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BoatUS ANGLER Magazine
Shore power question. We have a 1989 42' Carver aft cabin. For shore power it uses (2) 50 amp 125 volt cords. It is time to replace a cord and I am wondering if I can re-fit the boat to operate on (1) 50 amp 250 volt cord. This would give me one cord to deal with when traveling and would eliminate the splitter I need at all marinas that provide 50 amp 250 volt service. There are 2 inlets at the stern of the boat, one for air conditioning and one for house power. With all 3 air conditioners on full power the draw can be as high as 40 amps. With full house power the house cord will draw as high as 25 amps. Would there be a problem if I changed the power inlets on the boat to one 50 amp 250 volt inlet and used one 50 amp 250 volt cord? Thank you, Dave Torelli West Grove, PA
My Boat took on water this last Fall through one or both outdrive's. The water that got in was about 12-16" deep in the Cabin. The Cabin is mostly Plywood, Floor's and Cabinettes. The Water was in the Boat for about twenty four hours. I pumped it out. The water steamed cleaned out about five days later. I would like to know the effect's of this water on the Plywood and cabinettes LATER since there is no physical looking damage at this point.
How can I clean and/or treat the black (rubber?) primer squeeze bulb in line from my Mercury outboard gas tank to prevent "BLACK" residue (grime) from getting on my hands? I purchased a new, (unused) 9.9 Mercury outboard for my 25 O'Day in 2010. It was said to have been manufactured in 2007 but labels indicate 2006. Supposedly it had not been in service until 2010 when I first used it. The tank with gas line has always been stored undercover in the cockpit storage locker & not exposed to weather when not in use. Also stored inside during offseason. I boat inland = state of Indiana > no salt air. Is there a chance that gas with unintended possible ethanol may be partly to blame ? Will this pressure squeeze bulb deteriorate unsuspectingly and just need replacement ? If so how do I check for this if the rubber is still soft and pliable ? Etc., etc. ??? Thank you, Clyde Poppe
I have a Datamarine S-200DL which, though an old unit, until recently performed consistently well. Suddenly, it has become unreliable. Depth readings are sometimes accurate but more often display numbers less than 20¿ in places that are much deeper and the numbers fluctuate constantly. When I turn off the sounder, wait, and then turn it on again it displays accurate readings for a few minutes and then starts displaying seemingly random numbers again. The hull bottom (sailboat) was thoroughly cleaned and inspected just a couple of months ago. Adjusting the shallow gain control hasn¿t helped. What is the most likely cause of the problem?
What could cause a boat to run, but with no RPMs (besides water in the gas tank)? Could ethanol break down the black rubber fuel line and clog the injectors?
My sink faucet leaks where it swivels. It's on a 2005 Beneteau 323. Any hints on repairing this?
While winterizing my Mercury 115 HP, 4 stroke, EFI engine water was noted in my oil. Engine powers my 18 ft Spectrum Sport Boat. Boat was not used much in the past two years. What would cause the problem?
I have a 1987 Universal M-18 engine inmy sailboat. The exhaust elbow has failed (leaking water and soot) and needs to be replaced. I have been soaking the threads connecting the elbow to the exhaust flange with PB Blaster. Am I on the correct path to try and unscrew the elbow from the flange or do I need to remove the flange from the engine exhaust first? I believe that the elbow is original, so it is pretty well seated. Is there anything else I should be doing to get the bad elbow removed? Any other hints/ideas would be appreciated. Regards, Ted Sliwinski
I have a Seaward 25 sailboat with a Westerbeke 20Btwo auxiliary diesel engine. The freshwater reservoir level goes down after running the engine for a long period of time. The engine bilge has a small amount of leaked antifreeze, not enough to equal the amount of antifreeze missing in the reservoir. Could the heat exchanger have an internal leak and the coolant is going out the exhaust?
Hi, I have a 1989 Yamaha 70 hp outboard. I'm looking to replace my power trim and tilt assembly. My current model is 6h1-10 would a 6h1-13 fit and work the same? My current model is a three wire.
I have a Tayana 48 with a Yanmar 4JH2 DTE 75hp. There is a wire that leads from the starting relay to the starter solenoid. The prior owner for some reason put an in line fuse to this wire. Every so many starts, it blows the fuse 8a or 10a slow blow fuse. When it blows I put a new fuse in and we are off to the races...until the next time. As best I read the wiring diagram, there is not supposed to be an in line fuse on this wire. I'm not exactly sure what this relay does (I believe it to be the 6M extension), but it apparently draws significant voltage at start. One very experienced Yanmar tech told me he had never seen a fuse in this position before. Any ideas? Thanking you in advance David Rock S/V NOMAD
Heat Exchanger Antifreeze level on a 38ft carver, Mercrusier Engines Should I be able to see and/or feel the anti-freeze level in my heat exchangers when the boat is not running - I have overflow canasters and they show over half full when the boat is not running - When I do start the engines the anti freeze does flow from the canister into the heat exchanger Thanks, email@example.com
My 35' sailboat has a 75 HP Ford diesel engine. When seas become rough and the fuel tank is approximately half full, the engine dies. I have to bleed the air from the fuel system and restart. Depending on how rough it is, the engine may only run a minute or two before dying again. This repeats until seas calm. I have had the fuel polished and added fuel/water separator and dual filter system to no avail. What is the problem and what is the fix? Thanks, Harlen Sperry
While motor-sailing this past July on N.C.'s Alligator River we encountered a large thunderstorm with high winds, lightening, and 'white-out' conditions. Since the storm our VHF radio is barely receiving any transmissions, even with reducing the squelch control. Our transmissions seem to be OK. We have a fairly new ICOM M-422 radio with wired remote mic at he helm. The problem is the same when using the base or remote, and the same even when the remote is disconnected. I am considering replacing the masthead mounted antenna, thinking it is the problem. Any suggestions? Many thanks. Lee Gardner, Oriental, NC
after returning from fishing three weeks ago out drive was left in down poistion as normal..when going out again week later out drive would not raise preceded to jump the relay no response position indicator shows up when it is down do not know what to do next.
I am moving to Florida with my 2011 24' Sea Ray. It has a 300hp IO Mercruiser. I am concerned about proper care in salt and brackish water! I'd like to make both the engine and boat last a long time. Any tips would be helpful.
I am in need of a wiring diagram to install a Rule auto bilge pump/float ant remote switch. Thanks, Allen
My anchor light needed replaced. The existing one was 2 wire and the replacement is 3 wire. I connected two of the wires and just insulated and taped the 3rd wire. The new anchor light illuminates but is pretty dim and not as bright as it should be. Can you advise how I should wire the correctly?
I have looked at a 1998 Crownline 268 cr and found the following issue: It appears either water intrusion has occurred below the port side port lights or possibly an unaddressed condensation problem. I found black mold on two of the seat cushions in the general area. I pulled away some of the side panel covering and the foam underneath is moldy as well as damp and crumbling. This seems like a big problem to me, that having mold in the sleeping area. I would expect that the dampness problem could have been prevented with proper de-humidification (unless it is a leak). I'm not sure how extensive the job would be to remove the mold that has formed. My inclination is to walk away from this boat and continue looking. Thank you for your opinion.
I have a1977 Century inboard/outboard mercruiser.Battery dies frequently.Purchased new battery.Same problem.Replaced solenoid on starter.Seemed to have solved problem.Same problem reoccurred.Have found Ignition fuse blown.Replaced fuse.Same problem.Had alternator tested.Altenator is good help please.
I just purchased a 2006 hydra sports 2900 vx express cabin.it has a 5ecd kohler generator in it with 32 hours on it. my problem is when I purchased the boat the generator battery was dead,as were the other 4 batteries also.600.00 dollars later I installed 5 new batteries.the generator is supposed to have its own charging system for the battery. when I start the generator I only get 12.8 volts on the battery.i noticed that the regulator fuse holder was melted and also the voltage regulator plug was melted. while running you could burn your hand on the wiring by the plug.proceded to change the fuse holder and new fuse from kohler as well as a new regulator and plug .still no charging of battery.i have went thru all the wiring inside the controller panel and went as far as cleaning and retightening all the ground wires.i now get a code of scfo which indicates a software or communication problem within the adc2100 controller. my question is could this make the battery charging system not work as the new voltage regulator is also getting hot.before I replace the expensive controller I just want to make sure.any feedback would be greatly appreciated. thank you again.
so filled up my 35 gas tank drove to loading dock , went to start and engine wouldnt start,i new i wasnt getting gas to carburator , sprayed a lot of quick start and finall started running. so it happened again i took off fuel line at the carburator to see if fuel was pumping out,i turned key to on and fuel pump did not pump, but when i cranked engine fuel came out, I get now , but i belive there was some kind of air or vapor lock. from what i read the power comes from the starter solinoid to start fuel pump, then swithes over to power from oil pressure switch makes sense, no oil pressure no fuel! ok , but why air or vapor lock? maybe anti sipon valve? please help
My 1985 90 hp just spent 5 days underwater fresh water, I have drained all the water out of everything including the starter. I dried all of the electrical connections drained gas lines and carbs, The motor ran for about 10 seconds and quit. Is there something I missed, or is there something in the electrical/ignition I'm going to have to replace because it was submerged. Thanks Ray
I have a 1986 Rinker 4cyl.omc. Speedometer and Tachometer stopped working. The gauges light up, owners manual states gray wire for tach. Checked with test light, have power, replaced coil, still not working. Can you help? I am also hearing a noise where engine and outdrive meet. Sounds similar to a loose heat shied on a automobile exhaust. Do you have any idea? Thanks Big Ang.
Where do I search for cushion cover replacement tips and tutorials?
My marine head just started acting up. When I move the valve lever to dry bowl and pump, fresh lake water still keeps coming in. The waste goes down but clear lake water still keeps coming in. The valve lever itself feels too loose and no longer "clicks". Also a small amount of water is leaking around the piston rod when you pump. I think it needs a new seal. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
last year I had a new mercruiser 325 HP with new transom assy. with transom repair with new gimbal, but with used brovo 2 or 3 outdrive, and was installed by marine repair in tacoma wa. now when I try to speed up over 10 miles an hour to attemp to plain, motor just revs, already replaced the Hub in propeller, my mechanic tells me it probably is cluch bearing on outdrive is bad, or control box, or maybe lower shift cable needs to be adjusted or it may be broken, can you help with direction of repair
Kohlar 800 generator overheating. Have replaced the empeller checked the belt and ,replaced the thermostate and back flushed the heat exchanger and still over heating what have I missed?
I need to replace the waste deck fills. Any advice on working with the sanitation hose to get the hose off and on the deck fills? I have used hot water to "soften" the hose to install it on the hose connections, but can't use that technique for this job. Thank you.
I have a 17' Mako with four rod holders which do not drain. I cannot drill holes in the bottom because the water would only drain into foam. Is it necessary to buy new covers for the rod holders to keep the water out or is sitting water in the rod holders ok?
As an owner of a Regal boat powered by Volvo IPS I am asking if Volvo was responsible for water intrusion into the system by using brass seals under the water line in their pods and should have issued a recall to remove the brass seals and replaced with stainless steel? The boat is past it's warranty, however, after having read articles on the use of brass/bronze below the waterline it seems that their engineering department made a huge error.
I have a 1994 Mercury Mariner 115hp 2 stroke. The issue is starting but runs rough and need to keep choking to keep motor running or it stalls in drive with water muffs on. List of work I did within in 6 months. I only put non ethanol fuel in. 1)Lower unit redone 2) new stator 3) new trigger 4)replaced coil and wires 5) new plugs and wires 6)new starter 7) new battery and negative and positive run cable runs 8) new fuel separator 9) new prime bulb and hose 10)timing adjusted 11)new voltage regulator 12)new fuel filter Ran rough after all with the wok so I thought missed something. Took to a large professional marine repair shop. Mechanics looks over and made adjustments but said all was good but running like a scaled dog and need to redo carburetors and would cost $600 additional to do. I took home to do carbs have done many of times for outboards and cars. Took carbs apart used carb cleaner rinsed and cleaned. Meticulously put back together. Put back on and no go same. Starts rough and still runs like a scaled dog. I runs with a shake and need to choke to keep running. What am I missing? I think it is a fuel issues somewhere. I will admit I did not change fuel lines from tank to engine or fuel pump.
my boat batteries slowly loose charge while running. The alternators are new but not providing enough charge to keep the batteries fully charged, so if I stop and anchor I can't restart the engines. Will battery chargers only work if the generator is working?
Hello Tom, A oil cooler hose burst on my starboard engine.I always check my gauges so engine was shut down with no damage.I replaced both in / out hoses on that engine. My question is should I replace the hoses on the other port engine including the transmission hoses, note the port engine is a remote oil set-up. Also is there a way to check those hoses if good or bad.Boat info is below. Uniflite 1974 36' Crusader inboard gas Engine 350hp hours-1200 Thanks Steve
I need a plumbing diagram of a 23 foot polar boat live well and fish hold system, and how it connects to the masarator pump. the boat was made by godfreay marine and no longer in business can you hell me.
1998 Mercruiser 7.4l Bravo I/O runs fine up to 4000 rpm when it seems to be starving for something and rpm tails off down to 3000rpm or less. Fuel filter, fuel/raw water pump, distributor cap and rotor, and drive belts all replaced and tight. 4 barrel carb not new but clean with clean flame arrestor, engine temp, oil pressure, and voltage all remain fine at all times. fuel hoses and vent seem clear and not collapsed.what to do next??
My boat flooded from heavy rain. About 1 ft of water in boat. Have I/O engine What do I need to do
Hello. We have 1999 Monterey boat with Volvo Penta twin engine. We are the second owner of the boat. Recently, starboard engine's rpm was very low, engine was shaking, and it stalled. And after no crank, a starter was replaced. The engine starts back again, but rpm was still low, and after one try of starting engine, it died. And try to start engine again. There was a huge sound of like metal hitting. A mechanic said the engine needs to overhaul, and it will cost us about $7,000 include taking the engine out and back in after overhauling (takes at least 3-4 weeks). The port side of engine runs no problem. Is it normal to wear engine after so many years? The cost of overhauling $7,000 is average? I am just overwhelming. Please give us your advise. Thank you for your time. Yuko Y.
I want to install a new toilet in the head, and use raw water to flush. The only seacock on the boat is the engine cooling raw water intake. Is there a way that I can draw my raw water for the toilet from this inlet, and avoid drilling another hole in the boat? Thanks, Don Wolter
I removed a window from my trawler. The frame is made of ABS plastic, I believe. Want is the best sealant to use for re-installation of the window?
I have a 1995 SeaRay Express Cruiser. When I turn the breaker on to power my water pump it will turn on and when I turn on the water in my sink it will continue running even after I turn off the water in the sink. It will continue to run. It stays on all the time until I manually turn off the breaker. I have checked for leaks and have not found any water dripping. Help. Thanks.
I have a 1987 Silverton aft cabin 40 ft. I am changing the fresh water pump and need to know if the water tank will overflow when I disconnect the pump. Or how do i turn off the water from reaching the pump. ay help will be appreciated. Thank you. Alicia
Dear Madam or Sir: I have a 1990 Key West CC, with a 60hp O/B, that's in very good condition. I recently installed a motor rack on the port-side of the stern transom for an electric trolling motor. Upon drilling the four holes to bolt the rack through the transom, I saw a small amount of a liquid ooze out of two of the lower holes. The liquid appeared to be a mix of water and saw dust. The holes were drilled through the transom, about 1 1/2 feet above the bottom of the hull. How did this liquid/water get to that height, inside of the transom ? Could this mean that the wood inside the transom is rotted and the transom is weak ? I was considering a new O/B motor for this boat. But now, I'm reluctant to put a new motor on a 24 year-old boat that may not be sea worthy. I would appreciate your thoughts and advice. Thanks very much Bob Robel
I have a 2004 Hydra Sports 202 DC, the foam gasket between the windshield and the top deck is breaking down and leaving black residue when touched, after rain or washed. Short of removing the windshield and replacing the gasket is there a way to seal the gasket? I've thought of caulking, but that would be difficult and unless done by a professional caulker, not come out looking very good. Thanks for you input. Eric
I have replaced the alternator, the regulator and the starter battery on my trawler, but I still witness an irritating low voltage alarm in the pilot house instrument( after an hour of running). This alarm is dedicated to the starter battery which is new. When checking the voltage while the alarm is on, the voltmeter says the battery is 12.9 but the voltage instrument shows a drop to 11 from 13. What could I check next? Do these alarms go bad? Is there usually a fuse behind the instrument panel?
In the April 2014 BoatUS magazine, there is a comment about bottom painting, "once bottom paint is applied - the die is cast" I have a 98 Four Winns that had bottom paint on it when we bought it from the first owner. As we now trailer the boat, I decided to remove the bottom paint and took on the task of sanding it off. After reading this article, I'm now wondering if there is some reason I shouldn't have removed the bottom paint, because of the 'die is cast' comment -- perhaps I'm taking the article a bit too literally?
Always read the mag and now it is my turn. I am replacing my transom mounted transducer. The one currently on the boat goes thru the transom BELOW the waterline. I don't want to put the new one thru the same hole. What is the best way to plug the hole after I have removed the old cable? The hull is fiberglass. Thanks in advance for your help. Chuck.
I have a Erickson crusing 36 hull #2 and I need to replace the hose between the stuffing box and the shaft where it comes thru the boat. What type of hose do I use? its about 5 to 6 in long and maybe 1 to 1 1/2 in id. Thank You Ray Falco firstname.lastname@example.org
Can`t get my Garmin GPS 76 to interface with my Uniden um380? It`s hooked up right and interfaced tab to nmea.
I have a MotorGuide Pro Series 70 trolling motor s/n 9B387768. When I turn it on, it will only go in high speed. When I adjust the switch to go slower, it still is high. Could it be the switch ? Thanks Nick
I have 2" seawater hoses on my main engines. They are 10 years old and need to be replaced. What is the best way to remove the old hoses. Is there a special tool that helps? I tried heating them and they still won't slide off. Any tips would be appreciated.
last Thursday I received the second worst call a boat owner could get , "your boat is sinking " , luckily there was only about a foot of water in the bow when they caught it and stuck a pump in it . So far I have repaired the leak and replaced the bow bilge pump that failed and investigated the damage . at this time all I have found wrong is the water got into the converter / charger and it no longer works . The question I have is 1 . can I replace it with just a new marine charger ? 2 . If not , can I use a converter / charger for an R.V. ? the boat is a 1983 Chris craft corinthian with volvo marine diesels and an onan diesel generator . since the converter went bad none of the 12 volt lighting works . Thank you in advance for any help Gary McKelvey
I am planning on redoing the plumbing on my Mariner 28 sailboat, which is used for weekend coastal cruising. I would like to install a fresh water electric head and eliminate the sea cock from the system, since I am never far enough off shore to use it. The waste system will be a single line from head to tank, and a single line from tank to deck pump out. Since the system will not be open to the sea, is use of rigid PVC pipe acceptable? The only openings will be the deck fill/pump outs and vents, but the boat will down flood through the companion way long before the deck fills are under water. Does Schedule 40 or schedule 80 make a difference? Does this run afoul of any ABYC or insurance codes? The fresh water and holding tanks are 15 gals. each, so a "system dump" would be messy but about equal to the weight of another passenger. Elimination of the 2 Y valves and hoses will free up space in the hanging locker, which is directly behind the head, and is mostly filled with smelly hoses, vented loops and y valves. Thanks, Lou Illiano 5308054 Fair Haven, NJ
Hi Mike Tierney again. I don't know how to link this to my earlier question but it's about the water pressure on my 04' catalina and the pump information is as follows: Diaphram Pump-SHUR-FLO. mODEL #2088-23-244. OPEN FLOW 3.5 gpm. amps7.5 volts 12. pressure 45PSI. last number on bottom 2-04. I had my brother-in-law go on the boat. I have not left NJ. it's cold and has snowed, is snowing or will snow soon!
Hi, this is mike tierney again. Two things, first I flew back to New Jersey and the left the boat in Florida so it will take a few months to get the pump number. The second thing is I couldn't find a way to answer my first e-mail and thank you for all your help. Mike
I have a 2004 catalina320. I'm having a problem with my water pressure. After turning on the "water pressure" and opening a faucet I get a rush of water then it drops off to a dribble. Also during the night when it's quite I hear the water pressure drop the re charge. This happens in the galley sink, the head sink and the shower on the swim platform. In other words where ever water comes out. I would appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks, Mike tierney
We just bought a 1997 ucruisers 3575 with 7.4mercruisers (inboards). Should I be worried about water ingestion on this model? Any preventative measures? Thanks! Ryan Bayer
Last fall when I removed the drain plug at the transom the whole unit came out. The screws deteriorated away, the stubs look like stainless. The body of the drain is bronze. What kind of screws should I use to reinstall? The boat is in saltwater all summer
what can i use to remove shell fouling from my mercruiser lower units raw water intake that wont damage aluminium or paint?
Due to sandy i had a reman plus series 350 alpha engine new cables and shifter installed on my boat.It is very to shift and stalls going from forward to reverse or rev to for.The mechanic has done all he can, this also unsafe when docking or fueling up
I have a 1984 Searay 225 cudy cabin. On the inside,the cabin doors are made of a veneer plywood and trimmed in teak. I'm looking for a 4x8 sheet of plywood like that. Thanks Ed
Hello Gabe, I am having some troubles getting my boat to plane. I just installed an extended swim platform to my 2000 Crownline 268CR rigged with twin Volvo Penta 4.3GL. Both engines have 14-3/4 X 19 Stainless Steel triple blade props. I cruise in the caribbean sea waters were tides are sometimes a little rough. The boat is not planing at all and I am forced to cruise at very slow speed. Are the propellers the problem here, are they good for this new rig or do I have to replace them, and if that is the case, what you recommend the props should be? I have installed a pair of Nauticus Smart Tabs and both outdrives have hydrofoils, I don't know what else I can do to solve this problem. Thanks.
In the latest issue, Tom's Secret Weapons,screw/bolt holders are shown. Where can you get them. Have looked in dozens of stores. Allan Bernard
Saw your June article on tools. I need a "bilge wrench." Can't find it on the internet. Please give me a supplier, or do I have to have one built?Thanks, Robert Eichelburg
I'm sorry to report I've only just noticed your answer to the query "How High The Poop" in the Oct/Nov 2012 issue of BoatUS Magazine... All good, of course, but also malfuntioning tank level gauges have been a topic of discussion within the Silverton Owners Club (silvertonclub.com) and relatively easy fixes have been posted in the members' forum. One of those simply involves swapping out a manufacturer's earlier plastic sensor for their newer stainless steel version. Regards, -Chris Mangin (Silverton 42C owner)
The hull of my boat has been stained by fuel oil after the hurricane. I have used polish rubbing compound, & wax what's next?
what is best adhesive/sealant to attach rubber gasket to bowmar metal (aluminum) deck hatch?
I have a Taylor Made deck hatch. The Glass is shattered and I'd like to replace it with Plexiglass. Is there a way to remove the top ONLY at the Hinge, so I can take it to a shop? Or do I have to remove the edge sealant and make a template?
I usually replace my exhaust manifolds and risers on my 26' Bayliner cruiser's V-8 every 5 years, but some of my old seasoned boating buddies say that this is a waste of money. They say that these manifolds and risers are good for at least one acid boil-out to remove clogs, scale and other crud from the water passages. They say they should be as good as new after the boil-out and good for another 5 years. The walls are thick enough to stand a boil-out and the amount of metal etched away is minimal and safe. Is that true or should I worry about the acid boil to burn the water jackets dangerously thin with the possibility of developing a water leak into my exhaust? Rick Wetzler, Mobile, AL
Can you please tell me if a fiberglass hull can be repaired to its original or better state if it has been severely damaged, i.e., a hole cut into the hull? Is a thicker hull better than a thinner hull? And last but not least, once the hole in the hull is repaired, is it disconcerting that a hollow sound exists after tapping with a screwdriver. Thank you, Frank
i have my boat in storage and will remain for the next 2years the outboard was winterized 3years ago how long can it stay with out further service? what service? thanks Ian
Thank you Tom & Mel for answering questions on fuel lines and batteries. I apologize if this question was previously submitted. I recently noticed that the propeller retainer and general area of the thru prop exhaust has a very black substance similar to "carbon Black". The performance of the 2004 225HP 4 stroke Yamaha seems to be the same as previous years but without the black deposit. Normally an engine emitting a black discharge would be considered running rich. Do you think that is the case or is something else going on?
I have a 1988/41ft Searay Sedan Bridge boat. I am having a problem with heavy leaking of water in the aft head whitch is on the port side. It apears to be comming from rain. I have caulked varius areas on the port side in that area,to no aval. Could it be the windows /I belive this is problem with this boat How can I fix this problem ???? Alex Reilley
HI TOM & MEL. I HAVE A JABSCO HEAD WITH A JABSCO ELECTRIC CONVERSION KIT INSTALLED WHICH WAS FACTORY INSTALLD ON MY 29 FT TIARA OPEN CLASSIC. MY PROBLEM IS THAT THERE IS A BACK FLOW INTO THE TOILET WHEN UNDER WAY AND ALSO WHEN DOCKED WHEN THE HOLDING TANK IS 3/4 FULL. THE YARD MECHANIC AND I FEEL THAT THERE SHOULD BE A BACK FLOW PREVENTER IN THE SYSTEM BUT THERE DOES NOT SEEM TO BE ONE. CAN YOU PLEASE HELP US OR REFER ME TO SOMEONE WHO CAN HELP?
My Sea Pro 238WA with the Yamaha 225HP outboard starts and runs well to our destination. However, if we stop the engine and anchor or drift for a time, 30+ minutes, the engine will start and run for a short time and then will quit, until we pump the bulb. It is my analysis that the bulb, setting in the sun over heats the fuel, causing it to vaporize, and therefore starves the engine after it runs the fuel out of the internal fuel filter bowl. Is this a reasonable analysis. I am now blankeying the external fuel lines with a wet towel. Do you agree with this or is there some other explanation??
Still on Watermakers: I can easily monitor two readings, (1) TDS of the product and (2) flow rate of the product. If chlorine is introduced in the flush process, how will chlorine this effect these readings? If I an in "oily" water, how will the oil in the membrane effect the dreadings? Thanks, David
I have had a problem with my Village Marine Tech watermakers and I hope that you may give me some guidance. In March of 2011, VMT replace the membranes in my three 21" pressure vessels. Initially, all went well with the TDS of the product at under 200; then this year, 2012, in April TDS of the product was 400 to 500 TDS. The new Village Marine brand 19" membranes were replacements of the Filmtech 2521 membranes that I had used for nearly 10 years. Somehow my pressure vessels "shrunk" from 21" to 19". Village Marine only warrants a membrane for one year and they cannot explain how the pressure vessels "shrunk" or why we got only one season out of the new VMT 19" membranes. The VMT 19" membranes are almost double the cost of the Filmtech 2521 membranes from Boundless Outfitters and other suppliers. Any insight on this will be appreciated. Receipts from VMT are in hand and are available.... from original purchase to replacement purchase. Thank you, David Maner email: email@example.com
This is a follow up on the question that I asked about two stuffing boxes on my 43 foot wood ,one of a kind,boat. They are both definitly stuffing boxes, It doesn't make any sense to me either. The stuffing box located at the propeler end is the real issue. The weight of the 40 inch propeler wears the stuffing at the bottom and the shaft is then not centered. I have repacked both stuffing boxes and the only problem is with the one at the propeler it just dosen't hold up.Any ideas would be appreciated Tom H
The shower well on my 42 Sabre does not drain. The pump and float switch work fine.I could not open it with a plumber;s snake,plunger, or flushing with a hose. What would you recommend next? Muriatic acid? safe for hoses? Howard.
I have 43 foot wood trawler that has a stuffing box at both ends of the propeller shaft. The stuffing box where it exits the keel, near the propeller wears out quickley! I am turning a 40 inch wheel and want to know if I should be using a special packing or what? The boat is over 40 years old, one of a kind, so this issue must have been addressed susessfully in the past. How common is this situation . I have never seen it befor.Tom H.
I have a 1996 Silverton 37 ft. Motor Yacht with twin 454 Crusader engines. Many times when I am cruising for over an hour, the starboard engine begins to hesitate and lose power, and the rpm will go down and up, sometimes even stalls. If I wait a minute and go into neutral or restart, the engine will run fine for a period of time, but then starts to hesitate again. This has been going on for years. I use the same gas for both engines and have checked all the fuel filters. Thanks, Marvin.
I noted that you used Komatex in the cabin. Would this be a good choice for placing on the inner hull to insulate it in the cabnets under the setee.I could paint it to make it look brighter in those cabnets but that would not help for insullation and condensation.What other product would you suggest. Thanks Jon A Reiswig Sr.SV Shannon-Taj (Fuji 35)
I have a 30" hunter sailboat and I cranked the Yanmar diesel last week to let run at the dock as I try to do every week or so if not leaving the dock. After last week, I have noticed a small drip coming from around the shaft just behind the engine block. Hoe serious is this leak and do you think it may be something that could be fixed while boat is in the water? Thanks for any suggestions. Daniel
I own a 25 Searay. V8 350 CI Engine has about 40 hours. My boat has been sitting next to my home with a hundred gallons of gas for three years. What additive do I need to add to the fuel to bring it up to par. Thanks, Mike Berry, Huntington Beach, CA
We loose the prime on our new fresh water pump. Already replaced shut off valves. we suspect a tiny leak that lets air in. We can not find any place where water leaks out. do you have any suggestions on hoe to test connections and lines for minor (air) leaks? Once I get it reprimed system runs well. Takes about 45 min to loose its prime again. thank you for your help. Penny Miller
I had a 2002 Merc 150 outboard that kept slipping out of gear. Several supposed repairs later from a Merc certified dealer, I decided to buy another merc this time a 2005 200 HP...the motor was used but the dealer said it was in perfect shape... took it out once, no problems ran it up while in storage 3 times with the appropriate water feeding the motor and on the third runup it would not go into gear. Just like the last merc. Is Mercury having problems with their outboards or is the Dealer ripping me off.
I have a 1987 Cobalt223 boat. The gelcoat at this age of the boat is showing it's age a great deal. I compound and wax it at the beginning of the season but it only seems to last a few weeks before it begins to fade again. Can you recommend a good compound and wax and any other thing to help we with this problem. I can't afford a new boat or to have this one repainted. Thanks. Paul
My mast wiring 4 pin deck plug has a big problem with corrosion every year. I have to disassemble every component with an eyeglass screwdriver and clean them with WD-40 and reassemble after stripping back the wires from the deck and the mast. The deck wires have turned black. The mast wires I already replaced once. Catalina did not use marine wire through the deck and I cannot fish new wire through. Q: What is the best way to keep this from continuing? Would an anoide in the wiring system somewhere help? Many thanks, Ben Raye sloop Chick-a-pea, Crystal River - FL C250wk #364
We have a cabin cruiser with twin 260 merc cruisers. Recently, we experienced a problem with our port drive, where the upper unit leaked oil (metal on metal¿no lubrication) and subsequently, we had to replace our entire drive system. Our marina service center indicated we must have hit something to blow a seal and lose oil. We do not believe we had a collision with any object that caused this. The week before this occurred, we had the idle air control on one motor replaced. Might any of the work that was done to replace th IAC have any effect on the oil leak issue? What else might have caused this to happen?
I'm NOT from the government but I'm here to help! Some time ago, you responded to the query below: Question: Tom & Mel Neale, I've a 1978 Bombay Clipper (31') that has an alcohol stove of undetermined origin. I poured in some alcohol, pumped it up, turned it on as per the instructions and nothing happened. There was supposed to be some alcohol appear in the "cup" bud i didn't see any. I suspect it hasn't been used in years, certainly not in the 5 years i've had the boat. Is there something i can do to re-build it and make it usable? I want to do some serious Great Lakes Cruising...Thanks in advance! David ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Answer: David, It's been years since we've used an alcohol stove. When we had one (back in the early 70s) we had frequent flare ups when trying to light it. If you've got an old stove and don't know the manufacturer to whom to turn for rebuild kits and/or instructions, I'd suggest you get a new stove and not try to use the one which isn't working properly. This is serious a safety issue. I couldn't suggest any rebuild steps when I don't know what kind of stove it is and don't have it in front of me. Tom & Mel Neale ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Here's my help: I've a Bombay Clipper, 31', 1978 with probably the same stove. I too was unable to get it to work and looked into getting parts to rebuild it. I was fortunate to find a model number: Kenyon model 406, a phone number: 860 664-4906, and an email: firstname.lastname@example.org (Frank Palmeri). I ordered the kit to rejuvenate the unit but found it was beyond my capability to repair. Frank was supportive and helful to me. He didn't bat an eye when i asked to send it back for credit. The 2 kits cost over $100 as i recall and if I would've sent it to them for refurbishment, it'd have cost $225 + shipping. Thought you'd like to know for future use... Best regards and following seas, Dave Bartilson
Greetings BoatUS! I was recently informed that the reason one of the wood pilings adjacent to my boat in our marina in Naples has turned "powdery" and has deteorated is that some of the boats have tied their power cords too long and they drop into the water. The resulting electrolysis through the cord causes the nearby pilings to prematurely deteriorate. I have never heard of this problem before. Is it possible? Does it happen? There are countless marinas and pilings that this phenomenon could be affecting. Geoff Gibson
Are there any warning signs that the lower unit may need repaired or replaced? 2005 Yamaha 50 HP in particular. Thanks. Harry
I have a 16 ft Key Largo, after filling gas tank up to the neck, an hour later I can refill another half gallon...I thought a bubble was the cause. I fed a 13 ft hose through the gas tank filler opening...no change, the gas gage regesters 1/4 to 1/2 full. I thought the float might have a hole, causing a low reading. Overnight the gas level drops and I refill another 3/4 gallon of gas up to the neck again, the gas gage still regesters low. What would cause my having to top off the tank in order to make sure I have a full tank (21 gals.) Your help would be greatly apreciated...Charlie Feinberg
I have a 1999 150 hp Mercury outboard mounted on a 20 FT ProLine CC. When moving through the water slowly (3 - 5 mph), we are actually plowing water, the engine will proceed to over heat. When up on step or idleing the temp returns to normal operating range. Any idea on what would cause this?
I have a 1999 Sea Ray 180 DC with a 135 merc outboard. The boat has a built-in bait well in the back as part of the fishing package available when it was new. There are 2 through-hull plastic fittings beneath the boat for water intake and discharge from the bait well. One is approximately one inch in diameter, the other about 1-3/8. I do not use the bait well, and would like to remove all the plumbing and fittings and plug the through-holes. Do they make through-hull plugs? Who would carry them? I have not been able to find anything at West Marine. Thanks, Bill
I desperatly need help....I own a 2001 Sea Ray 270 powered by a 7.4MPI (454) with a bravo 3 drive. A few years ago I noticed the boat was not running at WOT. I would drive and be at 3/4 throttle at about 4100RPMs. When I pushed the finale 1/3 throttle the engine had no change. No more RPMs no more roar. I checked the throttle plate and when the gas arm was fully forward the throttle plate was open all the way and the linkage was correct. The boat purrs. No miss, starts right up, just when I get 4-5 people abord, she has a heck of a time getting on plane and she should jump their as she once did. I contribute this to the last 1/3 throttle doing nothing. I dropped props from factory 24 to 22 on both ends. Not 1 rpm difference? Should have been at least 4-600 increase. Had a marine repair shop come out and they hooked up a lap top. Said no errors. They checked the fuel pump at idle and at WOT, everything was checked and double checked. Did say the dwell was not advancing far enough to get the WOT. Thus the ECM thoughts. He then replaced my wires, plugs, cap, rotar timing okay the works. I said I never heard of all that having to do with RPMs when the boat runs perfect except for not reaching WOT. Still the same. They took all the reports and called mercruiser who said it was the ECM. $1400 to replace and will not guarantee it will solve the problem and if it doesn't I'm out the money. No RETURNS. Everyone agrees the boat should run out at 4600 low to 5000RPMs. My question is can I have the ECM reflashed/rebuilt to higher specs for a cheaper cost to me? If so who does this? Only places I find online are for cars. And most car ECM are in the 400 dollar range. Yeah I know, marine.... I have a DELPHI 1623699 serial 866999KA00054918 I am open to any and all suggestions. The last company wanted 900 for the days work they did. I bartered them down to 400 for the tune up and mechs time. Oh and they are rated a good place for repairs. I think he was as stumped as I and pulling at straws for a fix. Please help. I have the ECM out and boating season is fast approaching. What causes this RPM loss. Back to Top
I have a 1987 Glass Master and is 17 1/2 feet long. I need to put a new floor in it and so my question is that "when I take the floor out do I have to worry about cutting cross beams or supports?" I would like to make the floor a fiberglass floor, what can I use to replace it with?
We have a 1987 Chris Craft with a hot water heater that works sometimes and not at others. There is power at the board but no hot water. Is there a relay or switch between the board and the heater or should I be changing elements?
Good afternoon I have a mercury 150 hp xr 6, 2001 (2 stroke outboard) on my boat that I purchased last year. The motor has low hours and looks immaculate. The motor starts fine on a cold start even after not starting for over 2 weeks. But after going up river and shutting the motor off it is very hard to start and sometimes it takes over a half hour to get it started again. Usually the boat is docked for several hours before I try to start it up at the end of the day. Every time I leave I worry it will not start and with 2 young children it make me nervous. I've done some research on the internet and can not locate any answers. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Matt. Western MA.
We have a 40ft. Motor Yacht, just replaced the House Batteries 2ea. 4D's and Start Batteries 2ea. 95amp. and 1ea. 95amp for the GenSet (6.5kw) about 3 months ago. When I checked the Water Level (3 weeks ago), All batteries were approx. 1" below the cells. This has never happened. It took 2 and 1/2 gals. of water to fill all batteries. The battery charger is a NewMar 35amp 3 Bank Charger. I think the charger is not shutting off when the batteries are charged. We are presently turning off the charger at night and on during the day; we live aboard. We also have a 2000 Watt Invertor/50amp Charger, that has 2ea. 8D Batteries; we do not seem to have a problem with this system. We think the charger should be replaced. After calling Newmar, they say we should buy a larger charger, at least 40amp. Can we get by with a smaller charger, like a 20amp or 30amp? Is it true that the only difference is it will take longer to charge the batteries? After we replace the charger, the battery company said if we bring the batteries to them, they will check them, and if they need to be replaced, they will help us with the cost; as we just bought them 3 months ago. We are trying to keep costs down. Most 40amp, 3 Bank Chargers cost approx. $500. and up. We have seen 20amp, and 30amp 3 Bank Chargers for approx. $250. The Battery Charger Output (3) Banks are wired to the Center Battery Selector Switch; there 3 Battery Selector Switches. And, the Com (Ground) is wired to the Starboard House Battery. We purchased the boat with the battery charger and wiring as it is now. But, are not sure it is wired properly? We can send a copy of the Battery Selector Switch Wiring; it came with the boat. It shows the Selector Switch wiring to the Batteries, but does not show the Battery Charger Wiring to the Selector Switches. We are still trying to Trace the Bank #3 from the Charger; we thought it should go to the GenSet Start Battery. What is your Best Advise for this problem, we want to be sure and get this system correct and is there a Battery Charger you think is best? Thank you. Louis F. Schlotter Creative Design Specialties (Wife's business) 3333 Midway Drive, Suite 103 San Diego, CA 92110
Tom 7 Mel, I have a 42 SeaRay Sundancer with 315 cummins eng. The rubber Tee handles on the control levers are worn. The throttle controls are stiff and I cann't move them together to maintain the same Rpms. I have to bump each seperatly to get them even. When I replace the contol levers, can I also replace the linckage cable with a hydraulic system. What is the level of difficulty making this conversion. Are there any conversion kits available, I only seen conversion kit for hydraulic steering. Thanks.. Lee Roach
My 40HP Merc (2 stroke) started stalling and quitting at 1500-2000RPM..it will start up again and run good at 3500-5000rpm but quit if I try to go back to 2000rpm?? Just had new water pump installed and engine ran fine on trip from boat yard to home ( 4miles ) . Noticed oil in water when I started up the next time. Thought it was because I may have overfilled with oil...Hope you can help, Thanks Bob in Cocoa Beach
Can I use a JABSCO (or any other brand) impeller in place of a OBERDORFER impellor in my 1969 Atomic Four engine. The reason I ask this is because of the high price of an OBERDORFER impellor. $48.00 TIA
I have replaced my shift cable and yes i had a mechanic adjust it but the shift lever roller pops out of the guide and it leaves me with reverse only. Can you tell me what adjustment will stop it from popping out. The mechanic said the cable was loose but I lifted the assembly up and it is tight. This is an 3.0 liter OMC/King Cobra Stern Drive 1987 GM style. It has a plastic guide that fits over the shift lever cable held in by a retainer. The shift lever roller fits into a slot and shifts back in forth when the Shift Control is shifted from forward, neutral or reverse. Unfortunately the shift lever roller is popping out when under load(operating) conditions. I had to go 6 or more miles in reverse the last weekend. It has play on the guide which allows for it to pop out of the slot and of course underway i cannot remove the stern drive to reposition it. Please advise how i can correct this
I recently purchased my first boat. It is a 2002 Bayliner 2150 which has a Mercruiser 5.0 V8. I don't know how many hours are on it, but the engine is very clean. When I stop the engine after running at normal cruise speed, it wants to keep running for a second or two. If I let it idle for a minute or two, it doesn't do this. I have replaced the spark plugs with the correct recommendation (the old plugs were not), but it is still "dieseling". I understand this might be caused from carbon buildup in the cylinders. Would the octane rating have anything to do with this; will damage occur? Any suggestions (additives, etc.)? Sincerely, Robert Talley
I have an alarm that goes off on my key switch. I have a 225 Mercury saltwater optimax. So far I have replaced both batteries and the battery wireing. I have been told it is a low voltage alarm. Thank you. John
Have a black burn mark on my fiberglass transome about 6" ' by6" how should I repair it went through gelcoat and I can feel fiberglass strands. cream color hull. Thanks Tom
I have a Volvo Penta AQ271 engine. I would like to install a engine temperature warning buzzer. I have a Cole Hersee Warning Kit. Issue: The engine has only one port on the thermostat housing for the pressure switch. The gauge pressure switch for the temperature gauge is in the port. My mechanic recommended putting a pressure switch in the water drain plug port. Is this a good idea, or should I use a t-pipe to put the temperature gauge switch and warning switch in the same port on the thermostat housing.
I have a 1690 2002 Maritime skiff. The boat is a self bailing hull that is completely foam filled including the inside of the fiberglass grid under the deck. The foam surrouning the grid has somehow become waterlogged. I have had the mechanic at the boat yard put a brass drain in the transum, yet very little water has migrated out. Any suggestions as to how to get the water out of the foam without ripping the entire deck up?
Thanks for any reply. The foredeck on my formaula had a LOOK of mud swirled into the wax. It leaves the wax with a dull gray, brown look. The boat is a 2007. The apple red hull looks fine and has had the same level of care.I used a Carnuba wax that was tan in color. I use a power buffer. The boat gets waxed 2 times a year. How can I get the current layer of wax off to get 2 new coats on? I do not want to have to compound because the gelcoat is in perfect condition. Does the color of the wax have anything to do with it? Could a dirty applicator have caused the problem. Thanks
I have 1999 MAXUM 3300 with twin mercruiser 300 hp. The port engine recently stopped and makes a horrible noise when attempting to start. My mechanic says I need to replace the engine and I have no reason to doubt although we have yet to haul the boat. I have been quoted $5,000-6,000 for the complete job using a rebuilt mercruiser block. The engine has approximately 500 hrs. and is regularly maintained. Does this sound reasonable?
I have an older ST-6000 autohelm that seems to work OK but it appears that the PO wired is such that there are two 10AWG wires from the circuit breaker to the autohelm computer (same connection). The wire length is about 12 feet and the current draw is about 20 amps (requires a 23 amp fuse). My question relates to using two 10AWG wires Vs. one 8 or 6 AWG wire. Is there a reason on a boat that one should not double up wires? I am struggling with the "if it works don't mess with it" Vs. this just doesn't seem right and therefore should be changed. What is your perspective. Thanks Andy
I have a 1989 110 Evinrude outboard which I have not used in 2 years. I bought the unit used with a Seawswirl 19' cuddy classic and it only had 100 hours in 1995. Since then I have only put about 200hrs on the unit. I have only run in moslty in fresh and twice in brackish water and flushed the motor after every use. I winterized it 2007 without fuel. I drained the tank after I winterized the motor with treated fuel, and I fogged the engine, and ran treated water (with antifreeze) through the intakes. I want to get it ready for boating and would like to know if spraying the piston cylinders with 3-in-1 oil is a good idea? Thank you. Jose
I have a 1998 mercury 150 HP. I heard an alarm of a solid beep just after starting the motor. I shut it down and then restarted and the alarm went away. This happened a few times that day. Any ideas on the root cause????
I have a 1998 Mercury Force engine and a water pressure gage. I noticed that the pressure dropped by about half suddenly. However the "pee hole" had a pretty decent stream at all RPM's. I replaced the impeller which had no effect. I then replaced the thermostat, and noticed that a large percentage of it had corroded away. I now have very good pressure (10psi) at idle, but the "pee hole" has no flow. If I increase the idle to 2000 rpm, I get a decent stream from the pee hole. What do i need to look at next? Mike
After 40 years of freshwater boating, covered docks, etc., my wife and I moved our 44 ft. Silverton to Gulf Shores, AL to live aboard. Are there any books on boating in salt water i.e. caring for the boat and its mechanical, electrical, exterior, hull, etc. I need all the help I can get. Thanks, Ed Koch email@example.com
ON MY WELLCRAFT MARTINQUE 2600 I AM TRYING TO REMOVE THE SEATS SO I CAN REPAIR THEM HOWEVER I CAN'T SEEM TO FIND OUT HOW TO REMOVE THEM THE ONE ACROSS FROM THE HELM THE LOUNGE ONE I CAN'T REMOVE AT ALL
Tom: I have a 1995 Avon that used to be a beautiful red--over the years, despite maintenance, she is no longer bright and shiny--West has an Inflatable 'coating'--I have two questions--- 1( Our local inflatable dealer tell me NEVER paint the boat, if a leak developes you'll never find it, as the leak will travel away from the hole. 2( If this is true, what if anything, can I use to achieve the restoration? Lee Hornack St. Joseph, MI
Hi, I recently installed a new bilge drain on my 1976 Albin Vega sailboat. After the epoxy cured, I filled the bilge with water to see if the drain was leaking with the plug in. It wasn't, but the hull surrounding the bilge was! Water was leaking through from the inside to the outside. What's going on? Thanks, Bob M.
I have a 1996 Sea Ray 290 Sundancer with twin 4.3LX and Alpha I Generation II drives. I noticed when I winterized the boat that very little exhaust noise came out of the port drive. The water flow was there, but no noise. The starboard engine and drive were normal. The port engine runs a little hotter than the starboard also. I wonder if I have some type of restriction. Any thoughts on the issue?
I have a 1996 33ft. monocat. The two Yamaha 250's outboards seem to be too heavy and when on the water, about 6 inches of the lower drives remain in the water. This causes barnacles and other algae to stick to the bottom of the lower drives when the boat is on the slip for a couple of days. Is there any inexpensive way to lift up the stern of the boat from the water so that the outboard lower drives will be completely out of the water while on the boat slip?
What tips do you have to replace the water pump impeller on a 2000 50 hp Johnson? How do I disconnect the shifting rod and water outlet pipe?
I HAVE RE-POWERED MY 22 FT. SEARAY WITH A RE-BUILT ENGINE USING THE ORIGINAL OUT DRIVE. THE SEALS & BOOT ETC. WERE REPLACED BY A MARINE SHOP. THE ENGINE RUNS FINE HOWEVER ON TWO OCCASIONS WATER HAS GOTTEN INTO THE ENGINE BLOCK. I HAVE CHANGED THE OIL THREE TIMES AFTER EACH OCCURANCE. I AM AT A LOSS AS TO HOW THIS HAPPENS. I AM WONDERING IF IT IS BECAUSE THERE ARE NO FLAPPER VALVES INSTALLED IN THE EXAUST SYSTEM. ASLO COULD REVING THE ENGINE AT SHUT DOWN AFTER A RUN BE PART OF THE PROBLEM?
i have re-powerd my 23 ft searay with a re-built mercruiser engine using the old out drive. the engine runs fine however on two occasions water has gotten into the engine block. i have changed the 3 or 4 times after each incident. i am at a loss as to how this happens. i am wondering if it is because there are no flapper valves in the risers or manifolds. i should mention that when returning from a run i rev the engine at shut-diwn, could this be part of the problem
i recently bought a 1988 wellcraft st tropez need top rollers for plexiglass entry door can you help me locate replacements thanks ken
I live on the Hudson river about 90 miles north of NYC. We use Ethanol here. I did NOT use my boat (1988 Donzi Ragazza with a 260 Chev engine with an 80 gallon tank) this summer at all and it is still winterized from the fall of 2008. I put in more of the marine stabile last week, but I saw Bob's article (Nov/Dec 2009). What would you recommend to do about this gas? thanks.......... Bruce
When I shift into reverse on each engine(5.7L 1987 Searay Sundancer)it kills the engine. I had a lot of parts replaced in the spring, including the shifter cables.They probably need to be adjusted, but I Don't know how , but I would like to know how. Hope fully you can tell me.Thanks
Last Saturday, my Marina accidently pumped some 36 gals of diesel fuel into my starboard gas tank (cap @ 125 gals). My engines are 8.1 Sho Merc Cruisers (year 2006 - low hours) - gasoline. The Marina pumped out some 60 gals and refueled with another 60 gals of gas. After we left dock, we ran at low speed and RPMs @ 1 hour to anchor overnight. Next day we continued trip to Pensacola Beach but coul not get starboard engine any higher than 2400 RPM's. Port ran at 3200 -3400 RPM's. Spent the night at dock and refueled another 45 gals of gas for each tank and returned to home port. I was still unable to run starboard engine over 2400 RPMs. I normally cruise at 3400 RPMs. Home dock had engine checked for me. They now report that I have a blown head gasket on starboard engine. Would this be caused by the diesel contamination?? Peter Breslin (251-607-7890)
Hello, I have a 1984 Sea Ray 270 Sundancer. 3 yrs ago I had twin 5.7L V8, Marine Power EFI's, fresh water cooled engines installed, onto the existing Mercruiser Alpha 1 outdrives. On a recent trip out both engine couplers went out on me leaving me dead in the water. There is only 50 hours on each engine. One coupler is mangled and the other the tines are completely gone. My question is, in order to replace both couplers do the engines have to be completely removed ? Also do you think I have any recourse on the installer who fitted the engines as I would think that there was an alignment problem in order for both to go on the same trip within a couple of hours of each other. This boat is kept on a trailer & not in the water. I look forward to your response. Many thanks Ronnie
i have a Chaparral 245SSI with a 305 HP Merc I/O - My tilt n Trim will not lower until the RPMs are high... Is this likely an electrical issue?
I have had my Duffy37 winterized and stored at the same marina in NY for the past 5 years. This spring it wouldnt start up. The marina then stripped the engine and told me it had water in it and proceeded to rebuild my 2004 480HP volvo diesel. New cylinders,pistons,rings etc. I got the boat back this September with a bill of $14,000.00 Nobody can tell me where the water came from. The boat worked fine when i left it the previous fall, the head gasket wasnt broken and no part is being blamed for the problem. What is the marinas liability in this situation? Do I pay the 14,000K ?
I have some teak deckwork, where the black rubber caulking between the teak slats is coming out. How do I fix/repair this black rubber caulking? What product do I need to get to replace it? thanks, Jim
I have a 1983 Chris Craft Catalina 350 Motor Yacht. No trim tabs. This boat is very hard to plane. Is there a area in the boat where the heavy items should be stored. I have heavy items in front like tools, extra anchor, fluids. dont if I am hurting the planing process, with weight up front.Thank You Ed Horning
Hello, I own a red 1990 speedboat, and I saw "Protech Presto Gelcoat Rejuvenator" advertised on Ebay for restoring the shine to faded gel coats. Have you ever heard of this product? I have compounded the hull roughly 4 times with a heavy compound and high speed buffer, and at least once with a lighter compound, but still do not have a desired finish. Thus the reason for looking at the above mentioned product. Thank you in advance. Brooks
Hi I have a Silverton 38 convertible and am having trouble with my waste holding tank gauge. The tank is hard to get to but I can get at it and have but it will be hard to remove if I need to. The gauge is no longer reading at all. I just got back from thoroughly cleaning out the tank both chemically and flushing multiple times to no avail? It is my first season with the boat and I am not yet familiar with how many flushes before I have to pump out and do not want to risk overflow so the gauge would be helpful. It did work early on this season? Any suggestions . I have checked the wiring from the tank to the gauge which is located by my electrical panel. Is this common and are gauges easily replaced? Thanks
We just changed the line going from our head to the holding tank. It was totally built up. Is there anything we can put down the toliet to keep this from happening again? Thanks for your help, Nancy
Tom Last saw you taken a pic of me catching mahi mahi on our cat crossing to bahamas couple yrs ago.. Problem driving me nuts here.. Alum fuel disiel tanks.. pitting in welds leaking. One take rewelded twice now and want to replace. Torn between Polyproplene by T M Plastics up in Maine who make poly tanks for several boat mfg in Maine and another alum tank.. My wife and I are concerned about smell from tank.. Its under our damn bunk. TM Plastics say no smell as long as vented. Have you any knowledge on this. Tank of poly will cost around 550 to match the org tank. Rum Tum Tiger Craig Farnsworth
My tach just recently started going up to 6300-6800 rpm's. I know the engine is not running that fast and I haven't lost any speed. I check the prop first but everything seems like it's fine, except the tach. What should I check first? Thanks, Lenny
I'm installing Lewmar D2 rope clutches on my C&C 34 cabintop. The cabin top is slightly rounded. Is it OK to use washers under the clutches to accommodate the non-flat surface, or would that cause a problem of some kind? Thanks, C. Wilson
Hi I am trying to find out where to get a thermostat for a Ford Lehman Diesel motor ..on the west coast...any suggestions firstname.lastname@example.org
I have a pair of 5.7 2bbl carbs 1997. I have been having trouble with my Starboard carb failing to run at low speed. I re-adjusted the jets with the screw adjustment and got it to run good but after a 2 hour run it would not run below 2k once again and I noticed a reduction in oil preasure. I restarted and it was ok at low speed but a little rough so I re adjusted the carb again and it is running beter but the oil preshure goes down after any high speed run. The oil looks great no chocolate milk and the alarm has not sounded only a reduction on the guage to about 35 psi. The other engine is at about 49 psi. This engine starts up at about 40 psi and begins a 3400 rpm run at about 49 psi then drops, No oil in bilge, no noise or smoke. Thanks for any input.
I have a 1998 carver mariner 36 ft. There is a strong oder coming from under the floor inspection doors inside the cabin.I cannot see any standing water everything seems dry.I've heared of water from the shower staying in the tank and not being all pumped out could cause a smell. Can I add something down the drain? Thanks Terry
I have a 1990 SeaRay that I recently put a new Fishfinder on. The new bracket was different then the old and had to plug the old holes. I used Marine Tex and inserted it with a plastic needle as far as I could. I let it dry for two days. Is this a good way to seal a below water level hole? Thank You Vincent Elenterio
I have a 1987 Spacecraft V240 cuddy cabin. The carpeting on the ceiling in the cabin is coming down. What type of glue or cement do you recommend to re-attach it ? Thanks, Charles
I¿m beginning to collect data and educate myself on what is involved in repowering my 1992 30' Sea Ray Sundancer. I¿m thinking that I want to step up from 5.0 to 5.7Litre (305 to 350 cu in), and I will probably need to do some sort of upgrade/rebuild so the outdrives can handle the extra hp and torque. I know there will be other things that will also need attention (I¿m thinking that while everything is torn down, I might as well replace/repair all the related ¿stuff,¿ e.g., rebuild/replace carburetors, manifolds, risers, bellows, props, etc). I am also concerned about choosing the correct engine technology to mitigate the deleterious effects of E10 ethanol. since I don¿t have the tools, equipment, knowledge or skills to do this myself, I want to have the job done by a trained, qualified professional. Because I am going to have to depend on someone else to do the work (and pay dearly for it); I would like to know that I¿m taking the right approach to what I want done. I need advice on how to find a business or individual in my area (Annapolis)who will: (1) work with me to determine what needs to be done; (2) provide options and tradeoffs; and (3) do the job properly at a reasonable price. Can you provide any advice/resources to help locate a business or individual that exemplifies the ¿three Rs¿ (reputable, responsible, reasonable)?
I have a 2002 wellcraft martinique 2600. I am taking on water through the bow some how. There is a vent in the Anchor locker it is just a hole with a clam shell cover over it. Is ther something elase that is suppose to be in the hole to prevent water from comming? Thanks Bob
Hello, My Name is Rich. I have a mercruiser 3.0L Alpa 1 srtern drive with a raw water cooling system, I spend my boat hours in the salt water. My question is: is there anyway to slow down rust out??
Tom & Mel Neale, The Morse shift control on my starboard engine became stiff over the winter. The port control is smooth as silk. I'm not sure if the problem is the cable or in the control lever. I can't find any information online. Can you help me? BobRose
I own a Hunter Passage 42, 1992 model. The mast step leaks and I am looking for a good procedure to seal the leak. The tech folks at Hunter recommend to unstep the mast and redo it as they did when it was new. I am unable to get that done at this time. Any suggestions? Thanks Allen
what is the best way to remove corrosion from the contacts on the wire that goes from the trailer to the hitch
Hi Tom we have a 1987 Wellcraft Antiqua with a 2001 350mag MPI Alpha 1 gen 1 The Temp.gauge is not working. We replaced both temp. sending units and gauge checked ground and power to gauge both good. Still not working. Looking down at motor the temp. sending unit with 1 wire is on left side and the other one has 2 wires is on right side. Should they be switched? or is it something else Thank You Eddie
On the outdrive underneath the manifold block the hoses that goes to pump are leaking at the manifold. Can I unhook the hoses from the pump and the cylinders and pull the hoses and manifold from the bottom? Or do they have some kind of clamp behind the drive? Thank You Brad Bischoff
Tom, I have an early '90s vintage alpha one out drive, mated to a 4.3 mercruiser. The power trim unit will lower the outdrive but will not raise it. Before I replace the entire assembly, could you offer a diagnosis as to what the cause may be. I am aware that certain parts of the power trim assembly are replaceable. Appreciate any advice you could offer. Mike Magnusson
Hello, I have a 1989 Luhrs with twin 454's, starboard engine runs fine all day long, port engine starts, and warms up and then the tach starts to jitter and the port engine quits, it restarts, and quits again. I have replaced the plugs,carb,wires,timing,all fuel lines,fuel pump,filters,water sep,thermostats, cleaned tank,fresh fuel 154 gallons,still does the same thing, starts and dies after it warms up. At 3000 rpms it does the same thing when I get on plane to cruise. Then it quits so I have to run on the starboard engine until the port engine cools off and then it will restart and I then dock the vessel. Help. Fred
Hi, I have 1998 Johnson 150Hp outboard engine (with carbs) recently check engine alarm came on owner manual direct me to check for fuel restriction which I did,usually it happend between 3500 and 5000 rpm. I changed siphon valve (with sender) on tank (I check overflow valve on tank its ok) ,water/ separator filter, prime bulb, hose betweem and fuel filter on engine and all repares did not fix my problem any sugestions? PS. When alarm go ON engine sound just fine , alarm and light stay ON for 30-40 sec and goes OFF. Than you
My question relates to ethanol. My boat is a 38' 1990 Carver Santego - the larger version with a 14' beam. Engines - 2 Mercruiser 454s with 350 hp each. Will this boat have problems with ethanol? If so, what steps should I take to protect it? Thanks, Roy Gainesville, GA
I have a 1998 Skagit orca 27xlc with a volvo IO with counterrotating props. I have developed a fuel leak in the diesal tank. I have been told to remove this tank you must pull the engine. Could this be true? Thank You, Howard Safir email@example.com 3478863949
The strainer housings and rudder shaft packing housings have begun to turn green and show corrosion. What is the cause and how do I resolve this problem?
Took my 1992 23ft Bayliner Trophy out for the first time it ran fine but I got some sort of grumble at about 3000 rpm give or take 1000? Its been all tune up and runs fine at speeds under and over. It has a 3.4 v6 alpha 1 out drive upper half was just rebuilt. any ideas? So far I did 32mph at 4800rpm what would be the top speed and rpm of this boat? motor is a 2004 With appox. 250hr. Thanks for any Help Paul
hi, I am in the process of removing bottom paint from my C&C 29' (1976). After many hours (days) of sanding and scraping and sanding, paint is off the fiberglass....yippee. I started to remove the remaining paint on the metal (lead) portion of the keel, and have exposed quite a bit of the keel metal. Probably half down the keel now. Looks like there is a slight epoxy layer (?) under the old and tough paint at the keel. Question... Should I continue to take all the old paint and epoxy off, or just sand some (make smooth) and apply a primer. If I do take continue to take off the old paint to the metal, should I apply a layer of West epoxy over the keel to "fair" it out? Is there a better method? After all done, i plan to use the interprotect 2000 barrier, then micron bottom. Sure will be glad when all done. Thanks for your time and thoughts. Not sure which is the best direction to go for the keel clean. Tim
I have a Sports Port floating dock used for jet boats. It is a poly (plastic) product. I have an older version which does not have any way to purge water that gets in due to damage, leakage, etc. I would like to install a small "weep hole" in each of the four separate components but would like your suggestion as to what to install. I would like something like small boats have for draining that screws out to purge and back when going into the water but need something fairly small and flush yet strong. I am thinking about something that would be two parts: the base with a few small screws to hold in place while the cement sets up and the screw in plug. The material of the float is similar in depth to a jet ski hull. Any ideas? Thanks. Merrill
Boat Maintenance. I have a sailboat on the hard. Should I polish or do anything special to my 2 bladed prop? Boat's 30 years old and smooth although discolored...Thanks!
i have a 380 sundancer with 8.1 mercruiser horizon inboards. over the last 2 years i spent a considerable sum of money to replace the aluminum water rails on both engines because they were severely corroded. while dewinterizing the engines this spring my tech noticed one of my risers was extremely hot and on closer inspection the exhaust manifolds are corroded. he indicated he wants to replace all the aluminum manifolds with cast iron ones eliminating the water rails completely. does this make sense especially since i just replaced all the water rails.
Hi, I have water leaks around cabin eye brow trim on my 35 ft wooden sail boat. Any sealants you would suggest between top of trim and cabin sides.Have tried silicon sealant with no luck. Some have suggested I remove trim and fiberglass seam between cabin sides and top. But at 82 I am looking to an easier solution. Thanks for your advice. Joe
I own a 95 glastron 235ssv, with a 5.8 l ford engine with a volvo-penta outdrive. the boat runs well at slow speeds but when you try to open the engine up it falls flat on its face and has to be restarted. repairs that have been done were a new fuel pump,gas removed from tank that appeared to be contaminated. a tune up was done plus the carbuerator was overhauled. what should be done next to help resolve this problem? hope to hear from you
Good morning my name is Bob Hoffman I live in New Jersey. I own a 23 foot Polar walk around, and I have a question about Ethanol 10 gasoline My boat is two years old with a plastic gas tank I keep reading articles about what can happen with Ethanol gas if left in your fuel tank for extended periods of time called phase seperation where the gas will become usless Last season August I topped off my gas tank which holds 150 gallons when I stored it for the winter is was between half and three quarters full I added a product called E-Zorb which was supposed to stop phase seperation I also added Sta-bil to the gasoline and covered it Now I read an article stating that I should have filled it up to 95 percent full Later in the article it said Ethanol 10 has a shelf life of 6 weeks so why should I fill up my take back in November only to have it sucked out in the spring The article went on to say only buy enough gas that you will use up in 6 weeks what is that all about Is there a product on the market which can test my current gas for phase seperation before I startup my outboard for the first time this spring And if it is bad ??? how do I get rid of my bad gas who will take it Signed totally confused Please E-mail me back or give me a call @ 609-352-0975 Thanks for your help, I think there are alot of people out there just as confused as me
Owner of 2004 Sea Ray Sundancer 260. I have factory installed Lofrans Marlin Windlass in my boat. I have a problem that the windlass, made for chain and rope, does not get the complete rope/chain/anchor up, but always when the thick part of the rope, where the chain is connected, the windlass roller teeth cannot get grip of it because of the thickness and windlass rolls without taking more rope up. I always have to go and manually help over that part in the anchor lift process. Any ideas/parts change recommendations how I could get this problem fixed? Thanks/Mikko
Sleeping with batteries. Are there any health or safety issues with sleeping in close proximity to two deep cycle batteries in the cabin? The unfortunate layout of my cabin has the two batteries within 6 inches of the head of the quarter berth. They sit slightly lower than the berth and are not in danger of being reached out and touched while a person tosses in his sleep, but they are frighteningly close to where a person or two would be breathing in their vapors all night long. Anything to worry about?
I have a 1989 searay 34ft. its geting water in the cabin around and above the port windows. I think the bowrail stands are leaking,but not sure how to seal them. I know the bolts have nuts on them so I'm wondering if I have to take the head liner down to get at them. Also what sealant to use. Ron
Hi, I have a 200hp Mercury 2-cycle engine. It starts fine, revs up fine in neutral, but will not go over 2500 rpm or 5mph when I put it in gear. Is this a coil problem? If so, is it something I can change myself? If not a coil problem what might be causing it? Thanks
My air conditioner raw coolant water line looses its prime after the boat has been out of the water on its lift. I put a check valve in the line a few years ago that helped for a while. Do I need to replace/repair the check valve? If the water input line could be made longer or elevated (above the waterpump level) at the pick up end, will this solve the problem? Should the water pump (1990 vintage) be replaced/repaired? The air conditioner runs fine (good water outlet flow)when it has a good coolant water supply. Please advise, Tom
Dear Tom and Neale, I purchased a 1997 Sea Ray Sundancer 270 recently. Water has been accumulating in the cabin stairwell, where the shower/AC sump pump is located. After inspection, the water appears to be coming from the exhaust hose at the hull fitting. I have removed the steps for better access, and have discovered that the hose bends around a corner and proceeds aft. There appears to be no way to access the fitting. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you. Bill Hipp
I have old wood taken from inside an older boat. It was being discarded by someone replacing some interior on a very older sail boat. I am trying to determine if it is actually "teak" as it looks like teak with a finish. Is there any true test to determine if this is teak or a look alike? Thanks, Jim..
5 years ago I had my bottom peeled and interlux treatment installed because of blisters. Today I pulled my boat and found hundreds of blisters again. Most are wet and between the layers of paint and sealer. Is this a Interlux problem or a poor job done at the marina? Interlux says it's not the product and the marina says they did the job correctly. I spend $22,000 for the peel job and now they tell me I need to spend another $10,000 to repair the problem. Thats $32,000 for blisters in 5 years. Who's the problem?
Hi to all!! We always here about getting more M.P.G.s (if you will), out of your boat. Leave home anything that you don't need, go out with only the fuel or water you need, trim your boat ect......... I can go on. The one thing I NEVER here of is, what can you do to the engine. Exsamples, a better coil, engine timing, better plug wires, better throttle bodies or spacers. Again, I can go on....... This is what I would like to know and I hope others would too. I would like to hear more on this subject from the experts like your self. Thank You Paul Inconiglios
HI, I HAVE A 30 FOOT SLOOP 10400 DISPLACMENT. I CAN'T AFFORD AN INBOARD AND MINE IS DYING. CAN I PUT AN OUTBOARD ON MY TRANSOM. ANY PROBLEMS WITH WEIGH. HP IKNOW THAT I WON'T HAVE THE CHANGING POWER OF AN INBOARD BUT I CAN'T AFFORD 12000 DOLLARS AND A FRIEND HAD ONE REPLACED TWO YEARS AGO IN HER 30 FOOT SLOOP. MANY PEOPLE HAVE TALKED ABOUT GOING TO OUTBOARDS ANY INPUT WOULD BE APPRECIATED THANKS
My friend has a 39 ft Jeanneau sail boat and docks it in shallow water. Every day when the tied goes out it sits in the mud. The water line is at least two feet above the water when the tide goes out. Does this twice daily process damage the boat?
Don, I have a quick question for you. Last season my exhaust bellow seemed to come loose and eventually came off. I have had it replaced by my Marina since then. Well, a few weeks ago I pulled the boat out to replace my prop and nticed they didn't do the job currently and it came off again (btw it is a 2004 Bayliner 245 5.0Merc/Alpha GenII). To me ever since the bellow came off the boat doesn't appear to get as good of gas mileage and don't seem like plaining off is as smooth as it used to be. Is all this my imagination or can the exhaust bellow have this kind of an effect when it is not properly connected? Thank you, Phil
I have a question on the new fuel with ethanol. I've been reading several articles over the past year and they all seem to have a different aspect. My gas tank is 3 years old and I've been finding in the bottom of my fuel separator bowl a tan colored sludge. Is this separating from the fuel? I have been using Star Tron and I still get the sludge. I have a 225 Yamaha and on acceleration it seems to be pinging. Any suggestions?
How do I replace the centerboard (daggerboard) line on my 1978 o'day 23 Thanks, pete
I recently bought a 115 hp mercury mariner outboard SER#A128889 and put it on my 1995 190 proline boat. When I got the boat a year ago it had a 120 Force on it. I am trying to hook up a Teleflex tach and need to know which wire is the sending wire. Also could you tell me the year of the motor and reccomend a prop. I use the boat mostly for fishing. thanks in advance!
I have a 7.4 ltr Gi DP volvo penta stern drive. My question is, mechanically the trim works but my gauge isn't. How can I determine if the gauge is bad, or the sending unit is bad?
I've a 1978 Bombay Clipper (31') that has an alcohol stove of undetermined origin. I poured in some alcohol, pumped it up, turned it on as per the instructions and nothing happened. There was supposed to be some alcohol appear in the "cup" bud i didn't see any. I suspect it hasn't been used in years, certainly not in the 5 years i've had the boat. Is there something i can do to re-build it and make it usable? I want to do some serious Great Lakes Cruising...Thanks in advance!
My bilge recently filled with water. What should I do before attepting to start the engine?
Hello, I have a new Whittley 2590 small cruiser. The boat has one 5.0 MPI mercruiser (260 HP), Bravo III. The drive lube reservoir goes down (not much/about one finger)every time I use the boat and I have to add some drive lube every week. However, there's no oil in the bilge are. The engine and outdrive is under warranty by Mercury. I contacted Mercury; they advised me to have the outdrive pressure tested. I took the outdrive to a Mercury certified marine mechanic who informed me that the outdrive holds the pressure OK. No leaks. He also informed me that water is not getting into the drive. I pick up the outdrive today and plan to have it installed tomorrow. Please allow me to explain: I did not drive the boat to the mechanic. My boat is sitting on a rack at the marina; I just took the outdrive. It will take me about 2 1/2 hrs to drive the boat to the closest marine mercury mechanic. There are other marine mechanics in the area. But some are not mercury certified and the ones that are certified do not show interest in performing a "warranty" job. They are busy and rather take care of more profitable jobs. That's way I had to haul my boat out of the water, remove the outdrive and take it to a mercury mechanic who lives 1 hour away (by car). I have two questions: 1-Should I wait until the end of the season to have a mechanic check the whole outdrive/housing? Or should I drive the boat to the mechanic now? It's going to cost me a lot of money and time to drive that boat to the mechanich. 2-If there's no oil in the bilge are and the outdrive passed the pressure test, where is the leak? Thanks Lui
What is the life expectancy of Mercury transmission oil coolers used in salt water? I understand that Mercury had a problem with their transmission oil coolers from 2001 to 2003, they were failing. I'd appreciate any information that you could give me. Johnny
I have a 2001 Wellcraft 2800 with twin Volvo 205 stern drives. When I bring the boat up to about 4000 rpms and run for 5 or 10 minutes the port engine drops down to about 2000 rpms and the engine alarm goes off. I noted too that the engine temp on that side rises as well. What could be the cause?
Hi, I'm replacing the wood base to the bow seats in my bowrider. The vinyl is in good condition, but the wood is shot. Should I seal the wood with fiberglass resin to maximize its life or do you recommend another product? Is there anything else I should do while the seats are completely disassembled? Thanks.
Tom, you earlier helped us with re-sealing the salon windows in our Gulfstar Sailmaster 47. Now, I have not a question, but an interesting topic for you. We recently discovered that the wet exhaust elbows for the Perkins were not only made of cast iron but one was very rotten and leaking. We replaced the elbows (3 of them) with fiberglass and replace the hose. I have some excellent the rotten elbow with only the hose holding it together. Also, some pictures of the wet exhaust anti-siphon with it's two cast iron elbows plus some 'after' pictures of the finished exhaust system. Cast iron is definately not the ideal material for handling hot, acidic, salt water exhaust. If you are interested in the pix, give me an email address and you are welcome to use them in your writings as you see fit. Bob Servis s/v Calypso's Mermaid
We are wondering what types of problems we might create for our boat from a mechanical standpoint, if we leave it stored/winterized until the 2009 summer boating season. It was stored last fall with full tank of gas. Thanks
I have a 29ft. Sea Ray. The instrument panels are degrading and need to be replaced. Do you know of a source for new instrument panels?
Tom & Mel, I recently purchased a 225 Four Winns Boat and found that someone had put about a gallon or two of gasoline into the water holding tank. The gas was run through the lines to the sink and transom shower. I currently have flushed the system with soap and a small amount of bleach. Will the gas smell ever go away or should I look into replacing the entire system?
I am looking for an air mattress for the v-berth in our Bayliner 2452 Express Cruiser. Do you know of any that might fit?
Hey! I have a new 1780 Carolina Skiff with a 70hp Suzuki four-stroke. Love the boat. I installed the transducer for a Humminbird fishfinder/depthsounder on the starboard side of the transom, then at the suggestion of Carolina Skiff I epoxied it in the "bilge" where the pump is located. The problem persists: Turbulence from the flat bottom makes the unit nonfunctional -- unless the boat's moving at 2-3 mph. It's now back at the original location, installed at precisely the distance below the hull Humminbird specifies. No improvement in performance. Got a solution?
We have a 30 foot trimaran that needs to be hauled for some work. Where can I find a boatyard that can haul a boat with a 22-foot beam and will let us work on the boat ourselves? Just about anywhere on the Florida east coast north of Ft. Lauderdale would be good.
I have a 2005, 270CR Monterey cruiser with the 8.1 Volvo engine. I can't find much in the owners manual about changing the fuel filter. I am curious if the system is pressurized or is it as simple as taking the old filter off and installing a new one. Thanks Scott
HI, THANKS FOR THE INPUT ABOUT WATER IN THE BILGE. I JUST WORKED WITH EPOX AND IT HEATED UP ON MY ROLLER DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS HOW TO PUT IT IN KEEL CAVITY??? I FORGOT TO TELL YOU THE BOAT WAS GROUNDED WHEN I SAW THE BOAT IT HAD WATER IN THE BOAT AS LEAVES CLOGGED THE DRAINS IT COULD HAVE BEEN THERE FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS OR MORE. I BELIEVE THE GROUNDING CAUSED THE FIBERGLASS TO LIFT OFF THE HULL IN SEVERAL PLACES. ALSO THE BOAT HAS BEEN ON THE HARD FOR 18 MONTHS ABOUT. I AM GOING TO FIX ALL FIBERGLASS PROBLEMS THAT I CAN FIND THANKS AGAIN
MOLD IN KEEL CAVITY. RECENTLY I DRILLED HOLES IN THE BOTTOM OF MY KEEL WATER CAME OUT WHICH WAS RELATED TO A FLOOD THE PREVIOUS OWNER HAD (THE WATER WAS SLIGHTLY ABOVE THE BILGE AND SOME FIBERGLASS LIFTED IN BILGE. WHEN THE WATER CAME OUT IT HAD A SLIGHT MUSTY SMELL AND I AM CONCERNED ABOUT MOLD. SHOULD I PUT BLEACH OR PEROXIDE IN THE CAVITY TO KILL ANY MOLD THAT MAY HAVE DEVELOPED. PLEASE HELP ITS MY FIRST BOAT 30 ODAY LEAD ENCAPSULATED KEEL. WATER WAS IN THE CAVITY FOR A YEAR AS I SAW PROBLEM BEFORE I BOUGHT THE BOAT. THANKS FOR HELP
I have had problems with urethane peeling off my sole, which I redid last year. I am not sure what is causing it to lift in certain spots. Is there a way to redo just the problem areas without having to strip the entire floor, so that the repair looks seamless? What are your thoughts on using newer water based urethane products on the sole rather than oil based? Thanks, Dr. S.
We have a 2000 Doral 300SE. How do I check to amke sure the halon system is working properly? Never had a problem but would like to know everything is OK. Thanks
I have a 1978 25' Montego sail boat. The inside walls of the hull were covered with fabric and a cushioned backing. Over the years the fabric became moldy. I removed all the fabric, and I srubbed the boat clean. I was going to replace the fabric, but decided it would be a better idea to paint. Can you please advise me as to how and what product I should use to accomplish this project? Thank-you Miss Paddy
When ordering a new Jeanneau if you wanted a blue hull would you go with factory blue gel coat or paint the hull blue during outfitting? I have heard from the broker that the blue gel coat fades and is difficult to repair. From: "Seeking a blue hull"
I have a 2003 Sea Ray Sundeck 220. The portside hull is concave shaped on the underside on the back 20% causing the boat to list to the Starboard side when underway. The Starboard side of the hull is shaped correctly. It looks like the hull must have been set down uneven on something after it came out of the mold. The concave section of the portside hull is about half an inch deep at its deepest point. The hull is under warranty. Sea Ray wants to build-up the starboard side of the hull to correct the problem on the portside of the hull. This does not sound like the best way to correct the problem. Please advise. Thank you.
AFTER REFUELING AT FT MYERS BRIDGE AND AFTER 1ST POWER REDUCTION, RPM PORT ENG FLUCUATED +/- 1500 THEN STEADIED. DID THIS 2 MORE TIMES BEFORE DOCKING FOR NITE. NEXT AM STARTED,POWERED UP NORMAL FOR 1 1/2 HR, THEN AFTER IDLE DID IT AGAIN. CHECKED FUEL/WATER SEPAR BOTH ENG AND LITTLE OR NONE. SO FAR CANNOT FIND ANY OTHER FUEL FILTER. COULD IT BE A VALVE(S)? INITIAL FULL POWER TO PLANE IS NORMAL. HAPPENS ON POWER REDUCTION. THANX AL VORAS
I recently purchased a Hunter Passage 42. It has the original CNG system. I would like to convert to LP. Many of these Hunters had the CNG in the early 1990's. Where were most LP lockers installed on these vessels? Can you offer any suggestions? Thanks Allen
Hello Tom & Mel. Please tell me all you know about checking in the marina as to which boat is sending electricity into the water. Or where to look for the tools and information. Thank you. Art.
Hi Tom and Mel, I have a pair of 305 220 hp crusaders in a 1989 carver voyager. This weekend my wife and I were cruising up the Inner-coastal waterway at about 25 Knots and hear an immediate pop from the port side engine. After shutting it down (out of extreme fear of the money monster) I checked the port outside exhaust and noticed that this is where the sound is coming from. I didn't lose compression, fluids, or water. Since it sounds like I'm running "glass-packs" now like my exhaust gasket blew out. My question is this, should I take this directly to the shop, or is this simply a noise issue until I get it repaired. Will it damage my engine further? Thanks, in advance. Mark H.
I have a 2003 v4.3 volvo penta that runs grat a an Idle but starts missing and quits after about 5 nmin running at 2000 t0 2500 rpm. Have checked the gas, there is no codes on the enginge check
Hi Tom, I have a 1984 chris commander. built like a brick you know what lol. This summer i bumped the dock on a trip. The corner of the port stern has a quarter sized gouge in the gelcoat. The fiberglass is visible but no damage. What would you recommend for repair. I will do it myself as i have automotive body experience. Also how about repairing cracks in gelcoat at cabin corner wings?. Thanx for your help Dan
I own a 1980 Catalina 30 w/a 1998 yanmar engine/ recently the engine stop will not pull out at the cockpit control. I check for kinks or obstuctions and found none. If I manually stop the engine I can free enough slack for the control to pull all the way out. But once it is back in it's original position It won't budge. I've looped unlooped cut ties put new ones on guess I just don't get it. Help or advice would be much appreciated. Thanks
I have a 1988 Catalina 36 Hull #861 I want to know what tension and how to tune the upper and lower shrouds. I took turn buckels off one at a time and used 3M 4000 caulk from the top to seal chain plates. I did not do anything from inside the cabin. I throught cleaning out and sealing the chain plates from the top would be good enough. Is this the proper way to do it? Thank You Michael Stuart (Scalawag) Long Beach, CA
Tom, I have a 35 hp universal diesel in my catalina 30. Notice that engine stalls when I drop the rpms down below 1000. any thoughts? Given the the water is getting colder perhaps I'm not letting the engine get warm enough?? Rich Knudson
I have a 1997 Skagit Orca with a 5.7Gi and a new long block. The engine starts good and will run great up to 1000 rpms. From 1000-2000 rpms I have to ease the throtle back and forth to get the rpms to increase without killing the engine, sometimes it will backfire other times it will surge and nearly die. Over 2000 rpms it seems to run OK but the fuel consumption is high. I have changed the fuel filter and added conditioner hoping that would help but it did not. I have just ordered the code reader for the ECM and the shop manual. Any suggestions?
i have just replaced my 1 piece manifolds on my 97 bayliner 4.3 to two piece manifolds.i dont seem to be getting enough water through the manifolds and risers at idle.i replaced the waterpump and housing in the drive should i be using the restricter gaskets between the manifolds and elbows, thankyou charlie
what is proper type of paint for new aluminum fuel tanks?
Tom and Mel, I have a 1986 ST Tropez 32ft Wellcraft. I had a bottom job done on it a couple of years ago that only lasted about 5 months. The build up was so bad that I had trouble planing out. I contacted the Marina that did the job for me and they agreed that the paint they used was probably bad. They redid the bottom job last April at no charge. I use the boat very regularly so it does not sit for long periods of time. I have already noticed a significant build up on the bottom again. It is hard to get on plane again. Is this what I should expect from a bottom job that costs over $1300.00? Other boaters at my Marina have older bottom jobs that are 2-3 years old and they don't cruise as much as I do and their bottom has very little build up. What should I do?
We have removed the bottom paint from our boat and have discovered some blisters and a few very thin stress cracks in the hull. The stress cracks are under the water line. We are fixing the blisters with West System. Should we grind out the gel coat around the stress cracks and repair them too or just leave them alone? Or will new bottom paint protect it? Thanks, Jeff
We have a 1973 Luhrs cabin cruiser that is 32' feet. We are having trouble flushing the head. We have been given numerous different directions from various self described "experts." Is there somewhere to go to get directions? Also our current head has a lever and requires hand pumping. Is it possible to upgrade the head to a more modern model that has a one button push flusing system. If so do you know a vendor and estimate cost? Thanks, Megan
hello i have started to experience problems with my 1998 wac 24 ft baja recently purchased,,,boat shuts off when going from neutral to reverse at the dock and i also get some kind of alarm when going moderate to high speed in open water,,,i noticed that on my blower only 1 hose was connected to the blower the end that was blowin didnt have a hose connected to it is this an issue?? thanks in advance,,, Robert
I own a 2000 Wellcraft Martinique 2600 series power boat. My fuel gauge drops to zero intermittently and sometimes jumps around when I trim the boat as well. I suspect a short. I'd like to first check and clean the connections to the gauge itself but getting access is the problem. The area beneath the steering console has very little room to reach up towards the gauge, and it's not apparent if the gauge unscrews and lifts out. Any ideas?
Shift cable routing on a 1994 3.0 liter mercruiser engine?
I have a 2000 Wellcraft Martinique 2600. When the fresh water system is pressurized, there's a "hissing" noise coming from beneath the sink in the head. The pump never reaches shut-off pressure and there are indications that I have a slow leak from my fresh water tank. I suspect the "hissing" from the sink and the leak are related. The head is molded fiberglass and doesn't have any access panels. How do I find the diagrams that will show me the access panels to the sink in the head?
I feel a little foolish asking this question, but the mechanics are not fixing the problem. I have a Mercury inboard that "clunks" when it goes into gear. There is nothing smooth about the shift at all. I have been told that it would be just a cable adjustment, and that it was done. Same problem still exists. Can this be related to idling the engine too fast? What other things should I look at?
I am having trouble hooking up my new fishfinder. I can't get the fish tape through the pipe in the bottom and to the back. Brock
is it possible to replace an entire gunnel (60 feet by 12 inches) with vinyl rather than have it painted? If so, what would be the approximate cost and how long would it last?
I have a 5.7 mercruiser with the alpha out drive. The boat/engine is equiped with a guardian bt 2000 engine flush kit. I purchased this boat used and have no idea how to use the flush system. I connected the water to the guardian flush system water input and nothing happens. Do you have any info on this system you could share with me? Rod Strom, Boat US Member 00783700
I would like to replace the drapes over the large glass area a sliding door in my Carver Santego. Someone suggested using mini-blinds. Do you have any suggestions? Eric
Hi Tom and Mel. My wife and I just boat our first boat. 20 ft Maxum runabout. We are brand new to boating and I haven't a clue about how to clean and maintain our boat. Can you direct me somewhere that will give me some tips on how to clean our boat, what products to use, how often, etc? Thanks so much! Josh
For a Bristol 32, 1981, the mast step on the deck is cracked at the lip on deck. Do you where a replacement part might be obtained. It is a cast aluminum piece. Thank you. Sam Alspach
I need to replace some Teak wood handrails on my bayliner and need to find out where I can purchase 2 Teak boards without breaking the bank. Do you know of any suppiers that will sell 2- 7" boards?
Greetings Tom and Mel, I have just purchased a Sailmaster 47 (Bacchus - formerly known as Capricious). The boat was delivered to me here in Boston from Tampa. When the boat arrived, there was a large rust stain on the side of the boat where the boat "spits" when the engine is running. The spitting comes from fittings next to the cowlings on the port side. This seems to me and others who have seen this arrangment to be very odd. Do you have any idea about this and is it necessary. Thanks, Gary Conley
I HAVE A 2005 29 FT. TWIN 375 HP GAS CRUISER. MY PROBLEM IS THAT I GET AN ESCESSIVE GASOLINE FUME ODOR COMMING FROM THE TANK VENTS. THE VENTS ARE LOCATED ON PORT AND STARBORD SIDES AT ABOUT MID COCKPIT.THE DEALER HAS INSPECTED THE BOAT SEVERAL TIMES AND FOUND NO LEAKS OF ANY KIND ANYWHERE. THE ODOR SEEMS TO COME FROM THE VENTS WHEN THERE IS A BREEZE AND GETS STRONGER AS THE BREEZE GETS STRONGER. WE THINK THE PROBLEM IS THAT THERE ARE TWO VENTS AND A SINGLE 200 GAL. FUEL TANK. WHAT I THINK HAPPENS IS THAT IN SOME CONDITIONS THE BREEZE SIPHONS FUMES FROM THE VENT ON THE WINDWARD SIDE WHILE AIR IS BEING REPLACED IN THE TANK FROM THE SECOND VENT. IN OTHER CONDITIONS THE AIR IS BEING FORCED INTO THE TANK FORCING GASOLINE FUMES OUT OF THE VENT ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE. I HAVE OWNED SEVERAL TWIN GAS BOATS AND REALIZE THAT SOME GAS ODER IS TO BE EXPECTED BUT THIS ODOR IS EXCESSIVE. ITS AS THOUGH WE ARE SITTING IN A GAS STATION. WE ALSO GET STATION WAGON EFFECT IN SOME RUNNING CONDITIONS. THE MANUF. OPERATORS MANUAL STATES THAT GAS FUMES PRESENT A DANGER OF EXPLOSION AS WELL AS A HEALTH HAZZARD. HAVE YOU HEARD OF THIS CONDITION OR DO YOU HAVE A POSSIBLI SOLUTION. THANK YOU
When I rebed a sink to the counter after prying it up, what silicon should I use? I don't think 5200 would be proper.
My 1996 3.0 Mercrusier runs great Idols fine but makes what appears to be like a exhaust leak. I have ruled out the head gasket because its fine at top speeds an idols fine. A machanic told me to replace the gasket up top an the belows I did it over the weekend but it did not fix the problem can you help me out please. Ps engine temp is fine.
Who is a good source for replacement freezer compressor and related items? Thanks Don
We just purchased a 1981 Gulfstar Sailmaster 47 (see attached) and a couple of the large salon windows have small leaks and need to be re-bedded. From your experience with this boat, can you recall re-setting those windows? They seem to be attached from the outside with #6 x 2" machine screws (about every 4"") holding on a metal rim. However, it is unclear whether the machine screws attach to (invisible) nuts or a tapped back plate. Any thoughts, memories or ideas 'how to' would be appreciated.
I have mildew on my sunbrella biminy top, I have called the company and they said try Woolite, however, it not work please help, Dave S.
I have twin volvo 5.0 engines which usally turn aprox. 4400 rpm wot. Went out and my engines would only turn 2800 rpm. The next day 2200 rpm. After changing the water seperators and fuel filters in the carburator I turned 2400 rpm. The gas I drained look good and I have new plugs, points, wires, etc. Do I have water in my carbs? Do I need to have them rebuilt or is there another solution.
What's the solution for refurbishing pitted aluminum
I am looking for some options on recarpeting my Carver. I would like to know of other flooring materials other than carpet, such as cork? What are your thoughts and suggestions. Eric
What would you recommend to keep teak on the swim platform and steps looking clean and brown, oil or varnish? I have found Cetol to be very good but have never used it in proximity to the water.
Have a 21ft bayliner trophy fishing boat-1998. Have spilled silicone adheasive on the deck and cannot remove it with anything i tried. Its been there for a while,please help.
I am needing to replace the drapes on by 89 Carver Santego 30' cruiser. The drapes are attached to a track by a small material strap and a poly glide that fits in the track. Are there better ways to attach the drapes? If not, where can I find replacement parts for the poly sliders? Eric Bartleson
Hi, I have a 9.9 Suzuki outboard which is attached to the wheel via cabels. Last week I put in neutral from either forward or reverse and heard a grinding noise. The noise doesn't happen when I put it in gear, only when I try to go in neutral. What could be the problem? thanks Sam
Hi. I own a 1975 Bertram with gas engines and a fiberglass gas tank. Am I going to have a problem with the ethanol that is now being added to the gasoline at my local marina? If so is the problem immediate or long term. Also, if i have to replace the fuel tank do I have any recourse or have any class action lawsuits been filed? I really feel like I am getting the shaft here. Thank you for any help in this matter. Charles Campbell.
4/28/06 I have a 1987 Renken 2288 Seamater. In reference to the article in BoatUS magazine of January 2006, how can I tell if it has a fiberglass reenforced gas tank? Since Renken, to my knowledge, has been out of business for some time, is there anyone I could contact that would have records to show what kind of material was used in my gas tank?
I have a 1987 40' Hunter Legend. It has a iron 6'6" keel. I use Pettit Hydrocoat 1240 Blue. Each year we lightly sand and coat the bottom and keel. Each year I am see more rust coming through paint.. What should I do.. Neil firstname.lastname@example.org
I have a 1987 40' Hunter Legend. It has a iron 6'6" keel. I use Pettit Hydrocoat 1240 Blue. Each year we lightly sand and coat the bottom and keel. Each year I am see more rust coming through paint.. What should I do.. Neil email@example.com
I have an eisenglass enclosure around my hardtop on my 2802 Bayliner Trophy. I have noticed that there is a brownish haze that is currently building up on the eisenglass (clear plastic) material in certain areas. It seems to come off with my fingernail, but that would be very time consuming - is there any cleaner / solution that will clean this off that I can use that won't harm the eisenglass? Thanks
I have owned an '88 Trojan w/270 Crusaders for 8 years. They have 1100+ gently used hours. Is it foolish to plan another Chesapeake cruise of 7-10 days from Ocean City, NJ? They start quickly, run and sound very good. What to look for in problems? Thanks for any advice.
I went to buy some matine fuel line & the date on the hose was 04. I know the hose is dated, but I don't know how long it is good for. Should I try to find some newer hose?
Have a 16' Dixie that I would like to paint. Noticed it hase what I think is lap-strakes and not a smooth hull. Will this be a problem.
Hi; I have a used Seastar hydraulic steering system I puurchased on Ebay. The steering pump has fittings that do not match up to the new hose set that I have. The hoses do fit up to the steering ram that attaches to the motor. the pump has 1/4" pipe to 1/4" tube. Do you know of a stocking Seastar dealer? Email or phone for them? Thanks, Bob
I have a 1998 Larson 254 Cabrio, we have recently been getting water into the bilge area. When we return from a weekend on the Gulf, we park boat which is on a trailer, entirely cover boat, and after a couple days I will fin water about 1 gallon in the cabin sump, and when checking in bilge I discover water ( not to level to turn on bilge pump. I checked after last trip, pulled plug and raised front of boat as high as possible to drain, a taste of water coming out was salt tasting. I do not see any leaks around engine, ie hoses & exhaust. I do not find signs of leaks on the through hull value for sea water to flush toilet. Any ideas of what else to check?
Having replaced the water temperature gauge and sender they do not seem to be calibrated. When the engine is "Warm up" the gauge reads about 235 F, but I have checked the temperature with an external probe and the temp is about normal! Can one calibrate the gauge thru the use of resistors? Thanks, Don on Majestic Dream
Fresh water plumbing. I have a 1988 Carver Mariner. The plumbing system is composed primarily of A thin poly-type tubing (not the clear reinforced plastic hosing that is popular today). QUESTION: I want to install a "T" barb near the water heater, so I can drain the tank at the end of season. Where do I find parts for this type of system and what type of adhesive (or clamps) should be used in the splicing process?
I am a new boat owner with a used 18 foot 1995 bow-rider. Unfortunately, I believe that I purchased the boat with a crack in the block that already existed and that the block was already leaking when I bought the boat in 2004. However, I took the boat out three times last season before the first freeze. At the beginning of this season, I took the boat to the shop for a tune up and to have a wakeboard tower installed. At this point, I was told that the boat had a 10-12 inch crack in the block. Although, I did not winterize the boat, I believe that the crack already existed based on my observations of the condition of the block and engine after I started the repair work. I also found that the idle cam and shaft was also missing from the carburetor. After all my repairs (I have pictures) and running it shortly, I started having more carburetor problems, so I started to rebuild the carburetor. However, I only found that the rubber on the accelerator pump had cracked so I replaced the pump, cleaned the needle, and re-assembled the carburetor. I took the boat out last Saturday and ran it for about 2.5 hours. I realized while out on the water that I was running low on fuel. I know that I had at least 7/8 of a tank of gas. Why would my boat burn up so much fuel? I realize that the carburetor might need so fine tune adjustments, but still the boat burned up about 20 gallons in two hours. I just can't imagine that a 3.0L/LX could be that inefficient. Any suggestion? I also have a question on driving control tilt and trim adjustments (I have both). I don't understand why my boat tilts to the left or right when I accelerate.
I've been going through zincs on my submerged O/B almost every month. It's a Cape Dory 25 with a Honda 5 HP w/alternator. The output wires run directly to the two marine batteries. I've also installed a SSB Marine Radio (Icom 718) with Ant. Tuner. For grounding, I used WM's copper ribbon to both scupper ball valves and sink through hull. I've wired the GFI ground directly to the ground of the 30amp receptacle but not to any through hulls. Now I'm afraid I've done something wrong and my through hulls might be eaten away much faster than I could imagine. HELP! What do I check for? What should I do? Thanks Dana Vincent
Currently the gas in Connecticut has 10% ethanol added. My question concerns winter storage: In the past I have always filled my tank approximately 90% full prior to storage. this year there has been several dock discussions regarding whether to store the boat with the fuel tank full or empty. My question is what do you recommend? Thanks,
I bought a 1987 Freedom 28 sailboat with a pressurized hot/cold water system on board last winter. Since the system was winterized, I was not able to verify operation before purchase, and was dismayed to find that there were no instructions for recommissioning the system in the boat's documentation. There appears to be a component - probably a check valve - missing from the input side of the water heater. Because of this, the system doesn't pressurize and I'm getting tired of using bottled water aboard. As near as I can tell, everything electrical works.I have cruised the websites for both the boat and water heater manufacturers, but have not been able to get any clear instructions for getting this system operational. Can you help me find this information? I would much prefer to know how and do it myself than have to rely on hiring someone to fix it for me.
I have Galley Maid heads on an offshore sportfish. When we are out past the three mile limit and opt not to use the holding tanks the heads bubble after flushing. The fact that the heads allow air or water back into the bowl worries me. This also happens if the holding tank is full. Thanks for your help.
Hello: We have a 40' Matine Trader double cabin with two heads. They're connected to a Lactra-san thence to a holding tank. They're discharge lines are thru vented loops. One head does not draw the water out quickly enough to keep the bowl from filling nearly to the top. I guess there's a partial blockage. What is the required maintenance for the vented loop? Thanx,
We have a 1986 Jefferso sundeck Trawler. The sliding cabiin port and stbd door's roller bearings are shot. The doors rollers are on the bottom of the doors. They are cast metal, measure 2" long by 1/2" wide with a 1" roller bearing. Each door has 2. We have been looking for a year with no luck for replacement roller bearings or complete unit. Where can I get what I need? V/R Bob
I have a 14' Starcraft aluminum boat which I use as a dinghy. It leaks like a sieve (prorably has to do with hauling it over beach rock daily, and the 15 horse motor that bobs around on the back as I haul it!) Since a new one would start looking as desperate as my current one within a year, I thought I might "repair" this one. Any ideas of spray stuff I can spray into the inside to seal this boat up (I'm thinking like a truck bed liner)? Since it's not worth much I don't want to sink a lot of money into it. I'm thinking some tar-like substance that hardens up. Any ideas?
Hello, I am having intermittent trouble with the power trim system. I have a mercruiser I/O. I bought the boat new in '98 and it hangs in my boatshed in Panama City Florida. It has 340 hours on it and after each foray out offshore I flush the motor with fresh water,wash down the inside/outside after scrubbing with soap and pump out the bilge. Anyway, when starting out ona trip the down function of the power trim feature does not operate. The fluid level is OK and I can hear the hydraulic pump working, but the outdrive does not move down unless I stand on it. After around 15 minutes the down feature works fine. Any ideas? Regards
Hello Tom I read your article on freeing up frozen steering. I have this problem with a boat I just bought from a friend. The boat has been sitting idle for about 5 years. The steering wheel is froze solid. I removed the large nut on the end of the cable It kind of looks like a metal gas line on a car and what appears to be another metal tube inside the outer one. By looking at it is hard for me to see how this system works. I cannot see any cable. I did disconnect the linkage on the opposite side, and the motor turns freely. I tried knocking the rod loose but it only moved about 1" and won't budge. Would it help to apply heat to the rod? Any other ideas would would be a big help. Thanks!