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Subject Topic: Rebedding Deck Hardware
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crazycarl
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Joined: 08 October 2009
Location: Northern Ilinois
Posts: 1
Posted: 08 October 2009 at 1:04am | IP Logged Quote crazycarl

I've painted the deck of our Starwind 19 and it's almost time to reinstall the deck hardware.  I'm not a big fan of silicone caulk as it is messy and hard to remove if I decide to repaint again.  I have used gasget material in the past with much success, but the material available locally doesn't have UV protection and the outside quickly deteriorates.  I've located silicone sheet material, but it only comes in red and wouldn't look right peeking out from under the hardware.   I've been toying with the idea of using small "O" rings around each bolt instead.   "O" rings would be under the hardware and in theory, not exposed to the sun.  I have found "O" rings made of silicone, red of course, and this would help with the UV problem. 

Has anyone tried this with any success?

 

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SwampNut
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Joined: 08 February 2006
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 3843
Posted: 08 October 2009 at 10:44am | IP Logged Quote SwampNut

Silicone is a bad choice as you noted.  People really need to stop using silicone on boats.  The right choice is a sealant like 3M 4000, which is suitable for use above or below the waterline and has excellent UV protection.  Check it out on the 3M site if you want details.



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SteveR
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Joined: 09 March 2001
Location: Long Island, NY, USA
Posts: 119
Posted: 13 October 2009 at 9:03pm | IP Logged Quote SteveR

The proper bedding material is polysulfide found at any marine store.  4200 & 5200 are polysulfide adhesives that have their place but straight polysulfide is the best to use.  For larger items like the table pole receptacle it is best to use a generous bead and reinstall without tightening down.  After a day or 2 finish tighening all the way.  
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jeffnick
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Joined: 04 April 2003
Location: Spartanburg, SC USA
Posts: 513
Posted: 13 October 2009 at 9:33pm | IP Logged Quote jeffnick

Do you want it to last 5 years, or 10 years of 30 years?

I built a garage while living in Oregon in a house that set me back $6,500. A friend helped me build the garage. When I insisted on the absolute best materials for the garage he said I was crazy... I didn't believe him and went with the best.

We moved out of the house 6 months later and I revisited the place 15 years later and it had been leveled to make parking for the City Garage.

The 'lifetime' method is to overdrill the holes and fill with epoxy, then redrill to the correct size. Then bed with 5200 and snug the fittings...after a week or so when the 5200 has cured, tighten them the rest of the way.

If you're a fanatic do it the 'lifetime' way. If the area has no core it really doesn't matter. Bottom line = do it however it makes you feel good.



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rwidman
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Joined: 30 December 2002
Location: North Charleston, SC, USA
Posts: 2855
Posted: 13 October 2009 at 9:44pm | IP Logged Quote rwidman

Three people gave you the correct answer and I agree so that makes four.  Don't try to reinvent anything, the accepted way is given above.

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2000 Camano Troll - High Cotton




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ketchum kid
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Joined: 07 August 2008
Location: Ketchum, Grand Lake of the Cherokees
Posts: 110
Posted: 14 October 2009 at 9:40am | IP Logged Quote ketchum kid

Five. Good luck.

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