Question
| Seaworthy, |  |
| If I leave my boat in the water all year around, How often do I need to paint the bottom? | |
| Ray | |
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Answer
| Ray, | |
| A lot depends on the area in which you keep your boat; warm Florida waters are harder on bottom paint than cool Puget Sound water (warm water makes the critter and grass grow better). With luck- and a quality paint - you may get by for two years, but you may need to hire a diver to clean the bottom after a year. | |
| Seaworthy | |
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Question
| Seaworthy:, | |
I live on SoCal where we presumably have gas + ethanol combination. I have a Yamaha 250 outboard 2 cycle engine. I understand that this gas should be used within 2 months before damage could result to the engines. I also understand that currently there is no additive that could prevent separation of ethanol and gas. Furthermore, I understand that once separation occurs, the engine will burn the ethanol, first which burns too hot and destroys engine components.
Formerely we were told to keep the gas tanks filled to avoid water condensation and to add a fuel stabilizer.
Now I am told there is no approved stabilizer and to keep the tanks relatively empty and put gas in the tank when I plan to use it. If I keep the tanks relatively low, will I not accmulate water in the gas?
I'm confused. What is the recommendation for this new gas-ethanol mixture?
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| Charles | |
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Answer
| Charles, | |
You seemed to have received a lot of bad information. First, ethanol has the same shelf life as regular gasoline...about one year. You should still use an anti-oxidant (stabilizer) as you would with any gasoline. Phase separation is unlikely to occur if you keep your tank topped off to limit condensation. You should also use your boat periodically over the summer so that you can add fresh gasoline from time to time.
You're correct that there are no products that will restore phase separated gasoline. However, if phase separation does occur, your engine won't run on the water-soaked ethanol mixture. The octane on the other mixture--gasoline--will have been lowered and the engine will be very erratic or not run at all. You would have to get rid of the gasoline.
As I said, phase separation is highly unlikely if you keep your tank topped off (95% full to allow for expansion) and use the boat in the summer. They've had E-10 in the Chicago area for over a decade and everyone I spoke with there said it's no big deal. They've learned to top off their tanks.
Go to BoatUS.com/Seaworthy to read more about ethanol.
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| Seaworthy: | |
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Question
| Seaworthy:, | |
How old were the boots in the 11 boats that sunk due to ruptured boots? (ref. "Why Boats Sink At The Dock", BoatU.S. Magazine, January 2009).
It would be useful to know if they were much older than what's running in my boat. On the other hand, if mine is about as old or older, then that would tend to suggest that mine is on borrowed time. I know that there are a lot of variables affecting boot life, but any data is better than none. Thanks | |
| Armand | |
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Answer
| Armand, | |
As you say, there are a lot of variables. While the claim files weren't always clear on the age of failed boots, several years ago we talked to mechanics, manufacturers and surveyors and the consensus was that a boot is living on borrowed time if it is over five years old. The sun and salt (Florida) are tougher on boots than freshwater and a short season (Great Lakes).
You should check boots periodically for excessive checking, cracks and holes (look especially in the folds). A boot that is getting brittle should be replaced regardless of its age. | |
| Seaworthy: | |
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Question
| Seaworthy:, | |
| I had a local yard replace my shaft stuffing boxes and shaft couplings. My engines are 485 HP ea. The keys they inserted in the coupling do not fill the length of the groove and can be slid fore and aft but not out. In other words the keys are loose. Is this a safety problem. Is this acceptable worksmanship? | |
| Robert | |
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Answer
| Robert, | |
Yes, a loose key is a problem. The key should have a slight interference fit, which means it should have to be lightly tapped into place, no gaps on the sides. This will keep the key in place and stop any movement of the coupling on the shaft during high torque loads. As far as length, it should end flush at the forward end of the coupling
and slightly protrude at the aft end of the coupling. The taper in the
coupling and on the shaft should be a minimum 80% contact and give a good fit. This is the primary area of contact and locking power. If there is no taper, then the key and the coupling should both be a slight interference fit and the key fit becomes even more important as the key becomes the primary method of keeping the coupling from moving on the shaft. If the coupling starts moving on the shaft because it is loose, it will gall the contact surfaces and it will do quite a bit of damage. This could also result in a sheared key. When this happens the engine will rev high just like it was in neutral and could lead to damage. | |
| Seaworthy: | |
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Question
| Seaworthy:, | |
Hurricane Prep:
It has been my observation the Docks kill boats, not wind and waves. So anchoring/mooring seems to be worthy of investigating for both home and cruising needs
Cruising:
Oversized anchors can be stored for cursing, and pre-assemble rodes, but preparing these needs to have the proper arraignment in mind. Could you research a definitive anchoring scheme and requirements for hurricanes.
Home Port:
Boat US site on Helix mooring was interesting but provided little info on mfg. or installers. This would be helpful for home port planning. | |
| Peter | |
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Answer
| Peter, | |
Two companies that sell and install helix anchors:
American Underwater Contractors, 561-575-5538
Helix Mooring Systems, 800-866-4475 | |
| Seaworthy: | |
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