas engines. They have about 650 hours each and have been well maintained. A recent compression test was good except for one cylinder was at 120. The port engine has developed a problem with a surge or reduction from a RPM setting. It constantly, at random, will surge from a setting of say 2500RPM to 3000RPM. I will adjust the throttle (not slaved) and shortly it will reduce RPM's on its own. The throttle does not move and I hear the change in the engines. Then shortly it will do it again, only at higher RPM's never at headway speeds. Suggestions so far are: air leak, wiring, mis-firing cylinder (wiring), fuel metering, fuel pump. I plan to have solid state ignitions installed this winter. Do you think this will help? For my yard to go searching for a solution will be expensive. Can you suggest the best avenue to pursue first?
Don: When checking the oil in my Westerbeke diesel generator (only 400 hours - no problems), the oil was a light grayish color and like a slurry. My mechanic thinks coolant leak so he had the head magnafluxed and it was OK. Now he says either cracked cylinder wall or block - need new genny. My research says the color is possibly from raw water and the problem sources are less disasterous than a bad block. What do you think? Bruce
Thank you in advance. I have been asked by members of my YC how to flush a yanmar 18 hp engine. I have yanmar products YG30 anti-freeze and additive FPPF4000. I'm assuming that the additive is not a flush. To flush the engine should I use an automotive flush chemical and flush as you would an auto. John Z , Chocowinity
Don - As I was winterizing my Beneteau 331 this fall, I ran into a problem with the fuel filter. Even though I had shut off the fuel valve and was sure no fuel was flowing from the fuel tank (no fuel was flowing through the water separator), fuel continued to flow after removing the fuel filter canister. After collecting fuel in multiple containers, I ended up changing the filter without stopping the flow. Then I remembered reading that a diesel engine has a return line to the fuel tank. With the tank full for the winter and sitting higher than the engine in the stern of the boat, is it possible the fuel was siphoning back to the engine through the return line? I assume I can solve this problem by putting a shut-off value in the return line? Should it be mounted as close to the fuel tank as possible? NOTE: Engine is a 3 cylinder Westerbeke 27 hp. Steve
Don; What keeps sea water from entering the boat when repacking a stuffing box, and the existing packing is removed.
I have dripless seals for the shafts on my boat. I need to get my boat tow to a marina for repairs. I was told if the engines are not running, no cooling water is sent to the seals and due to the props turing during the tow, seals will burn up and leak. What position should I put the transmission in ( neturel/in geer) while the boat is under tow? Also I notice a brown scum a the bottom of my engine coolent recovery bottle. What could that be? I flushed the fresh water system and added new coolent,but the brown scum is still visible after running the engine.
Read your article "Servicing Your Stuffing Box" - WONDERFUL, but I have a few questions. I own a 1969 Grand Banks 42 Classic which I have restored. The stuffing box is not rigidly attached to the hull; starting at the hull there is a length of flexible hose, followed by a threaded sleeve. The shaft comes up through the hull, through the flexible hose then through the threaded sleeve - a 2-inch nut is the final piece which tightens down against the locking nut on the threaded sleeve. Do I push the flax down into the space between the shaft and the inside of the threaded sleeve (toward the hull) or does the flax go inside the 2-inch long top nut that locks against the nut on the threaded sleeve? If you have a diagram it would be helpful. Sorry to be such a dummy but I have always had this done by the boat yard when the boat is out of the water . I need to replace the flax packing before the boat is hauled next. Thank you so much in advance for your help, Thom
Any input on effectiveness and reliability of using the new Startron diesel additive on the market from StarBrite? The marketinng propaganda sounds impressive, but was wondering if there are any reported experiences or analyses supporting its claims. Was considering using it for my Yanmar 3GM on my sailboat. Due to distance I live from my boat, it doesn't get the consistent engine hours put on it that I should like. So was hoping this might help me in maintaining both the engine, fuel, and fuel delivery systems. Appreciate any reliable data or reports that you may be hearing of. Steve Burlington, NC
This should be an easyone. I have 454 Multiport injected Horizen Motors. How do I fog the engines? Can I spray fogging oil or do the plugs need to be pulled. I've been told 2 stroke oil can be put in the fuel filter. Help Thanks, Scott
I have a 1998 23 ft bowrider with a 5.7 Volvo Penta GS engine. We have overheated a couple of times, once due to a bad water pump and once due to a bad impeller. It wasn't running very long (1-2 minutes) before the engine shut off but some of the external plastic parts started to smoke. Then engine seems to run fine, but slightly noisier than before. What damage could this cause? Do these type of engines typically have an automatic shutoff for overheating that would prevent serious damage?
I recently pulled the spark plugs from a sterndrive in-board motor (5.7 Volvo Penta GS) and noticed a couple of the plugs appear to have water on them (with a bit of rust spotting). Is this normal? What are some possible causes of having water in the cylinder? The engine seems to run fine, no stalls or hard starts. Thx
I have a Four Winns IO. The Marina just winterized it and it is stored inside in an unheated pole barn. I wondered which is the best way to store it, with the lower end down to take the weight off the trim, or leave it trimmed up? When I asked the Marina, the answer depended upon who was asked. Elaine
Don: I'm having recent sporadic overheating on both inboards(only one at a time). Props & bottom clean, no smoke. We can go 3 continuous hours without a problem, then another time, only 10 minutes and overheat. Mechanic says everything is clean on the closed cooling side, transmission coolers clean, impellers new, etc. Raw water flow seems to be OK. He suspects partially plugged intake screens. We have not looked at the exhaust elbows. Any ideas? Thanks. Bruce Clark
Hi, I have a 20ft. stingray powerboat that I bought new in June. Recently, I got caught in some sea grass and once I finally freed myself from it, my speedometer has not been working. I have noticed I think that on the way back to the marina, it seemed that there were short periods where my motor and thrust seemed a bit sluggish. I was reading something about something being potentially caught on the pitot??!! I'm pretty unfamiliar with the mechanics of boats other than I turn the key and it is supposed to turn on. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Everytime I have to take my boat back to the dealer it costs me over $100 for the transport since I have no trailor.
Mercury 2004 90HP 4S SW. This engine is designed to be flushed in the same outlet as the water discharge. When pressure is applied to attach a hose to flush, the fitting sometimes detaches and falls into the cowling. Mercury customer service and tech service has no answers other than ridiculous quick fixes such as gluing the fitting to the cowling. I don't want to waste your valuable time with my Mercury horror stories, but this design is faulty and they won't modify it. Please respond if you have any information on this ongoing problem. I purchased this engine new and must be very very carefull each time I flush it. I have had to remove the Cowling and fish out the fitting numerous times. My Mercury dealer had no modification ideas, nor does he want to correct such a poor design. Again, Mercury actually suggests that I, the owner of a brand new engine, have my dealer or myself epoxy the fitting to the cowling. I invited Mercury to send a rep to my dealer so he or she may view this problem, but of course I met with the famous Mercury rude and condesending response. If this fitting falls into my cowling while underway, I will soak the powerhead with salt water.
I purchased a pre-owned 2003 360 SeaRay Sundancer with 8.1 Mercruiser Horizons mid July 2005 (with <100 hours). In the 2+ months I've owned the boat I've put about 30 hours. This weekend, I was crusing along and suddenly lost power in the starboard engine (went from 3450 RPM to 2200 RPM to 1950 RPM back up to 290 RPM etc). It was like the boat was lunging forward and "choking". After requesting a tow back to port (even though the engine never completely lost power) someone suggested I may need to change the fuel filter. I have 3 questions: 1) would a dirty fuel filter cause the problem described above; 2) if the filter is dirty and I change it and everything works well, could I have done any permanent damage; and 3) is it reasonable to have to change a fuel filter after 30 hours (they told new filters were put on when I bought the boat)? Thanks for your help!
My boat has sand in the gas tanks, due to an incident that made the boat flip. We threw away all the gas that was in the tank but we still have some dirt coming out I understand that some tanks have compartments to reduce motion could this be the problem. Could you recommend a procedure to clean tanks and reduce possible damage to motors. Boat: 225 wa SEAPRO Aluminum Tanks
I own an 04 Maxum 2400 SE with a Merc 5.0l and Alpha outdrive. The outdrive trim indicator on the instrument panel will not "zero out" when the outdrive is fully lowered. Can you tell me how to adjust the sensor on the outdrive? Many thanks,
I have been thinking about buying a boat with Bravo 2 or Bravo 3 outdrives. In the past they have had problem with electrolysis with these outdrives in salt water. Do you know if this problem has been fixed?
Could I safely use bottom paint on the prop or is there another solution for this?
On a recent 2-day trip I experienced sporadic vibration seemingly from the outdrive area. I had been running at 3200 RPM. All instrument gauges showed normal.
...protecting the engine's cylinders.
...is there a special zip tie that is petroleum resistant I should use here, or are appropriately sized metal hose clamps OK to use?
My propellers are turning (inward). The vessel is eighteen foot wide.
I have 12 hours on the oil change. Should I change it again before storage?
the previous owner fogged the engine with a 50/50 mixture of mystery oil and 10/40 valvoline and squirted some of the mix into the cyl. is this the same as using a can of fogger?or should I do the same as the previous owner?
Merc says either aluminum or magnesium anodes will do the same for my 1999 bravo 3 outdrive, they no longer use zinc.
I have a '91 Malibu Skier and would like to properly winterize the engine.
My propellers are turning (inward). The vessel is eighteen foot wide.
Is there a special zip tie that is petroleum resistant I should use here, or are appropriately sized metal hose clamps OK to use?
How much difference will it make if I swap my running gear port to starboard?
My throttle movement is very rough (grinding).
I have replaced the impeller at least 8 times because of overheating, the last replacement did not fix the overheating problem.
Is there any reason why the vented loop cannot be located between the raw water intake and the engine instead?
Can I get an owners manual for this boat and where?
I want to use my main motor for trolling. Would this be problem?
Just bought a used 38 footer with twin Volvo Penta Diesels that had lay idle in a marina.......
I recently discovered that the marina I have my boat maintenance done
I own a 1999 20' Four Winns Horizon. It has the 5.7L carbureted 250 hp Volvo-Penta ......
Have a built in diesel tank that appears to have a minor leak.
I have a 2000 chaparral with a 5.7 Merc Alpha One setup.
I have a 1988 suziki 115 outboard. I have a problem with the steering cable.
I have just purchased a 1995 25ft Robalo WA with 2x 225hp Murcury engines.
This will be my second boating season.......
Single cylinder Yanmar Diesel (Sailboat) has been showing blue smoke lately.....
I think I have been able to make a lot of people scratch their...
I have a 1985 176hp Johnson. When I try to start it all I get is a......
How do you tighten a stuffing box?
I have a four cylinder I/O engine and I want to sound insulate my engine compartment with Dynamat insulation used in car stereo installations. Recommendations on how to?
I HAVE A 1990 SEAPRO WITH A MERCRUISER ALPHA ONE ENGINE. THE PROBLEM IS THE POINTS....
I have a 1997 Bayliner with a 3 litre lx mercruiser. My question is about the tacometer....
I have an Evinrude 18 hp motor(fast twin) on my 15 ft Alum.fishing boat. It goes very slow( about 5 mph), what can I do to make go faster? It should be doing about 20 mph i've been told. Please help with any advice,
My fuel gauge is reading low most of the time. How can I check the gauge to see if it is a gauge problem or sending unit problem.
Is it safe to use heat to help release a large prop from a stainless shaft?
If the boat is run regularly, (at least once a week), is it necessary to flush the outboard engine after each use, or at least at the end of the weekend. This is in a boat used in saltwater.
I am experiencing engine overheating.....
I have twin crusader 454 engines, my starboard engine runs at 180 degrees and my port runs at 160 degrees. Is the 180 ok ?
I will be replacing the shift cable. Any advice or items to consider?
My 1976 Bayliner Bounty (28' with dual Volvo gas engines) has a problem taking on fuel....
I want to change or check the water pump on my 1991,60hp. mariner outboard.where do I start?and how do I do this?
How do I check tach and gear reduction, etc. or other sources......
I am about to re-engine my 89, 25' Bayliner Cierra with a gasoline Volvo Penta 5.7litre/outdrive dual props package......
Can I install a fresh water flush system on a V-6 Mercruiser with an Alpha I drive?
I am planning to purchase stainless steel props for a 22 foot.....
I have a Wellcraft Martinique 3200 (1998)with twin 5.7 Mercruisers.
I have a 1976 Glastron(ford v8 engine) with a volvo 280 outdrive.
You speek of having the contaminated fuel "polished".
Is there any problem with using a stainless steel tank for diesel
I have carver 32foot aft cabin mercrusers 5.7 both overheat after...
Can you give me some tips for the proper way to paint my...
I have a 350 crusader engine with a closed cooling system, I have
I am fairly well versed at winterizing my own vessel and have all....
I have the Universal diesel 5411 with no tach. I bought a new....
You speek of having the contaminated fuel "polished". I would like....
I have a michigan alum.prop 3blade 15x15 on an alpha drive that....
I have a '91 Rinker 260 Fiesta Vee cruiser and seem to be having trouble with speed and even being.....
I have a 1976 invader with 302 188hp ford it is very hard to steer my wife won't dr.....
Should I change the engine oil and filter in the fall or the Spring?....
I have a 22' Nordic Crestliner CC, 350 Chevy Shortblock Mercruiser 260 hp.....
I am purchasing a 1989 Cobia 19' Cuddy with a 165 I/O Mercrusier......
My father and I recently found that after the battery died on our V8 powerboat,.......
I have 260 mercruiser on my 2755 Bayliner cierra sunbridge and....
On the transom of my '79 Signa 18' Fiberglass boat, the engine.......
Recently put one new battery in boat(two 12 volt battery system)for diesel powered sailboat.......