Posted: 29 September 2009 at 8:44pm | IP Logged

Try this link.

http://www.ebasicpower.com/

Posted: 02 October 2009 at 9:41pm | IP Logged

reman long block link

http://www.dougrussell.com/Products/index.cfm?fuseaction=Pro ducts&Category=6

Posted: 02 October 2009 at 10:53pm | IP Logged

Hey Pop-Pop! Where you been and how you doin?

Floater!

Posted: 03 October 2009 at 8:55am | IP Logged

Hey Jim

I have been around. I keep trying to log onto the chris craft boat forum but it won't let me log in. I can read what you guys are posting.

Posted: 03 October 2009 at 9:35am | IP Logged

Hey phil,

i have been having same troubles logging in. keep having to change my password.... any way hope your well. we have had a hellatious summer.

16 year old broke his leg in 3 places. new baby in july. same week as 16 year olds accident.

been bogged down trying to keep up with daily doc appointments with kids etc.

no time for boat.

bob

Posted: 03 October 2009 at 11:45am | IP Logged

Bob

I didn't get the boat in the water at all this year. Scraped 4 coats of paint of her and replaced some engine parts.

When my boys were young I went thought the broken bone thing. One good thing when they are young  they heal quick.

Posted: 04 October 2009 at 3:28pm | IP Logged

There may be something I'm missing, but wouldn't it be worth checking your local Chev dealer for a "Mr. Goodwrench" early 350 cu in longblock??  Last I looked, they were still available cheaper than quotes stated above, brand new, and delivered to a GM dealer.  In the crate, swapping the cam to the reverse grind and to the gear set-up wouldn't be too hard, along with popping in brass freeze plugs, changing intake, etc.  ??

Ed   Risa II  29 Cat

Posted: 03 December 2009 at 6:55pm | IP Logged

Hello Everyone,

I am new to the forum and Catalinas, I found a very nice 1976 Express 25 with a 307k and I was wondering if there are anything things I should look for specifically with this model. It is a fresh water boat that was always on a covered lift. The outside and inside are very clean and it looks like it was very well taken care of. I was wondering what kind of speed I should expect from a 307k, im obviously not looking for anything fast but i'm hoping it will top out atleast around 30mph.

Thanks for any input,

Andrew

Posted: 03 December 2009 at 8:03pm | IP Logged

Andrew

I have a 305k and with a clean bottom I get it up to 32mph but that is wide open which I don't like to do. I run her mostly at 3000 rpm's .

Posted: 09 January 2010 at 2:16pm | IP Logged

Agree with stephenk; assume you are speaking of the flex plate on the flywheel.  Hacking stringers and lowering an engine while using the original shaft angle wouldn't work.  Inboard installation shaft angles, to be done right, is a "feeler gauge" process on the two coupler shaft flanges to avoid all binding.  I don't think that boat is a bargain even at that price; with the possibility of weakened stringers to be rebuilt and the engine relocation expense, you would be "upside down" in my opinion.

Ed   Risa II

Posted: 09 January 2010 at 7:21pm | IP Logged

stephenk wrote: The engine was not properly installed and aligned to the strut.

Listen to yourself!

Posted: 11 January 2010 at 1:20pm | IP Logged

pop-pop did you put the carpet in the cabin or was it there from when you bought the boat.

thanks

Posted: 11 January 2010 at 3:40pm | IP Logged

pop-pop do you know where i can get the carpet at for the cabin.

Posted: 12 January 2010 at 8:30pm | IP Logged

matt

Check out this link.

http://www.boats.com/listing/gallery.jsp?entityid=107731021& amp;mid=1287&ceid=298791&galleryBack=%2Fboat-details %2FChris-craft-250-Catalina%2F107731021%3Fno%3D1200%26ro%3D3 7%26bdi%3Dtrue%26r%3D107731021%26Ntk%3DboatsEN%26uom%3D126%2 6duom%3D126%26sm%3D3%26wuom%3D126%26luom%3D126%26currencyid% 3D100%26ps%3D50%26ic%3Dtrue%26sfm%3Dfalse%26man%3DChris-Craf t%26slim%3Dquick%26entityid%3D107731021%26mid%3D1287%26rs%3D boats.com&pic=0

Posted: 17 January 2010 at 10:28am | IP Logged

And what?  That's how you do it.  The strut has to be perfectly aligned as well as the transmission output shaft to the shaft coupler.  Even if those are close in this case, the shaft is surely hitting the thru-hull because the engine was lowered.

Posted: 17 January 2010 at 12:26pm | IP Logged

stephenk

I was talking to chrissraft251.

chriscraft251 wrote: sould i pass on the boat thanks

Posted: 17 January 2010 at 5:14pm | IP Logged

How to fix?  It's a lot of work.

you have to disconnect the shaft coupler and raise the engine so that the transmission output flange mates with the shaft coupler without flexing the shaft.  You will probably find that either the front or rear engine mounts don't have enough adjustment for this meaning that you will have to rebuild the cut-outs made in the stringers or have custom mounts made.  Once it's close you can then use the adjustments on the engine mounts with a feeler guage at the flange.  Raise both the front and rear mounts by the same amount to change the engine height.  Raise or lower the front mounts only to change the angle at the shaft.  Recheck everything again with each adjustment.

Use a 2x4 between the stringer and the engine to kick it over left or right.  Move the engine from the front and rear the same amount to move it left or right.  Move the engine from the front only to change the angle at the shaft.  Recheck everything again with each adjustment.

Connect the couplers and check the angle at the strut.  There should be no deflection of the bearing top or bottom while looking from the front of the strut or the rear of the strut.  If so, raise or lower the engine until it's right.  Make sure there's enough room at the thru hull so the shaft is basically centered.  If not, you can't raise or lower the engine any more and you'll have to either replace the strut with a different one or make a custom wedge for it.

While your tooling around with this, check the shaft for scoring at the packing nut and replace the packing.  If the shaft is scored, either cut the shaft log 1/2inch shorter or get one a 1/2inch longer so the packing nut is compressed on a clean area of the shaft.  Also replace the strut bearing.  Now you have to deal with your floor issue.  If the engine is too high you will have to customize the floor to accommodate it.  You might get lucky and can get away with just a low profile flame arrestor.

Pop-pop, sorry, I misinterpreted your posting.

Posted: 18 January 2010 at 4:43pm | IP Logged

Seems that I/O's have their own set of problems.  Their big advantage - like front wheel drive cars - they are cheaper to manufacture.  Ever had a leaky bellows or water in the gear case?  I don't know why a builder like Grady would use I/O's.

Ed

Risa II   '83 Cat 292

Posted: 18 January 2010 at 6:14pm | IP Logged

As mentioned, I/O's have their own set of problems.  Not the least of which is corrosion and water intrusion to the transom.  That alone wants me to always stick with an inboard.  BTW, when you change an I/O's engine, you have the same issues if you alter the stringers or use different engine mounts.

The key to any retrofit project is to spend the time upfront to do it 100% right.  Before you can do that you have to have an appreciation for what is involved and estimate the time, parts, and custom work involved.  If the work is above the shade tree mechanic's abilities, there's no shame in paying someone else to do it.

Posted: 18 January 2010 at 9:46pm | IP Logged

I did all the work to my boat. I rebuilt the 4.3 and did the drive I went to school for I/O's not inboard's but always ready to learn.and a inboard looks simpler. im only 21 so i got a lot to learn lol. but i want a 251 bad.

Posted: 07 February 2010 at 5:31pm | IP Logged

matt

I found that my 251 can handle 3-4 fters ok. It not something I want to do for a long period of time.